dabangsta

Are you sure it is a parasitic drain that killed the battery, and not just the battery is weak? I know that you see .05-.085 amps as the limit for cars drain to be an issue, unless it has sat for 2 weeks, I don't think it would kill it over night. Many group 65 batteries (guessing on the high end, since it can have a group 65 or 59, depending on push button start/intelligent access) has a reserve capacity of 150 minutes (so it can deliver 25 amps for 150 minutes before reaching 10.5 volts). which would be more than 17 days of a .15 amp draw.

Welcome! Hopefully by battery issue you mean the 3+ year old OEM battery is finally needing replaced? I am jealous, my 2019 has been a heap of expensive issues that I now have nearly as much into as if I bought a new one in 2022 instead of a used one. Live and learn I guess.

Yeah, that adding a quart after leveling it with the sight plug removed is weird. When I checked the level on mine (not an ST so different transmission, so the reason???) it was very slightly underfilled at 90,000 miles, but I could see that it was very close to spilling some out. It wasn't 1 quart over filled.

Is it detected for proximity unlock, or do you need to press a fob button to unlock or use the emergency key to get in it? If the battery is dead, you can place the key in the emergency slot in the center console (it is at the front under the coin trays) with the buttons up and the key ring to the rear, press brake and start button and see if that works.

What model and engine? If it is the 2.0 Ecoboost engine it is about 50hp down from the MDX (but more torque at a lower rpm), the 3.5 would be similar in HP but lower in torque. The 3.7 had better of both. But HP and torque are just a part of the equation. The 2.0 is more reactive to mods and tunes. It might be more of a perception difference and more responsive shifting (tried Sport mode?) that might be able to helped with a tune, instead of just adding power. I can't find the final gearing for the Edge but I don't think it is as high as the MDX. Also you might be more likely to be running premium fuel in the MDX? There is some seat of the pants differences running premium over regular.

There is a recall on the shifter bushing. If it breaks or disconnects, then the shifter is no longer connected to the transmission, and could cause what you are reporting. You should look up recalls by VIN on the Ford or NHTSA sites to see if it is outstanding or has been done. I had my 2015 Fusion done, and it broke again, and they had a revised part for it later on. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCMN-22V413-1296.pdf It is an easy fix on most vehicles, the fix and other circumstances might make it a mobile repair, I personally would verify that is what is happening to not have to pay a $180-350 diagnostic fee, and if it isn't the recall, owe that.

There are a couple of passages out of the "front" of the engine, which is on the passenger side, that coolant would weep through if it was a waterpump leak, but a full on water pump failure, like the fins are no longer there, could make it over heat (pushing lots of coolant out of the coolant bottle), but there are more likely candidates as mentioned above.

Around town there are no hills for the "test" I ran (well one, but if it wasn't for the one, I bet elevation change over 11 miles would be 30 feet). I am still trying to get the PID for brake pressure and brake light activation setup in Torque so I can log and monitor it. I had tried a mirror on a suction cup on the back of the car because I was curious about brake light activation using ACC, but that doesn't tell me when the actual brakes are applied and to what degree. Out on the highway, with actual hills and mountains, cruise can be detrimental to mileage if you are trying. Without an eco mode, it is pretty aggressive in maintaining speed up.

I normally do not have a daily driving routine. I work from home, and I rarely drive the 2019 Edge SEL FWD with ACC around town, just on journeys away from the city, vacations, etc. My son is driving my 2012 Fusion Sport AWD, and my wife was in the hospital. So that means 3 round trips daily, 11 miles each way. It is city driving, with 5 miles of it on a 45 mph parkwayesque drive (3 stop lights, 4 lanes wide mostly). I did the first 3 days driving normally (which is to say, more aggressive than most, keeping up with traffic speeds, no coasting or hypermiling), and I averaged 19.5 mpg. I then starting using the ACC. Next 3 days my average was 22.9 (it was 23.4 but had to do some aggressive maneuvering to get away from a maniac). I still went with traffic (cruise set to 56 in the 45 segments, 46 in the 40 segments), and was never the last away from a stop, usually the first. It was much less stressful that most commutes, I still would use the gas pedal to go faster as needed, I still paid attention and was an active participant in the experience, but it helped even out my driving, and limit my speeding up to get around a car, then going faster than others, so repeating that. Also auto start/stop helps if you are trying. The temps hit 105 again so it will stop less and less, and I could watch the average go down while sitting or once back underway, but once the heat hit again, it would drop .1 or .2 sitting and I would have to baby it to get them back.

I would strongly suggest looking for some winter rated tires. The Bridgestone WeatherPeak and Michelin CrossClimate2 are all year around tires that are also 3 peak rated, and do very well in the snow, with little compromise for summer (maybe a little noisier, and you won't win any races on them). I got my daughter some dedicated winter tires and it was too much hassle to get them swapped around, so we went with the WeatherPeak. She probably gets less snow, and has a FWD Fusion. I grew up driving in severe winter conditions, moved to the desert, and forgot much of my safe winter driving habits, so when I go back to snow, I really have to watch it. I did okay with AWD and all season tires, but after driving my daughters Fusion with winter tires, it was night and day difference.

The ST has the 8F57 (the 35 and 57 are torque handling numbers, I don't think I have seen cold hard facts on that, that it is *10 nm after torque multiplication from the torque converter (so 350 nm for the 8F35 and 570 nm for the 8F57). the 380 ft lb that the ST puts out is 517nm, which seems it would be low as most torque converters do 1.5-2.5 multiplication, so who knows. The 2.0 puts out 275.

That is a soft reset, and only cycles it from on to off to on. That won't remove anything.

You should do a master reset. Settings>General>Scroll to Master Reset and do that. I think that also removes FordPass access for previous people.

The front turn signal bulb is a single filament turn only bulb. There is only a side marker light. I Don't know if it matters what level headlight it has (signature lighting or not, both are available on the SEL).

I suspect that that isn't the correct lamp, or incorrect part number. You mention a 2019 SEL V6, I assume that 2019 and SEL are correct, as the V6 is no longer available. I think that the KT4Z-13405-G is the correct one...(you have a different KT4Z-13404-G part number) for the outer left with amber turn, with combo red bulb, clear lens park (dim) and turn (bright) and red lens surround is not illuminated for parking lights. Inner lamp is only backup lamp, no illuminated surround.

I would have suspected one of the only non LED bulbs, the front turn signal bulb, as the issue. The SEL doesn't have all parts of the inner and outer tail light that lights up like the higher level tail lights.

I would suspect with all the differences in the 2019+, including the EGR cooler, that it wouldn't be an easy swap. Unless Jasper specifically states that it is the new style block, it might still have the same possible outcome. I suspect that a Ford dealer can get it in within a day or 2, and at $2600 for new long block, maybe getting it and having the repair shop replace it might be more thrifty, what is their breakdown parts versus labor? Obviously there are other things that should be replaced with new versus swapping over from the existing one (like water pump), but it shouldn't be a long list (you can look at the TSB for the parts list, and the labor of 13.3 hours, so $2600 in labor at least at the dealership, https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf).

Click that right arrow at the lower right, and it shows the severe or special uses interval, and the exceptions that include PTU and rear diff. Transmission is on the main maintenance schedule at 150,000 miles.

2019 most seem to not have engine cover, but still hood blanket. Most Fords lost the engine cover that year, even without the updated engine, and it is a difficult one to get, the Lincoln one is easier (as it didn't lose it). Note that the configuration of the oil fill and dipstick changed for 2019 and previous 2.0 engine covers do not match. You can see if you have the attachment points (the ball end it snaps on to, and the threaded stem).

It is all right there in the Scheduled Maintenance section. Oil, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid. these all have a maintenance interval. Rear Axle and PTU are stated as not having a normal schedule, no maintenance unless submerged in water, severe duty, or a leak is found. Now unofficially most will not follow the normal maintenance schedule, and should follow the severe duty schedule and add the rear diff and PTU, doing fluid changes more frequently and doing them even if not a normally changed item.

Well, someone can look up by VIN the build sheet to see how it is equipped, but no part of the VIN can be decoded to show it has ACC. You can try inputting it into parts.ford.com to see if it gives you the part number you need for the correct part for having ACC, I have done that in the past to be able to get the right upgraded brake parts (larger rotors, brackets, and calipers). This is all that can be decoded via VIN: https://content.fordpro.com/content/dam/fordpro/us/en-us/pdf/fleet-vehicles/vin-lookup-and-guides/2013-vin-guide.pdf without further help. If they show the steering wheel it will have the different controls ACC vs standard.

Even adaptive cruise isn't aggressive in lowering speed if taken higher than the set speed. It also is not very aggressive at turning off when you use the gas pedal to go faster than the set speed. I had a rental car that it didn't take much to turn off. With the adaptive cruise I use cruise less for a minimum speed than I used to, but still often times that is how I use it. I guess never for 5 minutes. Eco mode in a Fusion Hybrid did help with fuel mileage but I feel it let the speed get too low, not tractor/trailer with flashing lights slow, but pretty close. 80 mph down to 55-60, where non eco mode would maintain it within 5 mph. I never felt comfortable in hilly driving with eco mode, which is where it shines for some.

Did someone mention swap coolers? I love mine. It is a bit odd to see old school next to solar panels, and behind me is the condenser for the AC. I down sized my cooler (it was a 6800 cfm 1hp single inlet) to 45 cfm 1/2 hp and it perfect, until it gets humid, then the AC comes on. But late April until mid July I bank a lot of power credits using it instead of AC. It is maintenance heavy and not sure how many more years I want to go up on the rook 4 times a year, but $300-400 saving even with solar is worth it to me.

They are saying bearing wear. I suppose it is the planetary gear bearing, same failure that the Transit Connect had? Do I roll the dice and have them dig into it and try to replace that part? Looks like $3000 in labor just to R&R it, but is $500 worth of parts plus more labor worth the gamble? "my lucky day" they have one in stock and can get to it in 2 days.

Couldn't get it in for 10 days: They said it would be 2-14 days for a diagnostic (but it was driven 10 miles last night, parked at a different place, then driven today, triggering even more FordPass Powertrain faults). The transmission shops are probably similar in price for the transmission and installation, maybe by my estimate $500 less, which is a lot, but percentage wise not enough. None of them have really dealt with the 8f35 yet, and hope it is similar enough to the 6f35...not confidence inspiring.