dabangsta

As mentioned, I would consider it actually being low oil pressure until you get to the point it might be a wiring or sender issue. I would check the oil level. If it is low in some instances it could cause a low pressure situation. I am battling this with my 2012 Fusion Sport (with the same 3.5). Mine is leaking oil from the pressure sender. At first the low oil pressure light would come on only at a specific intersection when I stopped. Now after I drive it hard for a while it will inconsistently be on when the RPMs are lower than 800 rpm (when the oil pressure really is low, but should be higher than the sensor reports as low). Once I replace the pressure sender, if it is still on I will get a mechanical gauge to test it, then...assume it is an internal issue, clogged oil pickup, bearing tolerances/wear, bad oil pump.

Welcome! I like the way that the Vignale's are equipped. While I do like our top level Titanium the Vignale takes it further it seems, at least chrome wise. If I could get a Fusion/Mondeo estate/wagon Vignale I would be happy!

Since it uses the same bulb for low and high, I don't know why they give 2 different lumen numbers. High beam just opens a shutter, I am guessing that you didn't use the resistors thinking they were for the turn signal? I would guess that there isn't enough resistance on the high beam side if it goes directly to a small motor or whatever to move the shutter. With single bulb with single filament, I don't know what sort of voodoo they do in the housing. Since the same bulb is always on do they power it always somehow, is there a diode and it is fed by both low and high? With the extra leads out for the headlight, you probably need the resistors.

That is pretty much what I expected, but didn't know for sure. I do still suggest using the TR code on the label.

The 2.0 gets the 6F35, not sure which transmission the 2.7 or 3.5 get, I don't know enough about them and the owners manual is not specific enough (can't flat tow the 6F35, can the 6F50/55).

Look on your Vehicle Certification Label (in the drivers door sill). TR of 6 is 6F35 TR of C is 6F55 TR of J is 6F50

From the 2008 Ford Workshop Manual for 2008 Edge:

Then someone has bypassed that part of the passive anti-theft. The PATS signal is needed for the ground signal to the starter relay, otherwise it shouldn't crank. This is what should happen:

Glad they took care of it. It gets crazy annoying watching them attempt to correct every start up. I put mine in "service position" (swept up and then lifted on the glass) on my 2019 for its first serious wash, and it did self adjust the first start up, but that is it, so that is nice. They do work differently than my 2017 Escape did.

I think that AWD got the larger rotor. I can't find the official Ford tech specs for a 2017 but for 2019 FWD was 315mm, and AWD was 345mm rotors (and ST having 2 different style discs, and larger rear discs).

I would deal with this when I would lift the wipers off the windshield of my 2017 Escape when washing it (can't do that with the Edge, they don't clear the back of the hood), and sometimes it would take 10 starts for them to stop adjusting. Same if they remove them to swap out the battery (you can remove the cowl do it, but then more often than not this happens). The process is to have the wiper arms off the shafts, turn on the wipers and let the shafts cycle a few times then shut them off, then put the arms back on where they should be in resting position. So yes, it is sorta a reset of the motor.

Seems more like condensation than a full on water/coolant leak into the crank case. Do you live in a humid climate, do lots of cold starts, and possible not get it up to temp and keep it up to temp for your drives? I would get water emulsion on the oil fill cap on a few of my cars in the colder but not frozen parts of the year.

I am pretty sure that if it was an anti-theft/PATS/security issue that it wouldn't even crank, and when they pulled codes they would have gotten a security related one. If the code reader didn't complain about not able to access the PCM, then it likely has power. With no key in, anti-theft should blink every 2 seconds. With key just turned to Run (before attempting to start), it should stay solidly lit for 3 seconds, then shut off. If it remains on, or blinks rapidly, then there is a PATS/SecuriLock issue. The CEL/Check Engine Light/Service Engine Soon should be on solid when key is turned to on, and should remain lit while cranking, and extinguish once it is running. If it blinks or remains on after running...well, you aren't getting that far.

How many miles are on it? Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key to Run before attempting to start? In my experience with higher mileage EFI cars fuel pump has been to most common cause of this. My Grand Marquis gave me clues like longer to crank before starting, and not starting unless being jumped by an other vehicle or a jump box, but I kept driving it, and eventually it left me stranded. I got 199,000 miles out of that fuel pump, I wanted to get 200k but it decided otherwise. I only got 120,000 out of the fuel pump in my 1989 Cougar.

Picking what tools, spares, and handy items I want to keep under the cargo floor, around the spare tire. In my 2017 Escape it was pretty shallow, so I had to split up tool kits usually. The Edge is much deeper, so I could put stuff back in their blow molded cases. But I fired up the CAD program, and the 3D printer, and started making holders for things. Keep stuff together, and not rattle. I like this extending lug wrench, and I like having the most commonly needed ones, even though for my vehicle, I only need one. The 3 spare lug nuts (for $1 more the seller had a 23 pack for Jeeps...3 extra for the spare mount). I tried a surround style holder, but found I could easily replicate the M14x1.5 threads with my printer: Some more of the stuff I am making holders for. The flashlight is nice because we all know that batteries in a device frequently leak and kill the device. Once I get everything in a place, I will post it. I don't really consider this emergency stuff, but when I go places I always get tapped to fix stuff, and I hate dealing with other peoples tools (or lack of), but rope, tie downs, zip ties, rain ponchos, gloves, etc are nice and handy sometimes.

No TSB, it is an SSM. I don't know if this covers the failure you are reporting or not. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10198658-0001.pdf Is more 2019+ related I guess, and a possible fault code: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10201053-0001.pdf

Have you tried a soft reset? Soft reset I think is FWD Seek (>>) button held and power button held for 5 seconds until the screen blacks out, then release. Since all my time in SYNC is with Android Auto, I have never really tried the SYNC 3 voice commands. I did with my 2017 Escape that had the same version (up to 3.0) and I could get simple things like "Bluetooth Audio" to work, but never really did much else. If I would have played more music from a thumb drive I would have used it more, and I might with my Edge.

I hate(d) the capped lug nuts. I bought some fairly cheap solid metal chromed ones that are bulge acorn and replaced them all. They have been on there for 200 miles, checked twice and none have been "loose", I don't think I need to get the super wide bulge ones, I removed some and checked and they seem to seat just fine. Might be tougher if I was starting with a loose wheel and putting the first one on. Only a couple could I get the OEM lug wrench on more than 1/4 of the way on, I had to take my time and wiggle it on to get enough bite to get them off, and it only has 1000 miles on the second set of tires.

My 2019 SEL will lock or unlock if I have the fob with me and I touch the top (lock), or put my hand behind the handle (unlock) on the rear doors. Must have been deleted for...2022?

They look significantly different I think a visual check might help. The -D revision seems to be for older non turbo cars (it superscedes a 2009 part number) as well as more recent 2.5 gas, 2.0/2.5 hybrids, and the 2.7 in cars. I also don't think that TSB covers the Edge with the 2.0, just the Edge with the 3.5 (and that AT4Z-9E926-B TB that is $45).

I'll top off the fluid and watch it and see if I have this going on. Seems likely on this thread, but I would've thought if there was a coolant leak, my level would be a lot lower? The "coolant intrusion" issue generally only leaks coolant into the cylinders, and wouldn't show up as coolant in the oil. Did the spark plug from 2 look cleaner than the others? I still wouldn't associate your symptoms with the coolant leaking into the cylinders, 1 inch of coolant in the reservoir is probably close to a quart if it anything like my 2017 Escape (which I added maybe a pint to twice in 90k miles, it had the 1.5 which is even more likely to have issues). I am wondering what the dealer checked other than trying to duplicate the miss. They should have done the coolant combustion/pressure check which would tell you a lot.

Remote start from the fob is different than remote start from the FordPass app. My last 2 cars had FordPass but no remote start from the fob. Looks like a module needs upgraded in addition, there is a 2015+ thread here on how someone did it.

There are also clear options. I found some 2.75 (70mm) wide stuff that cover the horizontal sill and .5 inches down the vertical. I am not sure how well it will work as I haven't gotten it in yet. I also ordered some carbon fiber look cheapo stuff, I think it would look okay on any color, mine is Magnetic so probably not stand out as much as on white. I wish they didn't call the plastic part a scuff panel and the vertical part a kick panel, because everyone else in my household scuffs the heck out of them, I am more worried about how crappy those will look in the near future than the painted sill.

No hitch from the factory means no factory tow package means no trailer sway control means 2,000 pounds towing which is not enough for that trailer you list. In the message center (the four way button with OK on the left of the steering wheel), if you go to Settings>Driver Assist, Trailer Sway Control would be listed if it is available.

4300k would be warmer, closer to yellow, than 6500k Many find that 6500k is bluish, but the higher the k the bluer, like 9000k