dabangsta

I was curious as to not working under 12 mph, as I frequently (following the 14 warnings in the owners manual) use it in stop and go freeway traffic and around town traffic. I almost thought I was tempting fate but the owners manual makes it sound like it is stop-go-stop capable and it is. I am going to just have my wife follow me with my car with a dash cam and check out the video later. I find the owners manuals are frequently not updated correctly to changes in vehicles, even by the 3rd or 4th "printing" downloading the PDFs. My 2017 Escape they didn't add the halogen projector bulb, so many people are confused and get the wrong one.

The 2014 Flex had 7hp and 4lb feet of torque more than the 2018 Edge, but the Flex weights 500-600 pounds more. I thought that the 2.0 would get me better mileage than the 3.5, however compared to my 2012 Fusion with the 3.5, they are very similar, however I tend to drive my Edge on cruise and stay with traffic and my Fusion I tend to be more aggressive in breaking out of packs of cars. I can get 32 mpg consistent in the 2.0 Edge, but one stomp into turbo territory and I am down to 28 mpg average over the entire tank. If I behave myself mostly in my Fusion 3.5 I get around 28, and if I stomp it a few times down to 26. It is AWD and higher mileage, and not an SUV, so not apples-apples comparison though.

Well, I decided to look into this more as others haven't reported it. Looks like I am going to the dealer to get a replacement hood bumper and striker bumper. The striker bumper doesn't stay in place. I found it laying in the plastic tray it contacts when it place. The passenger side does have a bumper/stop at least

I don't know what section this best fits in, but since I am curious about the brake lights (and I guess when it uses brakes)... I have been trying out the adaptive cruise more and more, to be comfortable with it in long distance freeway drives, stop and go freeway traffic, and to some extent, stop and go city driving. It does make some of that travel less stressful but sometime more stressful, more attention needed. 2019 SEL adaptive cruise and lane centering. When slight deceleration, probably no brake lights on? (coming up on a vehicle going 2-3 mph slower) When aggressive deceleration, brake lights on? (car comes into lane in front of me going 10 mph slower and in my range) When coming to a stop, brake lights on? (stopping at a light following someone) I am curious because in some emergency stop freeway action (accident and car along road, bring traffic to a stand still) yesterday, the car behind me really kept getting super close. No matter if creeping then stopping or 0-65-0 fast stop. I did let the adaptive cruise warn me of impending collision once (I was on the brake pedal once it happened I went from 1 bar of distance to 2 so it had more time to react), but even without that the driver behind me nearly collided with me 4 or 5 times. I want to follow someone driving it in these situations, but I really am having a hard time explaining what I want them to do, and be comfortable doing it.

One of the things I looked out for on my 2019/2020 quest to get an Edge. The one I got, that is out of powertrain warranty, had the issue already and the programming and cooler replacement. Having a 2017 Escape with the 1.5 and waiting for the coolant intrusion issue was not much fun. No sense it would happen, and at 96,000 miles hadn't happened yet.

Subjectively, quantifiably, or what best? Best now or best when it was released? I thought a 2020 was best for me. 2.0 without the coolant intrusion issue (fingers crossed), 8 speed transmission, LED headlights (but they are so bad), SYNC 3 (I don't like SYNC 2 without Android Auto, don't like SYNC 4 and portrait style display and no EACT hard buttons), AWD disconnect (but I ended up getting FWD).

What is used as the DRL differs depending on what type of headlight (halogen or HID) you have. If you have halogen then it is the low beam, if you have HID it is the dedicated H15 bulb.

The coolant intrusion issue was supposedly fixed for the 2019 model year for the Edge. I think most of the issues with the transmission are related to the 6F35 (harsh shifting, flex plate breaking) which was last used in 2018 in the Edge. While the 2019+ engine does have some new things (the EGR cooler), the 8 speed transmission has been around since 2019 (in the Edge, since 2017 in some other vehicles) and I haven't seen any trends of high failure rates or issues. I personally bought a 2019 at the end of its powertain warranty and felt good not opting for the extended warranty that was over 10% of the purchase price. It already suffered the EGR cooler failure, the PCM update done and the cooler replaced.

Tirerack shows exactly 1 275/55R18 tire (it is a sport truck all-season). being .3 inches taller and 1.2 inches wider, you can visualize having the tire .6 inches further out and closer to the inside, turn the wheel full lock and see. I personally have not tried putting on a wider and slightly taller tire on an Edge. My 2012 Fusion is very close on width when I try to use wider rims with more backspacing, but if I was to just do tires 1.2 inches wider seems like it would fit (I used foam board attached to the tires and turned the steering full both ways, and tried compressing the suspension).

Which display type do you have? Dual pod tach on left, speedometer on right, and multifuction display in the middle, or speedometer center? If base (tach and speedo) then main menu>information>Coolant Temperature If single speedo, the coolant temperature is part of the tach/fuel/temp display (main menu>display mode>up and down to tach/fuel/temp) I also use Torque app with my phone and an OBD-II adapter, I setup sets of gauges, I haven't used Forscan light or Forscan on my laptop for things like this so don't know the best way to monitor it using it.

In my 2017 Escape, I let the battery get down to a little over 200 CCA (it was a 760 CCA battery) before I replaced it (1.5 GTDI and it cranked just fine), and I tried the "let it sit for 8 hours" a few nights, and it didn't reset. Until I manually reset the BMS (using the flash to pass 5 times and brakes 3 times) Auto Start/Stop was disabled still. I also think that the radio would turn off if the engine wasn't running to save the battery (which is was doing before battery replacement, and only reason I replaced it), and I think that it shut off remote (via FordPass, not key fob) access and still went into deep sleep.

Having a semi related PTU is a similar vehicle (2012 Fusion Sport AWD 3.5 with an awf21 transmission), with no drain plug, and having that thick viscous goop forced out the vent, I wish it wasn't at 110,000 miles that I got it, and could have gotten to it sooner. I filled and removed as much "fluid" as I could a few times (no drain, so sucking out the nasty stuff), it has never been noisy that I can tell, and now that it mostly has fresh gear lube filled to where it should be, it hasn't been messy again. This is what I found after parking on the same place a few nights in a row: This is the best view I could get of the top of the transmission at the vent, a puddle of it:

I assume that where you live has an environment that might cause more corrosion than what the person in Florida is used to? I get parts from people and I live in the desert southwest and I consider them trash, but are sold as "light corrosion" or "surface rust" from back east. I might just be they are not used to cleaning up the tire bead area and the wheel mating surface or rotor hub and applying anti-seize to the faces (not the lugs). Probably nothing specific to the wheel, I am sure that the same surface treatment is found on all aluminum wheels, and they touch dissimilar metal on the rotor hats.

Might not even be mechanical, could be water intrusion into the connector to the rack, however that will usually throw a message on the dash. If the power assist is out, it is still driveable, but pretty hard to turn, especially when stationary.

While not exactly what you are after (brighter), this color change post has some pretty good details, and talks about if you want to remove and replace the soldered on yellow LEDs.

That is even weirder to me on a vehicle with EPAS. My older hydraulic system cars could be stiff and noisy when really cold, but not driven an EPAS vehicle in the cold, but I wouldn't expect an electric motor to suffer like a fluid pump.

I only drove a couple Edges with that style gauge, and I thought they had silver faces and dark numbers that might have been green backlit when the headlights are on? But must always be backlit and the gauge background can also be black it seems.

Are you talking about the illumination/backlight for the gauges, the needles, any of the warning or informational indicators (like low on fuel, cruise on), or the information center or small message center (depending on how equipped)? Feel lucky that they are a bulb and overlay and not an LCD. This is my first vehicle without aftermarket tint added, and 75% of the time I can't see the 2 info screens on my 2019 due to glare during the day.

I don't have access to or have driven a wide range of modern vehicles, and the fact that the visual part of the EATC in my 2019 is displayed in the SYNC 3 screen, I was a bit worried. But as long as CarPlay and Android Auto work, I don't care if it is a dumb terminal. Don't care about the built in navigation, and once updated to 3.4 it is responsive enough. It seems better than the Hyundai Tucson I drove a couple thousand miles, the Mazda 3, and a Rogue, but those are all either on par or lower end than my SEL. I don't like the 2020+ Explorer or 2022+ Edge portrait style screen with no physical controls (or very few).

Maybe it is the way the 2019+ hood is very visible from the drivers seat, but with a bit of side wind, the hood really shimmies and shakes on the interstate, and on rougher roads. It was bought used, and it shows some signs of abuse, but it doesn't look like the hood has been removed (the EGR cooler work doesn't seem to require it). While the 2015-2018 hood is similar, I don't recall seeing it as prominently when driving them. The one 2014 had a flat hood.

FMVSS 135 is for service brakes and parking brakes for light duty passenger vehicles under 3500kg. Yes, you need to have mechanical park brakes that meet certain requirements for weight, slope, surface friction, etc. I don't think that makes this an automatic inclusion for a recall, probably mostly because there is a fault displayed so you don't think you are secured by it?

As mentioned, I would consider it actually being low oil pressure until you get to the point it might be a wiring or sender issue. I would check the oil level. If it is low in some instances it could cause a low pressure situation. I am battling this with my 2012 Fusion Sport (with the same 3.5). Mine is leaking oil from the pressure sender. At first the low oil pressure light would come on only at a specific intersection when I stopped. Now after I drive it hard for a while it will inconsistently be on when the RPMs are lower than 800 rpm (when the oil pressure really is low, but should be higher than the sensor reports as low). Once I replace the pressure sender, if it is still on I will get a mechanical gauge to test it, then...assume it is an internal issue, clogged oil pickup, bearing tolerances/wear, bad oil pump.

Welcome! I like the way that the Vignale's are equipped. While I do like our top level Titanium the Vignale takes it further it seems, at least chrome wise. If I could get a Fusion/Mondeo estate/wagon Vignale I would be happy!

Since it uses the same bulb for low and high, I don't know why they give 2 different lumen numbers. High beam just opens a shutter, I am guessing that you didn't use the resistors thinking they were for the turn signal? I would guess that there isn't enough resistance on the high beam side if it goes directly to a small motor or whatever to move the shutter. With single bulb with single filament, I don't know what sort of voodoo they do in the housing. Since the same bulb is always on do they power it always somehow, is there a diode and it is fed by both low and high? With the extra leads out for the headlight, you probably need the resistors.

That is pretty much what I expected, but didn't know for sure. I do still suggest using the TR code on the label.