dabangsta

Titanium came with either standard Halogen low and high beams (low is a projector style lens, high beam is an open reflector style) or HID (which uses the same bulb for low and high beam, using the projector lens, and a gate that opens or closes to block light). If you replaced a bulb, the inner one (closest to the grille), and it was an H15, that is the DRL only bulb for an HID headlight, and not the "main bulb". Each side has its own fuse, so it isn't a common fuse issue. It isn't unheard of for bulbs to burn out at the same time, they are generally on the same exact amount of time.

One possible issue it might be is the so called "coolant intrusion" issue. You don't mention your coolant level going down or needing to add some or frequently, but it is possible that is the issue, or seeing white "smoke" (actually steam) from the tailpipes. The spark plug from that cylinder would have looked different, probably lacking carbon or maybe orange/yellow tinged from the coolant. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf

Since what you call SYNC 2 they call MyFord Touch, and they did versions from 1.x to 3.10, it is an okay versioning method. Ford US no longer seems to have this information, but it can be found here: https://www.ford.co.za/support/how-tos/sync/sync-with-myford-touch/check-the-sync-with-myford-touch-software-version It is an SD card, and if you go to the site and look at the documentation you need version 3.5.1 or newer to use A15/B15 (which is the 2024 maps and last one they will be releasing). https://ford.navigation.com/product/Catalog/Catalog_Ford_Edge_2011/U-S-AND-CANADA-SYNC-2-NAVIGATION-SYSTEM-MAP-UPDATE-VERSION-A15/sku/GM5T-19H449-AJ/en_US/FordNA/USD has a link to checking and what version you need. They can be had from other sources for much less, but I am not sure if they are legitimate, copies, or scams.

If you think it is Lane Keeping (probably not, but the icon that changes orange when it alerts is the smaller car at the bottom) press the purple button on the end of the turn signal stalk. If you think it is Lane Centering (most likely, if yours is equipped), then on the left steering wheel control, there is a button with a steering wheel on it. Pressing it to turn it off will make the steering wheel go away in the instrument cluster and will show the vehicle instead.

That seems like it would be the Lane Centering and not seeing one or more markings on the road. The "orange round symbol" is the steering wheel icon that shows that Lane Centering is enabled. It turning Orange means it can't sense a line. You can turn it off like I mentioned to see if that stops the ding, but it will not longer steer for you when it can.

What is triggering the alert? Is it Adaptive Cruise and Lane Centering and not seeing a line (also should see that in the dash one side goes orange)? I can't think of any other times there are alerts due to cruise being used. You can turn off Lane Centering by pressing the button on the left side of the steering wheel with the steering wheel to turn it off. I turn it off when I use Stop and Go Adaptive Cruise around town, as each intersection I get the alert since the lines are not continuous. I alternated using it and not using it on my last 800 mile round trip drive, and I find that Lane Centering does help a bit with fatigue. About 40 miles of my drive has very spotty lines so I shut it off then as well, and don't always remember to turn it back on.

Yes, the 17 inch spare only fits over the FWD sized front rotor. If you have AWD or an ST (which other than early Sports, only AWD, but have different brake setups) you need the 18 inch spare wheel and tire. The 18 inch spare tire is taller since it is the same width and aspect ratio as the 17 incher, on a larger diameter wheel. Side by side comparison:

All four handles on your 2019 have sensors for touch lock/unlock, it should work from any door. It should also sense it at the liftgate and allow you to use the button to open it without unlocking the entire vehicle.

Personally, if it was me, I would just buy some cheaper aftermarket keys (if you have 2 already), and add a couple, and shelve the bad ones. I also have people that are abusive with keys; lotion, hand sanitizer, and sweat are bad on them, as is dropping them, closing them in doors, swinging them attached to lanyards, etc. I always get silicone covers for them. Also handy to color code cars or people when you have 4 Fords with similar keys and 4 drivers. I am also willing to try things out and combine parts to get things working. Part of my current key setup for my 2012 Fusion with the IKT: The flip key is actually a Volkswagen shell, with generic internals programmed for Ford. It had the wrong security chip in it, so I got my own for $1.50 from China and made it work. I like the simple key and separate fob for my back pack, as an emergency spare, but I find I go back to it a lot, as it is what many of my earlier Fords had, and feels comfortable.

If you have the IKT (key head is the remote, key blade is always out, key start vehicle), the OEM one is sonic welded on the side with the electronics and blade, only the back is easy to remove to change the battery. I tried to get one apart for my 2012 Fusion and it wasn't easy, and the RFID chip got damaged. I grabbed a few from the junk yard to test it on before I tried my own. I decided I would just add a couple more keys. The aftermarket shells are mostly made for the aftermarket circuit board, but you can destructively disassemble them if you are careful. Aftermarket key and shell, that irregular shaped rectangle is the PATS security chip: This was an OEM key that I took the board out of, and was going to reuse the PATS chip, but it doesn't work like a normal RFID chip, or it needs an antenna, or something, but it was pocketed at the junk yard to test on. This shows the top snapped down over the middle of an OEM one, but I am pretty sure it is glued or sonic welded, I had to use a dremel to get them apart:

Since mine is a daily driver, I skipped the slotted and drilled rotors, but I did do the Power Stop coated rotors with ceramic pads. I was tempted to since the $110 rebate made them well under $300 for all corners, but I would probably be doing them every 18 months, which is not something I want to do. I put the Power Stop Z23 kit (slotted rotors, carbon fiber-ceramic pads) on my 2012 Fusion and I wear pads out every 30k miles, which was fine when it was my beat around weekend car, but now it is a daily driver, so next set won't be these again. Mine get noisy when others drive the vehicle for a few hundred miles. A few hard stops (which are my norm) and they stop the slight chatter and groan. That is were the slots come in (like a cheese grater heh).

What year, and depending on the year, what type of key/entry, and does it have remote start? There are every thing from the IKT (physical key with remote features on the head) to the latest Intelligent Access fob that uses proximity and push button start. Again, without knowing any other details, would be a lot of guessing. Could be as simple as the remote need a battery (not all key types need the battery for it to start normally), or more involved.

The passive anti-theft SecuriLock key, the chip in the key it needs to see to start. When I installed remote starts on my older Ford and Lincolns (but not too old), I would buy a bypass module that would look like a key when remote starting, and allow it to start. I think you can add them to that (it just needs an enable during start) but I wouldn't install something like that in 2024. I wouldn't install that in 1998 on my 1997 Cougar (which didn't have a chipped key).

Does it support the RFID/smart key? I don't see a bypass module for that, so that would need to be added. For $120-200 you can get an MPC or Start-X kit that is easier to install (T harness, probably no cutting or tapping), uses the OEM fob, and supports the smart key (as long as you have 2 existing keys to program it with).

That was one obstacle I wasn't willing to confront going to the ST calipers. Since they are larger pistons, I could see there being more required changes. There are different part numbers for the brake boosters FWD vs AWD, so there might be more to what I did than I expected. I couldn't find a Ford parts master cylinder part number for my FWD small rotor vehicle, just for the ST. I also have let the Adaptive Cruise do it's thing in stop and go traffic, as well as interstate 70-30 mph traffic flow, and it does fine, whoa'ed down as expected in all situations.

I got the chance to do some heavy braking with it, and no fade or chattering at all. Compared to the worn stuff, I am sure just being new is most of that, but still I think a worthwhile small upgrade, staying with stock available stuff. The wear pattern on the discs looks good (under the coating there is the crosshatching, and only in small section is it wearing beyond the cross hatch so far, and one small section that still has some of the coating. Next up, painting the calipers red, as the wheels are open enough to make it worth it. Maybe some other color, as they are easier to keep clean painted versus raw. And as all my vehicles, the passenger side were dirtier, since there is much more debris on the road on that side (same with inside of the rim, and chips in paint, etc).

Got the larger (18) spare. I was searching for an aluminum one, but apparently sellers think they are worth $300+. Also just trying to find one for an Edge they were more expensive, and/or the seller was vague on if it would include the tire or not (most had similar text about "tire not included (with full sized tire)") so I didn't want to chance that. Scored one out of an MKX (2017), with the 4 holes in it. Since the tire has the same aspect ratio as the 17, it is taller. The tire is more square (I am used to the rounded profile tread surface). The wheel had never been mounted, and the tire never driven on. I was worried that maybe the surround was different, and it wouldn't fit, but it fits just about as well as the smaller one, it isn't easy to get it out as the back is under the plastic trim, so you need to get the front up and lifted up. Different in diameter: In place, under the cargo floor, with all my accumulated emergency, spare, and handy to have stuff.

The ST caliper brackets are hard(er) to find except at the dealer. I Priced it all out and I just wasn't sold on the cost vs gain. Just the standard ST vs the Performance Brake package brakes. I haven't tried, but I don't see why you couldn't do that on a 2018, the ST front caliper, rotors, or even the rear larger and vented rotors and calipers. The front ST calipers have 4mm larger pistons (x2 for each caliper), I doubt it is enough to require any other changes like master cylinder with more capacity, but I don't know. The rotors I got are inverted hat rotors like the standard ST brakes have, and the Performance Package ones are conventional (like my smaller original rotors). I used the tech specs document, VINs for AWD, ST, ST w/perf brakes I found on vehicles for sale, and parts.ford.com to come up with my plan and parts list (things like the same caliper and pads for both sized rotors, for example). I couldn't find a good tech spec document for 2018 (only found 2015, with less info than 2019). 2019 Edge Tech Specs.pdf

Are we talking about an iPhone or an Edge? It charges at a much higher rate than 12.8v, and will be 14.xxv until any little load is put on it. 80% of an AGM battery is 12.25v

They are much better than the partially worn 96,000 miles ones that they replaced. The little shimmy I was getting before is gone. The slight noise is gone. I haven't really had a chance to emergency type stop test them. I did some moderate braking and sitting in park to not leave hot spots on the rotors, and I tested adaptive cruise but not stop and go cruise. I feel that they are better than the smaller ones. I don't like in a mountainous region but that is where the original ones were taxed. 1 fairly heavy braking session caused them to violently shake next time they got used. I learned from my mistake and use Sport mode and more gap, and stopped using adaptive cruise, as it really does heavy braking when needed. If I was really going for improved brakes for heavier use situations, and not for daily driving with occasional heavy braking, if it wasn't my wife's daily driver, but my daily or weekend driver, I would have done ST calipers and slotted and drilled rotors and pads that need warmed up to work. But I get about 40,000 miles out of pads on those, and after 60k the rotors need replaced. Averaging 25,000 miles a year on the daily driver I don't want to do brakes every 1.5 years. Well worth the update with a normal brake change. Could the fronts have gone another 60k miles? Yes! They were starting to fade as mentioned, and not doing well with excessive braking (which my other vehicle with more aggressive setup handles just fine). I don't think it was the rears only causing the issues. I wouldn't take 20k brakes off and do this.

Any other indicators of a weak battery? If the chime is no longer coming from the sound system but from the instrument cluster that sometimes can be the first indicator of a battery issue. I would get that, then I would get no auto start/stop, and the radio turning off with battery saver message trying to sit and listen to the radio with the engine off.

Larger front brake rotor swap (and rear brake refresh), own thread in Brakes. Ordered parts to make up for some of the decontenting, trying to fix my fluttering hood, and a fitted micro fiber center console cover...because it is frequently too hot, to slick, and so tall I can't not use it. I wish I had a plan to get rid of all that piano black trim in the center console, because it blinds me every day. I can't use the pano roof because of it.

I forgot to wait for the 18 inch spare to arrive, but if I have a flat on the front the next 2 days, I will put the spare on the back (which I would likely do with a FWD vehicle anyways). Work is done, 5 hours, because I have no power tools, no lift, and ADHD so I scrubbed and details the back of the rims, the suspension, the brakes, the chassis, etc. It was the little things that kicked my butt. Replacing the rear caliper boots and slides, with the lower having the hard plastic, was a PITA. I didn't pay enough attention to the FWD being rear vented, and AWD being front vented. I didn't change the brake backing pad. The magic that makes it happen, left is the FWD caliper bracket, right is the AWD bracket: The different rotors: There was way more rust than I am used to, with a CA and AZ car. but still pretty easy to work on. The money shot: No chance the 17 inch spare will fit The real reason I dug into the brakes. Rear had 2-3mm left. It was starting to shake on normal braking, not just emergency or heavy braking coming down a mountain pass. Fronts has a ton of life left, but I couldn't see just doing the rear, and I wanted the larger brakes So far just drove it enough to sorta bed in the brakes. These are already burnt in (they smelled like I rode them down a mountain pass, still in the box), I didn't do any emergency braking, I did test out adaptive cruise but not the stop part of it. Just staring to wear through the coating A tool I used on a 2000 Ford Expedition, where the rotor hat is the same exact size as the hub, and the rust weld themselves together. Why beat the crap out of something when you can use leverage. This temporary tool had been used on quite a few rusted on rotors and works like a champ. As a temporary one use tool I didn't do enough to it, I need to get rid of the first 3 or 4 rows of threads because the end gets boogered up, but easy enough to clean up.

Most 18 inch wheels should fit fine, performance brakes or not (they are not any larger in diameter, but both ST calipers are different than other models). Someone posted a 17 18 inch temporary spare fitting their ST, however they are usually much narrower than a road wheel. You should trial fit them on the front watching for brake caliper to rim interference, as I personally have not tried this combo, hopefully someone else will chime in. Tirerack has winter tire and wheel packages, they say that 18 inch wheels and tires should fit. I personally would be on the lookout for some OEM take offs from any 2015+ Edge (or 2013+ Fusion, 2013+ Escape, but they can be narrower, which can be a bonus for winter tires.) Taller tires (on smaller rims) are a bonus when it comes to hidden pot holes and curbs in the snow.

So this will finally happen! I am still waiting for the front caliper brackets to match the larger rotors, but Saturday is the day I hope! These front rotors are beefy. It is a daily driver for my wife, and it also gets about 20,000 miles a year, so I didn't go with drilled and slotted, or aggressive pads. I do drive it from time to time so I will appreciate the larger front brakes I hope. I don't really need the coated rotors either, I live in the desert and rust is not really an issue, but for the cost difference, I went with them. I do have pretty good luck with Power Stop brake parts, so I hope that continues. $453 after shipping, $388 after $65 rebate. It is actually cheaper than the above screen shot since they have the same components in a kit, and I added slide pins and boots, and still cheaper. Shipping was $53 because it came from 2 different places, that 5% off discount of $20 didn't cover the shipping like it usually does. Still $100 cheaper than I can get it locally, with the $35 in shipping for the rotors (the shipping for the brackets is $15). The 2 sizes of Hex key/sockets that no set ever has? 7mm and 11mm, so got those: The FedEx guy hates me, 160 pounds of boxes! Why 160 pounds? Well, doing the brakes on my daughters 2015 Fusion as well, at 105,000 miles the rear pads are at 2mm, fronts have enough, but she does a lot of mountain pass driving and cooks them. A little meat on the pads will help with that a bit. I also had to do the normal RockAuto shuffle of adding and removing stuff to get the shipping costs down. It was actually cheaper to order the transmission fluid and air and cabin filters, it knocked $45 off the cost of shipping (adding $38 in parts that will be used, not just tossed in randomly). So her brakes all around will be $200 after rebate. She got quoted $550 for the rear only.