dabangsta

The OEM ones are a weird shape that only take up a slot on the outer edge. Probably cost prohibitive and some parts like the cover are on back order, to replace them with OEM fog lights ($105 each), the mounts ($140 each), and the cover ($170 each). They are pretty effective, they seem to fill a lot of the area that the weird OEM LED headlights leave shadows.

I let mine close on my arm, and it was pretty aggressively still trying to close, when the dog triggered it to close I pulled a cooler in the way so the kennel door wouldn't hit the glass. There are ways to get rid of the honk when running and key is no longer in the cabin, it requires some advanced stuff like an OBD-II adapter, a laptop, and a program called ForScan. I think a lot of people that do delivery like to disable it. For most it is a good thing, my wife closed the pano roof the other night and it honked at her when she tried to lock it because she left it on but not running.

It honks so you can't lock the keys in the car. You can still lock them in if you want using the keypad on the door. That honk when the key is the cabin negates the likelyhood of it locking you out. I haven't tried a key in the cargo area, just the passenger area. I have had a few close calls with the Hands Free Liftgate, I have little toy dogs and when trying to get them into their kennel in the cargo area they run under the bumper and close it. Worst part about that is the kennel door swings out and could contact the rear window as it is closing. It has opened while washing it also. Hands free is gimmicky, but now that I have it and use it, it is handy and I don't have to put down what I am carrying, or open it with the fob before I get there.

What year and model and options? I guess most importantly does it have auto dimmer rear view mirror. On my 2019 SEL with auto dimming mirror I am using this connector. There are a number of posts that show the wiring/pins for ground and switched power. I am going a DIY route with pins pushed in the back (work well on another car), there are also premade adapters that go inline and have a 12v->5v adapter as part of it.

Welcome! As a few months owner of a 2019 SEL (with additions of Group 201a with premium audio, dual message displays in cluster, heated front seats, LED Signature lighting...and Co-Pilot360 Assist+ with adaptive cruise,...and convenience package with remote start), I understand. I came from a low optioned 2017 Escape, and found a well equipped SEL to replace it. It took some time to get used to the Adaptive Cruise. First thing I did was update SYNC 3 to 3.4 (the newer darker UI), make sure I had the door code. I still have to learn why frequently it starts up with drivers seat heat on (it was nice for about 2 weeks, but it is already 85 degrees where I live). Know what standard features you have, what options, and read up in the owners manual, I get the PDF and do it on my computer. I also had to ask about a few things here, lots of experience and access to advanced documents by quite a few here.

As part of the paid diagnostic did they provide any codes it set? I think it is a common failure, rarely an actual wiring issue, most of the time the wiring harness and the connector on the parking brake motor corrode. There is nothing that requires any dealer level tools or programming to replace them.

So both banks stuck rich (p2196 and P2198) small evap leak (P0456) throttle stuck open (P2111) throttle position doesn't match the TPS position reported (P2135) I know with my 2012 Fusion there is a relearn/calibration for the ETC (throttle pedal and Throttle Body). With key in ON position but engine not running, slowly steadily press down on the gas pedal until it is fully down, then release it slowly and steadily. I wonder if that might help with the P2111 and P2135. The purge valve on my 2012 (Fusion, with the 3.5) is totally different, but all the other codes point to it, so if the valve has been replaced multiple times, and possibly tested with vacuum. If you disconnect the wiring connector to it, and the hose to the evap, and start the car, do you feel a vacuum on the opened nipple that goes to the evap? Can you tell if there is raw fuel in the evap line?

What year, and what are the current codes? AWD or FWD (different tanks some/all years)? How many miles are on it, and did anything change or happen before it started behaving this way?

Welcome. Sounds like you are not a fan, but hopefully you find enough redeeming qualities to keep it around. My father is 6'5" and I though he would hate my 2019 with the pano roof, but other than exaggerated swinging of the knees under the steering wheel, he thought it was just fine. The roof does make it closer to my head than I like, but this is the first vehicle I can't drive with the seat all the way back. I also have the seat back pretty vertical, if I was to recline it a bit I would be further away from the ceiling, but all Fords I have had are taller seat bottoms and more upright backs, and I just find it comfortable and and easier to drive that way. They are noisy, I am used to much quieter sedans, but it is quieter than the 2017 Escape it replaces (which isn't hard, it is a thin tin can with felt inner wheel wells). Between wheel noise and air noise, I just crank up the tunes.

2014 only offered heated seats (SEL and Limited trim levels), no cooling options available (not until 2017). It wouldn't just be something enabled in a module or SYNC, as it uses different hardware to do each thing (if it was available option for your year).

It is equipped with "One-Touch Integrated Start" (OTIS), which once you turn the key to START you can release it, and it will continue to try to start until it does. I think it is 10 seconds it will attempt to start the vehicle before stopping it. If it is continuously attempting to crank and start until you stop it, or it times out after 10 seconds, I would suspect a fuel delivery issue. One thing to try is to turn the key to ON and let it sit for a couple seconds, turn it to OFF, then back to ON, let it sit a couple of seconds, then try to start it. Sorta what you see how, second start attempt works, but is sluggish. Even with a battery healthy enough to crank the engine for 5-10 seconds, a weak fuel pump can often fail. I temped fate in my last car at 199,000 miles, it gave me all the indications of a failing fuel pump, but I disregarded them, until it finally left me stranded. It would not always start on the first attempt, it would sometimes start better with a battery charger attached (but the engine cranking speed on the starter was fine).

Drain and fill is the way to go. If it has been 90k miles, you might want to do multiple drain and refills (it takes 3 per the Ford manual to get most of the fluid changed that way). Mercon LV gets dark fast. Ford issued a bulletin about it 2 years after they started shipping vehicles with it. The dye it uses goes away pretty quickly (like Royal Purple in some uses). Some Mercon V stays red longer, but most of it is dark after 10k miles, and even with 3 or 4 drains, it will likely stay pretty dark, with a hint of red after the last change. As long as it doesn't smell burnt, isn't brown or have a lot of suspended solids, shouldn't be an issue.

It is a standard feature on your 2018 Titanium, so you have it. In the SYNC touchscreen, go to Settings (gears) and the Ambient Lighting (moon over a bulb emitting rays) and you can select a color, the brightness, or select a color and drag it down to 0 brightness.

I couldn't get the video to load, but with your description of where the coolant is coming from, yes, it is possible that it is the internal water pump is going bad and is leaking out of weep hole. Here is a post that seems to have a good picture of one of the weep holes:

Which socket are you checking? The one to the back of the headlight housing, or the one inside the headlight housing that the bulb plugs into? My 2012 Fusion tried to burn itself down with a short in the internal to the housing wiring. The socket to the bulb was burnt crispy and the wiring was cracked and missing much of the insulation. If you have power then check the ground.

Have you verified which type of headlight you have, halogen (9012 halogen bulb) or HID (D3S HID bulb)? A D3S HID bulb has a big aluminum box on the back of it, the 9012 Halogen is a simple bulb on a 90 degree base. If you already purchased one, cost difference of $10 or $50. Halogen was standard on the 2013 Limited, HID was an option, included in both groups 301a and 302a and optional on 300a.

2 fuses under the dash for control (F16 is the passenger side, F17 is drivers side), high beam is F39 (but that will only control the gate for low to high, not the actual bulb). HID has 2 under the hood, F78 passenger side, F57 drivers side).

Yeah, I don't think there is any way to enable or disable it, just some of the options (like guidelines, parking alert (if equipped), and delay. These are in the Vehicle settings (left display/controls on left of steering wheel Menu>Vehicle>Rear View Camera). Only reason it should not display is if the lift gate isn't closed, but it should show a message about that.

Does it have Halogen or HID headlights? I think if you have push button start and power lift gate you have HID. Have you tried removing the cover from behind the bulb and seeing if it is still plugged in and in the socket? There is only 1 bulb for low and high.

What indication do you still have that the BMS needs reset? What is the "low battery" message?

I think I misread your question, thinking there might be a recall or something for it. There is a TSB for earlier ones, I don't know if they fixed the issue for 2011 or not. There is very little fluid in the PTU, so any visible leak can mean half the fluid gone. I had 4 or 5 spots from it blowing the dark nasty fluid out the vent, and looking in the PTU from the fill/sight hole it was pretty far down. I really couldn't get any of the goo out of it, I filled it with new gear lube and drove it for a few thousand miles then sucked it out and refilled it to the sight hole, I don't know if I did it in time or not, but I have 15,000 miles on it since and I don't think I have any odd noises from it. I don't know if this TSB helps or not, and if it just covers up to 2010 because it came out when the 2010 model year was in production, TSB 09-25-07 (https://www.tsbsearch.com/Ford/09-25-7)

Not sure what good a TSB on a 12 year old vehicle would be, other than tell you about the issue and maybe show part numbers and times. I am assuming you are well out of warranty.

The symptoms, including the hard start after fueling, is a common issue with the purge valve or canister. It probably isn't related to the active shutters, which should be, as stated, active (electronically controlled to open and close in specific scenarios), and not just floppy, sounds like the control was deleted or broken.

I like to stock up on them from the junk yard, but they have become about the same price as some mid level new ones. In well over 1 million miles on cars with COPs I have had to replace 2, they went out from a coolant leak that filled spark plug wells and killed them. Otherwise I have a nice assortment of 10-12k mile take offs for vehicles I no longer own, so I only grabbed 3 for my 3.5. My 2000 Grand Marquis still had 7 OEM 21 year old 330,000 miles ones, and a Mustang one from someone that thought they needed bright yellow ones so I bought the set from them. Much better than counterfeit ones off Amazon or eBay or ones with the wrong connectors and splicing or making them work. I broke the mount on one in my 3.5, and it came with one of the connectors in bad shape, but so far still good, but only at 130k miles.

I prefer to have a certain amount of control and not let the vehicle do it, but stop and go traffic for 45 minutes? Vehicle, do your thing! You have to be stopped for less than 3 seconds for it to start back up on its own. If over 3 seconds, you have to press RES on the steering wheel or you have to blip the throttle, then it will "follow" again. Creeped forward for 12 cars at a stop sign without pressing the brake or the gas to continue, pressed the brake for me to stop at the stop sign, then pressed RES and it resumed. I do frequently find myself using the gas to get closer to vehicle in front of me than 1 bar allows, and as it states it will accelerate to a faster speed than set sometimes when you change lanes.