dabangsta

Same fuse for the license plate light, so the wiring to the liftgate does come into play.

For me using the Stop and Go part of adaptive cruise was the thing I was apprehensive about, once I got used to adaptive cruise in general. It is great in stop and go traffic on the interstate, however I do need to go with 2 bars instead of my normal 1, as 0-65-0 triggered the impending collision warning a few times (I was ready for it and braked manually before it was an issue). My parents have a 2020 Explorer Platinum (since 2019) with all the good stuff (my 2019 Edge SEL is missing a lot of what the OPs ST has), and they don't use much of the tech either, they still back up by turning their heads and looking out the back window, for example, let alone let it try to park itself.

Welcome and glad you are enjoying your ST! Even a Ford dealer would not be able to fully explain all the gadgets and gizmos, but with it being current and similar to others, maybe a little. I think after 4 months I have probably used all options, and other than trying to figure out why sometimes the heated seats default to on (it was 99 degrees yesterday, so...no more heated seat please), got a handle on them. Last thing was someone turned off Lane Keeping and it took me a second to find the button at the end of the turn signal stalk to re-enable it.

Thanks for the follow up and glad you got it resolved!

Did you/they have a code reader that can read ABS codes? I think that an ABS sensor type issue can cause this. I used a bluetooth OBD-II adapter and Torque app on my phone to watch wheel speeds and ABS signals to diagnose an issue with my 2012 Fusion. I assume that you also have the ABS light on?

2019+ got AWD disconnect for all models (2.0 or 2.7 powered).

Seems like the ST got it in 2019, and in some cases (I think there is a hot weather group that is available in certain locales) earlier Edges with the 2.7 (Sport and ST) had it as well.

The OEM ones are a weird shape that only take up a slot on the outer edge. Probably cost prohibitive and some parts like the cover are on back order, to replace them with OEM fog lights ($105 each), the mounts ($140 each), and the cover ($170 each). They are pretty effective, they seem to fill a lot of the area that the weird OEM LED headlights leave shadows.

I let mine close on my arm, and it was pretty aggressively still trying to close, when the dog triggered it to close I pulled a cooler in the way so the kennel door wouldn't hit the glass. There are ways to get rid of the honk when running and key is no longer in the cabin, it requires some advanced stuff like an OBD-II adapter, a laptop, and a program called ForScan. I think a lot of people that do delivery like to disable it. For most it is a good thing, my wife closed the pano roof the other night and it honked at her when she tried to lock it because she left it on but not running.

It honks so you can't lock the keys in the car. You can still lock them in if you want using the keypad on the door. That honk when the key is the cabin negates the likelyhood of it locking you out. I haven't tried a key in the cargo area, just the passenger area. I have had a few close calls with the Hands Free Liftgate, I have little toy dogs and when trying to get them into their kennel in the cargo area they run under the bumper and close it. Worst part about that is the kennel door swings out and could contact the rear window as it is closing. It has opened while washing it also. Hands free is gimmicky, but now that I have it and use it, it is handy and I don't have to put down what I am carrying, or open it with the fob before I get there.

What year and model and options? I guess most importantly does it have auto dimmer rear view mirror. On my 2019 SEL with auto dimming mirror I am using this connector. There are a number of posts that show the wiring/pins for ground and switched power. I am going a DIY route with pins pushed in the back (work well on another car), there are also premade adapters that go inline and have a 12v->5v adapter as part of it.

Welcome! As a few months owner of a 2019 SEL (with additions of Group 201a with premium audio, dual message displays in cluster, heated front seats, LED Signature lighting...and Co-Pilot360 Assist+ with adaptive cruise,...and convenience package with remote start), I understand. I came from a low optioned 2017 Escape, and found a well equipped SEL to replace it. It took some time to get used to the Adaptive Cruise. First thing I did was update SYNC 3 to 3.4 (the newer darker UI), make sure I had the door code. I still have to learn why frequently it starts up with drivers seat heat on (it was nice for about 2 weeks, but it is already 85 degrees where I live). Know what standard features you have, what options, and read up in the owners manual, I get the PDF and do it on my computer. I also had to ask about a few things here, lots of experience and access to advanced documents by quite a few here.

As part of the paid diagnostic did they provide any codes it set? I think it is a common failure, rarely an actual wiring issue, most of the time the wiring harness and the connector on the parking brake motor corrode. There is nothing that requires any dealer level tools or programming to replace them.

So both banks stuck rich (p2196 and P2198) small evap leak (P0456) throttle stuck open (P2111) throttle position doesn't match the TPS position reported (P2135) I know with my 2012 Fusion there is a relearn/calibration for the ETC (throttle pedal and Throttle Body). With key in ON position but engine not running, slowly steadily press down on the gas pedal until it is fully down, then release it slowly and steadily. I wonder if that might help with the P2111 and P2135. The purge valve on my 2012 (Fusion, with the 3.5) is totally different, but all the other codes point to it, so if the valve has been replaced multiple times, and possibly tested with vacuum. If you disconnect the wiring connector to it, and the hose to the evap, and start the car, do you feel a vacuum on the opened nipple that goes to the evap? Can you tell if there is raw fuel in the evap line?

What year, and what are the current codes? AWD or FWD (different tanks some/all years)? How many miles are on it, and did anything change or happen before it started behaving this way?

Welcome. Sounds like you are not a fan, but hopefully you find enough redeeming qualities to keep it around. My father is 6'5" and I though he would hate my 2019 with the pano roof, but other than exaggerated swinging of the knees under the steering wheel, he thought it was just fine. The roof does make it closer to my head than I like, but this is the first vehicle I can't drive with the seat all the way back. I also have the seat back pretty vertical, if I was to recline it a bit I would be further away from the ceiling, but all Fords I have had are taller seat bottoms and more upright backs, and I just find it comfortable and and easier to drive that way. They are noisy, I am used to much quieter sedans, but it is quieter than the 2017 Escape it replaces (which isn't hard, it is a thin tin can with felt inner wheel wells). Between wheel noise and air noise, I just crank up the tunes.

2014 only offered heated seats (SEL and Limited trim levels), no cooling options available (not until 2017). It wouldn't just be something enabled in a module or SYNC, as it uses different hardware to do each thing (if it was available option for your year).

It is equipped with "One-Touch Integrated Start" (OTIS), which once you turn the key to START you can release it, and it will continue to try to start until it does. I think it is 10 seconds it will attempt to start the vehicle before stopping it. If it is continuously attempting to crank and start until you stop it, or it times out after 10 seconds, I would suspect a fuel delivery issue. One thing to try is to turn the key to ON and let it sit for a couple seconds, turn it to OFF, then back to ON, let it sit a couple of seconds, then try to start it. Sorta what you see how, second start attempt works, but is sluggish. Even with a battery healthy enough to crank the engine for 5-10 seconds, a weak fuel pump can often fail. I temped fate in my last car at 199,000 miles, it gave me all the indications of a failing fuel pump, but I disregarded them, until it finally left me stranded. It would not always start on the first attempt, it would sometimes start better with a battery charger attached (but the engine cranking speed on the starter was fine).

Drain and fill is the way to go. If it has been 90k miles, you might want to do multiple drain and refills (it takes 3 per the Ford manual to get most of the fluid changed that way). Mercon LV gets dark fast. Ford issued a bulletin about it 2 years after they started shipping vehicles with it. The dye it uses goes away pretty quickly (like Royal Purple in some uses). Some Mercon V stays red longer, but most of it is dark after 10k miles, and even with 3 or 4 drains, it will likely stay pretty dark, with a hint of red after the last change. As long as it doesn't smell burnt, isn't brown or have a lot of suspended solids, shouldn't be an issue.

It is a standard feature on your 2018 Titanium, so you have it. In the SYNC touchscreen, go to Settings (gears) and the Ambient Lighting (moon over a bulb emitting rays) and you can select a color, the brightness, or select a color and drag it down to 0 brightness.

I couldn't get the video to load, but with your description of where the coolant is coming from, yes, it is possible that it is the internal water pump is going bad and is leaking out of weep hole. Here is a post that seems to have a good picture of one of the weep holes:

Which socket are you checking? The one to the back of the headlight housing, or the one inside the headlight housing that the bulb plugs into? My 2012 Fusion tried to burn itself down with a short in the internal to the housing wiring. The socket to the bulb was burnt crispy and the wiring was cracked and missing much of the insulation. If you have power then check the ground.

Have you verified which type of headlight you have, halogen (9012 halogen bulb) or HID (D3S HID bulb)? A D3S HID bulb has a big aluminum box on the back of it, the 9012 Halogen is a simple bulb on a 90 degree base. If you already purchased one, cost difference of $10 or $50. Halogen was standard on the 2013 Limited, HID was an option, included in both groups 301a and 302a and optional on 300a.

2 fuses under the dash for control (F16 is the passenger side, F17 is drivers side), high beam is F39 (but that will only control the gate for low to high, not the actual bulb). HID has 2 under the hood, F78 passenger side, F57 drivers side).

Yeah, I don't think there is any way to enable or disable it, just some of the options (like guidelines, parking alert (if equipped), and delay. These are in the Vehicle settings (left display/controls on left of steering wheel Menu>Vehicle>Rear View Camera). Only reason it should not display is if the lift gate isn't closed, but it should show a message about that.