dabangsta

The keys for my 1982 F-150 (note that the blade is a mirror image/opposite and each one only fits in the slot designed for it): Same with my 79 Zephyr, 81 Fairmont, 80 Fairmont, and one of my Mustangs, it was the earliest vehicle I remember with that style key. Yes, I will stop now, just thought I would throw out more better ideas on not getting into a state where you might be locked out at a bad time. I don't compute short term ownership.

I wanted the slightly better fuel mileage out of the 2.0, but in the back of my mind I wasn't sure I wanted another 3.5 powered vehicle. My 2012 Fusion Sport has the 3.5, and I drive it hard, and it only has 128k miles. I maintain it fairly well, but again, drive it aggressively and hard. I also didn't own it for the first 105k miles, and it had none of the 100k-120k maintenance done before I bought it. It is was my beat around town car, but it has been on a few longer 1000+ mile trips, and my son is using it to learn to drive and go to school with. I wanted to not have a "coolant intrusion" 2.0 (I sweated bullets with my 2017 Escape with the 1.5), and something with the amount of labor involved in swapping a water pump, if caught in time to not cause catastrophic engine failure, I thought a 2019+ Edge was what I wanted, as the 2020+ Escape just didn't excite me, and finding a later 2019 Escape wasn't really in the cards. I thought I preferred the normally aspirated engines, but with how much more driveable the 1.5 GTDI over the 2.5 is is crazy, pretty similar ratings, but just different beasts to drive. If I drive sensible in the Edge, I can get over 30 mpg (cruise set to 81, very little acceleration to get out of traffic), only time I got over 27 mpg in my Fusion is when I had a temp spare on it and babied it home. I get 3 mpg better on a similar generally downhill interstate run with the 2.0 over the 3.5, but the 3.5 is so much fun to drive I rarely just cruise along with traffic, and gas mileage takes a hit.

If it was me, and I was in this situation, I personally would also buy the door lock cylinder kit that you can setup to match your existing key. I haven't done one in awhile, and it wasn't the easiest thing for a shaky person to do, but Standard Motor Products sells a kit with a new cylinder, 4 sets of the 5 possible key positions, and hopefully detailed instructions on how to do it. I think it is possible to do with a torx T20 bit as the only tool, I don't think the existing lock cylinder needs a working key to be removed (like the ignition cylinder). I think the Ford kit is also like that, and isn't a non PATS key matching pair, but I get conflicting pictures looking up the part number for it. I would go bonkers not having a physical key that worked to open up my vehicle. I would try to match the existing key that works in the ignition instead of adding another key to my ring, but for the longest time my older Fords used a different key for the door/trunk than the ignition (round head for one, square for the other) which I always thought was weird.

Search eBay for your year and model, the same 3 button remote is used by a number of the same generation Fords (3 button like the trucks, hatched vehicles like the Focus). Should be around $5-$7 for a pair. Make sure it isn't just the shell/case! I bought the key and remote combo, but I find many of the fobs only (but only in pairs for cheap). To program it you turn the key from off to run 8 times, the door locks cycle indicating programming mode, then you press a button on the remote(s), turn the key to off, and any remotes you just programmed in will lock/unlock/panic alert.

A few threads here on this, but most of them involve using the rear window defroster as you mention.

The older external button type can eventually break, I had one on my 2000 Grand Marquis do this, at the worse possible time. It froze, and when trying to unlock it (with the key in it, running) it broke. Personally while I am a frequent user of the keypad still, I have found I can't rely on it. It is a convenience and rarely what I would consider a daily use thing. So you have a regular plain PATS key, not the IKT (Integrated Keyhead Transmitter) key with the fob in the head? You can easily buy just a fob and easily program it in. I did that with my 2012 Fusion that has the IKT, I wanted a smaller key/fob combo. $5-$7 for a pair, and the steps to program them are easy (but probably not in your owners manual since the IKT programs the RKE stuff when you program PATS). This is my current key lineup for my 2012 Fusion:

Yes, in the MyKey settings it does show 4 admin keys, I should have checked it when in the buying process. I could tell by the work the dealership had reported to Carfax that keys would be an issue, but I figured it was only one missing programmed fob. Looking at the process with the 10 minute waits and the near 5 minute need to open a door or otherwise reset timers, it should be less than an hour of labor if all goes well, and I get that the expensive hardware needed to do it needs paid for. I might play the "don't feel real secure with 2 programmed fobs floating out there" card with the selling dealership, but I doubt that will get me very far.

I am going to start calling around, local dealer, dealer (Ford) that I bought the vehicle from, and locksmiths. 2019 SEL. It did come with 2 functioning IA smart fobs. 1 is OEM, 1 is aftermarket. I don't know if the dealer added the aftermarket one, or the OEM one (carfax shows them adding and programming key(s)). I asked them to clear all the unavailable keys, make sure there were 2 smart fobs, and that they get the emergency keys cut (both missing). Got 2 out of 3, but I didn't know it had 4 keys programmed in until I tried adding a new one. However it has 4 (the max) programmed in, so I cannot add a third one (3 drivers, 1 that I want MyKey stuff for, and just because I like redundancy). I am guessing that if they understand what I want (only the 2 keys I have programmed in), and are willing to deal with an aftermarket key, $300. That is a little out of my comfort zone, but I have no choice, no DIY thing I can do with a 2019. I guess I should also get them to program in the third key, as that is the proof that there are only 2 programmed fobs. I bought a used OEM one off eBay, and when I get to the end of attempting to add it, it says max keys already.

Normally I would say that the alignment is spot on, but that looks like a little more wear on the outside edge.

2016 manual shows that it should be there (Traction Control in Driver Assist menu), and I don't think 2016 got the Sport mode for ESC. Could you shut it off permanently in this menu, or is it still temporary until enabled in menu or next time the vehicle is started?

How would a powertrain warranty cover wipers? Bumper to Bumper is 3/36k. Either way, I think they just were just venting on a misdiagnosis and some out of pocket costs associated with it, and turned it into a learning experience. I am maybe 30% into the features my SEL has that my 2017 Escape didn't have, and that last 1% that I don't know about are the toughest ones.

It isn't an option in my Driver Assist list in my 2019 SEL. I have a button near the light switch to temporarily disable it (it will be enabled next start up). If you have an ST then you can set Sport mode.

That goofy cubby area in the center console under the dash (in front of and over the power port on the passenger side), with no rear facing access. I don't see how it is useful for anything. Also the center console storage, glove box, door storage...are small. I tried putting the contents of my old 2017 Escape into the same compartments in the Edge, and they don't fit, at all. Only part bigger is the little tray in the console storage area, which was gum, chapstick, pen and pencil.

The 2020 SE has no packages, it comes standard with the 8 inch SYNC 3 unit and front rain sensing wipers. I also think that I would have been okay with an SE as I got used to SYNC 3 and CarPlay/Android Auto, but the SEL had enough of the additional standard and options that I like it, I would love HD radio and the better B&O radio, the forward sensing system, acoustic side windows, etc, but with the Assist+ and Convenience Packages, I get close.

Did you try the key fob in the key backup slot in the front of the inside of the center console storage area? While test driving vehicles I got to try that out since the remote fob on a 2016 I wanted to try had a low battery. Also used that slot on my 2019 to get the door code. But it sounds more like an issue with the starter if not a battery wiring issue. If it was a fob issue it would say authorized key not detected (or similar). The fob proximity signal and button press are separate from the internal proximity for starting with the PATS signal, but I think it would take a significant issue for PATS to no longer be recognized but the fob is.

So you have the bi-xenon HID 401A with the tech package (Nav, BLIS, remote start, etc) correct? That means yes, that inside bulb is the DRL. I don't know if that is a configurable one or not. Is it an H15 HID bulb?

2019+ Edge all Series/Group from SE up got bi LED low/high beams. Prior to that, only Titanium/Limited had optional HID. I haven't checked how they are for oncoming traffic, they are whiter than I am used to, but they have lots of shadow/dark areas that halogen projectors don't seem to have. As I get older I am having more issues with bright/misadjusted headlights from oncoming traffic, but it also probably has to do with more and more OEM LED and people installing LED bulbs in housing that they just do well in.

My 2019 Edge was built 1/6/2019, prior to the date that the new block was put onto the line and used. I thought that since it was a VEP engine it wasn't affected like the Cleveland (USA) block, but I guess only time will tell. Mine already had the EGR cooler issue with overheating and leaking coolant and fixed.

Wrong bolt pattern, and with adapters they would stick out too far more than likely. Oh, and Welcome!

Living on the edge with only one key! This is the first of many things that are difficult and expensive and could easily leave you stranded. I just bought my Edge, and even though CarFax showed the dealership "rekeying", "adding key(s)", it only had one fob, and no emergency key. There was no way I was leaving with that setup. They got a second fob and programmed it in (not cloned), but still didn't have the emergency keys in the fobs. Instead of waiting around that day (it wouldn't have happened, that lock smith couldn't do them) I waited a couple of days and they sent someone. They said that the key blank was on back order, the ones I got seem aftermarket, very similar to the one I bought from China for $3.

Ford offers summer only tires on a lot of vehicles, including the Edges with the ST Performance Brake Package, and the Explorer ST has them as optional as well. I run summer UHP (BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2) on my Fusion (2012 Sport with the 3.5, AWD), and they are pretty greasy when it is near freezing. I live in the desert southwest and it rarely gets near freezing. This is a second car (my primary), and I have left it sitting to drive other vehicles in the evening. It is AWD and I have chains, but I probably wouldn't drive it up the mountain when it has snow or ice. When I had Continental ContiProContact tires I drove it to Denver during a snow event, and other than some bad habits creeping into my driving (speeding up in turn lane to make a light...oops) it did great, but even just the cold with the UHPs make them a handful.

I am new to the Edge, so since it is a 2019 or newer (ST), I think they all get updated to 3.4 of SYNC. What year, what version of SYNC (2, 3), if SYNC 3 do you have 3.0, 3.3, or 3.4 or newer (the darker blue UI)? My 2019 had 3.3 from the factory, never updated. It was the light blue UI similar to the 3.0 version in my 2017 Escape. I downloaded 3.4 and installed it, and it has done a few smaller updates via WiFi (WiFi didn't work to get version 3.4). Since I don't use the built in NAV, I didn't check for map updates, they are not free (I don't have a subscription for them).

Thanks, that attached workshop manual pdf is very handy! Lens appears to very easy to separate. With the 201a group I have the bottom cluster with the 2 screens.

Once we signed all the papers on the 2019 Edge SEL, they detailed it one more time. Somehow they got that slick nasty spray on the back side of the cluster. I didn't notice it until the sun hit it, but I would have noticed it on the test drive. Can the back of the clear plastic lens be accessed non destructively and easily? It doesn't seem to be going away, it isn't going to evaporate it doesn't look like.

No, the 2009 Edge didn't get global window open. On my vehicles that have it (2012 Fusion, 2015 Fusion, 2017 Escape until a dealer flash disabled it, 2019 Edge) you press unlock on the fob, then press and hold unlock again until the windows come down.