dabangsta

What version of the software do you have? There was a new release within the last week that seems to fix some related issues. I had rev 22251 and I was in denial about other people posting about the screen going black but still playing last input. But it eventually happened to me numerous times. I did the "soft reset" (which is pressing seek up (=>) and power at the same time) until it reset. That fixed it, but it would happen again within a day or 2, sometimes in the same drive cycle. I checked the OTA updates and didn't show one, but the Ford support page did (23188) and I did the update via a USB drive and so far no black screens again. Some other users think that the black screen was related to temperature, I didn't see it when ambient temps were in the 110's and interior temps in excess of 140 degrees, but a bit later when it cooled off to around 100.

I have SYNC 1 in my 2012 Fusion, and SYNC 1.1 in my 2015 Fusion (should be the same as yours). I had to be sure they were both updated to a mid level like version 4.4 (not the latest, as it disables specific functionality I use, the mic for Hey Google/Siri and commands on the phone), but I still have to either pull the fuse for SYNC (not easy on either Fusion), or pull the battery for a few minutes, then SYNC works like it should for 4-6 months or so. Sometimes it slightly glitches and can be cured with turning off the car, opening a door, and starting again.

There are various SSM and CSPs for 2017-2022 vehicles and deep sleep message when: the battery voltage is above 9.5v SOC is above 50% it hasn't sat for 14 days no TCU update received OTA (all of the above items mean it should not go into deep sleep, and a BMS reset then diagnostics should be ran if the battery tests out) My parents 2020 Explorer suffered through that, and the dealer was oblivious to any of the SSMs for it. I am not clear on if they had issues with auto start/stop or not. Did the dealer actually test the CCA of the battery or possibly just a quick voltage test? Seems early for a battery to have gone flat, but when I let my battery in my 2017 Escape get down to 200 CCA (it was a 760 CCA AGM battery), it wouldn't do auto start/stop (always the grey A with the slash), it would go into deep sleep overnight, and I couldn't listen the radio in accessory mode (which the equivalent to that in your 22 Edge might not be the same).

Weird that the 2021 ST doesn't have wireless charger (unless it is a 401A "high package" vehicle) with the ST-Line having it standard (and Titanium). No real loss, I want to unplug mine so I don't need the little mat I printed, or put phones in face down. My 2019 has a door over it, and if I do wireless charging and close the lid within 10-15 minutes I see that my phone is no longer charging. With it open I get about an hour before it over heats.

Crazy that a Type C->12v accessory->60w PD power adapter->QI pad charges better than the built in pad. I had to really noodle on that setup. Especially when that type c to 12v only supports 1amp, and that 60w adapter would be 5 amps draw. I do agree the wireless pad in the vehicle is poorly done. I have a 2019 so no wireless AA so I have to plug in anyways, but I want to store my phone in the console. If I do it face up then it tries to wirelessly charge but it just makes my phone hot and stop charging at all. If I just do bluetooth and not wired connection, pretty much the same thing happens. It won't charge faster than it is used, even with the screen off. If I put my phone in there face down or on top of a mat I printed, it does fine. My phone barely fits next to the USB ports on the charging mat, I have no side to side and only .25 inches on the bottom (I use a 90 degree type c connector). If nothing else that type c to 12v power point is cool, I have a lot of type c chargers that put out up to 180 watts and that would be useful, but a bit out of my price range for a gadget.

Personally I wouldn't subject myself to 15 year old technology if I was expecting more than FM radio or streaming. Last maps are from 2015 for that setup (same one in a 2010 MKZ I test drove). While I am personally fine with my SYNC 1 version in my 2012 Fusion (it just streams, there is no display other than VFD that shows the song name) as I have a phone mount on the dash, so I get up to date navigation, music streaming, etc. But when I drive my 2019 SEL with SYNC 3 I wish I had a touch screen setup in the dash. Since it is a double-din opening, I would go aftermarket with something that supports Android Auto/Apple Carplay.

Lots of decontenting happened, and weird combos and things added one year to lower models, then removed for all models. You also lost the SecuriCode keypad on the drivers door B pillar and the CD player (which I am glad my 2019 SEL doesn't have, but the TI still had it).

Or it was lost or (not saying this is your situation) some buy here, pay here high interest rate sketchy dealers will hold on to one (and also possibly add a GPS tracker). My 2019 had one key when I looked at it on the lot (a Ford dealership in a small town 50 miles from major population centers, with the "no city sales tax" perk that is only 1%...). The sale was contingent on the vehicle coming with 2 fobs, and 2 cut emergency keys in the fobs. I also requested that they reset it to only have the 2 that it came with, but they didn't do that, so it has 4 admin keys, which is the max, and there is no DIY way to remove any. If (and I do) want to add a third one (start out with MyKey for my new driver) The dealer charges at least 2 hours labor, so almost $300 to get all keys removed, and the 2 I have added back. I wish I would have paid better attention!

Hopefully it is programmed as a new fob and not a clone, but you can now follow the process to get the securecode door keypad code hopefully (the process is on pages 64/65 in your manual), basically you put the key in the emergency slot in the center console and while not pressing the brake press the start button, a few second later press it again and swap to the second key and press start again, and it will show in the cluster. Any errors like a door open may make it not show (so make sure all the doors are closed).

I don't really deal with hills, but when you posted the original post, I tried some (2019 SEL w hill start assist since all trim levels have it) hills in reverse, letting off the brake for a bit before touching the gas, giving it various amounts of throttle, going past the 3 seconds or so it says it will hold, and never replicated it.

Not sure what year or model you have, but while they did go away on the SEL and ST-Line in 2021, but the Titanium and ST still have them, if you are referring the ones on the front of the mirror and not the ones in the mirror (which I don't think they ever had). I rarely need the paper owners manual, but when I do, it is handy. I tried the owners manual using the SYNC 4 screen and it was okay, but not as handy as the PDF and searching, the HTML version is hard to navigate passed a certain number of pages or continue on without going back to the index.

Actually a lot to unpack in that one small post. It is possible to add the OEM remote start to your vehicle. It is documented here: It is a little more complex (well, expensive) for you with only one fob. I don't know the best way to proceed since you need 2 new fobs (with the remote start button and the different frequency) but you can't program them yourself since it requires 2 existing ones. Having 2 fobs makes getting the securcode keypad code easy.

The basic door shell should be the same. The lower moulding might be different depending on the year and other options like Elite, same with the upper belt moulding, and some of the interior bits and electronics. They seem the same for the generation that has Titanium (2015+). Each year might have a different paint color, interior panel color and trim treatment.

Welcome! Nice looking ride!

I would say that most places $150 and up is what the going rate is. Many simple diagnostics are over $200 just due to that 1 hour of labor. Add in a machine and something that takes wait time (but you have to time it right) and it is down right insane.

I think you might find that 65,000 miles is not that many for brakes, unless severe duty. Your 2020 had EPB (Electronic Park Brake), and you need to put the rear brakes into service mode (the park brake motor retracts) and put back into regular mode when done. It is easy to do and find how to do it. You might also find the rears wear faster. I would check them for even wear and how much pad is left at all corners before just replacing them because of miles. I think that slotted and drilled rotors on a street vehicle is for looks only. I think that the slotting wears pads faster than you might expect (that is what they are for), and drilled tend to crack. Having said that, I always put them on my vehicles that I drive, along with aggressive pads. I think I have the Powerstop Z23 kit on my 2012 Fusion (slotted and drilled rotors, and pads) and I go through pads every 20k miles...but I am very hard on brakes and cars in general (but still had 3-4mm pads left on my 2017 Escape at 96,000 miles). I wouldn't put them on my daily driver that gets 15-20k miles a year (my 2019 Edge SEL).

Welcome! There are some great resources on this board, both in already posted questions and answers, tech articles for fixes, modifications, and issues, and if you post a question with enough details (year, trim level, engine, what is happening, what you have tried so far, etc) then you will have the best chance and getting relavent information. If you are going to be active, it is best to post your vehicle specs to a signature (the details under your user name, if filled out, do not show up in your posts unfortunately).

So that image is not of your vehicle? SEL has DATC and available MyFordTouch, and Limited/Sport has Sony with DATC. Most levels of controls for 2011 are soft touch. There is single manual controls (but not with MyFordTouch), the dual controls, dual controls with Sony (touch sensitive) and dual auto controls with MyTemp (2 knobs in the center) which are also light touch buttons. I assume it is one with light touch buttons?

2015? What model? I don't think there are any fuses in the controls for the temperature controls or radio in those components. Yes, the FCIM is attached to the faceplate.

How about if you have fluid, and start it up and turn the wheel side to side in one place? I had a high pressure hose break on a vehicle and it sprayed the fluid out the front and no where near the vehicle. I only noticed it when I cranked the wheel to leave a parking spot with a wall in front of me, and I saw it stream there.

Was the USB hub from a Ford dealer, or from an online seller or very specifically from China? 3.0 supports CarPlay (2.2 does as well). While that popup error usually is related to the hub as it says, have you tried other USB cables? My 2017 Escape at first seemed to be very finicky about them (maybe it was the initial update from 1.1 to 2.2, then eventually to 3.0 made it better?), and maybe the cheap knock offs are better now, but most of them I try now work. I get very funky ones, like 6 inch long, 90 degree on both sides, so fit in the cubby and make the other drivers not try to use their phones while driving.

Of all the things that need to happen for it to stop, having the CEL on is not one of them. Usually it is the battery state of charge, it is either too low, or it thinks it is too low (like when I replaced my battery that was down to 220 CCA it didn't re-enable until I did the BMS reset steps). If it is still the same cylinder, do you have other indicators, like low on coolant, or steam out of the tailpipe? I don't know the lifespan of the low pressure pump in the tank, or the high pressure mechanical one, I assume that it is like any other in tank fuel pump, 178,000 might be early but it has been a good run.

Yes, it takes a specific coolant. It calls for Motorcraft Orange, however Motorcraft no longer produces it. So you can find many Dexcool aftermarket coolants that meet the Ford specification, WSS-M97B44-D2 (look for that on the bottle), or you can use the new Ford Yellow which is approved for use with that same specification. Remember that after the initial fill is drained and replaced, the coolant life is now 5 years, 100,000 what your owners manual says, probably 3 years, 50,000 miles, and not the 200,000 that the Yellow extended life is. They can be mixed or a flush done, either way. https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD Motorcraft Yellow Antifreeze-Coolant Backward Compatability.pdf

copy and paste data from wiki page to Google Sheets, and a simple formula to compute the percentage, yes. I don't think it works correctly when then are more Edge that Fusion, and I probably got it wrong as not a math wizard

The usual wiki check the reference footnotes apply. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fusion_(Americas)#Yearly_U.S._sales https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Edge#Sales