dabangsta

I have always relied on PATS and undesirable vehicles as deterrents, but I guess that isn't enough. Sorry to hear about that happening.

An LOC to get from speaker level to line in, safely routed big gauge power wire, 2 subs in a box with an amp? I don't think I have seen an integrated 2 12 inch powered sub setup before, most are 8 inch and single. I remember taking up half my trunk for subs, and my 9 speaker setup in my 2019 SEL is lacking, but I would drive my family nuts with it anyways. My 2012 Fusion has the 390w with subs and surround, it lacks the the punch of larger subs, but it is okay.

With my 2017 Escape with the 1.5 I consistently seemed to lose about 1mpg on most highway trips with the cross bars (nothing else) on. It is so small that it is hard to substantiate but I think I over the various trips I did with and without, I could detect a loss of mpg. My Edge has the pano roof so no rails.

Which engine? The 3.5 has Select Shift on the shifter knob (the 2.0 has grade assist I think instead). I think it is harder to find since only the Sport got paddle shifters for that year/range (for the OP and mine AWD vehicles got it, 2015-2018 it was standard).

If I lived where corrosion was an issue, I wouldn't have cheaped out and gotten the lowest end ones. But I live in the desert, and I only have to worry about ham fisted techs when they install new tires (or if I have to take it back for rotations for the warranty). I have rotated mine twice since installing the new lug nuts, and had 2 flats, and they remain tight, thread on and off easily, and haven't rusted.

SYNC2 software revision 3.10 doesn't mean you have SYNC 3. You still have SYNC with MyFord Touch (SYNC 2) and doesn't mean that CarPlay will now work.

That doesn't seem right. The LED bulb should have chips on 2 sides, and should be oriented with the LED chips to the sides at the 3 and 9 positions. I have never seen a single sided LED (some 360 degree, and some front facing) headlight replacements. I think you have the mechanism wrong. In low beam mode it actually rises and blocks the lower part of the reflector, blocking the light that would be coming out of the top of the projector lens. In high beam it is just not blocking any light.

What year and model and options is the vehicle? What bulbs do you have (H11, 9005, 9007, H7, H9)? If it is bi-xenon then you are replacing HID bulbs with LED (I am not familiar with all the Lincoln offerings, and not all Edge either for that matter). If the bulbs have LEDs on each side, then it should be straight up and down with one side at 3 o'clock and the other at 9 o'clock. If the LEDs have a "low" side and a "high" side (which they shouldn't since I doubt this is a dual filament setup) then there should be instructions but these are for reflector headlights and are shielded.

I think more to the point that non fuel related items got replaced. A 2010 still has an emergency fuel pump shut off switch, was that checked? It has a fuel pump diode with a fuse in addition to the relay and fuse for the pump. Did you check for the proper signal and 12v to the fuel pump at the relay? I assume you don't hear the relay click or the fuel pump when turning the key to on.

Thanks for adding the images! I would have thought the rears would be less gap as the EPB usually causes more clearance issues on other vehicles. Unrelated to the spare fitment with ST Performance brakes mostly, I have debated going further than just the larger front rotors (I think FWD and AWD use the same caliper and pads, but a different caliper mount, which seems like the radius of the pads would be odd) and possibly going for the 345mm rotors all around, with the brake calipers in the front with the larger pistons. I don't think it would affect things like the adaptive cruise or emergency braking (it doesn't just blindly apply brakes, it could tell that it might be stopping better and lower the effort). I just don't think I drive the vehicle enough around town to do the work. It is my wife's daily driver, I generally only drive it on the highway on vacations. Should doesn't think it needs new brakes, let alone better ones, and she is really not into red painted calipers. The brakes it has are more than adequate for daily driving and panic braking. I tend to get them to fade most times I drive so I usually have to replace them more frequently and also usually try to do OEM style upgrades (like 13 inch Cobra rotors to replace 10.8 inch rotors on my Lincoln Mark VIII).

I hope you get a reply from someone that has tried it and not just speculating (like me...). I want to upgrade my front brakes on my FWD 2019 SEL to the larger AWD rotor and calipers. The rotors are the same size as the ST/ST Performance (345mm...and are 25mm larger than the Focus ST...) and I need to upgrade my 17 inch spare to 18 inch. Other than the calipers have 2mm larger pistons (than the standard brakes) and painted, I don't think there is that much difference in the size. More the difference in the rotor style. The order guide says that the inflator kit is substituted due to the summer tires, and not the brakes.

So in looking for a steering wheel used, I can't find one that has adaptive cruise and paddle shifters. But it seems like I only need the rear trim piece, the electronic switches and harness. That all will bolt up to my existing 2019 wheel and the trim piece has the cut outs for them? The more I drive it in the mountains the more I miss manual shift ability. Did you take any pictures of the work you did? Did the wiring to the switches need to be inserted into a connector did the harness for them snap into an unused spot?

Same here. If the car is off, irregardless of the position of the light switch those lights are off. With the car in "accessory" (push start without pushing brakes), On, and accessory delay those lights are on, irregardless of the light switch position.

They don't illuminate on my 2019, and I don't think they should. They are not functional until in accessory or run (or delay).

It does have a filter, and while it isn't user serviceable it is more like ones that are, not just a screen in between the case halves, but at bottom of the pump.

I would be suspect about a transmission fluid that was both V and low viscosity. I had another vehicle that had the same transmission that first used Mercon, then Mercon V (which was back spec'ed for Mercon), and finally Mercon LV. I don't think anything changed as far as programming or friction material, but still with as many issues as these transmissions sometimes have, putting the incorrect fluid seems counter productive. Generally Mercon LV is also Dexron VI spec (both low viscosity), and Mercon V is Dexron III. I am sure it much more compatible than SP.

I think Mercon ULV is like Mercon LV, and it starts out darker red and get really dark really quick. When the first Mercon LV vehicles came out Ford published a document that fluid color, as long as not brown or smelling burnt, is not a good indicator of health of fluid or transmission. Obviously a lot of solids in it is bad also.

Welcome! I think you will find a lot of very good information here on upkeep, issue solving, and modifications. SEL with some addons seems to be my sweet spot as well, I would love many of the things from the Titanium but usually takes me over my comfort zone for price.

Welcome! Honorable reason to need a midsized SUV. I should be empty nesting now, but generally there are 3-5 of us when we go any distance, and it is a good size for that. A little more space than my 2017 Escape (but not as much more as might be expected). I don't know how much the loss of sliding back doors is with however old they are, but my sister decided it wasn't worth it and went from an Odyssey to an Outback to lose the soccer mom vibe.

What year, model, and radio (Sony B&O, premium, 6 speaker, 4 speaker, etc), SYNC 1.1, 2, 3? 2011-2014?

45-70 psi at idle? That seems pretty high. 20-30 depending on temperature is more the normal. I did a similar thing with a 3.5 that had the pressure light on first at a few specific stops, then sometimes under 1200 rpm, I checked it with a mechanical gauge and it didn't drop below 20 psi even when it was 110 degrees out and the engine up to full temp (I replaced the sender and that fixed it for me).

TL:DR it could easily be the oil pressure sender which is pretty cheap and easy to replace in the 3.5, but replace it because it might be something more sinister. My 2012 Fusion Sport has the 3.5, and I ran into a similar situation. My oil pressure light would come on at a very specific intersection only. I also noticed a small oil leak (I removed the under engine pan or cover or splash shield) and noticed drops on the ground. I just let the light come on and the small oil leak until I drove it very aggressively (stop light, Focus ST in the lane next to me, that lane ends in 1/8 of a mile, and people wait until the very end to merge and it gets ugly, so I don't give them the chance). My minor oil leak became a large one, and my oil light would come on if the engine was under 1400 RPM. I had the pressure sender but was waiting for an oil change, so...it forced my hand. I swapped the oil pressure sender and both the oil leak was gone, and the light no longer comes on at weird but understandable times.

The fob does the following: button presses to lock/unlock, does that work? proximity lock unlock (hand behind handle to unlock), does that work? once in the cabin sensed and allows starting (this doesn't work) If it is just the inside proximity and it saying key not found unless you use the emergency backup slot, and TPMS doesn't work, I do think that module you link to does both inside the vehicle. This thread shows the RTM location on a 2018. The module is different year to year, but probably in the same location.

I don't think the Edge got it until 2019. The 2018 Brochure mentions FordPass app but only to use to find gas stations, not actually connect to the car. But I own a 2019 and haven't owned an earlier SYNC 3 Edge. My 2017 Escape had it, but didn't have it for 2016 when SYNC 3 was introduced in that vehicle.

Great news! Glad you came back and documented the success, some very awesome resources available here for sure, and end result helps out just as much. Adaptive cruise really is nice on those 10-12 hour drives, even more so on my 2019 with stop and go and lane centering. I don't pay less attention driving, but it help me focus a little less, and helps correct some of my bad behaviors, like running too close to a slower vehicle ahead of me. I will change lanes sooner so it doesn't put on the whoa and slow me down a lot, but if it does I don't over react and force my way into the other lane.