dabangsta

After finally needing to use my jump box for my own emergency purposes (on another vehicle that is more mechanical than electronic as far as access), I am trying to plan for the best place in my 2019 SEL to keep one. I want to store it under the cargo area, towards the front. I can open the drivers door with the emergency key, reach back and double pull the rear drivers side door to open it without power, right? Then use the manual lever to drop the seat back, then lift up the front of the cargo floor. I have a super amount of emergency related stuff around the spare already, I need to 3d print some more holders and sections so it doesn't rattle, squeak, or make the floor not sit level. The jump box would take up nearly all of the pitiful center console space, probably too large in a dimension to fit in the really small glove box along side the owners manual, and won't even fit in that useless cubby in front of the center console (yes, sour grapes, all the storage areas on this as so small, compared to even what it replaced, a 2017 Escape). Under the hood I am not sure I can find a decent place that doesn't get super hot, and I live where 90+ days a year it is 100+, and just enough rain that it would need to be protected from that splashing up.

Sorry for posting anything confusing. Starting in 2022 all Edge as AWD, FWD was deleted I have a 2019 SEL FWD and it has the smaller rotors (front and rear). All non ST AWD vehicles have the larger front rotors, the same size as the ST, but a different configuration (345mm diameter inverted hat rotor and larger piston calipers by 4mm each piston). I could see where different calipers on the ST/ST-Line even without the performance brake kit could require the larger diameter spare tire wheel.

Is the caliper that much larger on the ST (specifically the ST Performance Brake) setup? The AWD has the larger 345mm rotor, and the performance brake setup is same diameter rotor just a different configuration (at least for 2019, which is what I looked at). I want to do the AWD larger rotor upgrade on my 2019 FWD soon, I need to check the spare. I tried putting on a 1997 Mark VIII 16 inch spare on the rear and it didn't work, it hit the caliper (and it is so very tiny compared to the road wheel and tire, and the temp spare, I didn't expect to drive on it, just get it on the ground). I suspect I might need to update my 17 inch temp spare to an 18 if I do the brake upgrade.

Welcome! Other than keeping up with maintenance and tires and brakes, driving style is about the only thing that can be done to help with fuel mileage. Anticipating better, not going to a throttle position or RPM that puts you in boost and increased fuel is the best way, and easing off sooner and using less brakes also helps. I find I hurt my overall fuel mileage the most getting on the interstate, one spirited run to get on the interstate can drop my average for a tank 1 mpg, which means 16 less miles that tank. Obviously there are times that you have to be semi aggressive and I would never try to merge on some tight on ramps without getting up to speed quickly, but sometimes I will alter my route to get a better on ramp that doesn't require a quick entrance, for example. The city loop/drive cycle used to calculate the EPA rating does include quite a few 20 second idle periods, 18 times 0 to 25 to 30 mph and one up to 55, with pretty aggressive starts and stops, so how your driving environment differs from that could affect how close you get. it is 23 minutes with an average of 19.59 mph over 7.45 miles. I have played around with resetting the vehicles trip as it also gathers that information (time, distance, and average speed) to see why my wife doesn't get the 22 mpg average we should around town. This the dyno map that Ford uses to calculate the rating for the EPA: The Highway rating, if they don't include higher speed schedule, it never goes above 60 mph, and I usually cruise at 79-81 so only in optimal situations will I beat it (I can, just not very often).

Yes, my vehicles generally only have idle and WOT. But that is just the way I drive. The throttle plate really never fully closes, and the actuator controls the idle speed. I don't see how fiddling with the throttle stop would do anything but cause an uncontrollable too high idle or the throttle blade to close to tight that the electronic actuator cannot open it. I am not even real sure that is an actual mechanical stop, that bolt that goes into the actuator.

Throttle body does not have an idle adjustment! It is a stop, and if it is improperly adjusted, could result in the throttle blade either not able to open, or not able close. I wouldn't touch it. The idle is completely controlled by the PCM and metered air. It doesn't make sense that the idle would be lower for a tow package equipped vehicle. 9 mpg is really bad. The EPA rating for FWD is 16 city, 24 highway, 19 combined. AWD is 15 city, 22 highway, 18 combined. My AWD 3.5 powered vehicle gets driven hard and on surface streets only (1 mile at 65 mph) and I get within 1 mpg of the EPA rating for it (which is 18 mpg city, it is a 2012 Fusion Sport AWD). Every stop light is like a 1/4 drag (up to the speed limit of course), I don't coast very often, I manually hold lower gears so I frequently am cruising at 3500-4500 rpm. I might not do as many very short (3-4 miles) trips, most are 15-25 or more, I don't idle after startup waiting for the AC to cool it off, I just go.

For our 21mm capped lugs, they sell a variety of half mm sizes, like 21.5mm/22mm/22.5mm (if the cap is still on but distorted), and 18.5mm I think fits if the cap is completely off. In my environment I should be just fine with these capped lug nuts (my 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII has them) with basically unlimited ability to easily remove them and install them. Until either a LOF "tech" does a NASCAR pitstop style rotation, can't be bothered to fully engage the lug, or has a crappy socket, and they they are screwed. I got 9 tire rotations out of the QuickLane (LOF side of Ford dealerships) with no problems, lugs in perfect condition and the OEM lug wrench worked fine. Get tires at Costco and they fully chewed up 5 lugs, another 10 were basically garbage and I needed 19.5mm to get them off (2017 Escape smaller lug hex), so I always get solid lugs and replace them when it is easy and convenient, not with a flat at 2 am in the rain on a dirt road.

I have 4 Ford I connect my phone to, and I always rename the SYNC item on my phones list of Bluetooth items to the vehicle name for the times I need to actually initiate a connection (mostly my older SYNC 1 and 1.1 cars). I have to do the same with the OBD-II adapters (I have some specialty ones, ones that work better with Ford, some with Toyota, etc so one doesn't really cut it).

What version of the software do you have? There was a new release within the last week that seems to fix some related issues. I had rev 22251 and I was in denial about other people posting about the screen going black but still playing last input. But it eventually happened to me numerous times. I did the "soft reset" (which is pressing seek up (=>) and power at the same time) until it reset. That fixed it, but it would happen again within a day or 2, sometimes in the same drive cycle. I checked the OTA updates and didn't show one, but the Ford support page did (23188) and I did the update via a USB drive and so far no black screens again. Some other users think that the black screen was related to temperature, I didn't see it when ambient temps were in the 110's and interior temps in excess of 140 degrees, but a bit later when it cooled off to around 100.

I have SYNC 1 in my 2012 Fusion, and SYNC 1.1 in my 2015 Fusion (should be the same as yours). I had to be sure they were both updated to a mid level like version 4.4 (not the latest, as it disables specific functionality I use, the mic for Hey Google/Siri and commands on the phone), but I still have to either pull the fuse for SYNC (not easy on either Fusion), or pull the battery for a few minutes, then SYNC works like it should for 4-6 months or so. Sometimes it slightly glitches and can be cured with turning off the car, opening a door, and starting again.

There are various SSM and CSPs for 2017-2022 vehicles and deep sleep message when: the battery voltage is above 9.5v SOC is above 50% it hasn't sat for 14 days no TCU update received OTA (all of the above items mean it should not go into deep sleep, and a BMS reset then diagnostics should be ran if the battery tests out) My parents 2020 Explorer suffered through that, and the dealer was oblivious to any of the SSMs for it. I am not clear on if they had issues with auto start/stop or not. Did the dealer actually test the CCA of the battery or possibly just a quick voltage test? Seems early for a battery to have gone flat, but when I let my battery in my 2017 Escape get down to 200 CCA (it was a 760 CCA AGM battery), it wouldn't do auto start/stop (always the grey A with the slash), it would go into deep sleep overnight, and I couldn't listen the radio in accessory mode (which the equivalent to that in your 22 Edge might not be the same).

Weird that the 2021 ST doesn't have wireless charger (unless it is a 401A "high package" vehicle) with the ST-Line having it standard (and Titanium). No real loss, I want to unplug mine so I don't need the little mat I printed, or put phones in face down. My 2019 has a door over it, and if I do wireless charging and close the lid within 10-15 minutes I see that my phone is no longer charging. With it open I get about an hour before it over heats.

Crazy that a Type C->12v accessory->60w PD power adapter->QI pad charges better than the built in pad. I had to really noodle on that setup. Especially when that type c to 12v only supports 1amp, and that 60w adapter would be 5 amps draw. I do agree the wireless pad in the vehicle is poorly done. I have a 2019 so no wireless AA so I have to plug in anyways, but I want to store my phone in the console. If I do it face up then it tries to wirelessly charge but it just makes my phone hot and stop charging at all. If I just do bluetooth and not wired connection, pretty much the same thing happens. It won't charge faster than it is used, even with the screen off. If I put my phone in there face down or on top of a mat I printed, it does fine. My phone barely fits next to the USB ports on the charging mat, I have no side to side and only .25 inches on the bottom (I use a 90 degree type c connector). If nothing else that type c to 12v power point is cool, I have a lot of type c chargers that put out up to 180 watts and that would be useful, but a bit out of my price range for a gadget.

Personally I wouldn't subject myself to 15 year old technology if I was expecting more than FM radio or streaming. Last maps are from 2015 for that setup (same one in a 2010 MKZ I test drove). While I am personally fine with my SYNC 1 version in my 2012 Fusion (it just streams, there is no display other than VFD that shows the song name) as I have a phone mount on the dash, so I get up to date navigation, music streaming, etc. But when I drive my 2019 SEL with SYNC 3 I wish I had a touch screen setup in the dash. Since it is a double-din opening, I would go aftermarket with something that supports Android Auto/Apple Carplay.

Lots of decontenting happened, and weird combos and things added one year to lower models, then removed for all models. You also lost the SecuriCode keypad on the drivers door B pillar and the CD player (which I am glad my 2019 SEL doesn't have, but the TI still had it).

Or it was lost or (not saying this is your situation) some buy here, pay here high interest rate sketchy dealers will hold on to one (and also possibly add a GPS tracker). My 2019 had one key when I looked at it on the lot (a Ford dealership in a small town 50 miles from major population centers, with the "no city sales tax" perk that is only 1%...). The sale was contingent on the vehicle coming with 2 fobs, and 2 cut emergency keys in the fobs. I also requested that they reset it to only have the 2 that it came with, but they didn't do that, so it has 4 admin keys, which is the max, and there is no DIY way to remove any. If (and I do) want to add a third one (start out with MyKey for my new driver) The dealer charges at least 2 hours labor, so almost $300 to get all keys removed, and the 2 I have added back. I wish I would have paid better attention!

Hopefully it is programmed as a new fob and not a clone, but you can now follow the process to get the securecode door keypad code hopefully (the process is on pages 64/65 in your manual), basically you put the key in the emergency slot in the center console and while not pressing the brake press the start button, a few second later press it again and swap to the second key and press start again, and it will show in the cluster. Any errors like a door open may make it not show (so make sure all the doors are closed).

I don't really deal with hills, but when you posted the original post, I tried some (2019 SEL w hill start assist since all trim levels have it) hills in reverse, letting off the brake for a bit before touching the gas, giving it various amounts of throttle, going past the 3 seconds or so it says it will hold, and never replicated it.

Not sure what year or model you have, but while they did go away on the SEL and ST-Line in 2021, but the Titanium and ST still have them, if you are referring the ones on the front of the mirror and not the ones in the mirror (which I don't think they ever had). I rarely need the paper owners manual, but when I do, it is handy. I tried the owners manual using the SYNC 4 screen and it was okay, but not as handy as the PDF and searching, the HTML version is hard to navigate passed a certain number of pages or continue on without going back to the index.

Actually a lot to unpack in that one small post. It is possible to add the OEM remote start to your vehicle. It is documented here: It is a little more complex (well, expensive) for you with only one fob. I don't know the best way to proceed since you need 2 new fobs (with the remote start button and the different frequency) but you can't program them yourself since it requires 2 existing ones. Having 2 fobs makes getting the securcode keypad code easy.

The basic door shell should be the same. The lower moulding might be different depending on the year and other options like Elite, same with the upper belt moulding, and some of the interior bits and electronics. They seem the same for the generation that has Titanium (2015+). Each year might have a different paint color, interior panel color and trim treatment.

Welcome! Nice looking ride!

I would say that most places $150 and up is what the going rate is. Many simple diagnostics are over $200 just due to that 1 hour of labor. Add in a machine and something that takes wait time (but you have to time it right) and it is down right insane.

I think you might find that 65,000 miles is not that many for brakes, unless severe duty. Your 2020 had EPB (Electronic Park Brake), and you need to put the rear brakes into service mode (the park brake motor retracts) and put back into regular mode when done. It is easy to do and find how to do it. You might also find the rears wear faster. I would check them for even wear and how much pad is left at all corners before just replacing them because of miles. I think that slotted and drilled rotors on a street vehicle is for looks only. I think that the slotting wears pads faster than you might expect (that is what they are for), and drilled tend to crack. Having said that, I always put them on my vehicles that I drive, along with aggressive pads. I think I have the Powerstop Z23 kit on my 2012 Fusion (slotted and drilled rotors, and pads) and I go through pads every 20k miles...but I am very hard on brakes and cars in general (but still had 3-4mm pads left on my 2017 Escape at 96,000 miles). I wouldn't put them on my daily driver that gets 15-20k miles a year (my 2019 Edge SEL).

Welcome! There are some great resources on this board, both in already posted questions and answers, tech articles for fixes, modifications, and issues, and if you post a question with enough details (year, trim level, engine, what is happening, what you have tried so far, etc) then you will have the best chance and getting relavent information. If you are going to be active, it is best to post your vehicle specs to a signature (the details under your user name, if filled out, do not show up in your posts unfortunately).