dabangsta

Heated steering wheel was optional on the ST (for 2020), part of the cold weather package (with all weather floor mats and windshield wiper de-icer). Heated steering wheel is only standard on the Titanium. I got one to add paddle shifters on my FWD 2019 SEL, I might add the controller for the steering wheel, I live in the desert but those 40 degree mornings the heated seats are nice. 2021 changed that and it was included with 401a as the other poster states.

Is the coolant tank empty? I don't think there is enough coolant to hydrolock it, or if the water pump went out it could fill the crankcase fast enough, but if the coolant did leak into the crank case, if not caught immediately, it will wipe out things like bearings, maybe failing in a way similar to a hydrolock. Usually that bends things rods and causes block issues, usually not enough left of functional stuff to make it fixable, a new/old engine is needed.

That is the vent and one method to use to fill it (you can also pump it in using the sight level hole). There is no dipstick. There should be some posts on doing the fluid change on the 8F50/8F57, it is similar to the 8F35 that the 2.0 powered 2019 and newer vehicles got.

It is of the more less frequent failure modes for the 3.5, but it can happen. Usually they leak through a couple of ports to the ground and you can at least replace the water pump before it fails in a way that fills the crankcase full of coolant. Did you check the oil to see if it had coolant in it (milk shake instead of oil)? The cost of labor for the replacement of just the water pump (and timing gear since most of the labor gets you there) is pretty costly.

When it is that hot (I live in Tucson) it won't stop. But when it is 85 degrees and the sun is beating down in through the windshield and it is blowing warm air, it gets annoying. There is a list of things that are required for it to actually stop. Ambient Temperature of moderate is all it says, and also cabin temperature is checked if it is sufficiently cooled (or heated). Defroster on will disable it, and coolant needs to be up to temp (which happens in 1 minute or less year around here).

The starter is significantly different between a auto start/stop equipped vehicle and one without it. It seems like the non auto start/stop is higher rated (1.6kw) but physically they look a lot different. I don't know if there is more/less gear reduction, it is rated lower but is built to handle the 10x times it will be used. Most non auto start/stop vehicles don't have AGM batteries (look at some year Fusions when the 2.0 was available with or without auto start/stop, like 2017). On my 2017 Escape I could start to detect a sound difference when it would restart, but it never felt like it wouldn't restart, that was only up to 100,000 miles, as it was totaled. It is much more seamless in my 2019 Edge with only 80,000 miles on it now. I know it is happening, but no shake or noise happens. I don't really like it because in my environment the cabin gets too warm too quickly with the engine off, the angle of the steering wheel needs to be extreme to not shut off (making a left turn at an unprotected turn lane through traffic), and that .2 seconds the driver next to has at taking off from a light means I might lose (not really...I anticipate the green light watching the cross light and let off the brake right before it goes green!).

Resetting the BMS with an old battery is not what you should do. That tricks it into thinking that is the new full battery, and if it would continue auto start/stop eventually it won't restart. You do not need to bypass the BMS when charging or jump starting, use the post on the shock tower for the negative cable. I let my 2017 Escape battery go from 450 CCA (auto start/stop disabled at that point) to 225 CCA, it still started fine (but no auto start/stop), but I couldn't listen the radio with the engine off. I carried a jump box with me, but I replaced it once another driver started driving it again and we went on a long trip. Auto start/stop didn't start working with new battery until BMS reset, but I could listen to music without it turning off immediately.

They are all LED, and if on for 8 hours a day every day, should last 20 years or more. They never bothered to update the owners manual (still shows it taking a 9005 high beam and h11 low beam light), but I don't think anything but maybe the license plate light is a replaceable bulb.

With the back seats folded down, 74 inches is the length (I need to do some 72 inch tables, they fit) to the back of the console, so if this is a folding bed frame and not very wide, you can put them between the seats up on the console well padded and held down and be careful on hitting your elbow on the end of them. Some years and models and packages have fold flat front passenger seat (like the 2010 SEL, Limited, Sport). You can search for "xxxx ford edge tech specs pdf" (xxxx being the year) and find the official Ford specs for most years, or close year, like for my 2019 https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North America/US/product/2019/edge/2019-edge.pdf it is a handy reference document.

If the halogen housings, low beam is a projector lens, and high beam is bare bulb in reflector housing. The "chrome caps" are generally only over low beam reflector housings to shape the light and reduce glare. If yours had these, and you yanked them, then you would have 2 high beam lights. My daily driver has projector beams with H11 bulbs, and only when the wiring was burnt and 1/4 power was going to the bulb did I have issues with the light output, but I grew up driving cars before even sealed beam candle output lights. I would kill to have the LEDs in my 2019 replaced with a projector style with H11s, they are annoying to me as a driver and to all oncoming traffic if I have more than 100 pounds in the cargo area.

I haven't yet replaced the battery in my 2019 Edge, but when I did in my 2017 Escape (that I let the battery get down to 225 CCA and auto start/stop was disabled, and I couldn't sit and listen to the radio) those steps worked (auto start/stop was still disabled until I did it), but they didn't for my 2015 Fusion. I don't think the alternate method (that seems to be UK related due to the nomenclature for options) did either. I am pretty sure I finally used Forscan to do it.

My 2019 was missing the bumper on the drivers side when I bought it. I figured that is why mine flapped a lot with extreme side or from the front winds included with going 80 mph (have hit 50 mph sustained winds for long drives across New Mexico). The one on the hood was not in place, it was lose and sitting in the tray it should contact. But I bought a new hood bumper and tested its fit with those details, and still same thing. I think the slot the bumper sits in is bad, the new bumper falls out, but that should affect it with the hood shut and it properly adjusted.

Are they LED lights? Is it the factory towing or added on hitch and wiring? Are the lights at full intensity when the car is off, or are the very dim? I have had this issue with LED things and current bleed, where the controller has a tiny bit of current to sense and that is enough to dimly light LEDs. At night they look brighter than you would think, during the day sometimes not even able to tell.

I found my previous vehicle finicky with Apple products and cables (it was a Ford Escape, same SYNC system as your Edge). I found that they tended to break near the ends or become intermittent. Even pricy Apple ones, so I once I found ones I liked for cheap from China, I ordered a few. I get them with the 90 degree ends, and most of them are short so the phone goes into the cubby (screen side down since I have wireless charging which makes the phones overheat). I would try another cable first, maybe the other port if you have 2 of the same.

Overall I wish mine didn't have it. In theory it is nice, having arms full of stuff to put in the cargo area, swipe of the a foot and it opens for you. Realistically I never get it right the first 5 attempts. I get my dog on the leash and out of the carrier in the cargo area, they get on the ground, walk under the bumper and it closes. I am hosing it off and it opens while it is wet and I have a hose pointed at it.

Lots of people swear they need to do the transmission fluid changes every 30/40k miles (about 60,000km) with the 6F35 (yours has the 6F50 I think). On my vehicle with the 6F35 I did it at 60,000 miles and 85,000 miles as it is not shifting very well. I am sure your environment is even hotter than mine (I was stationed in Kuwait and Saudi Arabia, but I live in the American Desert and we frequently hit 115 degrees) so it might be warranted. I would not say it is too late to do it, and frequently at 240,000km the dealers won't change the fluid.

I agree, you probably have 95% of the hardware needed, and the software (I think you need revision 2.2 or higher) to support Android Auto and with a new USB hub/ports Apple CarPlay wired. I think there is some confusion with both the far away image of the center stack and the custom image shown on the far away picture. 2016 was the first year for the Edge (and quite a few other Fords) for SYNC 3. While the 2.2 and 3.0 version of the software that Ford distributes for your year, many install the latest 3.4 using a side way to install it. 3.4 is much more responsive than the 3.0 it maxes out on.

It does sound like actuators are worn out, unfortunately they are a latch/actuator package, so a bit more involved to replace and more expensive. I would verify the wiring connector on the drivers door, it the connector to the door module or the master switch are questionable might be low power going to them, I assume same happens from the interior door lock/unlock (electronic).

Don't do it. Any with the 2.0 are not flat or dolly towable. The 2.7 can be flat 4 towed, I don't know if that includes dolly or not, but I don't think it does. Download the owners manual for it, but best is all four on a trailer.

I am surprised you were able to get 3.4 on your 2017 Escape from Ford, and not using the Cyanlabs updater. Also 2017 didn't have SEL, so it must be a 2018? Should be able to use the same USB drive updater on both.

Depends on the year, but you use most of the words from this TSB (buck, jerk): https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203649-0001.pdf It is 1 hour labor to read the strategy and flash the PCM if you are not covered by the factory warranty or extended warranty.

Do you have an issues, like key in ignition chime never works or it doesn't stop when you remove the key with the door open, intermittent or never tries to start when you turn the key? Usually it needs a replacement Ignition Switch (not the lock cylinder).

Glad you got it sorted, too bad it wasn't something like a disconnected connector or a reset, but it was the part you bought and replaced. I wouldn't survive 10 minutes without tunes.

I think that 2011-2012 that it was pull, not push. You pull it back far enough for it to "click" for high beams, or only slightly for "flash to pass". Weird that it isn't the normal, and not what previous or since Edge's or most Fords work. If you have a wall on front of you, this is low beam (note the cut off line, I also have the fog lights on...and this is a different vehicle but has halogen projectors and not bi-halogen that is why the cut off remains for the high beams): and high beams have a much bigger hot spot:

Welcome! After 15 months and 18,000 miles I still focus too much on the raised fenders (like this is a pre runner or something) and hate the water puddling dip in the hood. I noticed it switching between a 2012, 2017, and 2019 when I was test driving them. I wish I had the memory settings in my SEL, as I am 5'11" and my wife is 4'10" and I have to stand outside of the car moving the seat back enough to get in. But every previous car I have had that had memory and ease of access the first gadget to die has been the front/back action of the drivers seat, even if we switched the same amount in the other cars, which was weird.