dabangsta

While the tips are in shadows, they look to be burning correctly, the tips worn round, and the end of the ground strap eroded, so certainly time to get it done. I did mine earlier just to get it done during a good time to work, between long drives, weather cooperating, etc. I did mine at 82k, a little erosion on the ground strap, but the precious metal tip was still square, could have gone much much longer, but for how cheap it was to do, if I pull them I replace them.

I had to upgrade my 17 inch spare to 18 inch (I have FWD and upgraded the front rotors to the larger ones), and I found a lot of never been out of the vehicle spares from 2 or 3 year old vehicles. Mine was out of an MKX, and it had never been mounted or out of the cargo area. Even though it is 4 years old, since it isn't hit with UV rays, it should be fine (I have the original 1989 spare in my Cougar that I put on my Escape to get it to the tire shop). I was wanting an 18 or 19 inch aluminum rim with the T rated spare tire, but apparently sellers think they are gold plated, not worth the extra cost for a lighter combo. Also a lot of the ones for sale were the "kit", wheel and tire, jack and lug wrench, attaching bolt and holder. Just be sure it is an 18 inch one since you have AWD. Ford could sell you the rim only, and you can get a temp rated tire elsewhere if you want new, but unlike some other vehicles, they don't seem to sell the kit, that was optional on all trim levels for 2022.

I went with the Sumitomo HTR A/S P03 for my 2019 SEL (18 inch wheels). As much price point as Tirerack reviews. A couple others had rebates that would make them cheaper. 90% of its duty is driving 6 miles to work twice a day, in a high ambient temperature location, by a non performance oriented driver. 10% of the time it is on 400-1000 mile vacation drives around the desert and up to the mountains, sometimes during winter time. These are treadwear 640, traction and temp A rated, 65,000 mile warranty. They were built 16 months ago (0624 date). They are asymmetrical so I can cross rotate them. Made in Japan. m&s rated, UHP All Season (I tend to run UHP Summer), probably not as quiet as more touring rated tires. I got 53,000 miles out of the Edge A/S tires (rated at 55,000) in 2 years and 5 months (average 1800 miles a month), the tire shop asked me if I wanted to keep them (which they probably had more tread than imagined, even measuring them with a gauge), but they were noisy, prone to hydroplaning, and never really good tires, even new. I will update it once I get some interstate miles on them this weekend, and some around town more spirited driving.

It does need to be level when you are checking the fluid! Lift it to drain it and put back in the drain plug, drop it down on all 4 tires so it is level, fill with a close amount to how much you drained out, start it up and pull the sight plug add until it dribbles out. hook up everything and drive it if you need to to get it up to temp (I was able to just let it idle). The sight plug should be accessible with turning the front wheels (my Fusion with the 6F35 I had to measure the height of the wheel well, jack it up and remove the wheel/tire, and drop it down until it was level).

There are so many variations depending on your environment, driving style, miles driven a year, expectations. Personally I am after: middle range mileage expectation (40-50k, vehicle gets 10-20 punctures a year, 2 tires they won't repair again) summer UHP A/S UHP (desert, with minimal rain, no snow) UTQG temperature rating of A (high ambient temps, high speed extended drives in high temps) soft enough to not squeal/squeak at moderate throttle off the line across painted lines quiet (my 2019 is a tin can, not even the wool fender liners get rid of road noise) reasonable performance (it isn't a sports car, but it needs to handle some spirited cornering and braking) optionally a dope looking symmetrical tread price point (rebate of some sort is a bonus) I am looking at Sumitomo HTR A/S P03 or Toyo Proxes ST III My current tires have 51,000 miles on them, generally at 3 to 4/64s left (barely more than the wear bar). The dealership had them installed before I bought it, Kelly Edge A/S (55k tread life warranty), and I don't recommend.

Proximity lock/unlock on years that have it at all 4 doors appear to have it stop working for all doors but the drivers front door. It seems like maybe it is related to battery health. For me it seems to stop working when the vehicle is sitting, and frequently opened and closed and locked and unlocked (like unloading at public parking lot that is far away from where you taking things to, so unlock, grabs some stuff, close and lock it, then make multiple return trips like this). I am in the same boat, no other indications of a weak battery, so no reason for me to change it yet (car battery, not battery in fob I don't think, equally affects both fobs at the same time).

90% of the time I lock or unlock my 2019 from the rear door proximity/handle touch. As a few others have reported, eventually the rear doors stop working (and passenger front), I can't follow the pattern, but it is annoying (other suspect it might be related to battery SoC/health). Generally the first and last place I access is the back seat. To get my stuff I put on the rear passenger area floor, assist toddlers or elders from the back seat, or on my way to or from the cargo area.

Do you have the Check Engine Light on? The 2019 has a redesigned block and engine compared to the one that exhibits coolant intrusion. It could be related to the EGR cooler. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10177867-0001.pdf

AWD has larger brakes that require an 18 inch wheel. But yes, the same model tire with the same overall dimensions seem to be around $50 less for a 17 than for an 18 inch wheel (about 25% cheaper, like from $240 to $190). If you feel you need to replace the rims anyways (financially also needing to buy rims that are smaller would add up to more than just tires) then might be worth it. Cheaper tires, more selection, more sidewall for a better ride and better handling of curb hopping/hitting and potholes, all good reasons go with a smaller rim.

Are these aftermarket 21 inch wheels (as 2011 has 17, 18, 20, 22)? If it is FWD you probably can go down to a 17 inch wheel and taller tire, AWD the smallest you can run would be 18. Smaller wheel, taller sidewall for more protection on curbs and pot holes. I would probably go with an 18 inch even if FWD, but most of the AT tires are available in both P235/65R17 and P245/60R18 (and the 17 inch wheel options are much cheaper for the same tire). The Goodyear Assurance Weatherready2 are highly rated (I put these on my FWD Fusion that lives in Denver for snow, not dirt/gravel roads or off roading), less AT and more snow rated, the Firestone Destination AT2 is more offroad all terrain oriented.

Unlike most of my past vehicles, I have never given it much thought. I think it is the same as my 2012 Fusion, an O-ring on the flat that contacts the pan. I did 60 oil changes on my previous car (a 2000 Grand Marquis, with 330,000 miles) with the same drain plug, I never swapped it or the O-ring. I am only at 150,000 on my Fusion (Sport, with the 3.5), and I also go closer to 10,000 miles (so far fewer oil changes), but I haven't seen any weeping or leaks from it either. Dorman and other aftermarket companies sell similar plugs for $1 - $3, some generic ones with harder plastic gaskets. There also seem to be replacement gaskets for about the same price.

That is the 8F57 specs (full plus 1 quart), the 8F35 is just fill to the bottom of the sight plug.

As mentioned, it depends on the year. 2019+ has a disconnect in the PTU.

Should go away. Mine are growly if only my wife drives it for any amount of time (2-3 weeks). She is not an aggressive braker and once I drive it once there is no hint of noise for a few weeks. It took me quite a while to get rid of the machine marks on the rotors, maybe 1000 miles? She is the primary daily driver of it. I drive it occasionally during the week, but I am the long distance vacation driver. I went with the same rotors but a less aggressive pad.

Lincoln MKX and Nautilus are on the same platform as the Edge (Nautilus 2024 and newer is on a new platform built in China). MKC and Corsair are on the Escape platform.

Now or at some point in the past this vehicle likely had an amp and sub woofer in the "trunk", that is low gauge wiring for the amplifier, that clear plastic part is a fuse.

Weird, I doubt it checks the turn signal position in remote start, that is the only time I have seen one side off.

You mention during remote start, is it only then, or have you checked? I am not sure how the high level adaptive lights behave, my mid level (not adaptive, but with signature lighting) both sides come on always and when remote started (it is usually in the shade or at night, so I get my fog lights and amber marker lights on the side, might be due to switch setting and light sensor?).

Did you find a source that wasn't $10-15 in shipping? I bought mine from China as the cheapest I could find, but it was in the territory of buying a Dongar adapter, but I would rather DIY. What sized crimpers did you use? I have 5 sets of these but all my pin crimpers are either too small (the 2.54 Dupont sized, or the next size up), or too large.

Does it "work" if you put it into the emergency slot in the center console and press the Start button? Work meaning still recognized as a programmed key chip but not for proximity or remote entry?

Normal operating conditions? 150,000 miles(!?!?!?!?!) Towing, using a car top carrier, extensive idling, low speed driving, sandy or dusty conditions? every 30,000 miles

All I have ever found was a specialized screw driver bit that was broken in half, under the carpet of an older Ford. https://fordauthority.com/2025/07/assembly-workers-wallet-found-inside-2015-ford-edge-after-11-years-video/amp/

Battery change is only the small back, it doesn't split it in half to expose the circuit board. Is it enough to dump alcohol in and then let it dry? Probably.

Is it still detected if you place it in the emergency backup slot and try to start the vehicle (if it isn't detected if just inside the cabin)? If it is, I personally would buy a used OEM fob off eBay to replace it. You need to make sure you get the right one (remote start or not), and make sure you already don't have 4 keys programmed in. I picked up an OEM fob for $30 off eBay, but unfortunately the previous owner lost 2 keys, so it has 4 programmed in already, so I can't simply add one. There are replacement cases for them, but I can't tell if you can non destructively pull the case apart or not, it seems sonic welded but I don't have one to sacrifice to test it. I only find videos for other keys, mostly because they are more likely to be broken than these.

Thanks, I updated it because I was wrong. 2016 might require a USB hub update to work with CarPlay (had to swap it on a 2016 Escape, but not a 2017).