dabangsta

It can be completely DIY, you can gather up the APIM and screen, the face plate (with the heated seats buttons), install them yourself, program them yourself (using Forscan). As far as the heated seats, not sure what all would be required besides the seats.

It isn't the PCM taking out the coils, it is the plugs and/or coils that destroy the drivers on the PCM. If the plugs are worn out, if a coil fails in certain ways, it destroys the driver circuit on the board. There are companies such as circuitboardmedics that take in your PCM and fix them for $300 + 425 for 6 coils and spark plugs (which extends the warranty period on the PCM). Not cheap, but not $2450.

missed quoting specific post replying to, but I can't delete this.

The second part of that humanized here is a cookie you did it conversion of small steps in the owners manual is the using the learning mode from the openers motor and not the remote. I had success using that method without access to the garage door remote.

Or step 3. It is the current functionality for some reason, and a loss of functionality for some reason. I found that location while vehicle was in motion was the most useful part of FordPass. Now I don't know when my wife is 1 hour away and I need to clean up the house and hide the beer bottles and microwave meal trays.

On my 2019 Edge SEL I can get to the sight plug with it on the ground on all four tires. I think I turned the wheel one way to help, that didn't seem to change the levelness. With my 2015 Fusion I measure the top of the wheel well, pull the wheel/tire, and just leave it on the jack to that level but with the following...I already have the plug out with it higher on a jack stand, then I drop it on the jack only to the measured height, once it is up to temp and properly filled, I jack it back up and put it on a stand and then insert the plug.

And we used to use whale oil. If you have to use 50 weight or even 20w50 oil in a modern engine not on the surface of the sun (or the Middle East) it probably shouldn't be run. Can't be too stuck in the past. When Ford back specced 5w20 to many cars that used 5w30, I started using it. I didn't have excessive consumption at 300,000 miles, it didn't leak, it didn't do anything it wasn't supposed to. I did go back to 5w30 because it was easier to find and I got such inconsistent fuel mileage due to no set driving pattern I couldn't say if it helped that or not. It was never noisy, never sounded like a sewing machine, no rattle at cold start, no puff of smoke after sitting. I would dig into the excessive consumption, probably on the right path with the PCV.

The dealer would only be installing the hitch and lighting adapter, and your published tow limit is 1500 pounds. You say getting "Factory Install" in your title but you would be getting a dealer install of some OEM parts like the hitch and light wiring adapter, but it isn't the tow package, which in addition to sway control also has better/different cooling (at least the radiator fans and controller). The swap control is what increases the towing limit, it has to pass certain tests before it can be rated, time to speed from stop, time to stop from a speed, and handling when stopping, which the sway control does.

2/32 - 3/32 difference should be okay. Anything more you might end up with AWD disabled. Tirerack and other places will shave a new tire to match the existing ones, but not all places can.

I wasn't willing to pay $40+ for this, so I found the connectors and made my own for much less, without messing with the wiring in my vehicle (old me would have used t-taps). Dongar shows 2021+ and SEL or higher (with auto dimming mirror, but all models have it starting in 2019). So this connector under (well, over) the plastic cover in front of the rear view mirror is 6 pins on yours?

In my state OBD-II (1996 and newer) is plugged in and uses onboard diagnostics for pass/fail. Only older vehicles are put on a dyno and tailpipe sniffed. If it isn't throwing a code, and isn't showing too many tests not completed, then it passes. Legend has it that CA has sniffers along roads and can fail cars? I don't know if I believe that or not.

I remember the questions on how a PCM update could affect coolant intrusion on the 1.5 in the Escape, and many didn't get it done. Fast forward to them getting coolant intrusion and not being eligible for the one time block replacement because they didn't get the PCM update (it was speculated that they were going to lower the boost and other things). I guess that SSM had more details, that it kept the electric coolant pump going longer after shut down, but still I made sure I got it done. I guess this one and caring if emissions output is worse than it should be matters.

Without the factory tow package, your vehicle can pull a max of 1500 pounds. The smallest enclosed UHaul trailer is 850 pounds (4x8) so that means 650 pounds properly packed cargo (so that you have ~150 pound tongue weight). The smallest 4x7 utility trailer weighs 630 pounds, so 870 pounds load. Dealer installing it doesn't make it have tow package. Looking at the price it is likely the hitch that requires trimming of the rear fascia, but it also won't hang down lower than the bumper for a cleaner look. I don't think any aftermarket ones do that. Seems pricy to me, but I would do the work myself (I haven't installed a hitch yet on my 2019, but I have installed them on my Escape and Grand Marquis in the past) and possibly would spring for the through rear fascia one to look a little cleaner. Much cheaper ones are available aftermarket, and saving $750 by going with a different brand and installer seems like a no brainer, They install a lot of hitches, I guess you could get a bad installer, but these are all no drill, drop the fascia and muffler installs, less than an hour.

So just like the owners manual states, it isn't actively steering, it just reduces the effort needed to actually steer if you do that. I am too chicken to try it out, I try to experience all emergency drivers aids like ABS (one side tires in gravel, other side on pavement, for example), and I have felt collision warning pressurizing the brake system (it is great!), but not been in a safe situation to try evasive steering assist, or collision avoidance actively braking for me. I might be getting too many false collision warnings and I might start disregarding them, but so far when they trigger I try to make myself more aware of things close to me, and not further away, like interstate driving. Usually it is a truck and and trailer next to me on a curving road that sets it off, so I anticipate it then.

Not enough information from the OP, as not all models get Evasive Steering Assist (my 2019 has it because it has Co-Pilot360 Assist+ with ACC), but that was is what I suspect, just not that it was triggered for no apparent reason.

I would disconnect the battery again, and either touch the two battery cable ends together (battery is disconnected!) or turn on a high draw item (headlights), or leave them off for 5 minutes, then reconnect it. Your vehicle should have a BMS (Battery Management System) that needs reset. I have not seen a procedure for this on your year Edge (I have done this with my 2017 Escape and 2015 Fusion). I never had any luck with the 8 hours of sitting overnight to reset it (my auto start/stop was still disabled, for example).

There are better threads that had details on the actual alternator replacement, like the following that has the steps. As far as what alternator it should have, if you put in the VIN in the Ford parts site it should tell you specifically which one it needs, so if that said 175 then it is as good as any unless you take out yours and verify it first.

It might be cheaper and easier to go with an MPC or Start-X add on remote start. Cheapest reuses your OEM remote (you press lock, unlock, lock to initiate), and go on up to extended distance 2 way, to add on cellular. They are $150-$300 or more, and generally are easy to install (use t harnesses and no wire cutting, having a hood switch is a variation, as is your current key situation, having 2, not 4, etc).

I haven't had evasive steering assist triggered, but I have had the pre-collision warning and brake pressure reload happen quite a few (50?) times. Usually for good reason, and a few times due to semi trailers next to me on curvy roads, and once or twice with only things like signs or bushes far along side the road. But since it is just a warning and pre pressurizing the brakes (I braked once after it went off and they are primed and ready) and not any active assist, I just understand what is happening when it happens. Adaptive Cruise is so nice. I accidentally disabled lane keeping and lane centering my last 350 mile trip, and didn't really know until I looked at the display and it wasn't the steering wheel and it wasn't the green arrows on dotted lines. It does help with fatigue, I turned it back on for the return trip. I don't expect it to drive for me, and I still steer and position myself in the lane where I want, but for the small lapse in focus and it keeping you where you should be, it is nice. I used to drive with my knees while eating a taco with my head tilted, I think I did a better job than the lane centering.

It is when it parked at night that reflectors are a safety feature. You might not be in it, or you might be, with the lights off. That is why the disclaimer on the site for them, but I don't think the do enough to let people know they are removing a safety feature. They are required, and there is a height limit and regulations on if they can be on a moveable section (trunk lid, liftgate...they can't), that is why you see more CUV/SUVs with them (previous generation it was a strip under the lift gate). I find that many vehicles that move the turn signals or the brake lights (again, probably because they have to be on a stationary section of vehicle that doesn't move like a trunk lid), but they are so disconnected from the tail lights that they appear to be an additional vehicle somehow.

Sorry, yes, I was confused about the 2015-2018 until I found a video on them and tracked down my neighbor to check out theirs, I was going to retract what I said. I guess I would like to find a non signature lighting 2019+ headlight to see what it has, this is my first Ford with signature lighting that isn't always on (it can be turned off with the light switch in the off position), all others no matter what, if the car is in RUN position the signature lighting is on.

Seems like 2015+ that bulb is directional only. 2007-2014 it was a combo park/directional, with park being lower powered than the directional (so it was always on when park/headlights on even when blinking). The directional can be set to be the DRL in Forscan. The LEDs I tried fast blink (the IC only, not the actual bulbs), which was annoying but I might try setting them to DRL to see if they properly blink on turn signal usage.

What model and options for audio do you have? Yes, usually you can take an ACM that matches some requirements (like if you have HD radio, for example), use Forscan to load your As Built data to it (either from saving it from the ACM using Forscan, or downloading it from Ford). I ask the model because the 12 speaker Sony has HD radio (which you might want to be sure you get an ACM with that), and an external amplifier (which is fused on its own, and possibly could be reason no audio?). I think the 9 speaker premium uses the on ACM amplifier, but maybe someone can post the different radio configs wiring and descriptions. K4J from your VIN is an AWD SEL, which could have the standard 6 speaker radio, or the optional 9 speaker "premium" radio (which if you have a group 201a vehicle with SYNC 3, heated seats, leather trimmed front seats you have the 9 speaker system).

You mean in Forscan enable them to be always on until used as a turn signal, then blink? By default I don't think any models have the inner light as a marker/parking light, just the outer, and possibly the signature lighting (LED strip).

Any reason to not suspect the wiring that goes to that specific side, like has been the case with most of the above posters to this thread? I assume that if you find an issue you can temporarily patch it but getting a new one and watching how it is routed seems to be the way to go.