dabangsta

What year and model? Was it a solid hooooooooooooooooooooooonk (like button stuck) or honk-honk-honk-honk (like an alarm/indicator)? Maybe the fuse eventually blew, or the horn, from being on that long. My 2019 had a single horn, and a horn is part of driving where I live, and holding it for about 4 seconds (to let someone know they were changing lanes right into the side me) actually made the horn stop working (I checked the fuse, it was fine).

Someone else posted this recently, so I went and checked mine, and a couple of times I have had the same issue, only drivers door proximity works (I can only lock/unlock using the drivers door touch points). I went through the settings, thinking that it was related to the "Switch Inhibit" but I think that is only interior buttons. I went to the settings, and then tried, and all doors worked. It has happened a couple of times, because I more commonly unlock from the drivers rear door because I put stuff in there before getting in the drivers door. What alerts do you get from the proximity sensors? What does this mean? The Perimeter alarm is door sensors (a door, lift gate, hood) opened without the vehicle being unlocked. I don't think any Edge gets a sensor alarm (movement, glass breaking) like the MKX/Nautilus.

Face up in the cubby to wirelessly charge, or face down because the wireless charger makes your phone overheat. With SYNC 4, there is nothing that can be done on the phone that should be done on the phone while driving. Anything else is for when stopped, and reaching into that cubby is pretty good. Pocket is also a handy place. I don't have Wireless Android Auto in mine, so it has to be plugged in, for around town trips I would love wireless AA and just leave it in my pocket. I might try a current generation dongle for AA/CarPlay.

Is it push button start, or key start (not all Limited have Intelligent Access with push button start)? If the key fully turns in the cylinder enough to lock or unlock it, and it isn't, then it seems like the key cylinder linkage isn't hooked up. I suppose I would first try lubing up the key cylinder and latch with a spray (even WD-40 would help short term and clean it up). Even with vehicles I rarely, if ever open using the key, I still do it once a month (less with my Edge since it has a cover over it that is prone to breaking eventually, but is more protected), and once it starts getting rough I clean them up.

The Edge got a new engine configuration with a new block in MY 2019 (other vehicles got a revised block mid year 2019). The new 2.0 it got has things like an EGR cooler (which was problematic first couple of years, with a leak and TSB), and the block no longer has slits to the head, as you mention, but a round port.

The AC plug in has been handy a couple of times, but it is so limited. It is prone to kicking things plugged in (I have a very short 90 degree plug to move wall warts away so they don't get kicked). My 2019 has a 12v power port there, not the type c ports, but plenty of type c and type a adapters that sit flush in there.

It is standard on your 2023 Titanium, so it has it. Do you have the factory optional towing package or a dealer or aftermarket tow hitch installed? Some people disconnect the sensors because they don't like it.

According to the 2024 order guide: SE/SEL/Titanium get "2 way" up and down only adjustable head restraints ST-Line and ST get "4 way" up and down and forward and back adjustable head restraints. 2020 was the last year for seemingly all series to have 4 way adjustable head restraints. 2021 ST-Line, Titanium, and ST had 4 way (SE and SEL had 2 way) 2022-2024 ST-Line and ST get 4 way, (SE, SEL, Titanium had 2 way)

They were put on by the dealership before I bought it. They are not great tires but I guess they aren't bad either. I won't be replacing them with the same tires. They are pretty greasy in the heat and not great in standing water. They have 42,000 miles on them and probably be done in another 10k miles. So no matter that the share the name with the vehicle, it isn't enough to get them!

Just a 100 day update (only at 101,500 miles, only 5k miles on new brakes, it was down for the transmission for too long). Got the $65 rebate check ($130 since I did 2 kits), with a check that is good until 4/11/2025 (so less than a month, hah, I digitally deposited it already). My normal driving environment is pretty flat, but so far no issues in normal driving (even near emergency stops), using Adaptive Cruise with Stop and Go also. Maybe it will creep once more when the car in front is stopped, but I think it always did this, making me wonder if it would stop creeping. Went to the mountains for vacation. Not sure if it is the new pads all around, the new rotors, or the larger rotors, but I was pretty aggressive in my use of them coming down passes, and no sign of chatter from them over heating. Last time I did this with the 80-90k brakes they chattered until cooled off every time Adaptive Cruise would apply the whoa, or I would aggressively due to traffic. I had to both use sport mode, and 4 bars for adaptive cruise to stop it from overheating them frequently. The rotors, with the shiny coating, look great. the OEM ones had a dull grey coating that still looked okay, stuff doesn't really rust where I live, rotors do but not heavily. I will likely paint them red next time it isn't in use for a day, which is hard to come by.

My 2019 did that when I put in some very cheap straight from China LED turn signal bulbs in the front. They supposedly were "canbus ready" but at $3 for the pair too good to be true. I couldn't stand the out of sequence fast blink inside. On my 2019 those are basically the only incandescent bulb besides the license plate light, but your 2014 mostly has incandescent bulbs. Are any of them replaced with LEDs?

Ford has had different definitions of excessive oil consumption over the years. For my 2000 Grand Marquis with the 4.6 they considered 1 quart every 1000 miles to be okay (it isn't). Not until I got to the 275,000 mile range would it use a quart every 3,000 miles (I considered this okay given the miles, I would add 1/2 a quart at 3,000 and change it at 5,000). For the 2.7 they consider 1 quart every 3,000 miles to be normal, any more is excessive (I would find 1 qt/3000 miles to be excessive). Even with my turbo 1.5 and 2.0 engines, up to 150,000 miles, I don't see even 1/4 a quart in 7,000 miles consumption. I think my 3.5 in my 2012 Fusion, at 148,000 miles is finally using enough to detect it on the dipstick, but not enough to need to add between the 7500-10,000 change interval. On the 3.5 I check the oil more regularly for coolant from the water pump, but at 100,000 miles on my Edge (2019 2.0) I am checking it every couple of tanks of fuel.

Auto hold - When enabled (in a supported vehicle...) and you come to a complete stop, you can then let your foot off the brake, and the vehicle remains stopped until you give it gas. hill start assist - If the vehicle senses you are on an incline, when you release the brake pedal it holds the vehicle for a few seconds or until you give it gas, allowing you time to get your foot from from the brake to the gas. Stop and Go Adaptive Cruise - if stopped behind another vehicle, while brake is pressed, pressing RES + will put it in stop mode. You can release the brake and it will stay until you press RES+ or give it gas (and the vehicle in front you is moving), then it will go on its own with the space you set from the car in front of you, up to the speed you have set.

My 2017 Escape came with Global Up enabled, but in one of the SSM, CSP, TSB, or recall issues unrelated to it disabled it. I had gotten used to it, as my older 2012 Fusion only had down, and with out fail I would have to run out and put them up and close the sun roof, but my 2015 Fusion I could do it from the remote, and 2017 to begin with I could also.

What part of the issue? The supposed low oil pressure shutting off the car (it doesn't) The car shutting off? The car hard to start after fueling it? The 2 different fault codes? The remaining issue the OP posted was likely the purge valve.

2021 they deleted the chrome tip exhaust for SE and SEL, so the tailpipes are expected. However that valance/trim shouldn't have the exhaust cut outs, it should be straight across the bottom. None of the media site or brochures show anything but Titanium or ST, so no good Ford official views of the SE/SEL. It likely has been replaced for some reason, could be just it was damaged, or there was more extensive work done. This is what it should look like:

Since it is a 2019, and it is not an ST, it has the 8 speed 8F35. While there is a reprogram available for it, you likely wouldn't be able to tell if it has been done or not, not on a test drive, or even short term ownership. The indication of the issue is stated as: So if you detect that, it might not have been done yet, that is what you would be on the look out for.

The ST doesn't have the 8F35 (it is the 8F57). That linked document is about a reprogram, that doesn't skip a gear. Only the 2021+ ST is programmed to skip 2nd gear, effectively making it a 7 speed transmission. The gear ratios between the 8F35 and 8F57 are different.

Yes, 2015+ is the 5x108mm (5x4.25in) bolt pattern.

Often times the ads for these have nonsensical details. Most of that doesn't make sense, or all of them have it. Dual shift? Could be Sport mode, could be AWD with paddle shifters). Name any vehicle in the US that doesn't have power steering! Those wheels, with the painted front and side facia with chrome means it is a Titanium 301a with the Elite Package (and it has enhanced active park assist, front camera, pano roof since no side roof rack bars, etc etc etc). You can find the brochure or order guide for it as well to determine what it really has. The wheels are 20's, if it is AWD you can go down to an 18 inch wheel (as long as it is the right backspacing and not weird, you can get standard Edge 18s for example).

It won't matter, you are adding the key to the car, it can be new or used. I forget to check mine when I bought it and already had 4 keys programmed (I only got 2, so 2 are missing), and I can't add that third one I bought without either paying the dealer to remove them all and add back only 2, or try my luck on beta functionality in ForScan to do it (not that brave yet). 4 is the limit.

Yes, it has been requested before, probably enough difference (SYNC 4, ST 7 speed)? Or just do 2019-2024 Edge and 2024+ Nautilus? Do you want to know about 2021 Edge in general (https://cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/brochures/ford/2021-edge.pdf) or what might have changed from 2020 and what options your 2021 SEL might have (https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North America/US/product/2021/edge/2021-Edge-Order-Guide.pdf) or an overview with some details https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/products/crossovers---suvs/edge/2021-edge.html Or post questions in the 2019-2020 Edge, which is pretty similar to 2021 (SEL lost some features)

Too bad you are likely out of your initial 3yr/36k miles warranty, I would say that is extremely early and indicative of a problem that would be covered, even though it is a wear item, there are exceptions. Did they explain why they needed replaced? Wear (down to 2-3mm), abnormal wear (one pad worn while all others are fine), contamination, delamination, caliper issue, or anything else? Was this found during a normal service visit (like an oil change with a 99 point inspection) or due to a complaint about brake issues? When I took my vehicles in for "TheWorks" oil changes they would measure the pads and mark them off on the inspection sheet as both a color (green, yellow, red) but a range in pad material left. I am pretty hard on brakes, I had around 96,000 miles on my 2019 when I replaced them. The rears were getting close to 3mm left, I suspect I could have gone another 10,000 miles easy, and the fronts had more than half remaining, but I replaced them all around anyways, easy cheap job and the weather was moderate and made it less of a choir to do. My rear pads compared to new, you can see one side was a bit more worn than the other, and at more of an angle, but still had a bit of pad left:

When I did this on the used 2019 I purchased, I first did a master reset to get rid of the previous owners access to the vehicle. Since I had an account and FordPass app already for another car, I just added a new car, scanned the VIN tag in the drivers door opening (or you can manually input it), and accepted in the vehicles screen. I don't remember needing to get any other information from the SYNC system on the car.

Titanium came with either standard Halogen low and high beams (low is a projector style lens, high beam is an open reflector style) or HID (which uses the same bulb for low and high beam, using the projector lens, and a gate that opens or closes to block light). If you replaced a bulb, the inner one (closest to the grille), and it was an H15, that is the DRL only bulb for an HID headlight, and not the "main bulb". Each side has its own fuse, so it isn't a common fuse issue. It isn't unheard of for bulbs to burn out at the same time, they are generally on the same exact amount of time.