dabangsta

Ford has had different definitions of excessive oil consumption over the years. For my 2000 Grand Marquis with the 4.6 they considered 1 quart every 1000 miles to be okay (it isn't). Not until I got to the 275,000 mile range would it use a quart every 3,000 miles (I considered this okay given the miles, I would add 1/2 a quart at 3,000 and change it at 5,000). For the 2.7 they consider 1 quart every 3,000 miles to be normal, any more is excessive (I would find 1 qt/3000 miles to be excessive). Even with my turbo 1.5 and 2.0 engines, up to 150,000 miles, I don't see even 1/4 a quart in 7,000 miles consumption. I think my 3.5 in my 2012 Fusion, at 148,000 miles is finally using enough to detect it on the dipstick, but not enough to need to add between the 7500-10,000 change interval. On the 3.5 I check the oil more regularly for coolant from the water pump, but at 100,000 miles on my Edge (2019 2.0) I am checking it every couple of tanks of fuel.

Auto hold - When enabled (in a supported vehicle...) and you come to a complete stop, you can then let your foot off the brake, and the vehicle remains stopped until you give it gas. hill start assist - If the vehicle senses you are on an incline, when you release the brake pedal it holds the vehicle for a few seconds or until you give it gas, allowing you time to get your foot from from the brake to the gas. Stop and Go Adaptive Cruise - if stopped behind another vehicle, while brake is pressed, pressing RES + will put it in stop mode. You can release the brake and it will stay until you press RES+ or give it gas (and the vehicle in front you is moving), then it will go on its own with the space you set from the car in front of you, up to the speed you have set.

My 2017 Escape came with Global Up enabled, but in one of the SSM, CSP, TSB, or recall issues unrelated to it disabled it. I had gotten used to it, as my older 2012 Fusion only had down, and with out fail I would have to run out and put them up and close the sun roof, but my 2015 Fusion I could do it from the remote, and 2017 to begin with I could also.

What part of the issue? The supposed low oil pressure shutting off the car (it doesn't) The car shutting off? The car hard to start after fueling it? The 2 different fault codes? The remaining issue the OP posted was likely the purge valve.

2021 they deleted the chrome tip exhaust for SE and SEL, so the tailpipes are expected. However that valance/trim shouldn't have the exhaust cut outs, it should be straight across the bottom. None of the media site or brochures show anything but Titanium or ST, so no good Ford official views of the SE/SEL. It likely has been replaced for some reason, could be just it was damaged, or there was more extensive work done. This is what it should look like:

Since it is a 2019, and it is not an ST, it has the 8 speed 8F35. While there is a reprogram available for it, you likely wouldn't be able to tell if it has been done or not, not on a test drive, or even short term ownership. The indication of the issue is stated as: So if you detect that, it might not have been done yet, that is what you would be on the look out for.

The ST doesn't have the 8F35 (it is the 8F57). That linked document is about a reprogram, that doesn't skip a gear. Only the 2021+ ST is programmed to skip 2nd gear, effectively making it a 7 speed transmission. The gear ratios between the 8F35 and 8F57 are different.

Yes, 2015+ is the 5x108mm (5x4.25in) bolt pattern.

Often times the ads for these have nonsensical details. Most of that doesn't make sense, or all of them have it. Dual shift? Could be Sport mode, could be AWD with paddle shifters). Name any vehicle in the US that doesn't have power steering! Those wheels, with the painted front and side facia with chrome means it is a Titanium 301a with the Elite Package (and it has enhanced active park assist, front camera, pano roof since no side roof rack bars, etc etc etc). You can find the brochure or order guide for it as well to determine what it really has. The wheels are 20's, if it is AWD you can go down to an 18 inch wheel (as long as it is the right backspacing and not weird, you can get standard Edge 18s for example).

It won't matter, you are adding the key to the car, it can be new or used. I forget to check mine when I bought it and already had 4 keys programmed (I only got 2, so 2 are missing), and I can't add that third one I bought without either paying the dealer to remove them all and add back only 2, or try my luck on beta functionality in ForScan to do it (not that brave yet). 4 is the limit.

Yes, it has been requested before, probably enough difference (SYNC 4, ST 7 speed)? Or just do 2019-2024 Edge and 2024+ Nautilus? Do you want to know about 2021 Edge in general (https://cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/brochures/ford/2021-edge.pdf) or what might have changed from 2020 and what options your 2021 SEL might have (https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North America/US/product/2021/edge/2021-Edge-Order-Guide.pdf) or an overview with some details https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/products/crossovers---suvs/edge/2021-edge.html Or post questions in the 2019-2020 Edge, which is pretty similar to 2021 (SEL lost some features)

Too bad you are likely out of your initial 3yr/36k miles warranty, I would say that is extremely early and indicative of a problem that would be covered, even though it is a wear item, there are exceptions. Did they explain why they needed replaced? Wear (down to 2-3mm), abnormal wear (one pad worn while all others are fine), contamination, delamination, caliper issue, or anything else? Was this found during a normal service visit (like an oil change with a 99 point inspection) or due to a complaint about brake issues? When I took my vehicles in for "TheWorks" oil changes they would measure the pads and mark them off on the inspection sheet as both a color (green, yellow, red) but a range in pad material left. I am pretty hard on brakes, I had around 96,000 miles on my 2019 when I replaced them. The rears were getting close to 3mm left, I suspect I could have gone another 10,000 miles easy, and the fronts had more than half remaining, but I replaced them all around anyways, easy cheap job and the weather was moderate and made it less of a choir to do. My rear pads compared to new, you can see one side was a bit more worn than the other, and at more of an angle, but still had a bit of pad left:

When I did this on the used 2019 I purchased, I first did a master reset to get rid of the previous owners access to the vehicle. Since I had an account and FordPass app already for another car, I just added a new car, scanned the VIN tag in the drivers door opening (or you can manually input it), and accepted in the vehicles screen. I don't remember needing to get any other information from the SYNC system on the car.

Titanium came with either standard Halogen low and high beams (low is a projector style lens, high beam is an open reflector style) or HID (which uses the same bulb for low and high beam, using the projector lens, and a gate that opens or closes to block light). If you replaced a bulb, the inner one (closest to the grille), and it was an H15, that is the DRL only bulb for an HID headlight, and not the "main bulb". Each side has its own fuse, so it isn't a common fuse issue. It isn't unheard of for bulbs to burn out at the same time, they are generally on the same exact amount of time.

One possible issue it might be is the so called "coolant intrusion" issue. You don't mention your coolant level going down or needing to add some or frequently, but it is possible that is the issue, or seeing white "smoke" (actually steam) from the tailpipes. The spark plug from that cylinder would have looked different, probably lacking carbon or maybe orange/yellow tinged from the coolant. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf

Since what you call SYNC 2 they call MyFord Touch, and they did versions from 1.x to 3.10, it is an okay versioning method. Ford US no longer seems to have this information, but it can be found here: https://www.ford.co.za/support/how-tos/sync/sync-with-myford-touch/check-the-sync-with-myford-touch-software-version It is an SD card, and if you go to the site and look at the documentation you need version 3.5.1 or newer to use A15/B15 (which is the 2024 maps and last one they will be releasing). https://ford.navigation.com/product/Catalog/Catalog_Ford_Edge_2011/U-S-AND-CANADA-SYNC-2-NAVIGATION-SYSTEM-MAP-UPDATE-VERSION-A15/sku/GM5T-19H449-AJ/en_US/FordNA/USD has a link to checking and what version you need. They can be had from other sources for much less, but I am not sure if they are legitimate, copies, or scams.

If you think it is Lane Keeping (probably not, but the icon that changes orange when it alerts is the smaller car at the bottom) press the purple button on the end of the turn signal stalk. If you think it is Lane Centering (most likely, if yours is equipped), then on the left steering wheel control, there is a button with a steering wheel on it. Pressing it to turn it off will make the steering wheel go away in the instrument cluster and will show the vehicle instead.

That seems like it would be the Lane Centering and not seeing one or more markings on the road. The "orange round symbol" is the steering wheel icon that shows that Lane Centering is enabled. It turning Orange means it can't sense a line. You can turn it off like I mentioned to see if that stops the ding, but it will not longer steer for you when it can.

What is triggering the alert? Is it Adaptive Cruise and Lane Centering and not seeing a line (also should see that in the dash one side goes orange)? I can't think of any other times there are alerts due to cruise being used. You can turn off Lane Centering by pressing the button on the left side of the steering wheel with the steering wheel to turn it off. I turn it off when I use Stop and Go Adaptive Cruise around town, as each intersection I get the alert since the lines are not continuous. I alternated using it and not using it on my last 800 mile round trip drive, and I find that Lane Centering does help a bit with fatigue. About 40 miles of my drive has very spotty lines so I shut it off then as well, and don't always remember to turn it back on.

Yes, the 17 inch spare only fits over the FWD sized front rotor. If you have AWD or an ST (which other than early Sports, only AWD, but have different brake setups) you need the 18 inch spare wheel and tire. The 18 inch spare tire is taller since it is the same width and aspect ratio as the 17 incher, on a larger diameter wheel. Side by side comparison:

All four handles on your 2019 have sensors for touch lock/unlock, it should work from any door. It should also sense it at the liftgate and allow you to use the button to open it without unlocking the entire vehicle.

Personally, if it was me, I would just buy some cheaper aftermarket keys (if you have 2 already), and add a couple, and shelve the bad ones. I also have people that are abusive with keys; lotion, hand sanitizer, and sweat are bad on them, as is dropping them, closing them in doors, swinging them attached to lanyards, etc. I always get silicone covers for them. Also handy to color code cars or people when you have 4 Fords with similar keys and 4 drivers. I am also willing to try things out and combine parts to get things working. Part of my current key setup for my 2012 Fusion with the IKT: The flip key is actually a Volkswagen shell, with generic internals programmed for Ford. It had the wrong security chip in it, so I got my own for $1.50 from China and made it work. I like the simple key and separate fob for my back pack, as an emergency spare, but I find I go back to it a lot, as it is what many of my earlier Fords had, and feels comfortable.

If you have the IKT (key head is the remote, key blade is always out, key start vehicle), the OEM one is sonic welded on the side with the electronics and blade, only the back is easy to remove to change the battery. I tried to get one apart for my 2012 Fusion and it wasn't easy, and the RFID chip got damaged. I grabbed a few from the junk yard to test it on before I tried my own. I decided I would just add a couple more keys. The aftermarket shells are mostly made for the aftermarket circuit board, but you can destructively disassemble them if you are careful. Aftermarket key and shell, that irregular shaped rectangle is the PATS security chip: This was an OEM key that I took the board out of, and was going to reuse the PATS chip, but it doesn't work like a normal RFID chip, or it needs an antenna, or something, but it was pocketed at the junk yard to test on. This shows the top snapped down over the middle of an OEM one, but I am pretty sure it is glued or sonic welded, I had to use a dremel to get them apart:

Since mine is a daily driver, I skipped the slotted and drilled rotors, but I did do the Power Stop coated rotors with ceramic pads. I was tempted to since the $110 rebate made them well under $300 for all corners, but I would probably be doing them every 18 months, which is not something I want to do. I put the Power Stop Z23 kit (slotted rotors, carbon fiber-ceramic pads) on my 2012 Fusion and I wear pads out every 30k miles, which was fine when it was my beat around weekend car, but now it is a daily driver, so next set won't be these again. Mine get noisy when others drive the vehicle for a few hundred miles. A few hard stops (which are my norm) and they stop the slight chatter and groan. That is were the slots come in (like a cheese grater heh).

What year, and depending on the year, what type of key/entry, and does it have remote start? There are every thing from the IKT (physical key with remote features on the head) to the latest Intelligent Access fob that uses proximity and push button start. Again, without knowing any other details, would be a lot of guessing. Could be as simple as the remote need a battery (not all key types need the battery for it to start normally), or more involved.