dabangsta

2021 they deleted the chrome tip exhaust for SE and SEL, so the tailpipes are expected. However that valance/trim shouldn't have the exhaust cut outs, it should be straight across the bottom. None of the media site or brochures show anything but Titanium or ST, so no good Ford official views of the SE/SEL. It likely has been replaced for some reason, could be just it was damaged, or there was more extensive work done. This is what it should look like:

Since it is a 2019, and it is not an ST, it has the 8 speed 8F35. While there is a reprogram available for it, you likely wouldn't be able to tell if it has been done or not, not on a test drive, or even short term ownership. The indication of the issue is stated as: So if you detect that, it might not have been done yet, that is what you would be on the look out for.

The ST doesn't have the 8F35 (it is the 8F57). That linked document is about a reprogram, that doesn't skip a gear. Only the 2021+ ST is programmed to skip 2nd gear, effectively making it a 7 speed transmission. The gear ratios between the 8F35 and 8F57 are different.

Yes, 2015+ is the 5x108mm (5x4.25in) bolt pattern.

Often times the ads for these have nonsensical details. Most of that doesn't make sense, or all of them have it. Dual shift? Could be Sport mode, could be AWD with paddle shifters). Name any vehicle in the US that doesn't have power steering! Those wheels, with the painted front and side facia with chrome means it is a Titanium 301a with the Elite Package (and it has enhanced active park assist, front camera, pano roof since no side roof rack bars, etc etc etc). You can find the brochure or order guide for it as well to determine what it really has. The wheels are 20's, if it is AWD you can go down to an 18 inch wheel (as long as it is the right backspacing and not weird, you can get standard Edge 18s for example).

It won't matter, you are adding the key to the car, it can be new or used. I forget to check mine when I bought it and already had 4 keys programmed (I only got 2, so 2 are missing), and I can't add that third one I bought without either paying the dealer to remove them all and add back only 2, or try my luck on beta functionality in ForScan to do it (not that brave yet). 4 is the limit.

Yes, it has been requested before, probably enough difference (SYNC 4, ST 7 speed)? Or just do 2019-2024 Edge and 2024+ Nautilus? Do you want to know about 2021 Edge in general (https://cdn.dealereprocess.org/cdn/brochures/ford/2021-edge.pdf) or what might have changed from 2020 and what options your 2021 SEL might have (https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North America/US/product/2021/edge/2021-Edge-Order-Guide.pdf) or an overview with some details https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/products/crossovers---suvs/edge/2021-edge.html Or post questions in the 2019-2020 Edge, which is pretty similar to 2021 (SEL lost some features)

Too bad you are likely out of your initial 3yr/36k miles warranty, I would say that is extremely early and indicative of a problem that would be covered, even though it is a wear item, there are exceptions. Did they explain why they needed replaced? Wear (down to 2-3mm), abnormal wear (one pad worn while all others are fine), contamination, delamination, caliper issue, or anything else? Was this found during a normal service visit (like an oil change with a 99 point inspection) or due to a complaint about brake issues? When I took my vehicles in for "TheWorks" oil changes they would measure the pads and mark them off on the inspection sheet as both a color (green, yellow, red) but a range in pad material left. I am pretty hard on brakes, I had around 96,000 miles on my 2019 when I replaced them. The rears were getting close to 3mm left, I suspect I could have gone another 10,000 miles easy, and the fronts had more than half remaining, but I replaced them all around anyways, easy cheap job and the weather was moderate and made it less of a choir to do. My rear pads compared to new, you can see one side was a bit more worn than the other, and at more of an angle, but still had a bit of pad left:

When I did this on the used 2019 I purchased, I first did a master reset to get rid of the previous owners access to the vehicle. Since I had an account and FordPass app already for another car, I just added a new car, scanned the VIN tag in the drivers door opening (or you can manually input it), and accepted in the vehicles screen. I don't remember needing to get any other information from the SYNC system on the car.

Titanium came with either standard Halogen low and high beams (low is a projector style lens, high beam is an open reflector style) or HID (which uses the same bulb for low and high beam, using the projector lens, and a gate that opens or closes to block light). If you replaced a bulb, the inner one (closest to the grille), and it was an H15, that is the DRL only bulb for an HID headlight, and not the "main bulb". Each side has its own fuse, so it isn't a common fuse issue. It isn't unheard of for bulbs to burn out at the same time, they are generally on the same exact amount of time.

One possible issue it might be is the so called "coolant intrusion" issue. You don't mention your coolant level going down or needing to add some or frequently, but it is possible that is the issue, or seeing white "smoke" (actually steam) from the tailpipes. The spark plug from that cylinder would have looked different, probably lacking carbon or maybe orange/yellow tinged from the coolant. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf

Since what you call SYNC 2 they call MyFord Touch, and they did versions from 1.x to 3.10, it is an okay versioning method. Ford US no longer seems to have this information, but it can be found here: https://www.ford.co.za/support/how-tos/sync/sync-with-myford-touch/check-the-sync-with-myford-touch-software-version It is an SD card, and if you go to the site and look at the documentation you need version 3.5.1 or newer to use A15/B15 (which is the 2024 maps and last one they will be releasing). https://ford.navigation.com/product/Catalog/Catalog_Ford_Edge_2011/U-S-AND-CANADA-SYNC-2-NAVIGATION-SYSTEM-MAP-UPDATE-VERSION-A15/sku/GM5T-19H449-AJ/en_US/FordNA/USD has a link to checking and what version you need. They can be had from other sources for much less, but I am not sure if they are legitimate, copies, or scams.

If you think it is Lane Keeping (probably not, but the icon that changes orange when it alerts is the smaller car at the bottom) press the purple button on the end of the turn signal stalk. If you think it is Lane Centering (most likely, if yours is equipped), then on the left steering wheel control, there is a button with a steering wheel on it. Pressing it to turn it off will make the steering wheel go away in the instrument cluster and will show the vehicle instead.

That seems like it would be the Lane Centering and not seeing one or more markings on the road. The "orange round symbol" is the steering wheel icon that shows that Lane Centering is enabled. It turning Orange means it can't sense a line. You can turn it off like I mentioned to see if that stops the ding, but it will not longer steer for you when it can.

What is triggering the alert? Is it Adaptive Cruise and Lane Centering and not seeing a line (also should see that in the dash one side goes orange)? I can't think of any other times there are alerts due to cruise being used. You can turn off Lane Centering by pressing the button on the left side of the steering wheel with the steering wheel to turn it off. I turn it off when I use Stop and Go Adaptive Cruise around town, as each intersection I get the alert since the lines are not continuous. I alternated using it and not using it on my last 800 mile round trip drive, and I find that Lane Centering does help a bit with fatigue. About 40 miles of my drive has very spotty lines so I shut it off then as well, and don't always remember to turn it back on.

Yes, the 17 inch spare only fits over the FWD sized front rotor. If you have AWD or an ST (which other than early Sports, only AWD, but have different brake setups) you need the 18 inch spare wheel and tire. The 18 inch spare tire is taller since it is the same width and aspect ratio as the 17 incher, on a larger diameter wheel. Side by side comparison:

All four handles on your 2019 have sensors for touch lock/unlock, it should work from any door. It should also sense it at the liftgate and allow you to use the button to open it without unlocking the entire vehicle.

Personally, if it was me, I would just buy some cheaper aftermarket keys (if you have 2 already), and add a couple, and shelve the bad ones. I also have people that are abusive with keys; lotion, hand sanitizer, and sweat are bad on them, as is dropping them, closing them in doors, swinging them attached to lanyards, etc. I always get silicone covers for them. Also handy to color code cars or people when you have 4 Fords with similar keys and 4 drivers. I am also willing to try things out and combine parts to get things working. Part of my current key setup for my 2012 Fusion with the IKT: The flip key is actually a Volkswagen shell, with generic internals programmed for Ford. It had the wrong security chip in it, so I got my own for $1.50 from China and made it work. I like the simple key and separate fob for my back pack, as an emergency spare, but I find I go back to it a lot, as it is what many of my earlier Fords had, and feels comfortable.

If you have the IKT (key head is the remote, key blade is always out, key start vehicle), the OEM one is sonic welded on the side with the electronics and blade, only the back is easy to remove to change the battery. I tried to get one apart for my 2012 Fusion and it wasn't easy, and the RFID chip got damaged. I grabbed a few from the junk yard to test it on before I tried my own. I decided I would just add a couple more keys. The aftermarket shells are mostly made for the aftermarket circuit board, but you can destructively disassemble them if you are careful. Aftermarket key and shell, that irregular shaped rectangle is the PATS security chip: This was an OEM key that I took the board out of, and was going to reuse the PATS chip, but it doesn't work like a normal RFID chip, or it needs an antenna, or something, but it was pocketed at the junk yard to test on. This shows the top snapped down over the middle of an OEM one, but I am pretty sure it is glued or sonic welded, I had to use a dremel to get them apart:

Since mine is a daily driver, I skipped the slotted and drilled rotors, but I did do the Power Stop coated rotors with ceramic pads. I was tempted to since the $110 rebate made them well under $300 for all corners, but I would probably be doing them every 18 months, which is not something I want to do. I put the Power Stop Z23 kit (slotted rotors, carbon fiber-ceramic pads) on my 2012 Fusion and I wear pads out every 30k miles, which was fine when it was my beat around weekend car, but now it is a daily driver, so next set won't be these again. Mine get noisy when others drive the vehicle for a few hundred miles. A few hard stops (which are my norm) and they stop the slight chatter and groan. That is were the slots come in (like a cheese grater heh).

What year, and depending on the year, what type of key/entry, and does it have remote start? There are every thing from the IKT (physical key with remote features on the head) to the latest Intelligent Access fob that uses proximity and push button start. Again, without knowing any other details, would be a lot of guessing. Could be as simple as the remote need a battery (not all key types need the battery for it to start normally), or more involved.

The passive anti-theft SecuriLock key, the chip in the key it needs to see to start. When I installed remote starts on my older Ford and Lincolns (but not too old), I would buy a bypass module that would look like a key when remote starting, and allow it to start. I think you can add them to that (it just needs an enable during start) but I wouldn't install something like that in 2024. I wouldn't install that in 1998 on my 1997 Cougar (which didn't have a chipped key).

Does it support the RFID/smart key? I don't see a bypass module for that, so that would need to be added. For $120-200 you can get an MPC or Start-X kit that is easier to install (T harness, probably no cutting or tapping), uses the OEM fob, and supports the smart key (as long as you have 2 existing keys to program it with).

That was one obstacle I wasn't willing to confront going to the ST calipers. Since they are larger pistons, I could see there being more required changes. There are different part numbers for the brake boosters FWD vs AWD, so there might be more to what I did than I expected. I couldn't find a Ford parts master cylinder part number for my FWD small rotor vehicle, just for the ST. I also have let the Adaptive Cruise do it's thing in stop and go traffic, as well as interstate 70-30 mph traffic flow, and it does fine, whoa'ed down as expected in all situations.

I got the chance to do some heavy braking with it, and no fade or chattering at all. Compared to the worn stuff, I am sure just being new is most of that, but still I think a worthwhile small upgrade, staying with stock available stuff. The wear pattern on the discs looks good (under the coating there is the crosshatching, and only in small section is it wearing beyond the cross hatch so far, and one small section that still has some of the coating. Next up, painting the calipers red, as the wheels are open enough to make it worth it. Maybe some other color, as they are easier to keep clean painted versus raw. And as all my vehicles, the passenger side were dirtier, since there is much more debris on the road on that side (same with inside of the rim, and chips in paint, etc).