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dabangsta

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  1. Since what you call SYNC 2 they call MyFord Touch, and they did versions from 1.x to 3.10, it is an okay versioning method. Ford US no longer seems to have this information, but it can be found here: https://www.ford.co.za/support/how-tos/sync/sync-with-myford-touch/check-the-sync-with-myford-touch-software-version It is an SD card, and if you go to the site and look at the documentation you need version 3.5.1 or newer to use A15/B15 (which is the 2024 maps and last one they will be releasing). https://ford.navigation.com/product/Catalog/Catalog_Ford_Edge_2011/U-S-AND-CANADA-SYNC-2-NAVIGATION-SYSTEM-MAP-UPDATE-VERSION-A15/sku/GM5T-19H449-AJ/en_US/FordNA/USD has a link to checking and what version you need. They can be had from other sources for much less, but I am not sure if they are legitimate, copies, or scams.
  2. If you think it is Lane Keeping (probably not, but the icon that changes orange when it alerts is the smaller car at the bottom) press the purple button on the end of the turn signal stalk. If you think it is Lane Centering (most likely, if yours is equipped), then on the left steering wheel control, there is a button with a steering wheel on it. Pressing it to turn it off will make the steering wheel go away in the instrument cluster and will show the vehicle instead.
  3. That seems like it would be the Lane Centering and not seeing one or more markings on the road. The "orange round symbol" is the steering wheel icon that shows that Lane Centering is enabled. It turning Orange means it can't sense a line. You can turn it off like I mentioned to see if that stops the ding, but it will not longer steer for you when it can.
  4. What is triggering the alert? Is it Adaptive Cruise and Lane Centering and not seeing a line (also should see that in the dash one side goes orange)? I can't think of any other times there are alerts due to cruise being used. You can turn off Lane Centering by pressing the button on the left side of the steering wheel with the steering wheel to turn it off. I turn it off when I use Stop and Go Adaptive Cruise around town, as each intersection I get the alert since the lines are not continuous. I alternated using it and not using it on my last 800 mile round trip drive, and I find that Lane Centering does help a bit with fatigue. About 40 miles of my drive has very spotty lines so I shut it off then as well, and don't always remember to turn it back on.
  5. dabangsta

    Spare Tire?

    Yes, the 17 inch spare only fits over the FWD sized front rotor. If you have AWD or an ST (which other than early Sports, only AWD, but have different brake setups) you need the 18 inch spare wheel and tire. The 18 inch spare tire is taller since it is the same width and aspect ratio as the 17 incher, on a larger diameter wheel. Side by side comparison:
  6. All four handles on your 2019 have sensors for touch lock/unlock, it should work from any door. It should also sense it at the liftgate and allow you to use the button to open it without unlocking the entire vehicle.
  7. Personally, if it was me, I would just buy some cheaper aftermarket keys (if you have 2 already), and add a couple, and shelve the bad ones. I also have people that are abusive with keys; lotion, hand sanitizer, and sweat are bad on them, as is dropping them, closing them in doors, swinging them attached to lanyards, etc. I always get silicone covers for them. Also handy to color code cars or people when you have 4 Fords with similar keys and 4 drivers. I am also willing to try things out and combine parts to get things working. Part of my current key setup for my 2012 Fusion with the IKT: The flip key is actually a Volkswagen shell, with generic internals programmed for Ford. It had the wrong security chip in it, so I got my own for $1.50 from China and made it work. I like the simple key and separate fob for my back pack, as an emergency spare, but I find I go back to it a lot, as it is what many of my earlier Fords had, and feels comfortable.
  8. If you have the IKT (key head is the remote, key blade is always out, key start vehicle), the OEM one is sonic welded on the side with the electronics and blade, only the back is easy to remove to change the battery. I tried to get one apart for my 2012 Fusion and it wasn't easy, and the RFID chip got damaged. I grabbed a few from the junk yard to test it on before I tried my own. I decided I would just add a couple more keys. The aftermarket shells are mostly made for the aftermarket circuit board, but you can destructively disassemble them if you are careful. Aftermarket key and shell, that irregular shaped rectangle is the PATS security chip: This was an OEM key that I took the board out of, and was going to reuse the PATS chip, but it doesn't work like a normal RFID chip, or it needs an antenna, or something, but it was pocketed at the junk yard to test on. This shows the top snapped down over the middle of an OEM one, but I am pretty sure it is glued or sonic welded, I had to use a dremel to get them apart:
  9. Since mine is a daily driver, I skipped the slotted and drilled rotors, but I did do the Power Stop coated rotors with ceramic pads. I was tempted to since the $110 rebate made them well under $300 for all corners, but I would probably be doing them every 18 months, which is not something I want to do. I put the Power Stop Z23 kit (slotted rotors, carbon fiber-ceramic pads) on my 2012 Fusion and I wear pads out every 30k miles, which was fine when it was my beat around weekend car, but now it is a daily driver, so next set won't be these again. Mine get noisy when others drive the vehicle for a few hundred miles. A few hard stops (which are my norm) and they stop the slight chatter and groan. That is were the slots come in (like a cheese grater heh).
  10. What year, and depending on the year, what type of key/entry, and does it have remote start? There are every thing from the IKT (physical key with remote features on the head) to the latest Intelligent Access fob that uses proximity and push button start. Again, without knowing any other details, would be a lot of guessing. Could be as simple as the remote need a battery (not all key types need the battery for it to start normally), or more involved.
  11. The passive anti-theft SecuriLock key, the chip in the key it needs to see to start. When I installed remote starts on my older Ford and Lincolns (but not too old), I would buy a bypass module that would look like a key when remote starting, and allow it to start. I think you can add them to that (it just needs an enable during start) but I wouldn't install something like that in 2024. I wouldn't install that in 1998 on my 1997 Cougar (which didn't have a chipped key).
  12. Does it support the RFID/smart key? I don't see a bypass module for that, so that would need to be added. For $120-200 you can get an MPC or Start-X kit that is easier to install (T harness, probably no cutting or tapping), uses the OEM fob, and supports the smart key (as long as you have 2 existing keys to program it with).
  13. That was one obstacle I wasn't willing to confront going to the ST calipers. Since they are larger pistons, I could see there being more required changes. There are different part numbers for the brake boosters FWD vs AWD, so there might be more to what I did than I expected. I couldn't find a Ford parts master cylinder part number for my FWD small rotor vehicle, just for the ST. I also have let the Adaptive Cruise do it's thing in stop and go traffic, as well as interstate 70-30 mph traffic flow, and it does fine, whoa'ed down as expected in all situations.
  14. I got the chance to do some heavy braking with it, and no fade or chattering at all. Compared to the worn stuff, I am sure just being new is most of that, but still I think a worthwhile small upgrade, staying with stock available stuff. The wear pattern on the discs looks good (under the coating there is the crosshatching, and only in small section is it wearing beyond the cross hatch so far, and one small section that still has some of the coating. Next up, painting the calipers red, as the wheels are open enough to make it worth it. Maybe some other color, as they are easier to keep clean painted versus raw. And as all my vehicles, the passenger side were dirtier, since there is much more debris on the road on that side (same with inside of the rim, and chips in paint, etc).
  15. Got the larger (18) spare. I was searching for an aluminum one, but apparently sellers think they are worth $300+. Also just trying to find one for an Edge they were more expensive, and/or the seller was vague on if it would include the tire or not (most had similar text about "tire not included (with full sized tire)") so I didn't want to chance that. Scored one out of an MKX (2017), with the 4 holes in it. Since the tire has the same aspect ratio as the 17, it is taller. The tire is more square (I am used to the rounded profile tread surface). The wheel had never been mounted, and the tire never driven on. I was worried that maybe the surround was different, and it wouldn't fit, but it fits just about as well as the smaller one, it isn't easy to get it out as the back is under the plastic trim, so you need to get the front up and lifted up. Different in diameter: In place, under the cargo floor, with all my accumulated emergency, spare, and handy to have stuff.
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