dabangsta

Can't swipe down in the map. It either scrolls the map, or does nothing. From the vehicle view it does update it, but that means leaving the map, doing that, then going back to the map.

A recent update brought it back! The reload circle arrow in the upper right can be used (only once every 30 seconds) to update the current location while it is being driven. I don't know when or what version of FordPass on Android got it, I pretty much gave up on it, but my wife got a flat tire (FordPass let me know) so I checked the location since it said it was running and not parked, and it's current location wasn't where it was parked last, and it updated to a closer location once I used the reload button.

I generally reset the trip each way, but decided to get a round trip view, since there are a variety of mountains on this trip and end at different elevations. Observations... I was on track to equal the EPA highway rating (even though that really isn't interstate driving if you look at the cycle) of 29mpg until: 10 minutes of 30-40 sustained, 60+ gusts of wind (and sand storm) dropped the average from 28.5 to 28 20(ish) seconds of WOT up a hill to get out of a bad situation developing (2 semis that couldn't maintain their lanes) dropped it from 28 to 27 This trip starts at 2200 ft elevation, tops out at around 5000 ft, and ends at 3900 ft The average speed of 77 mph is on par with what I usually average on this trip, as it is 98% interstate, 2 times 75>65 in city, and about 10 miles of highway at 65>55 I can knock 1 mpg off my average over 300 miles simply being aggressive getting on the interstate on a short on ramp (but I won't try merging at 35 mph either) Overall not bad for fuel mileage, but it is very easy to blow it up, winds really affect it, as does accelerating to pass people, especially over hills. Adaptive Cruise and being alert but not overdoing it goes a long ways. I would love to say I could set the cruise at 75 and just do that, but with the hills, semis, wrecks towing wrecks (people that buy cheap cars and drag them to Mexico/Guatemala), 75 mph is just...hard to maintain without speeding up and slowing down. I could easily get 30/31 mpg on this drive in my 2017 Escape with the 1.5. But I could also get really terrible mileage with wind, which is a big issue on this drive. I would get 25 mpg in my 2000 Grand Marquis (which I miss).

What gear oil? PTU? Rear diff? Or are you talking about the transmission? Any of them benefit from shorter change intervals.

One is Lane Keeping, that can be enabled and used without the Adaptive Cruise Control being used. It will alert you of leaving your lane (shake wheel, red section in dash display), and very lightly attempt to correct it with a little torque on the wheel. That is enabled or disabled by the button on the end of the stalk (not wiper, turn signal). The other is Lane Centering. It will provide enough torque to keep your vehicle in the lane, even in turns. It is only on with Adaptive Cruise Control, and is controlled by the button in the cruise control section that has a steering wheel on it. I read the owners manual about all the new stuff I had never had, and even if I don't use it, get familiar with it. I like Lane Centering, it really makes long trips less stressful. It doesn't steer for itself, I am still steering, but it lets me relax a bit.

Your battery is in okay shape. Nothing about any of those numbers indicate a current issue, or point to its demise anytime soon. I don't think any of your current issues are caused by the battery. I ran my 2017 Escape down to 225 CCA for 6+ months, but it was annoying, and not worth it.

Generally when you take in a battery to be tested, they: usually charge it (you only gives a full good result starting as charged as it can get) use a tester that tests and prints out: SoH (State of Health) (??generally CCA compared to rated CCA??) CCA (how many amps it can provide for 30 seconds at 0 degrees without dipping below 7v) Rated CCA (how many CCA is should be brand new) SoC (State of Charge) (current voltage vs rated voltage percentage, can be low if not charged, but only real handy if charged fully before test) Internal Resistance (can show an internal issue, like a dead or shorted cell) voltage (not as handy as other numbers) Often times shortcuts are taken, or the test isn't good enough to show the actual issue. Most places will give you the results (instead of just saying "it good"). They are more likely to do a full correct test if you are attempting to warranty the battery at the place it was bought from.

I am confused. Are there drivability concerns, or are you looking at the Intelligent AWD Information display, or something else, like the Lane Keeping and it is visually alerting you of crossing a line? I haven't seen a 2019 AWD display, and if it accounts for the new to 2019 disconnect or not. I have only seen it show front and rear bias, not side to side, which would be ESC but usually not in minor normal driving.

So when you take off from a stop to try to merge into traffic, the Traction Control light blinks on the dash and you are limited in power? When it happens when you are already moving does it make your brake pedal pulse or actually go down? Traction control, stability control, and roll control are pretty hard to engage, you really have to try, or be in very slippery conditions. Do you also get the power train/wrench/abs light on? It sounds more like a powertrain fault that needs diagnosed.

What year and model? Was it a solid hooooooooooooooooooooooonk (like button stuck) or honk-honk-honk-honk (like an alarm/indicator)? Maybe the fuse eventually blew, or the horn, from being on that long. My 2019 had a single horn, and a horn is part of driving where I live, and holding it for about 4 seconds (to let someone know they were changing lanes right into the side me) actually made the horn stop working (I checked the fuse, it was fine).

Someone else posted this recently, so I went and checked mine, and a couple of times I have had the same issue, only drivers door proximity works (I can only lock/unlock using the drivers door touch points). I went through the settings, thinking that it was related to the "Switch Inhibit" but I think that is only interior buttons. I went to the settings, and then tried, and all doors worked. It has happened a couple of times, because I more commonly unlock from the drivers rear door because I put stuff in there before getting in the drivers door. What alerts do you get from the proximity sensors? What does this mean? The Perimeter alarm is door sensors (a door, lift gate, hood) opened without the vehicle being unlocked. I don't think any Edge gets a sensor alarm (movement, glass breaking) like the MKX/Nautilus.

Face up in the cubby to wirelessly charge, or face down because the wireless charger makes your phone overheat. With SYNC 4, there is nothing that can be done on the phone that should be done on the phone while driving. Anything else is for when stopped, and reaching into that cubby is pretty good. Pocket is also a handy place. I don't have Wireless Android Auto in mine, so it has to be plugged in, for around town trips I would love wireless AA and just leave it in my pocket. I might try a current generation dongle for AA/CarPlay.

Is it push button start, or key start (not all Limited have Intelligent Access with push button start)? If the key fully turns in the cylinder enough to lock or unlock it, and it isn't, then it seems like the key cylinder linkage isn't hooked up. I suppose I would first try lubing up the key cylinder and latch with a spray (even WD-40 would help short term and clean it up). Even with vehicles I rarely, if ever open using the key, I still do it once a month (less with my Edge since it has a cover over it that is prone to breaking eventually, but is more protected), and once it starts getting rough I clean them up.

The Edge got a new engine configuration with a new block in MY 2019 (other vehicles got a revised block mid year 2019). The new 2.0 it got has things like an EGR cooler (which was problematic first couple of years, with a leak and TSB), and the block no longer has slits to the head, as you mention, but a round port.

The AC plug in has been handy a couple of times, but it is so limited. It is prone to kicking things plugged in (I have a very short 90 degree plug to move wall warts away so they don't get kicked). My 2019 has a 12v power port there, not the type c ports, but plenty of type c and type a adapters that sit flush in there.