eric1

I did not pay a fee for this issue specifically, because the car was in the shop for a different issue. I did receive a write-up report though, which said: "VERIFIED CONCERN, PERF INSP, RAN OASIS, FOUND SSM 50726, PERFORMED SSM - NO LATER CALIBRATION AVAILABLE FOR TCU, FOUND TCU HAS INTERNAL COMMUNICATIONS FAULT - VEHICLE NEEDS TELEMATICS CONTROL UNIT"

2019 Ford Edge Titanium. Car can no longer connect to ford pass app. I took it to dealership and they said “TCU has internal communication fault and must be replaced” and quoted me $1,200. Would much rather do it myself but would like any guidance prior to doing so. is it plug n play or would I have to go through a ton of reprogramming and whatnot?

I’ve brought it in twice for this issue, and will be bringing it in for a third time. I have to imagine they’ve run out of “fixes” for it. I’m even getting a new rear differential and I think it’s because they think that might fix the issue. So I can only imagine that the last and final fix would be to just replace the whole transmission. But maybe you’re right and that the transmission will really be no different and will just have the same issues and that’s why they haven’t bothered even suggesting that.

Here’s a question for those who have more knowledge: im going to try and convince my dealer to give me a whole new transmission on my 19 edge (im covered under warranty). However, since mostly all 2019s have this issue, wouldn’t I just receive a brand new version of the exact same transmission that has the exact same issues? Or would I somehow receive a brand new, updated & upgraded transmission? I dont know how that all works. Thanks in advance

Stolen from elsewhere: Not sure if everyone is aware, but there is currently an investigation being done for a class action suit on this matter. You can sign up here to get more information: 2019-2021 Lincoln Nautilus & Ford Edge Transmission - Class Action Investigation - Chimicles Schwartz Kriner & Donaldson-Smith LLP.

Interesting. I had the same issues. When i first brought my car in for the shuddering, they reprogrammed the transmission and replaced the torque converter. That did not help. so I brought the car in again last month, expect this time I had two issues: 1. car was shuddering at lower speeds 2. car would make a grinding noise during sharp turns at low speeds. It would clunk sometimes too. It all sounded like it was coming from the rear differential. So, the same issue that you also have. Check out SSM 49769 and SSM 49571 so, the dealer tackled problem 2 first. They replaced the differential fluid. They said that fixed the grinding problem. They said they don’t hear the clunk though, but they’ll keep driving it to see if they can figure it out. next thing I know, they’re ordering a new rear differential unit. Not sure why, because the fluid change fixed it. The rear differential is currently on back order though. i had to drive out of state so they let me use the car while waiting for the rear differential to come in. While driving it, I agree that there is no more grinding noise or clunk coming from the rear differential. so that makes me wonder if they just wanted to replaced the rear differential cuz it’s under warranty and they know they’ll get paid for it? Or did they order it because they think it will fix the shuddering problem?

Ironically I’m getting my rear differential replaced in the next week or two. The dealer told me they ordered me a new one, but it’s currently on back order. I’m covered under warranty so it’s not costing me anything. I assumed replacing the rear differential really wouldn’t make a difference, but since it’s covered under warranty I don’t mind them doing it. But now that you’re saying your dealer thinks it might be the rear differential as well I’m now very curious if that’ll actually fix it

Has anyone replaced the whole transmission because of this? If so, how were the results? im still under warranty and am considering trying to convince the dealer to just replace the whole transmission, because no other fix has worked

I have a 2019 Edge, titanium trim. The radio screen is like 6” diagonally across. Nice screen, no complaints. But I did see in the 21 and newer models they have very large screens. Is it possible to buy a screen from a 21 or newer off ebay and install it on my 19? if so, any tutorials anywhere?

2019 Ford Edge Titanium. Cant access my car anymore on Ford Pass. this is what it started looking like It was like this for several weeks. I ensured that I had the most up to date app version & sync version. Eventually I removed the vehicle from the app completely and tried re adding it. I cannot connect to the car anymore now though. this is what shows when I try and add it back to the app it tells me that access is denied, but I never denied it. No prompt shows up on my touchscreen or anything. It just auto denies itself. i then try going in to the cars touchscreen to make sure the hotspot is on, and I get this makes me feel like the modem in the car is either dead or disabled. Ford did work on my car recently, so it makes me wonder if they disabled it during their work and forgot to turn it back on? any insight on this issue?

That TSB is outdated. TSB 21-2389 supersedes the one you posted (TSB 21-2081).

Oh wow, didn’t know the fronts already had 70%. It does say it on the lower corner, you’re right. Do you know if that provides any heat / UV protection?

Could be the angle, but I feel like your fronts are lighter than the rears. So if your fronts are 35 then it makes me feel like the backs are 20

2019 Ford Edge Titanium What Is the default factory tint percentage on the rear windows? I’m getting my front driver & passenger windows tinted and want to ensure I match the rears. i assume it’s 20% like most all other cars, but wanted to ensure that for some reason ford didn’t get all weird for the ‘19 models or something. Thanks in advance Also, another question for the people with deep knowledge: the fronts already come with 70% tint from the factory by default, according to the info sticker in the bottom right corner of them. Do these windows also have UV and heat protection? Or are the solely just darkened (and sound proofed from what I'm reading)?

does the egr sensor consist of valves too? Or is it just the sensor? I’m looking to replace the sensor but not sure if I need to replace these valves too In your egr sensor removal diagram it looks like it contains valves too, but when I look up the sensor to purchase it, I just see the sensor

2019 Ford Edge Titanium AWD with 85k miles. When I accelerate from a stop and make a turn, I hear a clunk / thud coming from the rear. I believe it’s coming from the rear differential. I’m not sure how to replicate the noise because it doesn’t happen every time. any ideas?

Have you tried it yourself? I’m considering trying it myself

Ah if it’s in the emissions warranty then I’m way out of coverage lol. Only coverage I have remaining is my extended powertrain warranty. Im confused though. What’s being fixed? Is it the EGR? Or the DPFE Sensor? Or are those the same thing? I’ve never heard of those parts before so I’m clueless to this

Did you have to pay to have the DPFE Sensor or the EGR system replaced? If so, how much does it cost? Im curious if it’s covered under powertrain warranty

that’s a different issue, which I also dealt with and have had it “resolved” TSB 21-2389 (which applies to 2019-2021 Ford Edges) refers to a vehicle shudder when accelerating in the 20-30mph range. See more here. If you brought it to a Ford dealership then I feel like they should've known to look that up. Call them and tell them about TSB 21-2389 and ask if that could be it. The fix is first to just update the transmission software. If the problem still persists, which mine did, they then replace the torque converter. If still under powertrain warranty, then this should be fully covered, minus the deductible.

2019 Ford Edge Titanium AWD 85k miles (still under CPO powertrain warranty) Seems like if I’m at a dead stop and accelerate, often times while making a turn, I’ll hear & feel a clunk that seems to be coming from the rear middle of the car. Almost like it’s from the rear differential. Anyone have experience with this?

Have the same issue. 2019 Ford Edge Titanium 2.0L AWD with 80k miles. Transmission has been acting up like everyone else’s for the past 15-20k miles at least. I know transmission work is costly so I was scared to have it looked at - until I realized I’m still under powertrain warranty lol. I bought my car certified pre owned and still have powertrain coverage from that, fortunately. Took it to a Ford dealer and they updated the transmission (in relation to TSB 21-2389), and the tech said that it did not fix the problem. They then said the torque converter would need replaced, and since that is covered under warranty, I agreed. At the time of writing this, they have had my car for the past 28 days. Not sure why it’s taking so long, but fortunately I was provided a loaner vehicle. I’m curious if they found more problems. ———— UPDATE. My Edge was finally ready for pickup 28 days after dropping it off. Torque converter was replaced under warranty and I just had to pay the $100 deductible. The jerking feels a bit subdued, but it is definitely still there.

Really appreciate the information. Quick question, do you know the difference between all the different models? So far I've seen: HC3Z-19A387-B HC3Z-19A387-F HC3Z-19A387-H HC3Z-19A387-E HC3Z-19A387-C I see that the C model has USB-C with it, but I do not see any difference in any of the other models. A ford dealership told me that only the H model will fit my 2019 Edge (with carplay). But then I have people online tell me I need the B model. Then other people online say I need the F model. etc etc etc.. I can't seem to find a difference EDIT: after look at the diagram on Fords hub website, it seems like the B model is for non-carplay version (just because the diagram shows a radio with a smaller, non carplay radio screen).. Forgot to mention that I have apple carplay. So I believe I need model H. Not sure how to find that model on the hub site though

I'm referring to the two USB ports underneath the radio. Long story short: these USB ports on my 2019 Ford Edge Titanium are very 'touchy'... They work, but if you move the cord in the slightest, it'll stop working. Once you hold still it'll start working again. It's very annoying with apple carplay because it constantly connects and disconnects and makes the radio screen bug out. And no, it's not the cord nor the iPhone causing this issue. Have tried numerous different phones and cords. As soon as you wiggle the cord in any way it will automatically disconnect NOTE: its a 2019 Edge with carplay.. I think that makes a difference in the model number

FYI, I'm a noob and all I know is that this works specifically for the 2019 Ford Edge 2.0l Ecoboost. It could work for newer models too for all I know, but like I said, I'm a noob and all I know is that this is what works for the 2019 Ford Edge 2.0l Ecoboost. Long story short: In order to get an OEM purge valve you need to buy a whole fuel tube assembly called 'Fuel Vapour Separator Tube - 2.0l" (part number: K2GZ9D289A - link HERE) for a whopping MSRP $243.33... Read below to understand why. So, every autoparts store and wesbite tells you that you need to buy this $30-40 purge valve: BUT THAT IS NOT THE RIGHT PURGE VALVE. All of the websites & mechanic systems are wrong. They say that it fits your 2019 Ford Edge 2.0l Eco boost. That's NOT true! That part is nowhere to be found in your car. The purge valve that you need for your 2019 Ford Edge 2.0l Ecoboost looks like this: However, it appears that Ford does not sell this purge valve individually. You cannot buy an OEM version of this purge valve online. You can buy cheap Chinese versions online, but I guarantee you that they will last no more than 3 months at best. I'd highly advise staying away from that junk. The only way to get an OEM purge valve for your 2019 Ford Edge 2.0l Ecoboost is to buy a 'Fuel Vapour Separator Tube - 2.0l" (part number: K2GZ9D289A - link HERE).. This is what that looks like: Unfortunately, this whole assembly costs MSRP: $243.33. On the website if you change the dealer you're purchasing from you can maybe find it for a lower price. I selected a dozen different dealers & I was fortunate enough to find a dealer selling it for $175.20. Once you purchase that and receive it, just replace the whole Fuel Vapour Separator Tube and you'll be good. It's super easy to replace. If you need a guide on how to replace it, use this link Now, if you're okay with all of that, then you should be good to go. You're done and that's all you need to do. Hope this helps. However, if you want to save like $50+, then I have another solution that might work. I'm a car noob, so I don't know if it'll work. I did not do this nor attempt it. It's just a thought. Please do not take this as advice. It's just a thought: You could buy the Fuel Vapour Separator Tube that fits 2015-2018 Ford Edge models and then cut out the purge valve from the tube and throw the tube away. That part number is F2GZ9D289A (MSRP: $176.67) You'll then have to take your Fuel Vapour Separator Tube out of your 2019 Ford Edge 2.0l ecoboost and cut your purge valve out, then replace it with the purge valve you just got from the 2015-2018 Fuel Vapour Separator Tube. Once you put the new purge valve in your original Fuel Vapour Separator Tube just reinstall it back in and you'd be good. Again, I have not done this. I'm a car noob and know nothing about cars. I just thought this could maybe work. Only attempt this if you know what you're doing. NOTE: The 2015-2018 Fuel Vapour Separator Tube looks very similar to the 2019 Fuel Vapour Separator Tube, but they are NOT the same. Do not try to use the tubes from the 2015-2018 Fuel Vapour Separator Tube, only try and use the purge valve from it.