Sunnyorlando

I just posted this update in another headlight thread. May not work with 2016, but sure does with at least the '17 and on with HID. BTW - good quality LED bulbs have come a long ways, and with the newer ones having the LEDs positions line up with the respective halogen elements, they do work pretty good to align with the reflectors.

As posted early on, I was not happy with the HID headlight illumination in my Edge Sport with HIDs. I wondered why Ford had not made use of the already provided high beam position and instead applied only a DRL function. It would have been so simple for them to keep it as a high beam and DRL. So - This is a follow up to my previous post regarding how to make use of the existing H15 and HB bulb position as a high beam. After some initial looking into it, I dropped the project due to time constraints, and I am now following up on it. I was finally able to dig into this and complete the project and it works - Awesome! Anyone who is not happy with the factory illumination from the HIDs headlights and the restricted DRLs now has a solution. And it is an awesome result and I am very happy with it. The H15 LED must be a good quality one that has the LEDs lined up in the correct positions to match up to the H15 elements. And many of the newer LEDs now are doing this, so there are choices. Do no use just any H15 LED - this is critical to make proper use of the reflector in the headlight to the light disperses properly I can see things now ! Attached is a document with detailed instructions on how to do this, and it is quite simple. I hope this helps some. Cheers! 2017 Ford Edge Sport DRL-High Beam Mod 02052024.pdf

I'd be interested in this too.

2017 Edge sport 2.7 Why would my check engine light come in when either traction control or ABS activate? When this happens, either the traction control or ABS indicator flashes as it should, then engine light comes on. This has happened 2x now. The last time I reset the light via ForScan. This time I'm going to wait to see if it cycles off. Either way, I'd like to know if there's more to this. Any feedback on this? Thanks

Thanks Bofus.. Both shocks replaced by me - its a simple job as you may know, and I am quite experienced in mechanics. They are not OEM, but they are Monroe (37378) spec'd to OEM (probably makes the ford OEM as the look almost identical) for the sport model. I didn't got with FoMoCo/Motorcraft because well, at 70k mi they were done and had been for a while from what I can tell. So I thought Id try something else. Although is possible that the new shocks could be bad, having the exact same issue on the same side probably rules out the shocks. The parts reused from the old shocks are the boot and the stopper rubber at the top which looked in perfect condition. I did a visual inspection of the bushings, sway bar mounts and related wearable parts - all looked good an nothing out of place. As to a restriction/binding, yep, thats possible right? But I did not have a way to test that movement. I may have to take it in to a shop for a full inspection. I was looking to see if this was a familiar issue with this model. And I agree, it does fell like a bad shock - but what are the chances of the same issue on the same side with new ones?

Tires look good, aligned and tracking perfect .

I have been trying to figure what is going with my rear suspension. As I travel in a straight line of around wide turns, when my rear suspension hits a small series of bumps of imperfections on the road, the rear 'dances', 'hops' or 'chatters' (thats the best desc I can think of) to the right no matter what direction the curve is. It's not noticeable when you hit just one solid bump, but when hit a series of small ones in a row, like ripples, that's you really notice it. There is no noise anywhere otherwise, the suspension sounds solid and the car runs smooth on local roads or highway speeds otherwise. Its just when hitting a series of ripples or bumps. Logic said to check shocks, so I did and I noticed the factory shocks (~70k mi) were seeping. I figured that was it... So I replaced both rear shocks. The issue did not change, it continues hopping. Any experiences with this? Thoughts...? Thanks

My '17 Sport has a Sony audio system that actually sounds pretty good. Good enough to crank it up and get great sound. I like music loud when the sound quality is good - this one can handle it. Just recently I was listening some great tunes when I decided to take up up a notch... And we'll, I was at 28 already (display reading) and took it to the max which is 30. It's still sounded great and without any distortion, so I could have taken it up further and I know the amp is capable of it. However, 30 was the max. Having been in the audio industry in the past, I'm familiar enough with amps, speakers and head units to feel comfortable that this system can handle more. Being that this is all software driven, I'm thinking that this 'max' level is software limited and not an actual amp or head limitation. Anyone here messed with is setting in Forscan? I'd like to believe there's a mod somewhere to allow a higher max. Thanks!

Thank you! This is good information that one hopes to never use. I have in the past with another vehicle and it I found it in the owner's manual, though I have not seen it in this Edge's manual - I may have missed it, or maybe Ford doesn't think it will even be needed - thought they did include the hex hole.

I can also confirm as well that it is available - I just enabled it on my '17 Egde. I am wondering though how to set the actual position desired into memory, because otherwise it just tilts down all the way and I have to adjust it back up - defeating the feature.

The dual filament issue is a non-issue because the DRL goes off when the lights come on. So that leaves the high beams operating on the one filament when the high beams are on, and those housings were originally designed for high beams. As to the power, using a relay you get the power from a good source which can be from several places - that's not a prob The trigger for the relay is a very low draw and it can be done from any source in the headlight that activates when the high beam is selected, like from the HID high beam flapper thing. Frankly, I have built many circuits for electronics and I have never had an issue doing so. I definitely need better headlights than those HIDs, and this might be the solution.

Yes, that is correct. I'd think there's a way to get power to it from the existing wiring. Else - barring that I think can make a simple circuit using a relay to power the hi-beam when the HID triggers the eyelid/flipper that opens the HID for the pseudo hi-beam. There's enough room in the casing to have a small relay just sitting in there. I think that adding that would improve the overall illumination on the road between the two.

The part about the fast flashing to let someone know that a bulb is out is something I'm familiar with. But since no bulbs are out I was wondering what could have caused us to start. And no, I have not installed any LED turn signals. I did not change anything related to turn signals or illumination other than changing the number of flashes, at least that I recall. I will go back and look at the suggestions you're talking about the hyper flash and bulb out indication. As to the DRL and high beam, yes it has an H15 in it and there are three wires going through the connector to the bulb. Are you suggesting that the high beam wire on the other end is not connected to anything? You'd think that Ford would have wanted to save .005 cents for not running that wire there if it's not going to be used, imagine what that would save and weight on the vehicle..? Thanks

Thanks for that explanation - I'm taking it at the type of ODB device is somewhat of a personal choice/opinion apparently, because also I've seen 'don't use an ELM'.

@vegawhat kind of 'programming' are you referring to? The mods listed here with Forscan? Are you saying not to use Forscan with an ODBLink? I bought the ODBLink MX+ as recommended here. Thanks