Tmaf901

This is excellent to know :). I tried the reset but ai don't think I did it right, your explanation was perfect at explaining how to do it. Ill try it next time if it happens again. This vehicle is new to me (3-4 months) it has 40,000 miles on it I haven't changed it at all. If its easy to do I will look into it

Hello, Last night my climate control was working fine however this morning when I started my car up to head to work my climate blower was stuck on full blast. I tried to turn the car off and on multiple time, turn the climate system off and on, turn it down with the physical button and every time I did that it says “Fan 0” as if its at a 0 speed and I couldn't change it at all. I googled and searched this forum for an answer but I couldn't really find anything. My settings when I shut my car off was not auto or anything like that, and the auto light in the sync system was not lit up, however my auto settings for just the defrost/front/feet settings was set to auto, but that didn't extend to the fan box like it would normally. Long story short I just started hitting all the buttons, and every one of them worked (temp would change, actuator would work, heated/cooled seats worked) everything worked except that fan which was stuck on high. I finally was able to hit the “auto” button which didn't change the fan speed at the time, but did put that auto box around the fan setting which was at least something. I turned auto back off and had full fan control again, sort of like it was stuck in an auto all by itself but I had never clicked or had my car in an auto setting for climate, so somewhere along the line my car had changed that setting on its own. I just wanted to tell my story for anybody else who may be having this issue :).

Just wanted to update everybody about my issue, I ended up ordering an aftermarket purge valve to replace the old one. I just put it on today and had my first fill up. Idle seems to be smooth, no rough idling. Im confident this has fixed my issues. The aftermarket part I used specs: Duralast PV967 (V21278) (https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/p/duralast-canister-purge-valve-pv967/591684_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ENM:8362629075&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhMOMBhDhARIsAPVml-GteHZzyPO1AY6HqpvKcC8IfISkt9MCA66sPspWSpCPoI2XRi-tNUgaAi6iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)

I think this issue is related to those check codes me and you posted on the other thread? P144A for me. My vehicle has also had this stutter issue right after fill-up. 38000 miles on it. Go to the dealer on Monday, will reply to one of the threads when I have their diagnosis. Ill add my check code has went off since, but I am sure its still in the system. EDIT: Ive went to the dealer, dealer confirmed P144A code. Dealer suggested replacing that purge valve as stated above, quoted me $185 for the part and 30 minutes if labor. I asked if it would be covered under warranty and sadly he couldn't make it happen. Ive decided Ill buy an aftermarket part for $50-60 and replace it myself, dealership said that was probably a good idea as well.

Hello again, Just recently I had a check engine light pop up with code P144A. A quick search in this forum has one person mentioning this code under another code P1450 where the solution for P1450 was to replace the purge valve. It wasn't really clear to me if the two codes are related to one-another, and if replacing the purge valve will fix my check engine code. If somebody can give me some insight. My original purge valve model is : GL34 9B325 DA Vehicle Reference: 2017 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L ECO

I very much appreciate your reply :). I go to the dealer in 3 weeks (all local fords are busy..) to get an oil change. Im going to suggest to check fluids and give me a suggestion for ones to change. I am using ELM 327 module with OBD Fusion app to check codes. Tires are Pirelle Scorpion STR All Seasons with plenty of tread. No bumps/vibrations, or really anything out of the ordinary. It generally drives great except for that one moment (and the few times of the rough upshift, but that hasn't happened in like 1-2 weeks at least). One thing you did mention was how its supposed to stay in FWD most of the time, however I have always noticed that taking off from any spot, or until I reach at least 25-30MPH, the car stays in an AWD mode (this is displayed on the little dash module when I am in that display setting). The car only exits AWD at cruising speeds. edit: since the original post my cars been just fine… so I am starting to feel as if maybe the car “slipped” even though it was completely dry and sunny, which caused some weird thing to happen in traction control. edit: if a mod/admin can move my topic to the correct place that would be great

Hello, First and foremost, I am unsure if I am posting in the correct topic. I just purchased a 2017 Ford Edge Sport about 2 months ago with 36,500 miles on it. It now has 38,000 now. I have noticed that SOMETIMES, when going at slow speeds 15-30 MPH, the transmission will do a rough upshift where you can feel and hear it click into the next gear. It only happens occasionally but that is the only problem I noticed until today. Today, as I was pulling out of a parking lot onto a 2 lane 45 mile per hour zone. I didn't gun it or anything, I got up to 30 miles an hr, and switched lanes into one with oncoming traffic so I needed to hit the gas a little harder to merge in time. I never really went above 4000 RPM, but upon doing that and once I got into that lane it was as if I wasn't pressing the gas anymore. I didn't really hear anything loud, it just felt as if you were jolted forward because your car stopped accelerating. I got over to the right hand shoulder and noticed I had warning on my dash. I believe more than one. I am aware one of them was “service advance trac” however I shut my car off right after getting it into park (I should have looked at the lights more closely). When turning it back on, there was no lights, and everything has worked fine since…. Its only been about 12 hrs since, and I have driven it about 10 miles, but I wanted to get any insight you guys have. I plugged in my own OBD scanner and couldn't see any codes. Will be taking it to the dealer to see if theres any advanced codes that they can see that I cannot see with my scanner. My thoughts are: * Misfire, causing engine limp mode which may caused advance trac to trigger an error because of the quick deceleration. * AWD malfunction (my car stays in AWD until I am at cruising speeds) * Transmission malfunction…