Tmaf901

Isn't the valve supposed to open after filling up? Maybe it’s not doing so (and failed in that way). I know usually they stick to a semi-open position but this case may be different. You can either see if you can test its actions by connecting whatever voltage controls it (I didn't look it up). And see if it opens-closes correctly. If it doesn't thats your problem. If it does, then check the output of the connector that controls it on the engine, make sure its outputting correctly. 3 years @ 36k is crazy btw. I go 18-20k a year 😅. Lots of idle-time as well - but for the last 3 years I have replaced the purge valve in October or November every year just as it got cold here in New York. Its a different evap code each time too.

Hmmmm back in 2022, and now this problem has come to light again. It happened today. Mileage went “- - - - - -“ all random warning lights and problems. Still definitely feel it’s an electrical problem, maybe it’s time for another new battery 🤔. I checked the battery, its pretty loose in the compartment its in, but I don't recall it ever being strapped in since its been “fixed.” The ground is still pretty tight, and so is the positive. Im so curious if I have been the only person to ever experience this problem with 17’ edge sport. Surely I cant be. 🤯. The battery location is poorly placed. Im super surprised how well my transmission has handled such harsh shifts back to 1st/neutral due to the electrical malfunction. It’s got to be harsh as hell on the car cause it feels harsh as hell.

Hello, I drive mostly in the city, but occasionally outside of the city and my average full tank “miles until E” reading fluctuates very much depending on the week. Granted I know these readings can be pretty inaccurate from time to time, it fluctuates between 290 and 410 miles until E at a full tank. Im curious if other people have this similar problem or if maybe I have something else going on. I have not done my own calculations yet to determine realistic numbers, but I decided to make a post to see if other people have this same issue. My average MPG according to the car is 19 and if you calculate off that, it should have 300 miles until E. What is everybody else's numbers and driving habits?

Just wanted to update everybody on this issue. After taking it to the last dealer I went too, they guaranteed me that placing a new battery and an official OEM ground connection instead of the makeshift ground connection that was originally there would fix my entire problem. I was extremely skeptical but nonetheless I paid the outrageous price to have that done. Its been 6-8 months I want to say now and absolutely no more problems as of now. Seems like it all went away, moral of the story is if you have electrical based issues that make absolutely no sense - check the ground first *facepalm*. Edit on January 6th, 2024. Nearly been a year since this post, never had the problem again. Problem can be marked as 100% fixed at this point.

can I ask if replacing the throttle body fixed this problem?? You described just what I am experiencing on my 2017 ford edge 2.7l 6 cyl… A harsh clunk as if the transmission failed to enter a gear or something. It seems to happen whenever I press the accelerator more than I was previously. For example going up large hills here in NY will require a little more throttle where it will down shift and then I SOMETIMES get a clunk and all these issues. I cleared all previous data (and posted previous data on this forum somewhere) and now its happened 3 times but without throwing any codes or anything anymore… These intermittent undiagnosable issues are so annoying. Everything I read continues to point me back to the throttle body or ECM issue, but why would a throttle body issue make my vehicle clunk when this happens idk..

Dealership stated there was no codes, but I received my OBDLink and used forscan to find these codes. Some of them have dates back to 2018 before I owned the vehicle. Parking Aid Module U0100:00-28 Lost Communication with ECM U0101:00-28 Lost Communication with TCM Rear Gate/Trunk Module B1306:12-08 Liftgate Ajar Switch B144F:11-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk... B145D:11-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk... B145D:12-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk... U0101:87-08 Lost communication with TCM U0294:87-08 Lost communication with Po... Occupant Classification System Module U0401:00-28 Invalid Data received from ECM Cruise Control Module U0401:86-28 Invalid data received from ECM Antilock Braking System U0428:81-60 Invalid Data received from... U0104:00-20 Lost communication with Cr... U3003:16-68 Battery Voltage B1111:53-20 Electric Park Brake Enable P193B:86-20 Throttle/Pedal Signal U0100:00-20 Lost communication with ECM Drivers Door Module B1165:15-08 Left Front Puddle Lamp Output Restraint Control Module B00A0:68-28 Occupant Classification System... Power Steering Control Module U0100:00-08 Lost communication with ECM U0401:00-08 Invalid Data Recieved from ECM Instrument Panel Control Module U0100:00-08 Lost communication with ECM U0104:00-08 Lost Communication with Cr... U3003:16-08 Battery Voltage I've done a lot of research on individual codes. Obviously, there are lots of loss of communication with the ECM. Going to have dealership check computer connections, I guess. If you have any thoughts, feel free to let me know. Some of these codes have a date and freeze-frame data that is dated for 2018 before I owned the car.

Off topic: Its ironic you said that, because I had a dream two nights ago I drove my car into a river on accident lmaoo. Regardless, I feel like there would be more problems. It seems to me like a pcm or tcm problem, or wiring between them idk. Overall, I love the vehicle.

Initially I thought throttle body malfunction, or AWD malfunction. Then with all the different errors that appear on the dash I started thinking PCM failure because it was different each time. The past two times its only been the one wrench icon, and airbag light. Im taking it to ford this morning, they will try to read any data they can on the computer but I am sure they wont be able to pull up anything as they said this last time. Edit: guy that told me to “bring it in as soon as this issue happens so they can at least read codes” 5 days ago says they are too busy today to do that for my car. I scheduled foe the 29th. Im sure any data - if there is - will be long gone by then. ? Edit: I just purchased the OBDLink MX+ to use with forscan lite on my phone will be here tomorrow. As of now all I have is a cheap ELM 327 thing off ebay, so some features may not be available but I plugged it in to read codes and under “parking aid module” I have codes U0100 and U0101. If that helps anybody.

Im not sure if I am allowed to post video links… if not just remove the link or inform me how I can upload a video appropriately to this forum. https://streamable.com/2kk4fl The past two times this has happened was driving only like 40 mph, and this video I was accelerating pretty aggressively to pass a car that pulled out in front of me (on a 4 lane road, 2 in each direction). All that shows up is the wrench icon, no other indicators besides the airbag light. If you notice though, the RPM gauge is fluttering a lot - in park. In drive the engine is even more shaky. It also seemed as if my electric steering assist was a bit harder to turn, I am sure that happened each time I just didn't notice until now as the spot to pull off in required me to turn the wheel as I was going really slowly. I also had to try to accelerate to get across the one lane and to the side of the road, and it didn't seem like my car was really accelerating any. Edit: battery has been secured the best they could BEFORE this happened this time.

So, I was at my friends the other day and her mechanic friend said this exact same thing. We went out to check and my battery is not the official battery. Its another battery, much smaller and isn't even tied down. It has a lot of wiggle room to move around. In addition, the ground wire isn't the official ground wire, its an attachment piece so that it can connect to that battery. Could a battery coming disconnected for a split second cause all these issues to happen? Its just strange because you would think with the bumpy roads I endure it would happen much more frequently, but it only happens upon acceleration into a highway or traffic it seems.

It wasn't just one dealership I went too. I went to one 2 hrs away, and my closest local one. I explained the situation as I have here and told them to look into the computer for any causes. They always come back with not being able to find anything.

I use a simple OBD WIFI tool with OBD Fusion, but I was told by the ford dealer I may not be able to pull up everything stored with that. I took it to the ford dealer each time this has happened, except the last time. They are not able to pull up any data on this situation.

Hello, I kindly ask for anybody's opinion on this specific matter. It's getting quite irritating to have such an intermediate issue with no real direction to go in. I've owned my 2017 Ford Edge Sport for little over a year now. When I first got the car when accelerating (entering highway/passing other cars mostly) my car jolts as if the transmission shifts down and down and down and I get a whole lot of different error messages on my dash and I think it's different messages each time. Transmission Failure, Coolant Failure, AWD Failure, Blindspot Monitoring Failure, Traction Control Failure, etc etc etc. The time of this posting it happened there was only transmission/wrench icon and I decided to try to take a video of the dash but noticed there wasn't many warnings like before however it was the same exact situation I have been in. I noticed this time an airbag light was on. I kept it in drive for a little bit this time, and I was going to see if I could drive it a bit forward after having stopped on the highway, but the engine was very rough sounding and shaking pretty bad. Once I put the vehicle in park the shaking reduced but the RPM was bouncing pretty rapidly between 750-1000. I shut the car off and restarted (and.. everything returns to normal operating conditions). NO DATA IS SAVED ONCE THE VEHICLE IS RESTARTED. NO CODES. NOTHING. I'm just trying to get anybody's opinion to help me in a direction I should take this. This is very clearly going to cause an accident. My theroy is the PCM. Maybe the spark/coil pack. Has ANYBODY experienced this before?? Thank you.

Ask her what exactly happens. Hard shifting by the transmission as shes slowing down. I assume loss of acceleration. All dash lights on? Ive been having a problem with the symptoms above and I truthfully think its to do with the computer module that takes all the sensor data in. I think it errors out and causes this. No stored codes - read by a ford dealer each time. No trace back to and issues. Check engine was on, but it doesn't store the code. Maybe it cant, because the whole ECM is confused and so it cant store any code ?‍♂️. Its a major intermediate saftey issue imo.

Unfortunately by posting here I have manifested the problem back into existence. I had a long drive today (80 miles or so), its damp since it rained last night, humid as well as condensation built on my windshield while driving (the climate wasn't on at the time). About 5-10 miles into my drive this issue happened again for the third time since owning my car. I went to pass a vehicle as I was already in a time crunch and as I was switching over the lane to pass the acceleration stopped. All the warnings came on like last time. A warning I noticed this time was about engine coolant temp. In the past I only seen advance trac, BLIS system and many other warnings but I never toggled through them. I always thought this problem was transmission or AWD malfunction until now. Engine coolant temp wouldn't really have anything to do with transmission/awd system would it? At this point I feel its the main computer board causing this issue. Like it errors out, and doesn't know what to do. Everything tries to go back to their neutral position, hence why the transmission shifts so hard as I am slowing down. It tries its best to get back to a neutral or gear 1 on its own. Thats why I loose acceleration, as the throttle body goes back to whatever position it would be in if it wasn't being used. I didnt catch a video, the last two occurrences the one happened on a highway in a bad spot where I couldn't pull over, and today I was already late to my appointment. Let me know your thoughts :). Edit: would it make sense that the ECM (or whatever the main computer of the car is) is where your trouble codes are stored, and since my whole dash lights up which includes a check engine light but after restarting theres no explanation, nothing logged. Maybe that means the ECM is really failing - because when its in its errored state its not able to store information. Its all sorts of confused.