itsnotdustin

I assume you sold the car already? I was interested in the downpipes and intercooler. Do you have any experience with hollowed out cats on the edge?

Has this sold?

Anyone else selling their old Sway Bar?

1. Since the blow off valve is electric there's no real flutter happening, they more-so just passing "gas". 2. Wastegates are integrated so you're looking at a lot of work to change to external wastegates. Bolt-on upgrade turbos also use integrated wastegates. 3. The Borla cat back is high quality and sounds about as good as a domestic v6 can sound (meh). It's still pretty quiet and only noticeable during acceleration, its silent while cruising and idling. 4. The intakes are mainly just an airbox replacement with cone filters instead of a panel filter. Any intake should do a similar job. There is a "ram air" mod you could do that would involve modifying the panels behind the grille, not sure if it's worth it. 5. Livernois canned tunes or Unleashed custom tunes seem to be equally reputable. Livernois uses a proprietary device while Unleashed uses SCT or HP Tuner devices. I think Unleashed with an HP Tuner device would be the best combo. I have some of the mods, you're asking about recently installed on my Edge. I could get some clips of the exhaust, intake or blow-off if you're interested.

I got the lowering springs installed the on Edge. Gotta say I'm a huge fan. The wheel gap has been reeled in and looks a lot better but still leaves enough height that I don't have to worry about parking curbs or speed bumps. There is some rake still there which I'm not a fan of but it will help out if I ever decide to tow any light loads. The ride quality is a little stiffer than expected but very manageable. With the progressive spring rate, small bumps in the road are only felt slightly more than before, but with bigger bumps the stiffness ramps in quickly and is slightly more jarring than expected. Overall it leaves me confident that the suspension won't bottom out while keeping a comfy ride on normal roads. And with the last of the images uploaded, that leaves me without much else to add to this post. I'd count this as a 2-phase build with intake, exhaust, and tuner being phase 1 and wheels, tires, and springs being phase 2. Phase 3 would probably consist of an intercooler, downpipes, and aa more aggressive tune but I'm not sure when or if that would happen. End goal would be to add the ss-tuning body kit but the cost of that with paint means I need to save some money first. Thanks for checking out the build.

Yes the cap has come off on mine already. There are small detents on the upper airbox that are supposed to hold the cover in place but the cover barely puts any pressure on them to fasten it. Easy fix is to drill a small hole in the upper airbox and throw a small panel fastener in there to hold it in place. I could post a picture but anyone with the intake will know what I mean. it's a small issue, but an issue none the less.

I installed the Draw-tite hitch the same time as the exhaust. There are some good install guides on youtube for this but they dont cover the Sport. The only difference for the Sport I learned is there is a plastic panel with a heat shield that fastens the bottom lip of the bumper to the body. This is removed completely leaving the lower portion of the bumper a tad flimsy. Zip ties were put in place in the meantime until I can make a couple small brackets to fasten the bumper to the body.

The Borla exhaust is now installed. There are some points of concern. 1- The connection from the factory downpipe to the exhaust is very tight. I suggest heating the pipe or widening the pipe a tad before installation. Not a big deal. 2- The exhaust tip lines up fine but its not dead center of the fascia. Its on the inner side of the fascia. 3- The exhaust pipe is the same size as factory - 2 1/4". I was a little surprised stock pipe would be that big. No performance gains expected after learning this. 4- The deal breaker - the resonator makes contact with the driveshaft carrier bearing. I actually crushed the resonator a bit to make it fit. It was a sloppy job but I knew this wasn't going to be a guaranteed fit. With all that said, this is an exhaust for a 2019 Edge ST going on a 2018. My recommendation would be to modify the factory exhaust if you're looking for more sound/flow. Either delete the stock resonator or stock muffler. Since there is no upgrade in pipe diameter, it's not worth going with an aftermarket exhaust since there is no performance increases to be had.

The intake finally arrived after a couple month wait. This was a test fit really since AFE stated that the intake only fit 2019+ Edge ST. Luckily for me it was a bolt-on fit with no issue or modification. This a metal upper airbox with plastic cap that replaces the factory upper airbox. It's latched in with the factory latches. With the cap on, there is no difference in sound and I haven't datalogged intake temps. I doubt temps change much with this setup since the intercooler is the weak link.

I pulled the badges and exhaust tips off. Painted the exhaust tips with flat black header paint and replaced the badges with some options from amazon. Amazon has a metal "Sport" badge similar to the explorer sport. I do not recommend this badge as its smaller than factory and is hollow making the double sided tape have little surface area to stick to. The other badge is a blacked out ecoboost badge 5 1/4" in length. Overall turned out great. I will probably replace the sport badge in the future though. The picture isnt great but I'm more than happy with how it turned out.

That location is also in my install post. The rear panel opposite the factory subwoofer (left panel if you're facing the rear of the vehicle) has multiple ground locations. You'll need to sand paint off the contact area around the hole and use a small nut and bolt to fasten it in place. To get that panel off, you'll need to remove the bottom middle scuff plate (2 tree fasteners need to be removed then it can be popped off). After that plate is removed, youll have to pop the bottom section first near the scuff plate, then pull the panel inward to pop the other fasteners. You will need to slide the rubber weather stripping off the panel to get a grip. The fasteners holding the panels in do not like to be pushed in and out multiple times.....I've had to bend those back into shape pretty much every time i remove the panel. behind my panel were 2 wires grounded and 1 wire just hanging there. Let me know if you have the same. I'm curious what the hanging wire is to.

I have a 2018 Edge Sport with the Sony system. I have a line output converter (LOC) tapped into the subwoofer wires. I have a Skar 1500w amp and 4 10s. The problem: Every time I turn my car on, the subwoofers pulse 3 times. It's a slow but loud pulse/hum. I'm pretty sure it is an issue with the LOC, but before I cut it out and replace with another one, I wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue. I'm using this LOC - https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-40540-NVX-XFLOC2.html Here is the install post for reference - Update: I ordered an Audiocontrol LC1i.....we will see if that fixes the problem. Update 2: I installed the Audiocontrol LC1i and it didn't fix the issue. With more research I found a post saying the ANC (active noise cancelling) could be the issue. Well I opened Forscan, pulled up the DACMC module, and disabled both ANC and Engine Enhancement. Problem solved. https://www.forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8413

I just got done with this install. here is the post - I extended the wires and tapped into the factory subwoofer wires. This will ensure the right frequencies are used. I have the LOC sitting next to the amp in the back. I have a problem though....every time I start the car, the subs pulse a few times...I have yet to solve the issue. I know its LOC/audio feed related.

The fresh air intake mod from @Xtra came in recently. It's amazing what this person can design in their spare time. The fitment wasn't perfect but with a little wiggling, all fasteners snapped right in. Also included where 5 longer fasteners that were needed for the front. Hood needed to be pushed down, I assume that gets easier after a few heat cycles. It will be interesting to see what this does for IAT's. I will be able to data to see if there is any difference.

Update: After install I had a nasty pulse/hum every time I started up the car but stopped shortly after. After some googling I decided to disable Active Noise Cancelling in the car. To do this with FORScan, go to the DACMC module to disable it. You can also disable Engine Noise Enhancement while you're in there. Started the amp install starting with the power wire, which is always the hardest part. I used this forum for help. A couple posts in particular. The first post pointed me in the direction of a large plug on the firewall that is unused. I used a uni-bit to drill a hole just large enough for the wire and ran it through. It's soft rubber so no grommet was required. This plug is accessible behind the battery. I was able to fish the the wire through using a magnetic pick-up which did not require me to unhook the battery, only slide it forward. The second post pointed me to a good ground location near the factory amp. I didn't want to pull any panels unless I had to so I'm glad I found this post because I wouldn't have found a solid ground otherwise. Since I'll be using an LOC for audio signal, I ordered a blown factory Ford sub and will be pulling the green harness of off that to plug into the factory harness. I try to avoid cutting or tapping into factory wires as much as possible, so instead I will unplug the factory sub in the car and wire up the LOC to the spare plug I ordered. The LOC I bought also acts as the fuse/remote wire and will trigger the amp when an audio signal is heard. A note for the picture above: The wire that I have grounded along with the amp wire was just hanging loose when I first looked behind the panel. I don't know if its supposed to be grounded or not. If anyone knows what that ground wire does, I'm curious to find out. Im not much for wire management as long as it is hidden and easily removeable. I drilled a few holes in the foam container. 1 for power, 1 for ground, and a notch for the speaker wires and loc wires. This is the speaker setup I had from my old suv. I will probably get rid of 2 subs and switch from a sealed to a vented box.