DILLARD000

If OxSensors are 10yrs\100kMiles+, they read lean & thus bias the Air+Fuel mix too rich, causing MPGs to drop & CatCons to run hot. So be sure to get those renewed if needed; read live OxSensor data via OBD2 to confirm their signals are in the acceptable\normal range.

Could be, not sure about 2009, my 2008 had original\factory OxSensors made by Bosch, before they were renewed a while back, again with Bosch.

FYI, rodents love to nest in these AirFilter boxes, especially in fall & early winter; a piece of window screen attached across these openings can help prevent that.

Don't remember exactly, been too many years ago; it may just pop out from the inside of the filter box.

I call it the AirFilterBox LeftSide IntakeTube, not sure of the official factory name? It can be removed; been running my 2008 3.5L several years now without it. Believe it's intended to quiet the air flow a bit & provide slightly cooler air from the fender, but I've not noticed a significant difference.

OBD2 DiagTroubleCode p0430 = Exhaust CatCon#2\Left\Front Efficiency Low How many miles on Vehicle\OxSensors\CatCons? OxSensors slowly degrade\fail with Miles\Time as they're chemical-based sensors that deplete with use\age; should be changed every 100kMiles\10Years, along with SparkPlugs+Wires; so if still running 2009 factory OxSensors they're well overdue to be renewed. Old worn out OxSensors tend to bias the Fuel\Air mixture towards rich, so they cost you Mileage+Money & will cause the CatCons to run hot. Your vehicle has 4 OxSensors; 2 UpStream + 2 DownStream = 1 in each ExhaustManifold + 1 in each CatCon. All four OxSensors are 4WireNarrowBand type, are operationally alike & materially similar, excepting longer\shorter 4WireCables. MotorCraft or Bosch (Ford Factory Supplier) is recommended; avoid cheap Asian copies as they're notorious for failing within weeks\months after install. A Bosch 15719 with 24i00 0m610 Long Cable+Plug is good to replace any Ford 4WireNarrowBand Sensor, just ZipTie extra cable away from Hot\Moving parts. The FordMotorCraft parts are 7t4z-9f472-a\7t4z-9f593-a\5f9z-9g444-ab\dy1056, but no need to pay jacked up dealership prices, just buy the Bosch sensors.

2007~2010 Edge 3.5L likely does NOT have the OilCooler; it would be connected to fittings between the block & OilFilter, on front side of the transverse engine, directly below dipstick; should be able to see+check this from underneath.

Good looking 2008 Edge. Have a 2008 EdgeSEL AWD here. Be aware of these NotoriousFailureItems: ~ InternalChainDriven WaterPump in the transverse 3.5L\3.7L, best to change this out every 100kMiles before it leaks coolant into oil & destroys engine. ~ PowerTransferUnit\PTU in AWD models, best to Drill+Tap a drain, then renew 75w140 GearOil every 33kMiles; otherwise this PTU will fail.

From under front, can inspect SerpBelt + AC Compressor; tighten the 3 mounting bolts if needed. When you turn on AC via the dash control knobs, Computer\PCM also starts the dual electric radiator fans, if not already running. So check the fans, that they come on & are operating smoothly (watch, listen & your hand behind radiator to feel air flow) They're VariableSpeed via the PWM module on the upper left of the fan cowling; this module is a NotoriousFailureItem\NFI. Bearings in the fans motors can also go bad; fan assembly can be removed+disassembled; blow dust out of motor coils with compressed air & lube bearings with white lithium. Make sure you don't have broken fan blades, causing vibration.

Thought I'd post this as a reference. Torque Values are what I've gathered from various sources; special thanks to Buck Newby & his most helpful YouTube vids on these vehicles. Please correct+add verified infomation\values as needed.

At 155kMiles, if OxSensors are factory originals, theyre ~55kMiles overdue; will defintely cause bad MPGs as they age. That along with new Plugs should be done every 100kMiles. On a new-to-you 10yo car, change all fluids: Oil+Filter, ATF, Coolant, PTU+Dif GearOil..., syphon+refresh Steering & Brake reservoirs several times. Be aware of the notorious PTU in the AWD models, so get that GearOil changed every 33kMiles. InternalChainDriven WaterPump in these 3.5\3.7L engines is also a NotoriousFailureItem & expensive fix at that; consider pre-empting that failure & get that changed before it craters & destroys engine.

As a reference, pic below is this notorious TimingChainDriven WaterPump showing dual Gaskets\Seals & WeepHoles; long one on lower side of flange & smaller one on upper side of flange. FactoryOE pump has a PlasticImpeller; AfterMarket versions are available with MetalImpeller.

Ditto. Worrying about it is a bit pointless, but certainly be aware of this notorious internal pump design & its history. I do drain+renew engine Oil+Filter every 5kMiles\6Months with 5w20.FullSyn, & Coolant+ThermoStat every 33kMiles\4Years. OwnersGuide Specification#wss-m97b51-a1 for Coolant\AntiFreeze is Gold\Yellow color Ford#vc-7dil; the Gold\Yellow compared to traditional Green has additional CorrosionInhibitors+Lubricants that are beneficial. Products below satisfy these Specs; compare SafetyDataSheet Ingredients for any other Coolant. ~ FordByValvoline# vc-7dil ~ Peak#pkpb53\10x ~ ZerexByValvoline#zxg05ru1 These are HybridOrganicAcidTech\HOAT formulas, do not contain 2EthylHexAcid\2EHA & may be mixed; other Coolants containing 2EHA may damage seals in V6~3.5L~DOHC engines & should NOT be used\mixed. Do NOT use\mix Blue\DarkGreen\LiteGreen\Orange\Pink\Red... As optional prevention, can add ATP#at205 to Oil & KSeal to Coolant; how much this helps\hurts is debatable.

In my case, the pump failed catastrophicly, overheating only a few minutes before wife got it parked in a safe spot & shut down. Have read reports of Coolant "Weeping" slowly or occasionaly from WaterPump WeepHole; such would be a definite warning of pending failure, but not in my case. I routinely check over the vehicles weekly & this car has never previosuly used\lost either coolant or oil. Once I get old WaterPump removed, I expect to find a failed PumpShaftBearing or failed\worndown PlasticImpeller or both, along with the failed Gasket\Seal. Wife mostly drives this car; when I'm driving this car, I use an OBD2~BlueTooth module & SmartPhone app to monitor Temps & other items; this displays more precise temperatures & will show overheating much quicker than the simple slow responding InstrumentCluster gauge. Had an overheat experience a couple of years ago when radiator fan controller stopped working; another NotoriousFailureItem\NFI on these 3.5L engines. Hope you have a trustworthy mechanic; too many bad reports out there on both dealership & independent shops.

Assuming you've got a 2012 MKX V6~3.5L~DOHC ? If you can do it yourself & have another vehicle while this ones down; I'd do it when these notorious internal WaterPumps hit 100k~125kMiles, knowing what I know now. Have here a 2008 Edge V6~3.5L~DOHC at 160kMiles; WaterPump just failed last week; wife was running errands around town in 90f heat; warned her several times about this possibility, to immediately pull over & shutdown engine if+when it happens, which she did. It blew coolant out WaterPump DualSeal WeepHole at FrontRight corner of engine block & OverHeated; checked engine oil on DipStick & in FillCap looked clean without "MilkShake", pulled it home with tow strap behind truck. Out of caution, changed Oil+Filter, then DeadCranked several times with gas pedal to floor. to circulate fresh oil thru engine & mitigate any coolant~oil contamination that happened; still no appearance of MilkShake, so that's good.. Now ordering parts & preparing to pull Engin+Trans+FrontAxle+PTU. Give it a full makeover with new ~ WaterPump, MetalImpeller instead of OE PlasticImpeller ~ OilPump, Melling With 20% More Pres+Flow ~ Timing Chains+Sprockets+Guides+Tensioners+Bolts ~ VVT Solenoids ~ CrankShaft Seals, Front+Rear ~ HarmonicBalancerPulley+Bolt ~ Alternator+AC BeltTensioner ~ Alternator+AC Belt ~ PowerSteering Belt ~ ValveCover GasketKit ~ WaterPump ExtensionTube+Seals ~ IntakeManifold Gaskets ~ Plugs + PCVValve + OxSensors + Hoses + ThermoStat + FanColtroller are <1yr old, so will inspect & reinstall ~ Trans TSS+OSS Sensors & InternalFilterPlate ~ Trans MerconV ATF Change, AmsOil ~ Radiator ~ Left+Right CV Axles ~ PTU With Improved Bearings, Reinstall BottomFumotoDrainValve+TopBreatherHose+SideFillHose+UnderHoodFillCan AddOns\Mods ~ PTU GearOil Change, Half 75w150.FullSyn + Half SAE250.FullSyn, AmsOil ~ BallJoints + TieRods + Shocks ~ Brake Rotors+Pads ~ Renew PowerSteering MerconV ~ Evac+Charge AC System Estimating this will be $1500~$2000 in parts & a couple of weeks of my labor.

How long since last change of Tranny ATF + FrontPTU GearOil + RearDIFF GearOil ? Recommend Tranny ATF change every 4years\33kMiles (MerconV Compatible AmsOil# SSMV.ATF1g preferred here), RearDIFF GearOil change every 4years\33kMiles (FullSyn Half+Half AmsOil# 75w140+SAE250 preferred here), & NotoriousFailureItem FrontPTU GearOil change every 6mths\7500Miles (FullSyn Half+Half AmsOil# 75w140+SAE250 preferred here). If your AWD FrontPTU does not have a drain, consider drilling+tapping+installing a drain.

Yes, you need a basic MultiMeter\VoltMeter. An OBD2 Scanner that can read+reset TroubleCodes is also recommended. Engine shutdown, Battery should read approx 12.8v (newer) ~ 12.3v (older, time to consider a new battery). Engine running after cold start, Battery should read approx 14.0~14.5v = charging. Engine running fully warmed up, Battery should read approx 13.5~14.0v = charged.

Yes. last fall did a road trip in our 2008 EdgeAWDSEL V6~3.5L~DOHC; started at ~148kMiles, now at ~160kMiles. 8kMiles+ thru the Dakotas, Minnesota, Michigan, Ohio, NewYork, NH, Vermont, Maine, then to a Florida beach condo 2wks, then ~2kMiles back home. She ran like a champ, but before doing that, did a full makeover last summer with ~ new Plugs, OxSensors, PCVValve, Belts, Hoses, ThermoStat, RadCap, BrakePads, Battery, Tires... ~ drain & fresh Half+Half 75w140.FullSyn+SAE250.FullSyn AmsOil in both RearDiff & FrontPTU ~ drain & fresh MerconV AmsOil#ATF in Trans ~ drain & fresh 0w30.FullSyn Oil & K&N#hp2009 Filter for Engine ~ drain & flush & fill Peak#pkb53\10x Coolant + KSeal#st5516 additive ~ pushed grease into all driveline Slip+UJoints & silicone spray lube into every orifice I could find. ~ removed+disassembled+cleaned+lubed the ElectricRadiatorFans, they were full of dust+roadkill & bearings needed grease Not long after getting back home, the notorious RadiatorFanControlRelay started causing random engine stalls without any TroubleCodes; took a while to figure out that cause, then easy replacement of that Relay box on top left of RadiatorFanAssembly; so consider carrying a spare. Also added an ElectricCoolingFan+AdjustableTStatSwitch to front of TransCooler, though I don't think it's really needed.

Welcome to a fellow 2008 Edge owner! Is yours 2WD or AWD? If AWD, be sure to frequently drain+refill that notorious PTU with fresh GearOil; I do a half+half 75w140.FullSyn+SAE250.FullSyn AmsOil change on the PTU every 6mths, along with regular Engine Oil+Filter changes. More info at https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23396-ptu-drain-plug-drill-and-tap/?do=findComment&amp;comment=219556 Every couple of years, I also do a fresh change of Coolant, Peak#pkpb53\10x & a little KSeal#st5516 mixed in, to hopefully help prevent the notorious InternalWaterPump failure on that V6~3.5L~DOHC.

Dorman now marketing "Upgraded" PTU for Ford AWD Vehicles, with Drain + HeatShield + BetterSeals. Click here for Video. Refering to part# 600-234XD; considering Dorman's reputation for quality is not stellar; anyone installed this & the result?

Yep, frequency of Oil+Filter changes is more important than brands. Do my vehicles every 6mths: 0w30.FullSyn in Spring, 0w20.FullSyn in Fall In a warmer climate, I'd use Ow30.FullSyn year round. Use K&N# HP series OilFilters; quality is good & they have an EasyOffHexNut built in.

Been running AutoLite xp5364 Iridium Plugs in a 2008 3.5L for a year now with good results. These replaced MotorCraft# ayfs22fm \ sp411 Platinum Plugs which also performed well. Be sure to check OwnersManual for proper OEM part & gap, then cross reference from that. Be sure to check+adjust gap as needed before install; do NOT assume they're gapped correctly.

Suspect it's AutoTransFluid\ATF\MerconV (red\pink color) leaking around right FrontAxle seal at PowerTransferUnit\PTU. Believe it's a double Seal, for both ATF & PTU GearOil. Check your ATF level, see if it's low. Fix is to: ~ remove right FrontAxle, ~ remove old seal, ~ install new seal, ~ re-install right FrontAxle.. Link to vid on replacing this seal. https://youtu.be/fLFFcVHptxs

I'm suspicious of the PTU. I'd try again draining+renewing that GearOi; may be try AmsOil# 75w140.FullSyn or even go to AmsOil# SAE250.FullSyn; what GearOil did your shop use? How aggressive are your new tires compared to your old tires? Did the rumbling start immediately after getting new tires?

Welcome to the forum. TroubleCodes p2196+p2198 = Fuel~Air Mix Stuck Rich Left+Right Banks. How many miles on Vehicle\Engine\Tranny? Has PCVValve & Plugs been renewed, Coils Cleaned+OhmChecked in the last 100kMiles? Is AirFilter clean & AirIntakeBox+PassageWays clear of trash\nests; rodents love to make winter homes in engine bays. Has ThrottleBody & IntakeManifold been cleaned in the last 100kMiles?