DILLARD000

Sounds like good info...link to that spreadsheet & part numbers?

Good info\report. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the DoubleRoller TimingChains+Guides+Tensioners+Gears+WaterPump+OilPump are all for the later\newer 3.7L BoredOut Engin & do not fit the earlier\older 3.5L Engin?

Your avatar\profile does not note your Engin, but if it's the V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC, then you likely had a failure of the InternalTimingChainDriven WaterPump; notorious for failing at the outer PumpGasket &\or at the inner PumpBearing, then dumping Coolant into the OilPan, making that Coolant+Oil "MilkShake", which if run for more than a very short time destroys the Engin. Heard of people being able to flush out the MilkShake, replace the Pump, & get the Engin running again; I'd still be afraid of serious Engin\Bearing damage.

Yep, learned that the hard way. FanControlModule\FCM, mounted on the upper left corner of the FanCowling is a NotoriousFailureItem, along with the electric FanMotors themselves. Many of the aftermarket FCMs (Gates, Dorman, Chinesium,...) claim to be fully compatible replacements but in fact are NOT. Original FordMotorCraft version is PWM Switched on the negative side of the circuit; most of the aftermarket versions are PWM Switched on the positive side. Many aftermarket versions do not fullly communicate with the PCM; do not go full fan speed when needed &\or generate random TroubleCodes. Best to just tolerate the Ford parts money grab & divy up for new OEM ControlModule & FanAssembly.

A possible cause is the RadiatorFans ControlModule, mounted on UpperLeft corner of FanCowling; it's a NotoriousFailureItem, commonly stops responding to Computers FanSpeed signal resulting in engine overheating when idling or in Stop+GoTraffic. Replace with new MotorCraft OEM part only; aftermarket offbrand replacements are often not fully compatible or fail quickly.

Doing the WaterPump is not an easy simple job, either with engine in or out of the vehicle.

Welcome to the Herd! Lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums. Sounds like you're doing good getting your Edge in proper order. Be sure to renew the GearOil in the AWD front axle PTU & rear axle Diff; strongly recommend Drilling+Tapping a Drain & a FumotoDrainValve for that PTU. At 172kMiles, I suspect your PTU has already been changed out or is about to fail if never serviced. Click here for more info on Drain+Vent+Fill mods for PTU. You're likely already aware of the notorious InternalChainDriven WaterPump in these transverse V6~3.5L~DOHC engines; keeping ThermoStat+Coolant new+clean & making sure RadiatorFans+ControlModule are working helps prevent\delay that Pump failure. Click here for more info on replacing WaterPump.

No, this forum is as "social" as I get. Can post vid to YT, then give us a link.

Nothing simple about changing water pump on these transverse V6-3.5L-DOHC Engines; its buried inside behind the TimingChains!

Yep. If you've opened up your V6~3.5L~SOHC Engines TimingCover & removed various TimingComponents to get at & replace the WaterPump, lots of possibilities: * did this get initiated because of a WaterPump failure; if so did Coolant get mixed with Oil to make a "MilkShake" & damage the Engine block? * exactly what Components were renewed or reused; did you use MotorCraft\Cloyes\Melling parts & or cheaper\notorious offbrand parts? * did you renew\upgrade the OilPump while you were in there; if so hopefully MotorCraft\Melling? * while removing+replacing TimingComponents, did you take care to properly position engine at TDC; did you use any Cam locking jigs? * was Engine in vehicle or did you completely remove Engine+Transmission+PTU while doing this Timing+Pump work? * were all Seals+Gaskets+PCVValve+Hoses renewed? * were Injectors+Plugs+Coils renewed\reused & properly gapped, seated & connected.

Yep, take a close patient look at your electrical connections; suspect while working on SparkPlugs, harness sockets+plugs got disturbed or forgot to reconnect FuelInjector#6 (cylinder on the front left of the engine) & MassAirFlow\MAFSensor (mounted in AirDuct between the AirFilterBox & ThrottleBody). MAFSensor has a red sliding latch on the underside of the harness socket, easy to reach, just need to know its there: * pull the red latch out to unlock before disconnecting * push the red latch in to relock after re-connecting Fortunately do NOT need to remove UpperIntakeManifold to get at Injector6 harness connection; also easy to reach on top front left of engine V.

Welcome to the Herd! Lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums.

Yep, about 30minutes, easy to replace: * Unplug MAFSensor on AirDuct * Remove top+bottom of AirFilterBox with AirDuct+MAFSensor to get it out of the way * Unplug VehicleHarness side of FanControlModule * Unplug FanHarness side of FanControlModule * Install new FCM & re-install above items Basic test of new FCM: * Start Engin cold, idling with AC off: RadiatorFans should be off * Switch AC on to minimum cooling, 1st position left from center, temp control on cold: RadiatorFans should come on 25%Speed or faster Full test of new FCM can be done with ForScan on a Windows Laptop & an OBD2~USB module like the OBDLink#EX. Video on replacing the FCM, though recommend a MotorCraft part, not Gates:

Sounds suspiciously like same problem I had a couple of years ago on a 2008 Edge SELAWD. With AC on, engin RPMs would randomly dip momentarily or engin may fully stall when at a Stop Sign\Light, then engin would start again fine Was not getting any OBD2 TroubleCodes at all, so it was a matter of replacing parts 1 at a time until I found something that helped. Turned out to be the damned Radiator FanControlModule was randomly shorting out the fan speed signal wire from the PCM\Computer, causing the PCM to die momentarily; tried several cheaper aftermarket FCMs (Gates, Dorman...), found them not fully compatible with PCM, so recommend only using OEM Ford part MotorCraft# 7t43-8c607-ag \ 7t43-8c609-ab \ 7t4z-8b658-a; this is the FCM for the 2007~2010 Edge without a TowRated Radiator package. Be ware the local parts house (Oreilly, Advanced, ...) & Amazon\Ebay will try to sell you an aftermarket offbrand version; there is confusion\misinformation amongst both manufacturers+vendors on compatibility of this part. FCM is mounted on upper left corner of RadiatorFanCowling, plugged into VehcileHarness & FanHarness.

I'd hold on any cross country road trips, especially during the heat of midsummer in Kansas+Colorado, until you've done a full round of maintenance: Coolant, TStat, PressureCap, Oil+Filter, ATF, Brakes... and driven it a few hundred miles locally & have more confidence that its road ready. See these threads for more on my adventures in replacing a failed WaterPump in a V6~3.5L~DOHC: https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/31495-help-with-leak-diagnosis-update/?do=findComment&comment=230561 https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/31379-water-pump-early-leak-detection/?do=findComment&comment=229914

Welcome to the Herd! Lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums. Consider yourself lucky that you do NOT have AWD; the AWD PowerTransferUnit\PTU is a NotoriousFailureItem, difficult to maintain & expensive to replace. FrontWheelDriveOnly on these vehicles is very stable+strong, works fine in rain+mud+snow with the right tires; should get you anywhere you want\need to go, excepting the most difficult offroad trails. Watch out for another NotoriousFailureItem on this V6~3.5L~DOHC Engin, which is the InternalChainDriven WaterPump; if WaterPump CenterBearing or InnerSeal fails; you get Coolant dumped into the OilPan, that in turn gets mixed with Oil & destroys the Engin. It helps to renew ThermoStat+PressureCap+Coolant routinely every 4yrs\32kMiles with Zerex#G05 or Peak#10X or MotorCraft#Gold, but Pump can still fail at any time. Crazy big pain to change pump, must remove Engin & ValveCovers & TimingCover+Chains+Guides. Also watch for yet another NotoriousFailureItem, the RadiatorFanControlModule\FCM; commonly fails & causes engine overheating. Replace with only FordMotorCraft OEM part; aftermarket\offbrand replacements are known to fail often & are NOT fully compatible with Computer\PCM.

@Jim_B Above OBD2 info is good, but have you inspected+cleaned+tightened the connections at Battery & MegaFuse & AlternatorPower+Control & Starter & Grounds, then done a basic VoltMeter check? * Volts@BatteryTerminals with KeyOffEnginOff should be >12.2v. If lower, put a Charger on the Battery for 4+ hours, then check again. Battery should hold a charge at least a week without fading. * Volts@BatteryTerminals with KeyOnEnginIdling should be >14v@ColdStart then decreasing to >13.5v@WarmUp. If lower, then Alternator is suspect. Hopefully this helps. PS: In my 2008 FordEdgeAWD, over the years have upgraded Battery from Stock Size36R 650cca to a SizeH6 730cca (the largest physical size that would fit in the stock BatteryTray), & upgraded BatteryTerminals from Stock to 4BoltBrass Lugs (tired of constantly cleaning+tightening skimpy stock Terminals).

Hopefully PTU bearings are not shot & will last a bit longer...maybe...maybe not. May want to prepare mentally+financially to replace PTU. Amen on routinely renewing the GearOil; I do it now once a year with every other Engin Oil+Filter change. Highly recommend drilling+tapping & installing a PTU drain with FumotoValve if yours does not already have one.

Suspect its a PTU problem; maybe too late if GearOil has never been changed. For a 15yo 2008 EdgeAWD, if PTU GearOil has never been checked or changed, lucky to have gotten this far down the road; should be done at least every 33kMiles\4Yrs. Personal preference here is every 8kMiles\1Yr refresh PTU 75w140.FullSyn AmsOil.

For a 16yo 2007 Edge, if fluids for RDU\PTU\Brake\Trans\Engin\... have never been changed, yes it should be changed; lucky to have gotten this far down the road. * Every 33kMiles\4Yrs, RDU 75w90.FullSyn +Trans MerconV + Coolant Peak.10x * Every 8kMiles\1Yr: PTU 75w140.FullSyn AmsOil * Every 4kMiles\6Mths: Engin Filter+Oil , Steering reservoir suction+refresh MerconV, Brake reservoir suction+refresh DOT4

Welcome to the Herd! Best to be aware of the NotoriousFailureItems in your V6~3.5L~DOHC powered 2007 Edge AWD: * PTU: suction out & renew GearOil now & at least every 33kMiles\4Yrs; personal preference is every 8Kmiles\1Yr; best to Drilll+Tap a Drain * InternalChainDriven WaterPump; no real fix for this, if inner seal or bearing fails it will put Coolant into OilPan & destroy engine * Radiator Fan Control Module on upper left of FanCowling, fails & causes overheat; replace with MotorCraft only, not aftermarket.

Can you tell what is the color of the leaking fluid? If thinner red\pink, then it's likely Trans MerconV ATF leaking. If thicker\darker\black, then it's likely PTU GearOil. May want to try a carwash with a bottom spray wash or use BrakeCleaner to clean up the area, then trace any fresh leaking fluid to it's highest originating spot.

First thing, need basic vehicle specs (Year+Model \ Engin \Trans \ 2WD or AWD \...) in your Threads + Signature + Avatar + Profile; no one is able to give you worthy answers without this info Think you mean p0456 = EvapSystem Small Leak

@Haz Yep that's the Capacitor part# 18801, just a little black box about 1"square with a wire pigtail & spade connections. It's mounted on the FireWall frame ground post next to the PCM, pigtail end connects to the Engine ground, so no direct connection to the 12 coil supply, kinda weird. But seems to work as there is no ignition static on the 2008 stock AM\FM radio.

Do it yourself. Likely a YT vid out there on this. Tell the stealership to find someone else to victimize.