MetalAnon

Thank you for the replies. I had not considered the tensioner, but as I was reaching in to check the belt tension, my arm brushed up against the coolant overflow hose, that plastic line that run across the top of the engine to the stat housing, it snapped like a twig. So my attention turned to that. Found a new line at the local stealer shop and proceeded to start the repair. However, when removing the line from the stat housing, the end of it that interfaces with the hole, broke off inside the port, so now the new line will not seat. Fucking planned obsolescence!!! I have tried everything I can think of to get the piece out. Picks, screw drivers, compressed air, I even tried turning a screw into the damn thing like a puller, to no avail. It is stuck! I really, REALLY want to avoid damaging the thermostat housing for obvious reasons. Thus, my tentative approach to remove the stuck connector end, but I gotta figure this out. Here’s a couple pics… if more pics needed let me know… any ideas? then I will check then tensioner… ffs.

2016 Sport… new batt, alt and belt less than a year ago install by our local stealership. Belt randomly started squeeling a bit while idle at a stop light yesterday. No codes. I connected a voltmeter and found, while idling OR under acceleration, any amount of pedal, the voltage is ~11.5 volts, discharging. However, if pedal is lifted completely, coasting, at speed over ~5 mph, voltage goes to ~13.4 volts and remains there until applying pedal again or coming to a stop. Almost as if throttle body is shorting out, although I can’t explain what’s causing the volt drop at idle. It’s not draining the battery enough to cause starting problems, but it is definitely hitting the batt hard as it read exactly 12v after sitting over night. Turning on amp hungry systems such as seat heaters or fan on high seems not to have any detrimental effect and everything seems to be functioning properly besides the voltage dropping below 12 volts like it is. Also, while investigating this, I noticed that the battery warning light does not illuminate during the start up self test. It seems like it should and I know it works as it lit up and flashed properly when I reset the BMS last night. That didn’t seem to help. Can anyone please verify that the battery light does indeed come on momentarily at start up? It should I’d think, can’t find that particular info anywhere, just want to be certain. Any input on this weirdo issue is requested. Thanks ahead of time!!!

GREAT post @Haz! It's been awhile since I checked on this thread, but I have been thinking about an idea in the interim that I have not seen anyone else bring up... and the workshop manual informations piqued my interest further, should be quite helpful. Specifically, I am seeking to make use of the DRL positions (inboard spots in the housing) since I personally disable the DRLs and they are wasting space. I'm looking to make the those inboard positions function as and with the high beams, in addition to the (low/high shutter) high beams in the outboard positions. So that when the high beams are activated, our Edge would have four bulbs to throw an obscene amount of forward light down the road. So since I have swapped out the factory D3S HID bulbs to aftermarket LED D3S bulbs which simply plug n play with the factory HID ballasts. The shutter the HIDs utilize also made the swap easier and the LEDs work supremely and considerably brighter than the OE HID bulbs without blinding oncoming drivers. I hadn't considered Ford's use of the Field Effect Transistor (FET) in the BCM, so ironing that out may require additional brain power but I'll cross that bridge once im there. So the idea is to splice a pigtail into the HID high beam wiring and install it in the DRL position but I haven't examined it in detail yet. I just wanted to post something about it while I was here and had it on my mind. Damn life has been hectic lately and I have been known to forget things before I get them down on a bar napkin. Should prolly start another post for such a project but I thought this thread would be a good a place as any for sharing. Ok now I gotta get some sleep.

Could this be the problem? I realize this is a 2.0L Ecoboost in the video, but like he says, this rattle he refers to is not an engine problem it a turbo problem and could easily happen to a 2.7L Ecoboost. Not sure if this is your problem but at least you can compare the sound. HTH

Disabling DRLs through the cluster only affects the inboard (high beam position) and should not have any influence on the outboard bulb position. At least on our 2016 Sport with factory HID projectors, that’s how it works.

Solution to this problem...

I just came across this FordTechMakULoco vid yesterday. It's not directly the same problem, but Brian explains the door/hood switch issue common to our beloved Fords. Interesting if not helpful at least. Hope it helps someone. www. youtube.com/watch?v=xBc_QHj3wlM

I bought these for our 2016 Sport... LOVE 'em!!! Bullvision D3S LEDs 45w per bulb (90w per pair) 6500K... Direct replacements that use the factory HID ballasts. 100% Plug n play . They are much brighter and whiter than the miserable factory HIDs and match our signature lights down below. We've had not a single issue with these bulbs what-so-ever for almost two years in MN. Through our hot and humid summers clear down to -14F degrees ambient temp, (-40F with wind chill) just a few days ago. Not even a flicker! Hope this helps! LINK: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802757275161.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.65.463718025ADulY&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

Not to nitpick an "ASE master tech", but I think you mean valve train? I'm pretty sure the "drivetrain" needs not be removed to do the 3.5L water pump. Just sayin'. ?

Welcome! Good to see another Minnesota Edge pilot joinin' the fray.

Whoops, my bad for confusing this. ? Thanks for pointing out my mistake @omar302, will help for future reference indeed.

Found this on the Forscan forum, apparently there's even a TSB that addresses the greyed out climate control menu options within remote start menu... https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11666 Turns out @WWWPerfA_ZN0W (not MACT lol) shared this TSB previously here...

Thanks man... you are a wealth of knowledge! That setup then seems kinda wasteful from an engineering standpoint. Guess I'll have to do some digging to find out more about the housing's durability. OR... perhaps, since the H15 is dual filament, we could simply run a jumper and/or relay from the high beam circuit to that unused 55w filament... things that make ya go hmmmm....?