kapk22

Okay , then I will have them check the fuel pressure Monday. And hold off on the sensor.

This is very helpful. Thank you. Looks like there’s just the one to replace. I am thinking I may be able to swap that out, since I was able to get those plugs done. Lot different than my old in-line six on the 1990 Jeep Wrangler

they quoted $700+ to replace the pump.

Shop is going to look at it next Monday, no additional diagnostics fee. They waited $260 to replace the crankshaft position sensor. But they said it’s uncommon for them to go out. I’m totally confused as to where the crankshaft position sensor is.

Yeah, someone mentioned this. I don’t know how to get to it. Unless it’s inside the tank, with the pump.

The car did the long crank three times yesterday. I’m getting sick of this thing.

I did not take a picture of them. They were definitely gapped substantially more than the new iridium NGKs. The side/ground electrode on all of them were noticeably bent upward and a couple had cracks around the base area, near the threads. They also appeared charred, kind of a whitish gray, leading me to believe the engine was running lean. This makes sense, as one of the initial codes months back indicated so. The bottom portion, or “center electrode” also appeared to be somewhat disintegrated on them, if that makes sense. she drove the car today and it did not have a long crank any of the times she started it. I asked her to describe the difference between how the car started before and after the new plugs. She said, “there’s no hesitation, it’s like a 19-20 year old getting up off the couch vs a 60-70 year old”. ? I asked her if there was any change in the way it drove, specifically how it idled or accelerated and she said no. I am thinking, we will wait a week or week and a half to see if the long crank comes back. If it doesn’t, great. If it does, then we are on to the last two or three possibilities. Camshaft position sensors, fuel pump/fuel filter. Thank you again for taking the time to respond/help.

we took the car in to the “mechanic” last week and they were able to replicate the issue. They told us they were confident it was spark plug related, after the mechanic found one of them with a gap of 100. They said the standard gap for the plugs is 60 and believed the “spark was bouncing around, causing the computer to be confused”. while doing their “diagnostics” the mechanic cleaned the throttle body and the initial charge for diagnostics/trouble shooting was $120. They told me replacement plugs cost $18.99. I asked what the total cost would be for them to swap the new plugs and they said $500 and some change. This included the initial $120. i got off the phone and called a local parts store who had the recommended iridium plugs for $8.99 each. After watching several videos and approximately four hours, I completed the mission last night. The existing plugs appeared to be the ones that came from the factory 120k miles ago. They were a bi!$h to get out and two were actually cracked. When I started the car for the first time, I noticed it turned over a bit long. The crank was not as long as it had been previously, however, it was not normal (still). Angela drive the car today and said it did not do the long crank thing at all. She also said it seemed to be running noticeably “smoother” than before. I cannot say it ever really ran rough, or with any kind of noticeable miss before. I initially found it hard to believe spark plugs could be causing the long crank issue. However, I am also not a mechanic, and I really don’t have much knowledge when it comes to the computers in the newer vehicles. we plan on giving it a week to see if it goes back to the long cranking. As I mentioned before, the car did not have the issue for almost a week after I replaced the battery. If it goes past a full week, it’s possible that they were right about the plugs. I am a little confused about the way it started the first turn though. as always, any thoughts/ideas, suggestions are appreciated. thanks everyone

That’s what I thought I saw on YouTube. With the fuel range changing (plus 70 miles) after putting the new battery and mass airflow sensor in, it kinda makes sense. If the pcm is re-learning, maybe a faulty camshaft position sensor keeps causing it to happen. Or the fuel pump, or fuel pump check valve… FML. I guess we shall see what the mechanic ends up finding. I will check the fuses today, just in case it’s a simple fix. Wouldn’t that be cool. Thanks again for the help.

78 miles no codes thrown are there two camshaft position sensors ?

wwwperfa_zn0w suggested the new camshaft position sensor previously. I haven’t ordered one yet. Torn between buying another part and waiting to have the shop check the fuel pressure and having the actual mechanic troubleshooting on the 26th.

Update, it didn’t do for almost an entire week and then did just now. So weird.

I’m glad you mentioned this. When the battery went down, I was confused at first. Then I remembered reading something about the brake pedal having something to do with the original issue. I couldn’t find anything on it. Thanks for the help again. I will check on these next.

well, I ended up pouring a bottle of Berryman B12 in the full gas tank and no changes. then, the battery died on us. We purchased it last year, so it was warrantied. My guess is, the battery gave up after having to turn over so much all the time. at the same time I replaced the battery, I swapped the new mass airflow sensor in. First time I turned it over, it cranked a few times and then started. Angela told me it had never done this before, it only cranked a while and stopped on its own. the next few days the car did the long crank as usual. Then, today,, she noticed the fuel range went seventy miles up when she filled the tank. She also has not had the long crank happen. my question now is, could it be possible that the new mass airflow sensor is the fix and the computer had to adjust? the gained mileage would make sense, as it was likely running lean. crossing our fingers.

Correct. No codes. That’s why the dealership said they couldn’t find anything. they said they had it on their diagnostics computer and “checked all systems”. they also said they could not do the “smoke test” because the car is a 2010 and did not have the “port” for them to plug it in. This is why I chose to schedule an appointment for an actual mechanic to check the fuel pressure.