magnum3672

We cleaned all of the grounds up and checked the wiring for any other corrosion and it did get marginally better after that, however it was still having issues. We actually cleaned every ground we could find and double checked for corrosion in and underneath the engine fuse box. The reason we chased it down to the PCM is the system runs absolutely fine with the alternator running in "default" aka having the alternator unplugged from the PCM.

I haven't seen much posted specifically about this so I thought I'd document my struggles with this car. Info : 2011 Ford Edge SEL 2WD with about 160,000 miles clocked Background: About a year ago I started having a few electrical hiccups and after taking it to my shop/friend he diagnosed a bad alternator. At that time it was pretty much just having trouble starting after a couple days of sitting (like a long weekend) and after the alternator replacement all was good. At that time I decided to replace the battery as well because he said it was probably on it's last legs. After replacing both of those everything seemed fine on the car and I continued to use/abuse it pretty much daily. Then last february we went on a longer trip and the car sat for 2 weeks. Upon getting home the battery was completely dead and my charger at home couldnt/wouldn't charge it up. I took it to the store I bought it from (it was only a few months old at this point) and they were able to charge it and test it and it came back good. I put it back in the car and everything seemed to be alright for a short period. As the seasons changed though I started getting weird behavior. When I started driving it to work in the morning during the surface streets driving (before I hit the highway) the blower fan and then the interior lights were flickering on and off. Added to this it would occasionally stall during idle especially during stop and go traffic. To address the stalling I replaced the throttle body myself and did the relearn process. However, after replacing the throttle body the stalling and blower/interior light flickering became worse. Off I went to my mechanic friends shop. While we were there we saw a partially chewed fuel injector wire and thought that that could be part of the issue so we patched that up. On trying to leave the shop though the problems resurfaced and for once the mechanics got to see the issues first hand! We tore through the electrical and charging systems and narrowed down the issue to PROBABLY being a bad regulator signal from the PCM. Our method for going that direction was checking the charging volts via a multimeter and also seeing what the car was reporting via OBD2. The multimeter showed 15+ volts while the car was running with accessories on and the diagnosis tool was showing the cars computer was reporting at most 14.8 volts. We then checked voltages again after unplugging the alternator from the PCM/ECU. With the alternator unplugged from the PCM and going into "default" mode (not sure if there is a technical term for this) the car seemingly has gone back to a good driving state. The blower fan has shut off and on twice but both times that was when the car threw the "check charging system" warning at the same time so I'm assuming it is related to that. My next steps are to buy a refurbished and programmed PCM/ECU and throw that in, plug the alternator back into the system and see if that officially fixes my symptoms. I'm not sure if anyone else has seen something similar but please chime in on your processes and I will update once I have the new PCM installed.

My exhaust disconnected between the flexible joint and the pipe leading to the muffler. I believe the exhaust is 2.5" diameter but does anyone know if I need a special clamp or anything to reconnect these parts? It's all in good condition, just not connected at the moment. Thanks

I went to an auto supplier and got my codes read. The only 2 that popped up was an ABS issue (but no light on and I just had the brakes done less than a year ago) and a charging system issue (again, just had alternator and battery replaced less than a year ago). I haven't had any issues since the initial one other than the flex joint on my exhaust detaching from the rear section of the exhaust so now it sounds like a hot rod until I fix that.

One, I didn't see a check engine light and 2 I plugged my OBD2 reader in and didn't see anything.

So, I was driving this morning and there was about 2 miles of stop and go traffic before I was going into work. Car seemed fine, idled low sometimes (like a downsurge) but the AC was on and I attribute that to the AC compressor kicking on. When I went to turn into my office I suddenly lost power steering and the engine cut out. Maintenance has been fine on this car, it recently had a bunch of work done to the emissions equipment and a full fluid work up. Doesn't appear that any codes were thrown which is the extra odd part. This is the first time this has happened. Car has 130,000-ish miles on it but hasn't had any major issues until now. It is an SEL trim. Any help you guys can give me would be great. I can turn a wrench on some of the easier stuff so if there's an inexpensive part that won't take me long to swap I'd like to try that first before taking it to a mechanic to chase ghosts. Thanks

That would be great and way cheaper than every other method I've found! Thank you so much!

I was hoping for an aftermarket option as well since the preprogrammed APIM's I've been able to find are $600 and I have no faith that the system will continue to work. Thanks

I can't find any resources with a straight answer so I'm hoping I can come here and ask, even though I'm sure it's asked a lot. I have a 2011 Ford Edge with the MyFord Touch system. It's dead like a lot of other peoples. Is there a replacement that is NOT the MyFord touch for these things. If I have to, I will replace the APIM for 600 bucks but if I can, I will swap it for something better/cheaper (whichever makes more sense). So if anyone has any resources or can point me in the right direction I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks