bscott94

Well it finally happened. I got home Friday and the cover was missing. I think it was blown off in the touchless carwash. It only took like 15 trips through it. I ordered a used one on Ebay but it's white so I'm going to try to wrap it in in black carbon fiber vinyl. We'll see how that looks. @omar302, do you have the file for this in the instructions? 1. Lower the headliner. Refer to: Headliner ­ Lowering (501­05 Interior Trim and Ornamentation, Removal and Installation).

I would try a wash and hand polish. I use mostly Adam's Polishes and have used this product before so that's my suggestion. Any light polish should work though. https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-revive-fine-hand-car-polish?_pos=1&_sid=25c2bdc8d&_ss=r

I've searched on here and on Google and can't really find what I'm looking for. I'm trying to hard wire a dashcam that came with fuse taps. It has one tap for an ignition source for regular duty and then one for constant for parking mode. I see a lot of unused fuses in this breakdown. Is there somewhere that will tell me which of these are ignition and which are constant? I assume these spares are hot? If not, what should I use that is hot.

Does this say there is a new oil pan? With a built in gasket? I was just going to deal with the leaking pan since it's been replaced at least twice but if there's a better replacement now, I might have to call. I see the Warranty Status section but I don't understand it. Do you know if this covers anything with the issue? I just hit 69k miles on a 2017

I wouldn't try. I got a spring compressor kit from Harbor Freight for $35 and it worked perfectly.

I love it. Except I hit my head on the hatch now even with the top point saved. I live in Indianapolis so not many twisty roads but I'm 30 seconds from Carmel, the city of roundabouts so I get my need for twisties from those. It is much more flat ripping through roundies!

Installed B6 Springs and Struts and H&R lowering springs. It's not super low but way better

Moving to the rear. I found the following on rear subframe replacement as I've read dropping the subframe makes rear spring replacement easier. I don't need to completely remove the subframe so the workshop manual section has a lot of extra steps. Do I just need to remove the shocks, put a jack under the diff and mark and remove the 4 bolts from the first part of the workshop manual, and lower it slightly to pull out the springs?

Thank you! That is very helpful. I ordered everything suggested/available from Tire Rack/RockAuto hoping I could assembly the new struts before I take everything apart but it looks like I'll reuse some rubber seats and other small items from the stock set up.

@Haz, can you share the strut info from the workshop manual? Would that be different than the Haynes manual? I know it won't be the exact same as the Bilstein strut by hopefully it's the same components.

Does anyone have a video or pictures that show how to assemble B6 struts with H&R springs? I think I ordered everything I needed but I can't make things fit together how I would expect them to. I found the link below but it's H&R Springs on stock struts. I can't find anything that lists the other parts that are needed to complete a strut. I have the Haynes Manual and it shows stock struts but it still seems like something is missing. Below is what I have. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wQ3WRD6zvzHaAbxE3hCZpyKIwbBI3-Gs/view

Mine hasn't broken off completely but I think the only screws that haven't broken are along the back. I don't want to do all of the work to remove the unit so I might just break it off the rest of the way and carefully epoxy it back on. I have looked around on here to see this situation and never found it. I wish I could just buy the cover but I don't think it's sold separately.

This thing is sweet! What part of Indiana are you in? I recognize IRP in a few of those pictures. Also, since this is bagged now, what are you doing with those H&R springs?!

I have a 2017 Sport and I felt/heard bad thumping when going through roundabouts. I think it was during the 2-3 shift. I'm not sure if It was because I kinda "launch" into the RAB in second, coast to the middle of the RAB, then accelerate out. I think the 2-3 shift was happening during my coast and then the acceleration was slamming it into gear or something. I reset the TCM in ForScan and it seems to be less aggressive. I don't know if it actually did anything or not but it seems like the reset helped at least a little bit.

The PDF from the comment below has a good diagram showing the part. I ordered my part off of Rock Auto. I picked my car and it showed me the correct parts. I think it was around $50