CrackedDSM

Definitely have to measure the content. Elsewise you’re just guessing and that could be catastrophic. Thankfully the trims and a few other indicators will be throwing up red flags when he views your logs, but I would definitely spend the $15 for an e85 test kit off of amazon. Worst case scenario you can use a baby bottle or any kind of 100mL test tube and a math formula if you’re cheap. Lol.

Honestly what I did was fill the gas tank first, then drove super gently home not hitting boost. With e30-e50 the stock ecu can adjust cruising and idle trims enough to be safe. Won’t be perfect and I wouldn’t drive like that forever. Lol, but these ecus are awesome. Thing I like about this way is it gives more time for the fuel to properly mix in your tank. Hit some bumps, take a curvy road, if no one is around at low speeds do the “clean your tires” trick of pulling the wheel back and forth like your doing the worlds smallest, slowest, invisible slalom course. Lol. Let us know the difference it makes though! Super curious. If you were closer to nc I’d lend you my dragy.

That’s honestly what needs to happen on mine. I need stickier tires and losing some rotating mass in the process wouldn’t be bad either. But even just a tire change would help immensely. What I have to do to avoid spinning on the line is brake boost to 2200, hold about half throttle, release brake, continue to hold half throttle til it gets around 20-30, then floor it. If I could do a proper full rip launch that’d be great. But honestly it’s gotta be something with the trans. I’ve heard there’s some transmission gear they can’t tune around that kills life after 60, maybe that’s whats going on.

Those are good numbers but I can see what you mean when you say the top end kills you. That’s crazy! You can see on mine where traction kills me. If I can get the 0-60 down to 4.6-4.7 I’d be booking. Need moar traction! You have the altitude advantage too, I saw in one of your dragy results your DA was negative 1100. Lol, I’m jealous of that for sure. It’s definitely gotta be something exclusive to the edge ST tune because the top end difference on mine is phenomenal. In the 93 tune I was so disappointed at the top end. On e30 it’s straight ridiculous. These tigerpaw 245’s gotta go, man. No traction is killing me. I’m willing to bet at an actual drag strip I’d get better results because of the prep and be in the 12’s. I do eventually want to go with lightwheels wheels and some sticky tires but one step at a time. Currently getting my EMT certs so time and money is at a premium. Couldn't hurt to reach out to LMS and say hey, this douche in an edge sport has way better top end on his e30 tune than I do, is there something different in the st tune? Edit: just thought of something, how are you blending your e30? Are you testing the e85 and then mixing based off of that? Or are you just mixing e85 and pump without testing?

Also: here’s a before and after 0-60. First pic is before second is after.

Yep, I sure do. LMS 93, 100% stock everything else. Spun a little bit, top end not nearly as good. LMS E30 tune, stock everything else, same tires, same everything as before. Traction is a joke at this point, all four wheels spin like crazy, have to feather it/keep 50% throttle when launching to get a good launch. Throttle response much better, mid range better, top end HUGE improvement. With a better launch/more traction it’d be in the 12’s easily. maybe theres something wrong with your car or maybe the tune wasn’t actually uploaded. Made a significant difference in mine.

I second the full synthetic oil, especially for turbo engines. Cost is honestly not that much more than a QUALITY synthetic blend, and you get better protection/mileage from Full Syn.

I’d ask torrie if he’d be willing to do an e30-e50 tune for you. My LMS E30 tune really make a significant difference in power compared to 93. If torrie can’t or won’t then I’d try ZFG. I don’t think you’ve got much to lose either way.

I actually made a youtube video showing where I put my foot to activate my hands-free lift gate. Hopefully this helps if you have the same style of hitch as I do. Hope this helps! It works for me everytime.

Hey guys, I’m hoping someone can hook me up with a diagnostic procedure for this code. 2015 Ford Edge Sport AWD Cliffnotes/history: ABS, traction control, stability control, and park aid are all turned off/lights on dashboard. Car had one code for the right rear abs sensor and it got replaced. Now there is a code U0415 - Invalid Data Received from ABS control module. This car has had a front end collision before, not sure if relevant. I checked over the harness and saw no breaks or loose connections. Tone rings are all fine, no codes for any sensors specifically. Anyone have any experience with their ABS module going out/bad? I do not have a recall for the abs module, I checked. Also, if anyone can access the official ford diagnostic procedure that would help immensely. As would first hand experience! picture of code for reference.

Never mind. I just did a log and a 1/4mi run on my dragy and it’s still quick, plus there was no knock or pulled timing. I guess I’m just getting used to the power, or it’s being soft because I drive like a granny most of the time. feel free to post your ideas anyway though! Lol

Sorry for the terrible thread title but it’s pretty fitting. 2015 sport, LMS E30 tune, k&n drop in filter. When it’s cool outside, I’ll drop it into sport, floor it, it’ll downshift but then it feels like it’s pulling timing, boost, or both. You can feel it not accelerating like it should. It seems to be a recent development. During the day when it’s warm, no issues. Car pulls like a freight train. Weirdly enough it doesn’t do this in drive(drive mode usually isn’t as fast as sport). Does this happen to anyone else? Is it tune related? Or is it something more sinister like hard line parts. For the record, I just changed the oil and PTU fluid. It took like 22oz to get it to weep out of the fill hole. Any thoughts/ideas/first hand experiences?

I literally just used one. It was off putting at first, but honestly the plastic caps of the original do nothing. The 2062-A filter is a hair longer than the original 2062 but other than that they looked identical. We’ll see what happens, as I check it meticulously. Can always just go with the k&n filter or etc. if this one has issues.

I'm gonna bump this 1 year old thread like my predecessor did with my experience. I did a ton of research, and eventually found someone who towed their 4,500lb RV up and down some mountain roads, with logs of trans temps and etc(they installed an aftermarket trans temp gauge and transcooler), so that gave me some hope. Towed a 98 Eclipse GSX, weighing roughly 3300lbs(plus an extra block, and some extra parts. Probably 3500lbs rounded up) on a uhaul tow dolly(driveshaft on the eclipse disconnected, don't worry). Trans temps never got above 200, car felt effortless in its towing ability. You could tell it was there when accelerating from a dead stop, but honestly it wasn't like it was straining. Highway speeds? Totally forgot it was even there. Visibility was great with the factory mirrors, braking was more than adequate, no issues at all. Not suggesting anyone go and use their edge sport as their dedicated car hauler, but take my experience however you like. Everything held up, amazing was close to an 800 mile journey round trip. I did let the trans cool down in neutral at about 2000rpms when I stopped for fuel or snacks, but honestly..no issues. Legal disclaimer: I highly discourage anyone from doing this, and if you so choose to mimic my actions, I take NO responsibility for the possible damage your vehicle may suffer. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Old thread, but felt like updating this for anyone searching in the future curious for answers. I have a 2015 Edge Sport, and I used the Uhaul trailer hitch, which is just a rebadged Curt C13234, with a few more gussets welded in for some added strength(uhaul rates theirs higher). Install was a breeze. I did it by myself, with no jacks, and did NOT have to remove the rear bumper, or the heat-shield above the rear muffler. Just dropped the muffler, took off and cut the two plastic trim panels as shown in the install video for the Curt trailer hitch on youtube, fish the bolts through with the provided hardware, bolt it up, torque it to spec, reinstall plastic covers, done. Wiring was as easy as using a straightened coat hanger, tying the harness around it, and fishing it up the bumper/through the tail-lights, etc. I DID NOT lose my rear lift gate function at all with this trailer hitch. It IS however, a little more specific of an area now. I can provide a youtube recording later if interested, but basically just put the tip of my foot on top of the hitch where the chains hook into(it's a convenient little "step" for your foot), and pull it back...viola. Lift gate opens! So, cliff notes, didn't need to remove the rear bumper, super easy to install by myself, and my rear lift gate "foot swipe to open" still works, just a little smaller of an area. NOT a hidden hitch or a tucked hitch at all. I think it looks pretty good!

Yeah, the FWD DSMs are a riot to drive but you'll spend so much money getting them to properly hook up. AWD is the way to go. On a basic 16G setup and pump gas, 11's aren't out of the question on a stock long-block. If the car is auto, even easier. 16G, injectors/fuel pump/AFPR, Intercooler, intake, exhaust, a solid tune, maybe some 272 cams, done. My 98 Eclipse ran 12's on the stock 1st Gen turbo(little bigger than the stock turbo on the 95-99 models), intake, turbo back exhaust, front mount IC and a tune that I did myself. I love the platform, and it's super easy to make them fast, but it's hard to put a baby seat in the back of one. That, and the older I get the more I want something that does everything. Seat 4+ people, goes decently quick, is quiet, has a great stereo, and is still ACTIVELY SUPPORTED by the manufacturer. DSM parts are getting beyond rare, and the few examples left are exorbitantly priced. I enjoy my Edge quite a lot. I still enjoy my DSMs, but if it tells you anything the Eclipse hasn't been touched in over a year(needs to be restored from the idiot I sold it to screwing it up), and my Talon has been on jackstands for like...3. Lol. Plus, being able to pass by a cop and not even get looked at twice is worth its weight in GOLD.

Keep us updated. I've been talking with LMS lately about the CRP/CPE upgraded turbos and E85. They've agreed that once I get the parts installed, I'll drop the car off so they can custom tune mine, and then make canned tunes for this for others so alls you'll need is their tuner and away you go. I'm very curious what your ET/Trap speed is/what numbers you get as this is on my upgrade plans too. Upgraded intercooler, solid intake/IC pipes, heat wrap everything, CRP Turbos and E85. F150 2.7 guys put down 550hp on upgraded turbos and E85(granted theres are a little bigger compressor wheel) so 500awhp shouldn't be too out of the question for us. My only concern is the PTU and Transmission.

Thanks for the welcome fellas. As mentioned above, DSM is just an abbreviation for Diamond Star Motors. Joint venture between Chrysler and Mitsubishi. DSMs are the 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990-1998 Eagle Talon 1990-1994 Plymouth Laser Mitsu/Chrysler did more joint venture cars but only Diamond Star Motors built in Normal, IL were the cars mention above. I'm an idiot. I meant to type U0415. Dislexia, my bad! And I didn't replace the sensor, some inept dealership did when I took it to them to have my hatch locking mechanism replaced and get my A/C recharged, and told them I had ABS/other lights on. So they just threw parts at it, including a right rear ABS sensor(which it did have a code for, to be fair), but fixed nothing except the rear hatch. I didn't know about the recall though, definitely worth checking out! I legit thought it might've been the right rear ABS sensor because my wife curb checked a corner pretty hard. I'm wondering if it's the ABS module though, now. I at first thought it was an ABS tone ring issue(cracked from the curb check), but the code for right rear ABS hasn't re-appeared and has been replaced by the ABS module not communicating code. So who knows. Haha, for sure! First thing I did was check to see if the RTV goop had been applied to the inner fender and it has been. When it rains theres some fogging inside the cabin, but no puddles thankfully. Being a DSM guy I research like CRAZY on everything I can before I ask any kind of questions. On the old school DSM forums you'd get trolled and abused endlessly if you asked a question that had been answered a million times before.

Hey guys, newbie here. Been a dsmer since I was like 16, have had fast DSMs and done a lot with them. Still have two DSMs currently(98 eclipse gsx manual, 95 talon Tsi awd auto) and my first foray into a different world is the edge sport. 2015 Ford Edge Sport, tuxedo black(which I adore). It’s LMS E30 tuned, with a K&N drop in filter and nothing else. She moves really well(0-60 in 4.8 seconds, dragy verified, with traction issues. lol) and I enjoy the hell out of it. However there’s a reason I’m here along with meeting new people. My dashboard is lit up like a Christmas tree with stability control off, traction off, and park assist/lane assist failures. Replaced the rear abs sensor didn’t fix it. I pulled codes with my livernois tuner, and got U0415, abs control module fault code. My question, can a faulty abs control module really affect all those things? Or is it a deeper issue? Any tips? thanks for having me! -CrackedDSM