CrackedDSM

Really a shot in the dark here and I do not expect any hits, but nevertheless here we go. i want to trade my OEM 20’s for some OEM 21’s or even any kind of aftermarket 20”+ wheel as long as it’s at least 9” wide. I need to run 265 or wider tires. Wheels come with 245 uniroyal tiger paws, great all season tires, less than 5k miles on them. picture attached is of the wheels I’m selling. Thanks for your time.

Welcome! What part of Alabama?

Sounds like an exhaust leak honestly.

How hard would it be to swap in the 2.3 from the mustang or the focus RS? They’ve got the headgasket issues pretty well licked. And it’d be a nice little bump in power. ?

Have you seen what we actually fund and how many billions goes to dumb stuff like reproductive habits of chameleons and gender studies in Pakistan? Trim the fat, use it for more useful stuff. I’d gladly pay taxes knowing it was going to stopping the wildfire problems in CA. Plus once you got a handle on it, maintenance would be far cheaper. You don’t need to clear the entire area, just a fire gap really.

Eventually CA will get sick of wildfires and will start clearing out the dead brush and say to hell with the rare insects or birds that might live in the stuff. Past time to do away with the stupid laws protecting the brush and dead leafs and downed, dry trees.

That’s me. I towed a 1998 eclipse gsx 5-speed manual, with two spare engines and a few other parts in the back. Well over 3,000lbs(honestly probably closer to 3500-4000 with the dolly included in) and it took it like a champ. I took about a 200 mile ish trip one way towing it up and down hills and mountains of NC, no issues. No burning or fading brakes, no overheating transmission, no out of control swaying or etc, total breeze. You could definitely feel it was back there, but only on acceleration and bumps kinda jostled me around but nothing unsafe. Trans temps never got above 210* and if it even got close I pulled over and blasted the heat for awhile(our transcooler is cooled by the coolant that goes to the heater core from the factory. At least my 2015 sport is this way) in neutral with the idle raised to about 2000rpm for a few moment’s and that was more than enough to cool it right back down to normal operating temps within minutes. This was on extreme inclines in very hot weather too. These things can tow quite a lot. I’m convinced the only reason Ford rates them so low is because they want to sell more trucks. In the eyes of the consumer why buy a truck to tow with if I can just buy a cheaper SUV that gets better gas mileage? But if it’s rated for only 2000 Lbs then that’s scary and I want a truck that’s rated for 5500 instead!

Commenting so it updates me on posts. This looks incredible. This, combined with your V2 intake, and the UP intercooler would be super effective at controlling these insane engine bay temps. Question, have you thought of making your own snorkel too? Something to compliment the V2 intake and maybe even something that works with keeping the AGS shutters or at least only removing the drivers side top two shudders instead of the whole thing? I really do not want to sacrifice having quick heat in the winter, but would love the benefits of a snorkel.

Different cars, same thing applies though. Don’t go for a canned tune if you’re changing the airflow drastically. If you’re going for turbos and meth and etc you should already be planning for a custom tune because you need to figure out your specific combos VE% and timing desires. A canned tune for my stock edge with a drop in filter has a completely different VE map than anything with different turbos or anything that massively shifts that table around. It should honestly be common sense if you’re changing big stuff, you need a big tune. Lol. For stock guys though, 100% fine with LMS, and the other guys.

I honestly was already planning on how I was going to get half of a broken 10.5 grade bolt out, with every snap it did. Then it just started coming out and finally could just get it out with a simple ratchet. I couldn't believe the amount of threadlocker on there. I've taken bolts out with red loctite that came out easier. I swear it's not threadlocker, it's actual cement. Until someone proves me wrong, that's my headcanon. ? You ST guys have the B4 struts from the factory...so they're pretty stiff on bumps and potholes? I would like to upgrade to some stiffer springs and shocks from my Sport but my wife really doesn't want to sacrifice the ride quality. She's ridden in my GSX on coilovers and solid mounts so she's all paranoid now and won't let me touch the suspension. Lol.

To answer the question, yeah I use the MyCalibrator Touch. Also just for relevance to any future readers of the thread, the member in question who lost his motor did extensive upgrades to the turbos and airflow of the engine, and used a tune designed for a stock/very mildly modified engine. LMS tunes are very good at correcting for different fuels and based on knock seen or not, but no ECU other than the aftermarket standalones like Haltech will save an engine from major airflow changes. Example: throw a bigger turbo on a stock Ecoboost mustang and crank the boost up, it'll cost you the engine. Not Ford's fault per say. I've watched mine like a hawk because I'm a DSM'er and that's kinda what we have to do, and I never see knock or etc. It's amazing the tech built into these engines. With that said, all tuners no matter how good will have issues. There are freak events that happen, stuff changes, and cars come with safe stock tunes for a reason. That's why ALL tuners provide a disclaimer saying no warranty is offered and no coverage for blown engines or engine damage. It's the risk you take. Livernois, Unleashed, BCB, etc, all are a great option. For a stock or lightly modified Edge(intake/exhaust/minor stuff), any of them you can't go wrong with. Go with whichever meets your budget. For me, the ease and use of the LMS tuner (and their customer service) completely won me over. I've gotten no lie probably 10 tunes from Anthony @ LMS, all for free, and all with absolute ease where other tuners will charge you for more than what they originally included with your bundle. He's also called me personally and talked me through how to recover the ECU because I was an idiot and left the trailer harness plugged in(or the radio on), and the ECU got ticked off at me when trying to upload new tunes. Never got irritated, never made me wait. Instant service, instant gratification. When I get an Explorer ST, I will be going with LMS to tune it too.

Do you still have this? I could come pick it up from you to save the shipping headaches.

The edge in general is somewhat ignored by the aftermarket, but as a DSM owner, I can assure you it's far from forgotten. The AFE works and even if it sealed with the hood I still would buy the lid for it that they sell. There's a ton of heat in these engine bays. There's still good parts being developed and more that you can get made yourself if you're thrifty. Turbos, built trans, intakes, exhausts, several different tuners, E85 conversion, etc. Plenty for 600whp if you want to put the time and money in.

Can't say about the Unleashed tuner, but on livernois E30 tune I get 25-26mpg highway. On their 93 performance tune, I get 30+mpg highway, if I keep my foot out of it. The tune actually helped it get better gas mileage when off boost. I'm sure it'll be similar results with any other brand tuner.

Pop the gray center of the "foglight" out, and just have the customer mount a tube running from there, to the box. Would work great, and the "foglight"(if you can call a strip of LEDs a foglight..) will still be perfectly functional, and it'll be sneaky too! That's what I'd do. Just include a capped off section of the air box, that the customer can then DIY some stuff. Or if you want to do all the extra legwork, pop out that cover, make a mold of it, and then have a mold made that just pops right in and is already modified. Include some accordion drainage hose...done! ? That's my shade tree recommendation at least.

How much does he charge for the upper intercooler pipe, and do you think he'd be interested in making hard intake pipes for the turbos to go along with Xtra's hard work? Our intercooler piping situation is in need of some quality, sub-$1000 set of intercooler and intake pipes. Honestly I think with a quality turbo-back exhaust, hard intercooler and intake pipes(maybe with some heat wrap too), an intercooler, and a really good tune on E these cars could be even faster. I dream of a future with Xtra's intake box and cowl, hard intercooler/intake pipes, and a complete turbo-back exhaust for everyone.

That's awesome. Honestly seems like if you sealed the top off it would still be beneficial even without the headlight cut out. You could run an accordion tube sealed to one of the bumper vents straight to the box. Wouldn't be as simple or great as the headlight removed but would still be better than stock. That plus the ultimate intercooler, I bet your IATs look incredible even on hot days!! Yes they do.

Ah okay. The intercooler is honestly what I desperately need to help these IATs. I'm still gonna try out the Stage 3 and Stage 4 at the track but I think honestly I'll see better all around/all temperature performance on the stock intercooler with the Stage 3. Soon as we're moved and settled though, traction mods and that intercooler ASAP! My best 0-60 so far was launching similarly with tires at 40psi. Brake boost to 2500rpm, let the brakes go, keep throttle at 25-35% until around 20mph, then floor it/100% throttle it. On the V3 that'd result in some decent launches, still spinning as I went WOT, but noticeably better. On the Stage 4 its just spin city like I'm a FWD on bald tires. We'll give it the old college try with the tire pressures adjusted though! Thanks for your help. ?

Can I ask how you are launching it?

That's what I'm talking about!! That 60' is AWESOME. I have everything except the springs, and my tires are all at max pressure, so that's the first thing I need to do. Wow those are good times. Gives me hope. Did you notice any heatsoak, if you're on a stock intercooler? Did it have more top end power than the previous tunes, or was it more down low torque? Mine seems to have way more torque and mid-range, but drops off on the top end and seems to heatsoak more on the Stage 4 tune. When the sun goes down and it's a little cooler, it's a whole other story. Maybe I should try to do a few logs myself. I am gonna try my best to hit up the local 1/8th track tomorrow if it doesn't rain so I can get some real numbers. First thing I'm gonna do is lower my tire pressure in the front(you're the second person in the 12.7's to tell me to do that!) and see how it goes. I do want to do some comparison runs to the old Stage 3 tunes too. Was this on E30, or on 93? Is that all the mods you have is just what you listed? Last question, how are you launching it? Thank you for your comment, it helps a ton.

I have the GWC aftermarket warranty and I'm extremely happy with it. Only gripe is don't take it to a dealership because they'll rake you over the coals to make as much money on top of whatever the warranty work will cover, on purpose. Take it to a reputable privately owned non-dealership and legit everything is covered with a $100 deductible. RDU, ABS system, A/C work..all covered and fixed, $100 out of pocket. Can't beat it.

Honestly, the engineers made quite a few questionable decisions on the Edge ST's. Had an option to trade in on one and glad I turned it down. Between the transmission skipping gears problems that can't be tuned out and etc, I'm saving my pennies and time for an Explorer ST instead.

Was on another topic and mentioned that Livernois Motorsports has released a new update to their tunes, they call "Stage 4". Previous one being called Stage 3, and is a couple years old at best. It's not being widely advertised so you have to ask for it. I did, and got it this morning. Loaded it up, and decided to do some testing. The first set of Dragy SS' are on Stage 3, the final set are on Stage 4(and also added a CP-E rear motor mount, this is relevant.) Stage 3 E30 Tune Ricer Excuses/Relevant info: Tires are Uniroyal Tigerpaw A/S 245/50R20's right @ 40psi. Stock RMM, K&N Drop in filter, Boomba VTA adapter, tune. I'm actually bummed about this run as its my all time best. On the stage 3 E30 tunes, there was less torque down low, and more up top, so the launch could be feathered if I did it juuuuust right, and the results speak for itself. I got a REALLY good launch, still broke loose a little as to be expected with these tires, and the pass felt incredible. But I panicked and started to brake HARD where you see the massive dip at the end there, aborting the run. I was floored when I still got a 13.53 @ only 86mph! So then I found out that LMS was now quietly updated their tunes to a Stage 4, that everyone on the facebook groups was raving about, so I decided to try it out. During this time while waiting, I upgraded to the CP-E rear motor mount. Stage 4 E30 Tune First experience with the Stage 4 tune? A completely different animal. It has much more torque and boost comes in way earlier in the RPM range, which can be fun for zipping through traffic, but these Uniroyal tiger paws HATE this new torque, and the Dragy SS' show it. Best I could do was a 5.09, launch RPM was 2500, keeping it at 25-35% throttle until 20mph, and then going 100% throttle, which immediately breaks the tires loose. All things were equal here though, even down to the tire pressure. Only change was the motor mount(as it turns out, doesn't help much with tire pressure being high. Lol) With the traction issues, I didn't even attempt a full 1/4mi run, and on this run I let off at 70ish mph. I didn't break, but backed off the throttle. It has so much torque down low, that up top doesn't feel quite so stellar anymore. I'm gonna have to relearn how to drive the ol' black bullet with the new stage 4 stuff, but it did make a noticeable difference. From this point on, I am not going to mod a single thing on this vehicle, and focus solely on traction. Lighter wheels, and wider, stickier performance tires will be the next thing, maybe even some stiffer springs(not decided yet) because this lack of traction is a total buzzkill. I do plan on going to my local 1/8th mile drag strip here very soon though, where I'm gonna try to get solid Stage 3 vs Stage 4 numbers again, but in a controlled, prepped environment. I also plan to do some back to back testing of the Stage 3 93oct vs Stage 4 93oct. Any feedback is completely welcomed, as well as posting up your own numbers, and your own experiences with your specific tune/tire/mod combo. Thanks for lookin'

Updating this, so in case anyone in the future has this problem, here's the solution: There was a break in the harness, where it ran underneath the back seat, inside the car. It was broken to where you almost couldn't even tell until you shifted the harness and then bam. There it was, broken apart. Reconnected the wires, shrink wrapped it, bam. Everything is fixed. Traction control, ABS, stability management, lane assist, everything is fine with absolutely no lights or issues. If you get this code, check out every single inch of your harness going from the ABS sensors, all the way to your ABS pump, and etc. Run a continuity check and it'll tell you everything you need to know. Was a simple fix after all!

Honestly the bends in our exhausts are super...super simple. I wish I still had my welding equipment, as I could get some pipe and fab up a bolt-in down-pipe back exhaust system for like maybe $250 including piping and mufflers. Crazy how much magnaflow and others charge for their catback systems for the ST, or I would be super tempted to try it out. Would just have to adjust the tips to fit the sport bumper vs the ST bumper. So I definitely have been kicking back and forth going to a local exhaust shop and having them do it, but I kinda want to hear more examples of WOT and highway sounds before I do. I don't want to hate it and be stuck with it.