Cerberus

automatic transmission and motorcycle clutches (aside from a handful of exceptions) operate in an oil bath

I hope it's just the battery getting old.. 3 years is not a long time for a quality battery, but if you were using the auto stop/start system, then it does make some sense that the battery would be tired if it did a lot of cycles. FWIW I also had the H7 installed but I traded that vehicle in and don't have pictures I don't think

Not 100% sure but I suspect H7 is the largest, and more than the vehicle really needs unless you have auto start stop enabled (which i vehemently advise against)

Personally, given the quote I was given to do the job at the dealership, I'd buy or rent the evap pump and gauge set. Even if you buy them it's much cheaper to do it yourself. I already owned the tools so it was an absolute no trainer for me. And yes, I would have recommended R&Ring the belt and idler/tensioner while you're there. I did. I'm in the Knox area but my time is so monopolized by my employer, that i simply don't have enough hours off in a row to even entertain the idea of a job of this size. But it's not a hard job of you have all the tools you need and the perseverance to see it through. The hardest part to me was the awkward positioning on jackstands which had my working the absolute hell out of my neck muscles to nearly the point of failure.. lol

It does.

I'm betting you meant external and internal, not external and external

ok.. this is not going to be all good news, but here goes. That engine (3.5L transverse V6 i presume?) has a problem with refilling the cooling system, it has to be done with a vacuum fill system because (at least in the version i had in my 2011 fusion) both the hot and cold hoses going from the engine to the radiator, go high before going low. you can't get water into the engine with any normal process.. the engine ends up air locked, and air does not work well in cooling systems. What this implies is that, if they did not fill the engine correctly after doing the pump, THEY are responsible for the head gasket failure. The bad news is, good luck getting them to admit it or take responsibility for it..

bold strategy.. You revive a 12 year old thread by insulting a moderator... while admittedly correcting a false statement. but to be fair you didn't address the elephant in the room, the transmission operation being described as operating in a somewhat lazy mode. being slow to downshift does tend to be a fuel saving tactic, and not good for performance. these shifting algorithms are being reworked all the time and adaptive self adjustments make it even harder to compare apples to apples.. nevermind the final drive ratios being different, and the shift programming likely being different as well And this all assumes the engines of both vehicles were in identical condition with identical conditions. Heck, a cool day can make most engines perform better.. bottom line, its hard to pinpoint one single cause, but yes, if the final drive ratios are different, the numerically higher one will tend to have a lot more acceleration with everything else being equal

I have a set of American Racing 18" black wheels with winter tires (in good condition) on them, 245/50 R18 GoodYear Winter Command with sensors (x4) I'm in Eastern TN, lets say Knoxville, and these items really aren't worth shipping so basically looking for anyone local-ish who wants them fairly cheaply EDIT: the dealership does want the RDU.. I should have removed the catch can, since I'm willing to bet they'll remove it anyway

intermittent charge warning means intermittent charge problems. In other words, when you test it, its fine, but wen the light comes on, its almost certainly not. could be a loose field wire (but unlikely) loose output cable (also unlikely) or a failing alternator. If it makes you feel any better, most mechanics are not good at electronics, and even worse at intermittent problem diagnosis.. if you buy a cheapo cigarette lighter receptacle voltage meter, and plug in in somewhere you can easily see it, you can glance over at it when the light comes on and verify the actual voltage in its faulted condition.

I'm pretty sure that tempered glass IS safety glass. If nothing hit it, the fracture has to be a manufacturer problem.

I traded my 2016 sport in on a 2020 explorer ST.. so I'm no longer in the cool kids club.. 🤣 I'm sure you all will miss me terribly LOL I am grateful for the reference info and shared experience which has made my Edge ownership easier. Best wishes to one and all Peace out!

I had the panoramic sunroof on my 2016 edge, it cracked, i replaced it myself. but I am a mechanic.. if yours is similar, 10,000 is absolutely attempted theft of your vehicle.

paging @Haz our local documentation and reference information expert

Timing cover is an RTV bead (or was in the 2011 version), but I'd probably do the crank seal. Valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals, cam phaser solenoid seals, and yes, I think there are upper and lower intake seals. I'd be willing to bet they come in a kit You'll need tools to lock cams at the correct position, pull the crank hub, and press it back on, assuming yours is like mine was (fusion, not edge)

if driving all day only gets the battery to 70%, i'd be checking alternator current output. and crank on every single power hungry accessory immediately after start up while watching the output, see if it hits a threshold below its actual spec. otherwise its possible the battery is just tired.

Changing fluid is good. Compromising the structural integrity of a load bearing member is unnecessary to perform the fluid change, it just makes it easier. Also, if in fact the unit has the original fluid and is in as good a condition as you say, that would suggest that regular fluid changes are less necessary than you might think. Mine ran empty for many miles and did not fail completely.. yet.

Nice find. I wouldn't do a kerosene flush, especially with the condition of the RDU and it's fluid being apparently very good. I also would not drill it to create a drain, nor change the fluid every 10k.. but that's just me.

this is the information i was looking for, thank you

back when i was working on jaguars (XJ8 mostly for a while), i changed a lot of small cartridge style water pumps with plastic impellers that had shattered, and (again, in my experience) no, the plastic does not dissolve. If it did, it would not be a suitable material for an impeller in the first place. where all the fragments of impeller ended up, there is no way to know, but many vehicles had odd cooling issues after a pump went bad and grenaded. And a cast iron impeller will not fail, except perhaps by corrosion, and we've covered that angle well enough.

intermittent failures are often challenging to trace down, and require as much information as possible. but just off the cuff, my first thought was the a/c clutch relay, or a loose connection at the compressor for the clutch also possible; software glitch/failure, loose ground, loose connection to a pressure sensor in the system if it were me, i'd bring it back to the guy who did the alternator and a/c service and say, i already paid you to fix this problem, which didn't start until you worked on the car, so fix it for free. but the likelihood that will turn out well is probably not great.

to be fair, there is an obvious fluid leak stain at the output shaft, so it probably ran dry. If the fluid level is kept right, they last quite well. I know i ran with mine 'dry' or effectively empty for quite a while. like tens of thousands of miles, and yes its shot now, but i can't help but wonder if it would in this state if it had fluid in it the whole time. Bad mechanic (me), no donut. 😒

I have never seen a high side port cap that could hold back over 150PSI.. so i'm gonna have to call BS on this one. Shraders do not wear out either. Why would they? Unless they are being opened and closed (slam shut under pressure) there is no reason for a valve that is not moving ever to wear out.

Exactly PTU suffers massive heat soak in 2.7L applications from the rear catalytic converter and turbo. Currently driving with my RDU torque coupling clutch unplugged which should equate to zero load on the PTU, but fluid temp is still well above trans fluid temp when driving around town.