Edge5280

Your description is stating the O-ring goes between the housing and T-stat not like the other pictures through out the post where it is between T-stat and water pump. Correct?

My fault in wording. E85 has a higher knock resistance not just because of the octane number, the detonation resistance during compression, but also the cooling effect of changing from liquid to vapor and having a denser mixture. The fuel mixture running before and after the intercooler has the same octane fuel but coming out has a higher knock resistance.

Gasoline isn't simple. The cam2 I add- Isooctane 26635-64-3 30-70 Toluene 108-88-3 10-25 Naphtha (petroleum), light alkylate 64741-66-8 5-20 Isopentane 78-78-4 5-15 Ethyl Alcohol 64-17-5 7-10 Butane 106-97-8 0-5 Benzene 71-43-2 0.002-0.01 There is also a difference between octane and knock resistance. Ethanol is a boosted dream. E30 blend Octane difference between 87 and 93

I have time slips and dragy readout, and a real daily driver vs postulations and perspectives. I always love car math and really appreciate where you are coming from. You want to beg to differ at the track or dyno I'm always up for it. I'm sure Livernois would listen to your input as they have different tunes for 91/e30 and 93/e30. I test the E85 monthly, always 70% and I'm confident I blend as close as the pump readout can offer. 3 gallons E 85(70) and 6 gallons 91 E10% = 9 gallons E30 with 91 octane. I use ethanol and octane calculators. I'm not going to split hairs or equations on a family car, but I have pretty consistent results. There is humidity temperature, air pressure drag coefficients and whether I had a cup of coffee or eggs Benedict. I'll stand by E30 93 properly blended makes more power than E30 87. The octane of gasoline has a lesser effect than the other benefits of Ethanol that go far beyond just octane measurements. hp gains are typically better with E than gasoline with similar octane especially in boosted applications. Still gasoline octane makes a measurable difference.

Absolutely. Different tunes for 87,91,93 We only have 91 typically here but also 100 pump gas with 10% E. Terriblely expensive but I can blend it up with the 91 to hit higher octane #s. As suggested on the forum was to run a tune with somewhat higher octane and E content. That's the plan anyway E40 and 94+. I'm shooting for 12s at 5000' with nothing but a K&N filter and Tune, and everything that comes with the car, spare tire, seats etc. A few 10ths away with the 91 e30 tune and lots of spin. I have a much faster toy but this is my family hotrod. We'll see.

Just a plug for Livernois. High altitude and low 5s, sometimes high 4s 0-60 with the 91 E30 tune. I've been running this all year and no complaints or problems. Our E85 is set year round to 70%. I'm about to dyno then run a E35 with 94 just to see if there is a difference. It will be a Dyno Dynamics AWD, so no big numbers and prefer non corrected to match my trap MPH. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dmv4-gRyyh-GUJfxy3y16yAPpeH3KZZy/view?usp=sharing BTW Dragy has F*d up their DA, but altitude is right

How to embed a google drive video? ZV8

I ordered a new Ford 2015-18 PTU yesterday. My local Ford dealers scoffed at the low price I paid saying it was less than what they pay for it. I'm calling BS but their 900+ compared to under 600 from another Ford parts only source is a no brainer. My whining noises have gotten bothersome and the tip in clunk, like a sloppy ring and pinion noise is now pretty loud. Fluid is still clean and always been, so I'm blaming this mostly on myself. After adding my LMS tune trying to find the sweet spot on launches I encountered really harsh wheel hop on occasion. Especially if I don't set traction control off. 2100-2200 stills spins a lot but about right with the Scorpion Verdes. A touch more rpm and blow first and second into wheel spin. If you hit the limiter it has to wheeze and cough and limp a bit before recomposing itself. I'll probably take it easier on the new PTU at least launching. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NRynLa1wDA4tO-AfJhi_H1VhoZ7miD0U/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/14zyrIyprqvbo4ShUR3HQd0nQXNIs36kH/view?usp=sharing --the VTA noise is for my pesky neighbor with an EVO, just to bother him lol

I'll add my .02. I've been running the Livernois E30/91 octane tune now for nearly one and a half years with zero issues, except maybe hurting my PTU with over zealous launches when I was figuring out launch points. My shifts are really firm and I would expect and want them to be for a performance tune. If you want buttery smooth imperceptible shifts except for the tach moving, then maybe this hasn't the sophistication for you. I come from the era of nasty cammed 455 cu in backed byTH400s with stout calibrations that knock your fillings out on the shifts. Quick firm shifts used to mean less band wear and faster ETs in my experience. Anyway, I live at a higher altitude, nearly 5000' and race track is 6000. With Draggy 13.3 and high 4 0-60, couple 10ths slower with just the 91 performance tune, I consider great for a 4660 lb family vehicle especially in my location. Livernois has been great answering all my questions and I have tunes from crap 87 to 93/E30 to 100+ race gas. I'm completely satisfied and drive mine everywhere in this tune. I understand more is better, too much is not enough for some, and fully support anyone wanting to go faster. I would think when you cross the line from stock tuning to aftermarket bigger and better, upgrading to a custom hands on dyno tune should be part of the plan. I'm hoping to find a reasonable dyno day to get comparative numbers for myself.

I changed the PTU fluid again to Redline shockproof, clean and clear drain, but feel better. Still clunks on tip in, but abused on a Procharged Nissan Z. Really good view in the rear view mirror. Sweet cars.

My engine blew last night right after blowing the doors off a pesky McClaren. I decided to swap in an old Cadillac 500 I had sitting by the shed along with a 67 Olds Toronado TH400 to maintain the FWD. Handling and power is soooooo much improved. Happy April, stay safe and healthy.

So I lifted it and checked out fluid. Mine luckily has a drain, first service! Fluid came out darker than new, but clear. A dab of sludge on the tip of drain plug. Good I suppose for 40k miles. I'm trying to decide if the amount of play I feel and hear is just going to be part of the car now, kinda like some of the Dodge Charger owners are experiencing. Having a reference in degrees or whatever of ok/not ok driveshaft or wheel rotation play would be helpful. It wasn't there 10k ago. Hard launches, wheel hop maybe added some clearance to the gears in the PTU. Time will tell.

Bienvenidos.

My year is in my profile next to posts, but I see it's not on everyone's. Anyway it's a 2015 so 2015-2018 will work. The bulletin states: AND BUILT ON OR BEFORE 30-JUN-2016. I'm locating a lot of salvage 2018 Edge/MKX with 20K and under miles. F2GZ-7251-C New best price is $682 with core. Used around $400. Not ready to pull the trigger yet, but I'll see how it progresses. FWIW I think my sound comes more from the PTU ring and pinion area. I had a few old GM rear ends that sounded similar. Good advice on the fluid changes. My 2002 Escape XLT has over160K on the problematic CD4E and I'm sure regular fluid changes and flushes are a big part of why I still have zero issues.

Anyone ever have experience with repairs or replacements or long term outcomes due to this? I'm chasing a clunk on accelerator tip in, pretty soft knock/clunk sound and getting more persistent. I can here it most of the time I go from reverse and into drive as well. I have an old set of chassis ears, you know the alligator clips with microphones on them, put on the headphones and click between locations. It's absolutely coming from the PTU. If it comes down to yank and replace it would seem like the '17, '18 versions would be best and probably have fewer miles. I'm not opposed to repairing either, just looking for the best route when it comes up.