colinc755

I don’t think the thermostat that everyone is referring to here is the problem. I too have owned a previous 2018 Edge and a 2019 Edge. I noticed that too when getting the new car. My 2018 used to get up to temp before I even left the neighborhood and the 2019 takes a long time. They made a decent amount of changes to the 2.0 and they could be using different firmware logic. It’s not a TGDI problem because both engines are the same and if it was the thermostat, it would be pretty unlikely that we both noticed the exact same thing.

WARNING: Make sure you can remove both the leveling plug and the fill plug BEFORE draining the transmission!!!! Recently I embarked on a task that was, in theory, simple, but in reality, was hell. That task, of course, was a routine transmission fluid change on the 8F35 transmission (found in 2019+ edges with the 2.0). As it turns out, Ford has made changing the transmission fluid on this car incredibly difficult, but there are some useful things I learned along the way that should hopefully make it easier for any DIY'ers wanting to take this on. The 8F35 fluid change procedure is pretty much identical to the 6F35 procedure found in the '15-'18 2nd gens. This means that there is no dipstick, fluid level is checked by a leveling plug in the left front wheel well. Sounds simple enough, many cars do this, so what's the big deal? Well, Ford decided to absolutely bury the pressure ring fit fill plug underneath a ton of immovable objects (this is unlike the 6f35 which actually had a very easy-to-access fill plug). Like the shop manual says, the airbox must be removed. This is simple enough but because of the amount of "Christmas tree" wiring harness holders, you will likely be cutting a few zip ties. I would actually recommend cutting them because the wiring harness they hold is actually not in danger of hitting anything. Once the airbox is removed you must first find the cap under all the crap they buried it under. Be careful not to damage the MAF when moving the airbox away from the car. Once that is done, filling the transmission is not as simple as removing the top plastic cap. You must also remove the funnel that the cap rests in because Ford placed a piece of plastic in between the cap and the funnel, blocking any fluid that tries to enter. To remove this you must get a pair of needle-nose pliers and pinch in the snap ring and pull up on the assembly. This window that the pliers can fit in is incredibly tiny and removing this funnel will take a lot of patience. Once the funnel is removed, keep track of that plastic piece that sits inside it. You can now fill the transmission with fluid, I would recommend trying to match what came out and add .25qts-.5qts to it (this is because if you pour too little fluid you can't add anymore without removing everything you just removed). Once all the fluid has been added, you must now reinstall the funnel for the cap. This is where the tip comes into play. Because of the amount of stuff in the way, it is pretty impossible to squeeze the snap ring in and also push the funnel down in the right spot at the right time. What I ended up doing to solve this was to squeeze the snap ring in and have a partner wrap a zip-tie around the teeth (of the snap ring) that the pliers were grabbing onto. If you tweak this and get it tight enough, the zip-tie should hold it at maximum tension. I had to use a large zip-tie so that it did not snap. With tension held, the funnel can be easily slipped on and the rest can be reinstalled. You must now hook up a scan tool and go for a test drive to get the fluid hot enough to level it (usually a 20-minute test drive). Just another side note, the leveling plug is torqued an insane amount from the factory so be prepared to break out the breaker bar and extensions to snap it loose. When you get back from this test drive, pray that at least some fluid trickles out of the level, or it's back to step 1. You can actually do an initial level before the test drive by starting the car and running it through all the gears and then checking the level plug. Just make sure the car is still idling when checking the leveling plug. That initial check is only supposed to be for an overhauled transmission, but it could save driving around with too little fluid for half an hour. Anyway, sorry that seemed like a bit of a rant. There is just a lot of unneeded complexity to this routine maintenance item. It seems Ford has made drain and fills extremely difficult, maybe they'd rather people get their transmissions flushed by machines at dealers than to have the fluid changed by regulars at home. To anyone that gives this a shot, good luck. I was originally going to make all of this a video but was too tired and annoyed by the end of all of it. If these instructions aren't clear enough, I may still do that. I will attach the factory ford guide, it makes the job seem WAY easier than it actually is. Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill.pdf

I have a 2018, but it was a car that I restored and rebuilt. The car has a rebuilt title so it has no coverage from ford. I am just worried because I wouldn't want the work that I put in to go to waste because the Ford engineers messed another thing up. The car is at 44k and the coolant is at a perfect level. The thing I am trying to get after is the frequency of the problem. Looking at multiple forums it is hard to say because some double post on different sites and its hard to say how the people that are active online compare the thousands of edges on the road. From what I have been told there is no point in time where the engine has proven it will be fine, as I said before some folks say it just shows up one day. I am getting especially nervous because my girlfriend that has a 1.5 Ecoboost escape is getting a new engine because of coolant consumption. The funny thing is I avoided the 3.5 because of the water pump. Ford just cannot seem to figure out engine cooling smh...

Been hearing a lot of ramblings online that say the coolant loss problems from the 1.5 ecoboost are also showing up in the 2.0. Folks on the edge Facebook group say that they’ve seen a couple that just start consuming coolant out of the blue well below 100k. Has anyone on here had experience with this. The 2.0 as far as I know is regarded as a robust engine so it’s surprising to hear all this.

How did you get that line off, I gave up on at after awhile.

I am attempting to remove the intake manifold on a 2018 edge 2.0 and this vacuum tube on the side is standing in the way. The problem is I have no clue how to remove it. The Ford official service manual is pitiful, saying “1. push in intake retainer” “2. Remove hose.” If anyone has done this before your help would be greatly appreciated!!! Image: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xrz5QDsKT1WrKj4AxdYOecdeM5VV6lxN/view?usp=drivesdk

The gas station by my house just recently got renovated and they added some new fuel types to the mix. The gas cap on my Ecoboost Edge says it can handle E15 but I just wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with it. I have used it for 2 tanks now and I do not notice any tuning differences or gas mileage loss. I just wonder about the claim on the pump that says it "burns cleaner." I wonder if this has any effect on carbon build up or anything, yes I know that in a direct injection engine the fuel quality won't effect how clean the valves are because they aren't sprayed, but maybe the cleaner burn provides less of a chance for build up when both the intake and exhaust valves are open for that small period of time. Regardless the savings in price are nice, especially when it doesn't appear to be doing any harm.

The brand new module I got from the ford dealership came with the 01FF 80DA value so I never had to do any programming. Technically it would be a good idea to reprogram it through IDS, but in my case it was plug and play. If for some reason it came blank then there could be issues. With how easy these are to change out its worth a shot to see if its plug and play.

Did you do a DIY install or take it to a shop? If there’s a good kit for the 2.0 I’d be very interested, I wasn’t aware anyone had made anything for the 2.0.

Just wanted to reach out to any owners of 2.0 edges that have higher mileage to see if carbon buildup has been a concern. There have been a lot of videos circling around about ecoboosts getting caked pretty bad, but it is hard to find info specifically about the 2.0. If anyone out there has the first gen or second with high mileage I would love to hear if you've had any service when it comes to cleaning carbon on the intake valves.

My dealership here doesn't do it either so I just did it myself. If you are comfortable with doing that it isn't a very hard job.

Thanks for your reply, I have an online subscription to their manuals and stuff, I just figured it would say the same thing as IDS. I will make sure to check on it next time.

I am guessing that it was a general mix of conditions that caused the lack of power that I was experiencing. The climate I am in has snapped out of a cold and rainy spring into a 95 degree oven overnight. The vehicle has had to have the A/C cranked pretty high which can be a bottleneck on most vehicles. Not to mention that turbochargers tend to like colder air for more efficiency. The other thing I have noticed is that this edge really doesn't like lower amounts of fuel, when it gets to below a 1/4th a tank the car does not respond the same as a full tank. I am curious if this has something to do with the high pressure injection system required by GDI or maybe this is just how a lot of vehicles are. If I am being honest I let my fears of the 6F35 get the best of me and I should have considered all of these factors before making a post. I have been behind the wheel of a vehicle that has lost its transmission and now I think that I am too quick to assume the worst. The one thing I do have which is a solid transmission quirk is the rougher 2-3 shift, but from what I read that is almost normal for the 6F35 so I don't think it should be of too much concern. I am curious to know if anyone else on the forum has this in their edge. My girlfriend's Escape also has a 6F35 with the 1.5 Eco and her's seems to shift a lot smoother than mine so its hard to know what to think. I have read posts online about people feeling that Ford put the 6F35 in vehicles that are too big to handle this smaller transmission, the Explorer folks really don't seem to like this transmission. I do wonder about the long term life of this transmission, but its already in my driveway so there's nothing to do now but maintain it I guess. I just hope that the ford engineers made the right call by making the 6F35 apart of this powertrain.

I have noticed in IDS lately that my '18 Edge is showing a U2002 code which ties into the ABS. Although, there aren't any lights on the dash and there haven't been any changes with the brakes. The only thing I did that may be causing this code was unplug the cable to the E-brake switch when I was taking the dash apart, but I plugged in the switch right after and it functions normally. I just wanted to see if anyone knew anything about this code because I cannot find a single bit of information online.

So I recently bought a 2018 Ford Edge 2.0 AWD with 38000 miles on the ODO in a private party sale, when the vehicle got to 40000 I did a PTU fluid change, oil change, and a Trans fluid change. The PTU fluid change went well and well ...oil changes are kind of hard to screw up, but something is off about the trans now after changing the fluid. I followed the Ford factory manual point for point and used official Motorcraft Mercon LV. When I did the change, I even hooked up a VCM-II clone with IDS to make sure that the trans temp was correct for checking the fluid level. The fluid I changed was dark after 40000 miles but it still had a chemical smell and there were no visible contaminants. After all of this however, the trans feels a lot weaker. When I am shifting into reverse it is rougher and there is a little flutter in the revs sometimes (especially when cold), and I have noticed that it is not as easy to get the vehicle up to high speeds off the line. It feels as if when I get to 60mph that's all the powertrain has left. I have also noticed at lower speeds it has some flutters and seems more indecisive in shifting. I was just wondering if anyone has had any similar experiences with these issues, I have a hard time imagining that I could have messed it up taking all the precautions I did, following the factory guide. I have never heard of a trans fluid change having this much of an impact on a vehicle with miles as low as this. Are these issues maybe something that will be ironed out with time? (I have only driven 200 miles since the change). Besides the issues with power the shifts in drive are perfectly smooth and there are no red flags there. It is just alarming to me because this vehicle is starting to feel like the Ford Escape that I dumped for it (funny enough both cars have the same trans) but the escape had 120000 on the odo before the trans felt anything like this. I was hoping that the 6F35 would be all sorted by the 2018 model year, another thing to mention is that the previous owner did already get the recall service done on the trans. If anyone has any experience or feedback that would be much appreciated, I believe it is still under powertrain warranty so I may look into that but I would rather not if it is a small thing. Thanks for any replies! Update: Everything has sorted itself out, I would delete the post but I cannot find a way to do that.

Well yes as I said some may say that going aftermarket could be cheaper. For me at least, I know my way around a pick and pull as well as online retailers so getting the parts at a good price won't be hard. Looking at the large gauges of wire used in that area, it seems like it would be a good idea to leave the ford wiring intact. It also looks like the inverter is meant to have some sort of communication with the BCM so that is another reason I would say that stock here is probably better. Although for anyone that is into aftermarket mods, having a fused 12v line as well as a ground in the cab is pretty handy.

So after some thinking I did some investigation on my 2018 Ford Edge Titanium 300A to see if it was possible to add an AC outlet to the rear console of the car. As it turns out, it is actually pretty easy to do so. In these vehicles the outlet functions off of a DC/AC converter that is found underneath the passenger seat. In my Titanium (can't speak for other trims) the spot where the inverter should be was totally intact and Ford left over a wiring harness for it. Sometimes Ford's laziness really comes in handy . This connector is fused and connected to the BCM so from what I can tell all I would need to do to add the outlet would be to buy an inverter, outlet wiring harness, and outlet trim. Now this may cost in the ballpark of 300 dollars, which some may say is too much for an inverter. The good news however is that this solution is completely stock and requires no splicing. I will continue to post updates about this project as well as all of the factory manual material I used in case anyone else would like to attempt this project. If anyone has done this before it would be extremely beneficial if I could have the part number for the wiring harness from the inverter to the outlet. If and when I finish this I plan on morphing this post into a how-to guide just like my factory remote start guide. If anyone has any input or questions I will try to stay up to date on this post! Note: Due to the 4mb limit I have placed all of the files in this drive link: (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tUEdKOAMkMWUPQuIsCPs791ccQLHqlTE)

I have been wondering for awhile now if it is possible to do a front end swap between a 2019 Ford edge and 2018. The new style seems really appealing and such a swap doesn't seem too expensive with the amount of salvage yards around here. So far it seems like I would need to swap the hood, bumper, and headlights to accomplish this. If anyone reading this has a 2019 Edge I would be greatly appreciative of a picture of the wiring harness going into the headlight. It seems like they are the same but it is hard to be certain. Being that the 2019 was a mid generation refresh it looks as if all of the bumper mounts are exactly the same, as well as the general hood shape. I cannot tell looking at it online but it does not seem like ford changed the front quarter panels at all. Anyway if anyone out there has a '19 or '20 and would like to share some pictures of the headlight wiring or the bumper mounting that would be super helpful!

I gave another method a shot after mine started vibrating again. I waited a few weeks before posting so I could test that they have been working for me. Basically I used strips of duct tape to fashion my own washer between the gap. Once I got a good amount of tension I placed a zip tie around the duct tape to keep it secure. It might not be the prettiest or the most proper job, I'm sure foam is a better bet. For me though, this worked great. I figured I would post it for anyone just wanting to try a free fix, I am sure just about everyone has these supplies on hand.

Normally I would agree with that argument but ford did not advance the technology at all. The keys themselves still use the same encryption and still operate at the same frequencies. There are actually videos of hackers sending out signals to trick these new ford's into unlocking and remote starting. Like I said in my previous post there are still hack tools that can access PATS so this is no advancement in security. What ford did was make a conscious effort to lock people out of programming keys on their own ford branded scan tools. There was no need to do this other than locking out DIY'ers. I have to say I am quite shocked that so many people on a car forum are ready to defend the fact that they now have to pay someone to click buttons on a computer. Are you guys a part of the locksmith union or something?

Well anyone who would want to steal my car would need to be able to turn it on, have a VCM, and 10 minutes to access PATS (the old method). Was theft through pats programming really such a problem before, because I haven't heard of that where I am from. My point is if I have a VCM and I paid for IDS legit why should I also have to be a locksmith as well to work on my own car. To your point of bad mechanics stealing cars, there already exist tools that are able to add keys without going through fords stupid server, so I would imagine any mechanic in the business of stealing cars would use that rather than IDS. The locksmith that came to my place used one of these sketchy tools, so even he did not go through fords stupid method. So really this does nothing in terms of security except for locking out DIY'ers from being able to access a function on their cars. Why is it a '14 edge with keyless ignition can be programmed the old way but the '15 plus with keyless cant? Is there data to support that '14 edges are stolen more often than '15s? Not likely. All of my problems would be solved if Ford offered some method of vetting that would allow me to do this to my car, I will jump through any hoop as long as it isn't "owning a business with million-dollar insurance." I bring this up because right to repair is a big deal right now and this makes ford guilty of withholding repair information/ software. It is totally artificial competition to make me pay 200 bucks for some guy to click 2 buttons. I don't need him/her to waste their gas to come out, I don't want them hooking their shady computers up to my car (because of the stupid requirements), and I don't want to pay their insane price.

The Guide to Adding OEM Remote Start to The Ford Edge (2015+) and Other Similar Ford Vehicles Rewritten As of 2023 How this Works: The Ford Edge (2015+) and other similar generation Ford vehicles use the Body Control Module (BCM) to initiate remote start from the key. Likely due to simplicity, Ford has the logic for remote start built into every BCM regardless of whether remote start is equipped. This means in order to add remote start, like higher trim models have equipped, all that needs to be added is a remote start key fob and its corresponding antenna. Key fobs that do not use remote start operate at 300Mhz which fits its application of simply locking and unlocking at a short range. When remote start is equipped, a 902Mhz antenna and key fob are used to establish longer two-way communication between the fob and the antenna. Ford calls this antenna the Radio Transceiver Module (RTM). The upgraded RTM is sold through Ford Parts and is directly swappable to car, making adding OEM remote start cheap and easy (relatively). What You Will Need: - A 902mhz Radio Transceiver Module "RTM" (https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transceiver-7847223-1) - A key fob or two that have the remote start button (https://ebay.to/3GXXxBO) - A computer with FORScan and USB OBD II Scanner Disclaimer - As of writing this, swapping out the module does seem to cause loss of TPMS communication. This does not mean there is a fault with the TPMS sensors, they do not need to be replaced. Sometimes the signal can be relearned overtime. If a TPMS warning stays for a long time, the TPMS sensors may need to be reprogrammed. This can be done by purchasing a TPMS scan tool (https://a.co/d/2KBtWZ3) and following this guide to enter programming mode (https://bit.ly/3CGuTTg) replacing each flipping of the key with 2 presses of the start/stop button - Current programmed keys will stop functioning after the module swap How To Step 1: Key Programming - In order to program the new 902Mhz key fobs a few things need to be kept in mind about Ford's key programming logic. Regular users can put their vehicles in programming mode as long as they have 2 key fobs and less than 4 total keys programmed. If one of the keys are missing, the programming mode cannot be activated and a locksmith must use a specialized scan tool to wipe and add new key fobs. The Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) will show the total amount of keys programmed when scrolling though the vehicle settings menu. - If you have 2 key fobs, no other keys programmed, and the new 902Mhz remote, use this guide (https://bit.ly/3Xq9g1C) Step 2: Take Note of RTM Module Data in FORScan Before replacing any module, it is a good idea to make note of the AS-BUILT data so that different values can be copied over between old and new modules. For the RTM on the Edge, check that 751-01-01 reads "01FF 80DA" as this is what the new module will come with by default. If your value is different and there is an issue with the module, copying the values from the AS-BUILT may be helpful. Step 3: Enable Remote Start in FORScan Body Control Module (BCM): - Hood Switch - Change from "Not Present" to "Present" - Remote Start - Change from "Disabled" to "Enabled" Front Controls Interface Module (FCIM) - Remote Start - Change from "Disabled" to "Enabled" Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) - Remote Start - Change from "Disabled" to "Enabled" Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) - Remote Start - Change from "Disabled" to "Enabled" - Remote Start Climate Settings - Change from "Disabled" to "Enabled" Step 3: Replace RTM Module The diagrams and photo below show the placement and mounding of the RTM. This module is light weight and simple to remove. Use a fine metal pick to undo the smaller plastic connections. To gain access to the module, simply pull the headliner down enough to gain access. Not much force should be used, as the headliner foam could be permanently damaged. Conclusion After completing Step 3, the newly programmed key fobs should begin to function right away and remote start should immediately work. If there are any issues, double check the module is plugged in correctly, that it is reading in FORScan, and that all FORScan options regarding to Remote Start are set to "Enabled."

I have no problem creating a log in or anything like that. Ford clearly put blockers in place to keep the average joe out which to me is absurd. The way ford has it all the locksmith can just name their price for clicking 2 buttons on a computer, this is a task that I am perfectly capable of doing. It takes away any competition and it forces the consumer to spend money. Maybe that makes sense to some but to me I think that I should be able to program keys to the car that’s in my name and in my garage, the fact that ford thinks they can just out of nowhere take that away is egregious. Who’s to say that accessing modules at all isn’t this way in the future.

The thing is I have a VCM 2 and IDS so when I get another key in I would need to clear my PATS because I reached the max, but ford went off and decided that for their newest cars you are REQUIRED to be a licensed locksmith to access PATS on IDS. It absolutely boils my blood that I have the tools and means to program my keys but I have to pay some greedy locksmith 200 bucks for reprogramming. It’d be nice if there was some pushback on this policy but I guess not. It just sucks how anti-consumer everything is getting.

No it does not have the remote start button, I guess I should have done more research before just taking the sellers word for it. He is gonna let me return the key. I was just getting it as a cheap spare so I didn’t want to pay extra for the keys with remote start