colinc755

A drain and fill or 2 should be sufficient. I’d be careful resetting the adaptive tables at home, it’s a bit more risky than people give it credit for especially with these new transmissions. Ford has a very specific procedure for the drive cycle that should occur directly after a reset and it’s pretty impossible to do it safely on a public roadway. Shops that do it the right way use a dyno or similar.

No I do not have an ST and that's why this got me curious. Just serving from memory, I think November of 2021 was the latest one...could be wrong on that. I think this is something Ford has silently done to fix the issue. When ForScan is watching what gear you're in there is no circumstance I can get it to go to 2 no matter what surface or throttle level I give it. The only way to get it into 2 is to go into "S" and select it with the paddle shifters where I think the new ST's would still only be 7 in manual mode. If you have ForScan go into the data readout section and select "GEAR_ENGAGED" and take it for a spin. Maybe it has something to do with the learning cycle, but drive is skipping 2 always. Also worth noting I have a Titanium AWD so it's an 8f35. The ST Line powertrain is no different than the standard as well so any updates to those would also be applicable to a Titanium. If your Edge was built after March 11, 2021, I don't think the TSB applies.

I've been following this thread for awhile now and I thought I would report that finally at this point, the 8f35 in my 2019 Edge is shifting the best it ever has with the car having just over 87,000 miles on the odo and completely original parts, no torque converter change or anything. Each thing that has been suggested here, I have done overtime and I think it has added up to the success of fixing the problem, so I do think just about everything is necessary. 1. I have thoroughly replaced the fluid on this transmission through non-invasive fluid changes using only Mercon ULV. I am particularly strict on this one as my interval for it is every summer (not miles based). I do this partly because its cheap to do DIY and the fluid breaks down with heat. Living in Texas, the summers are pretty brutal as well as the traffic so I give it a refresh right when its needed most. 2. I got all the transmission flashes to update it as they came out since 2019. This honestly for me made a pretty big difference, especially the latest one. I can observe in ForScan that the transmission skips 2nd gear every single time now (effectively making it a 7-speed). This eliminates the rough 1-2-3 shift that was so common right when these came out 3. I did have the rear diff vibration on turning problem that started around '22 and did a fluid replacement in the rear diff in the summer of '23. Never got it reflashed, but it has gone away since then and I didn't observe any metal shavings in the old fluid. 4. Replaced the spark plugs a year ago and continue to do oil changes with only motorcraft oil and filters every 5k miles to keep the engine in peak condition. If you're over 50k and are on original plugs you'd be shocked at what a difference they make even if the interval is 100k. 5. Replaced the purge valve when it became problematic. Had the car stall once after a full tank fill and a new valve was in the next day. (That was more of a pain than people would lead you to believe getting the whole assembly out) 6. Replaced the EGR Sensor while I was doing the Purge Valve. This was something I was skeptical of, but I figured it was easy to do so might as well try it. Those are what's been done in terms of powertrain to this car and I'll say that it has made it much better to drive. I would say the fluid did 50% of the work while the update did 30% and the sensor at the end made it that much smoother. With the EGR sensor, I think you'll have better luck swapping it if you have an early build. Mine was built 09/2018 as a 2019MY so very early as far as that sensor was concerned. It is important to set expectations as these transmissions are never going to shift as smooth as what is in other makes. When I say my 8f35 is shifting smooth, it's not shifting like Toyota, its shifting like a healthy 6f35 would. While that is a crappy response to some of the general roughness, that's just the nature of the beast with getting a first MY transmission. The maintenance of these transmission is a lot, but I'd say is critical to getting this solved and making them last for awhile. Anyone that's got a 2021+, I'd probably focus energy on getting that fluid changed early and often as well as a learning reset. Not sure if this write up will help anyone, but I thought it would be good to show that the bucking was stopped totally DIY outside of the updates.

I wouldn’t go by anything on the frame necessarily because I’m not sure if the Edge sits level, but I’d just say to use a garage surface or a generally flat parking lot. I don’t think it needs to be perfect, but any areas with an obvious slope should be avoided as it could make the fluid seem falsely full.

When I’ve done it no more than .2qts, it’s all about how much you filled it in the first place. If you see nothing at all that usually means it’s too low. I like the strategy of seeing what came out, matching it, then starting the engine and cycling through the gears hanging out for 5-10 seconds in each one while cold (this can be done with the air filter box off in a garage free of debris, but that is risky. I recommend inserting a long funnel first then reassemble the air box before starting). Then leaving the engine running in park, I remove the level plug and add fluid until the more comes out the side. I’ve found that while cold trying to match what I drained still leaves me low by up to .8qts. Once I verify that, I put the plug back in and assemble it to the point of a test drive to get up to temp. Since the fluid expands with heat, filling it until fluid comes out cold will guarantee that it’s not under filled for what can be a 20 minute test drive.

Thanks for the write-up. May I ask what specific data points you observed during your diag? I took a look at a few things and was able to hold a steady 1500 RPM with a little work at the beginning. I have my 2019 8f35 on the latest software according to the TSB's and I am still getting lots of bucking especially in roundabouts. I think it's because the ones where I live have you in that perfect range of bouncing around 15mph. The car just surges back and forth between gears like a kid learning to drive stick. It makes up its mind when I am able to straighten out, but dang its jarring. For reference mine has 82.000 miles on the odo and has had 3 Transmission fluid changes in its life. Fluid has never contained any shavings or odd material.

Just wanted to share an update on this post. Once you have done this before and have taken out the flow restrictor on the 8f35, this job can be done much simpler. I was able to get the cap off and fit the funnel in with the airbox still attached. I loosened the 2 mounting screws and popped it loose while trying to free up any other slack I could and it moved just enough to jam a long funnel. I also found that with some careful positioning, it is possible to take off the leveling plug without removing the tire, though it is a tight fit and the wheel should be turned all the way to the right. This made the job take effectively 30 minutes start to finish, but it does require knowledge of where these parts are already located and an ability to reach these places with objects in the way. I have seen Ford Techs say it is alright to run the car a bit with the airbox off so long as you keep the are very clean, so that is an option if a funnel can't fit (though this does come with risks of course and keeping the airbox on will always be safer).

Has that worked for you on an Edge with the new fob? (I think like 2016+) As far as I have seen, the old PATS programming modes in ForScan do not work on any Edges after 1st gen. I think Ford uses some system with registered locksmiths to gain access to the PATS system on all of their vehicles. I originally had a blurb about it in the original write-up for this, but I thought it sounded too much like complaining. Maybe it does prevent theft and misuse, but to be honest the rate of theft on cars hasn't changed since they did this. The only thing that has changed is being forced to pay someone that gets a few more buttons to click on a screen than you do.

The best way to check would be to pull down the headliner just enough to see it in your ST. The non-remote start modules are half-sized and don’t take up the full bracket. This part number pulled up for me (F2GZ15607D).

That’s good to hear that my struggles with getting it back on weren’t just a lack of skill ?. There really isn’t a whole lot of room.

Theoretically, it may seem like the new blocks weren't used until that date, but the 2019 model year right as the refresh happened was the highest-selling year of that skew. Given how auto manufacturing works, many of those '19 sales were likely made before that supposed change. It is a good sign that we have not seen failures coming from 2019 Edges if such a large number were sold early. I can say from owning both a 2018 and 2019 Edge that the 2.0 used in my early-production model (it was one of the first Titanium Elites off the line) is a lot different than the one in 2015 through 2018 edges. In the same way the twin-scroll engines refreshed the 2011-2014 2.0 EcoBoost, the 2019+ 2.0's seem to be of a different "generation." The presence of the EGR system was changed, the appearance cover was deleted, and a few things moved in their mounting positions. While these changes don't sound like a lot, they signify that more things underneath were reworked. This is NOT the case for any of the other models listed on the TSB. The 2019 fusion never got a rework and overhaul. The MKC also never got one and was turned into the Corsair (which doesn't have the issue), and the Escape was also given a new generation around this time. Seeing as it was a block-level fix, I am willing to bet that the 2019 Edges rolled out with the new generation of 2.0, and the dates referred to there signify the date at which the blocks were swapped out in the supply chain for the existing models that were not receiving any accessory changes. What seems to be a key difference here as well is that all of the models listed here were married to the 6f35 transmission. In the supply chain, these are usually delivered to the assembly plant as a unit. ALL 2019 edges have the newer 8f35 transmission. Meaning that when the 2019 Edge's manufacturing process was designed, this newer block could have already been in mind. Again I mention that the other models here did not ever get the 8f35, so I think those dates signified when the existing stock of 2.0/6f35 combos ran out, and that is when Ford stepped in and changed the block for those existing models. I just want to state that this isn't confined but I think it makes sense given those dates and the lack of failures we have seen. I have been studying this issue for years now since getting my 2018 and have learned a lot (that engine plant stuff is total BS). The combo present in all of the 2019 Edge's (2.0/8f35) is one of Ford's most popular powertrains. The 2019 Edge was the start of it and does not seem to carry over the mistakes of the past. I don't think Ford was misleading people about which Edge's have it or don't in that TSB.

So I just did some searching with a lot of different VIN's of all trims and years on Ford Parts and it looks like all the TPMS sensors from all years operate at 315 MHZ so replacing them should not be required. Have you considered stopping by a tire shop and having them reprogram the sensors? They don't have to remove the wheels or anything to do that, many have a little tool that they can just walk around the car with and do in a few seconds. Not sure what they would charge, if anything at all, but that could be worth checking out. It would be logical that the TPMS sensors lost sight of the exact module they were programed to.

This information is already on the forum but you have to know what you are looking for to dig it up so I thought I would post it where others might see it. If you just purchased a 2019 Edge Titanium or ST, you may be missing out on a major feature because of a factory software issue. Some models of these trims can be equipped with Adaptive LED Headlamps that turn with the steering wheel to provide better visibility. Early on in the Edge production run for 2019, these headlights were flashed with the wrong software and do not do this even though they were built to. Ford recognized the issue and put out a fix in CSP 19B11. The date range has expired so you will likely have to pay if your dealer has fixed policies about module updating. Though do call around if you can, I had one dealer in my city that recognized it as a safety issue and did it for free. To see if you are eligible check your headlights and make sure they look like this. They must have 2 distinct beams and will have a solid amber strip for the turn signal. These headlights were only ever available on models that equipped them so a good rule of thumb is if you have the optional front camera, you likely have these adaptive headlights. If they look like this, you have a 2019 edge, and they are not turning with the wheel then you are missing out. MC-10160952-0001.pdf

In the 2019+ edges there is still wide disparity in headlight performance. I didn't know this until I had to get one replaced but the LED's in all the headlights that are not the Titanium Elite or top ST trim are pretty bad, at least according to the IIHS. You can tell if you have the "good" 2019 headlights if there are 2 separate lenses for low/high beams and if your turn signal is a strip and not a bulb. These headlights also turn with the wheel to give better cornering visibility. Kinda sucks but even with LED not all Edge lights are created equal.

Glad to hear you were able to get it to work. I was beginning to think that this method only worked for me. The TPMS thing is odd because changing them for the new frequency makes perfect sense. I have no idea why they all the sudden started working on my Titanium. Maybe there is something different about those in particular. I guess for anyone doing this, the sensors should be factored in to the cost. If you remember the exact things that need to be done with the hood latch, I would be happy to add them to the original post to negate any confusion.

Both. So I’ve worked about 5 19+’s in my town regarding AWD service (mind you it is hilly and we do get a lot of snow so AWD does get used a good amount). At around 50,000 miles the PTU fluid was still coming out rather clear with minimal flakes but the RDU was the opposite, pretty dark and flaked up. One of them even had significant grinding and vibration so it was sent to ford for a warranty repair. I’ve seen many 15-18s and on those RDUs the fluid always seemed rather fine. I’m not sure if it’s actually weaker or more of a unique case given the environmental conditions, but given that ford has doubled down on not touching RDUs by making fluid really hard to get, I don’t think it’s wise to not service them. That’s just my opinion from what I have seen and worked on. I’ll edit my post when I have time to make it more clear but I’m not advising that people change PTU maintenance patterns or anything, I just personally wouldn’t be worried about buying one with 50k on the odo and no history based on what I’ve seen (that is in terms of the PTU).

Hello everyone, I have been working on some 2019+ Edges and just thought I would share some observations that seem to really make this AWD system different. In case you are not aware, beginning with 2019 the Edge got a new AWD system that can completely disconnect the driveline in order to create more efficiency. In all the models up to 2018, the disconnect would happen at the rear diff rather than at the PTU. With this change allowing for less stress on the PTU, I have been noticing that PTU fluid changes are looking significantly cleaner on 2.0t models. I think it is safe to say that these units are getting much less wear and tear. I wouldn't advise not changing the fluid but for anyone that is looking at one of these used, I wouldn't be super concerned about the fluid history on the PTU as long you get it changed in a timely fashion. Unfortunately, I have been seeing much more wear in the rear diffs though. I don't know if Ford made them weaker or its that new fluid spec causing it, but Ford is really making it hard to change the fluid for the rear diff by making it really hard to buy. Many dealerships don't stock the new "75W" fluid and the maintenance guide essentially says not to touch it unless there is an issue. All this to say, when it comes to 2019+ AWD vehicles the PTU seems to be less of an issue and the RDU seems to be weaker. Just something to lookout for as an owner of one of these.

Yeah I would be lying if I said I was not in a similar boat with general transmission quirkiness. My 8f35 still surges and bucks every once and awhile even after the software update. There is one hill near where I live that is pretty steep and has a 25mph speed limit up it, the car just surges between 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 the entire way up. Mostly what it comes from is that Ford took a 6f35 and added a new gear between the old 1 and 2 and added an additional overdrive between the old 5 and 6. Problem is the 6f35 was notorious for already having a rough 1 to 2 so throwing another gear in there made the problem even worse. The new gears are so close to the old ones in ratio that the car cannot stay in them for long and has to jump to the next gear really quickly. If you let off the throttle during that process, it'll surge and buck. That is why the vast majority of issues are around the 25mph mark too, the overdrive gears in these are amazing. What frustrates me the most is that Ford recognized this and converted the software in the 2022+ ST models to skip the new 2nd gear, making it an artificial 7-speed transmission. This has made the newer ST's amazing to drive, and Ford has no plans of porting that software to any older ST's or 2.0's so we are stuck. Keeping up on fluids will help those quirks just remain as quirks and not endless damage.

Yeah so this whole idea generally comes from the 6F35 era. That was Ford's previous 6-speed that was found in everything and many outspoken ford techs like Ford Tech Makuloco stated that they found full flushes agitate these transmissions too much and can lead to issues. This was said to be because the transmissions are very sensitive with the clutch packs and have adaptive software that changes shift patterns based on fluid conditions. Changing too many properties of the fluid at once could cause some damage while the software catches up. The reason I apply this logic to the 8f35 is because of how similar it is to the 6f35 in that they pretty much share architecture and durability of components. A sump fill will allow for all of the preventative compounds that you need for excess ware to be refreshed, while allowing the transmission to still work under the patterns it has developed over time. Granted I don't have anything specific to prove this, and it's not nearly as much of an issue on cars that are well maintained. When I post on forums, I never know what the state of a persons vehicle is and with that mindset a sump drain is always preferable. I would hesitate to do a full flush at anything that is 60K+ and has had no preventative maintenance. For my own vehicles, I have always done sump drains and have found that my almost 70,000 mile transmissions shift better than other peoples 20,000 mile transmissions. Ultimately the best decision will come down to what you and the tech decide is the best for you specific vehicle, I am personally super cautious given the reputation ford transmissions have. Hope that helps!

Mine doesn't really work either. I have an iPhone 13 Pro that I can't get to charge at all. My AirPods Pro will charge but only if I take out the rubber mat and put them in a very specific spot. When I do this it makes my AirPods case really hot. Needless to say, the wireless chargers in these are probably the worst I've seen.

Where did you get your instructions for the level plug? Maybe you have to do all that on a fusion, but on the Edge with the 2.0 when you turn the steering wheel all the way to the left there's enough clearance to take off the level plug without removing anything but that bolt. It isn't as easy as a dipstick, I'll give you that, but it isn't all that hard either.

In the 2019 edge section I did a large write up about servicing the 8f35 transmission (the one that is in 2019+ edges with the 2.0 engine). It has a level plug in the drivers wheel well that has to be removed while the engine is running and the transmission fluid is at operating temperature to check the level. Unfortunately, the 8f35 is getting to be known as a rough transmission that might fail pretty easily. It needs fluid changes every 30,000 miles at the minimum for it to make it long past the warranty period. Many ford parts if they never have fluid changed will die pretty close to the end of the warranty period, Ford designs those fluids just long enough to do that and then it isn't their problem. As for yours, I don't think its dead yet and there are a few things you could try. 1. I would not recommend putting any Lucas stuff or transmission cure stuff in it, as it will likely just make things worse. These transmissions are designed with very tight tolerances and very specific fluid characteristics so it is probably not a good idea to mess with them. Many of those stop leak products were designed before cars got to be so complicated and computer controlled, so they mostly don't help anymore. 2. The fluid should be immediately changed not flushed at your local ford dealer. At 60,000+ miles, the Mercon in there is going to be pretty spent and the longer you go on the factory fill, the faster that transmission will die. Both the 6f35 and 8f35 react negatively to flushes because they can be very sensitive. In case you don't know the difference, a flush forces all the fluid in there out with pressure and fills the entire transmission with new fluid, while a change just drains the sump (about 1/3rd) of the fluid, and fills that gap with new fluids. For transmissions that are on the more damaged side, a change is way less shocking to them and has a greater chance of success. I also recommend a Ford dealer specifically because they will use OEM fluid, non-OEM fluid also really seems to kill 6f35 and 8f35's, lol I can't stress enough how sensitive these damn things are. 3. The last thing I would recommend is getting your transmission flashed with the latest update. Ford put out an update for the 8f35 in November of last year that attempts to solve some of the surging and bucking these transmissions do at lower speeds. For mine, this update did help a bit, and I imagine it will keep the components inside from waring out as fast since the car is no longer slamming gears left and right. This update will also clear out the adaptive tables of the transmission which will cause it to re-learn your driving style, this may also help with shifts. Sorry that was a whole digest, but these things require a lot of work to keep down the road. Ford has built up a bad reputation for transmissions, and honestly I think a lot of it comes from Ford not telling customers to do all the things I mentioned above. If after all of this nothing helps, unfortunately it just kinda is the way it is until it stops, but usually after the fluid change you'll notice a difference and after an update an even bigger one. It probably would be about a $500 dollar bill at a dealer which can be hard to spare in this economy, but it is way cheaper then going out of pocket for a new 8f35. I hope all that helped, feel free to reply if you have any questions.

Hello Everyone, I don't think this is a common thing but just wanted to make a note of it in case it begins happening to folks over the next few years. I have a 2019 Edge Titanium Elite (302A) with the adaptive swiveling LED headlights. Headlights are a tad confusing on the '19's since there are so many variations of them. From what I have seen there is the base LED equipped lights that SE's and SEL's could come with, the same base LED with the running light strip w/o turn signal strip that SEL's and Titanium's (300A and 301A) models came with, and finally there is the upgraded LED with running light strip and turn signal strip that 302A Titaniums and some highly equipped ST's came with. Anyone that has the 3rd model of headlight in their edge should also have headlight swiveling, but many '19's don't because Ford installed the wrong software at the factory. A dealer will kindly give you that feature that was on your build sheet back for around $250. I am not sure of any failure rates for these 3 styles of headlight, but mine are already dying after only a few short years. My left headlight has stopped swiveling and flickers on and off while driving. Normally people have said that Ford LED's will outlast the car, and while I expect that to mostly hold true, I thought making note of this could be a good idea. These lights are non-serviceable and require the whole 900+ dollar unit to be replaced if they go out. While LED's can be great, this non-serviceable trend becomes very evident when they fail. If anyone else has had this failure, feel free to comment below what it was like and which type of light you have, I am curious to see how all three types age. As for mine, the Ford ESP lighting upgrade is really going to come in handy .

That is good to hear that they left it accessible on the ST. The older 2.0's had a process very similar to yours and it was fairly easy. Good to see you noticed the wheel well accessibility for the level plug, I started thinking about that when I did it last and am going to try it next time. Removing the wheel isn't hard at all, but would be nice to skip if it wasn't absolutely needed. That fluid warmup time is also pretty crazy, I always try to tell people to really get a scan tool for it, because it takes a lot to get it up there.

That’s tough, I remember it taking like 5.5-6qts when it was all said and done but I like to have a margin for error so I always recommend buying 8 quarts for it. It’s around 5 dollars a quart if I remember right.