bofus

...ahh, I see that. I apparently missed it. Yeah, 13.6 is on the low side, but that SHOULD still charge, albeit slower than normal. Would need to see the amps being put out by the alternator as well. If the voltage is that low, then maybe the amps are also low and the system could be drawing more than what the alternator is providing with the car running.

Mid 14s when running is spot on, so your alternator is apparently working. You'll need to do a parasitic draw diagnostic process. There's tons of "howtos" out there on how to find the circuit in question and then figure out what is still "on" when the car is off. I had an Eclipse that had this problem...turned out the dumb glove box switch was misaligned and it wasn't turning off the light. VERY hard to see that and it took me a while to find it. It was supplied with 12v constant power and would kill the battery until I found it. Ensure all the doors are fully closed. Anything added to the car? Dash cam hard-wired into constant power? Radar detector? Etc?

I'll be driving along and it's raining...BARELY. I use the single wipe feature here and there. All of a sudden, the single wipe doesn't work. I then try to tun on the wipers...they don't work. Single wipe, intermittant, slow, or fast...no action out of the wipers. I've found that if I squirt the washers, then they fire back to life. It's happened a few times. The switch seems fine, the motor seems fine when they work, so? I don't hear the motor attempt to operate, the wipers just don't move. I THINK they start working on their own, but if you're stuck in big time rain and need to see, there's no time to wait and I luckily found that initiating the washers makes them spring back to life. Also on wipers (related?), if I use the rain-sensing function then the wipers will occasionally fly into hyperspeed mode when it's barely raining. I have set the controls to be manual intermittent control instead of the rain sensing function. Never had this with my '15 Edge, but it seems to be happening with my newer '18. Maybe I need a new rain sensor in the overhead pod? Any way to diagnose that?

Just put a Draw-Tite 75234 on my '18 Edge Sport. You just remove the heat shield and you're ok...hatch sensor works fine and no need to remove the bumper. The bar itself is invisible from the rear of the car and the hitch opening sits just below the rear valence, no need to trim that. They say to just leave the heat shield off the car, but I just trimmed a little off the wings to clear the hitch but still allow for the nuts to attach, then removed 4" from the middle to straddle the hitch, making it two pieces instead of one. I then used a stainless steel sheet metal screw and large washer to secure the upper part of the shield to the metal heat shield just below the floor in order to keep the piece from flapping around. I did it solo and was a little tough to get the bolts to go through even with the car on ramps and the hitch on jack stands. It'd be MUCH easier with another set of hands. I only use it for a bike hitch, so I've not added any wiring for a trailer.

So you mangled the factory antenna cable that goes to the back and not the radio itself, right? Ford antenna cable is: Antenna Cable (check this is for your vehicle) You MIGHT be able to splice in a connector...not sure how easy that'll be. Connectors

Did you replace the shocks yourself? Are they OEM? I assume you moved all the parts (rubber bump stops and such) from the old onto the new? The new ones don't come with all the bits or new dust shields and such. I had a blown shock that eventually seized up and would not move any longer. Hitting any small imperfection in the road would transfer right to my spine. I replaced with Ford OEM parts on both sides. Assuming that is all correct, it SOUNDS like something in the rear suspension must be binding and not freely moving through the suspension travel. I assume all the bushings are ok and the sway bar mount points are solid? Maybe you got bad shocks when you replaced them? It certainly sounds like the typical "worn shocks" behavior as something in the rear isn't being controlled/dampened.

Added molded mudflaps to my 2018 Ford Edge Sport. Bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083L9NS9D There was no documentation that came with my set. The rears fit perfectly and I felt good about the way they mounted. I did not like the way the fronts were to be mounted and so I got some additional hardware. For the 3 bolts inside the fender lining, I used these instead of their tiny screws. The little j-nuts that came with the mudflaps were too small to use. I did crimp these larger j-nuts down so they can't really move once you slide them onto the bottom rocker molding piece. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079C4M34G For the single hole underneath, it wasn't going to hold to just re-use the push-in fastener and it's too short anyhow with the added thickness of the mudflap. I drilled out the hole slightly in the body and installed a rivnut and used a threaded bolt to hold the mudflap and the bottom rocker molding in place. The mudflaps up front are NOT going anywhere now. No cutting of any fender lining or anything required. Only modification was enlarging the hold in the body slightly for a rivnut insert. Rivnut kit I used: (I think I used the M6 size for the bolt..I'd have to check) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMBHSMX

Replaced the factory HID bulbs (Sport model) out for the main beam with some bulbs from China. They are whiter (not blue) than the factory HID and match the other lighting on the car. No flickering that I've seen , but I've only been out a twice at night thus far. I've kept the old bulbs around in case I have any issues. Bulbs were pretty cheap at like $43 shipped and took a little over 2 weeks to get here. Visibility is much improved. I got these: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802757275161.html Options I got were the DS3 35000LM CANBUS. I think the 4300k would be that blue-ish light that I'm not terribly keen on having. The 35000 seem to be white enough. I didn't snap any photos as it's hard to capture. I removed each headlight (two 10mm bolts per side) to make it easier to work on the bench. Took me about 15 minutes per side. I did note that the little rubber dust cover on the passenger side (where the coolant overflow bottle is located) basically fell apart in my hand. I've ordered new ones for that side. I'm guessing the heat from the coolant tank degrades the rubber and turns it into an easily-tearable substance, much like fruit leather.

Junk like hand sanitizer, sun screen, hand lotion, and such can eat away the protective coating on surfaces and then those surfaces can deteriorate rather quickly. I don't know if that has happened in your case or how to reverse/stop it from getting worse. A buddy had a tube of sunscreen get everywhere and all the plastics around it turned to goo slowly over the next year or so.

It SOUNDS like maybe someone tried to force cables and possibly damaged the ports in the car. I did a Sync 2 to Sync 3 upgrade and never had issues with it becoming disconnected. On my '18 that came with Sync 3, the USB ports are also pretty stable. Since you said the cables don't make a difference, then it's likely the USB ports. You can replace the module if that is the case. I used this one for my Sync 2 to Sync 3 upgrade to get a USB-C port: https://www.amazon.com/Limnyves-Interface-HC3Z-19A387-B-HC3T-14F014-500196042/dp/B0BDDLWS8G To get at it, you need to remove the trim pieces on either side of the console (just snaps off), then remove the trim around the shifter (need to be out of Park), then you can get to the screws that will allow you to remove the little cubby where these usb ports are located. It just snaps out after you release the USB cable. Just reverse the disassembly directions and you're done.

I've not had this in my Edge; BUT, I have had this happen in my Focus. It usually goes to max AC mode and always when I had the entire system off, I think. I've not had it change speeds when the system was already on. It happens pretty rarely and certainly with no input from me. I've no idea why. In the past 5 years, it probably happened maybe 4-5 times. No clue why and I didn't bother taking it in as I don't see how they could possibly troubleshoot it when I can't replicate it on demand. So, it's rare that the entire HVAC is off in the first place.

Did you reset the BMS? Super easy to do. Hit the "Start" button without foot on the brake (don't actually start the car), flash the high beams 5 times, then hit the brake pedal 3 times. You'll see the little battery icon on the dash flash once it is done.

Yeah, dead battery. A "jump pack" would start it, but the low battery situation is freaking out the electrics. I was working on my '15 Edge for an hour with the ignition on and the battery didn't like it. That was all she wrote. A sign that your main battery is going out is if you can no longer unlock the car using the rear door or passenger door. It seems that if the battery is getting low, then Ford disables the proximity sensors in the other doors to preserve power. I know if I let my Edge sit for a week, then I can't unlock/lock the rear/passenger doors by touching the door. I thought I had bad sensors, but a new battery fixed that. Anyhow...long story short: your main battery is in need of replacement. Super easy to do. Don't forget to reset BMS so the car knows you have a new battery.

Replaced the little switch on the console as mine looked like someone took a pocketknife or something to it. It's the switch for those with auto-park and has the parking sensor override. New switch was like $80 and was easy to replace without any tools: pop the side console panels, pop the gear-selector surround, then pop this out from the back. Switch still worked, but it was bugging me.

My '15 rear shocks died at about 60k miles; well, actually just one. It seized solid and would NOT move, making it "crash" over bumps until I replaced it. They are cheap/easy to replace if you're mechanically inclined, really. It was the only issue in my '15; though, I did do a Sync3 upgrade which is a must. Needed rear brake shoes too at about 60k miles while the fronts were fine. That's odd since the fronts SHOULD be doing the majority of braking, so maybe this is something to do with the electronic parking brake or something. Same thing is happening with the Mrs Volvo: rears down to 4mm while the fronts are at 8mm. This is with the Sport model and the 2.7l turbo motor. The motor in the car is also pretty important in this discussion, obviously. Early '15 models had water ingress issues due to a manufacturing defect. This was rectified around May of 2016, as I recall. There's a smoking issue related to the oil feed tube in 16-17 models with cutoffs dates in there somewhere. The '19+ are nice, but it seems they removed some features and the ST version also has an all-black headliner area, making the interior feel a bit like the bat cave. Some like it, some don't, and some don't even notice until you point it out to them. I've got an ''18 Sport and have only had it a few months. I THOUGHT maybe I was using coolant, but a dealer checkup says "all good". I'll monitor coolant levels. It's an easy car to maintain and the technology