kruzr1

I was able to gain access by unplugging and removing the headlight assy.

You might also need to set your opening height of the liftgate. Manually move the liftgate to the max opening height or wherever you want it. Then press and hold the open/close button until it beeps for confirmation. Hopefully this may be all it needs. I'm thinking it might've gotten confused?

The midsection heat shield on my 2019 ST probably causes some noise. Some of the mounting ears where they attach to the body are broken so it's not as solid. I have a replacement but haven't figured out how to remove the old one yet.

Glad it worked out

I live in Wisconsin and so far I have not had this happen. I'm not sure exactly where your doors are freezing. I usually apply a coating of silicone to the door seals. I also make sure the seal underneath that runs from the front to the rear doors is clean and apply silicone. Probably not something everyone does? I've been using the silicone treatment for years and never have a problem. By the way this isn't just a Ford thing. I worked at a retail parts store and would see people with all different types of vehicles have this issue.

That doesn't seem right. There should've only been approximately the difference between what you drained and what you added come out the level plug. Was your vehicle sitting level when you did the fluid level process? Did the transmission fluid temp reach normal operating temperature?

I've used weathertech before and they installed easily and were durable. Unfortunately they don't make a set for the ST model.

I. would not suggest using the old traditional thick, black coating. Instead consider using something like fluid film, crown etc as mentioned in the video below. You can do it yourself or I have heard there are quite a few business's in Canada that apply this.

My 2019 ST has always made this noticeable "chirp" type noise. It happens when I either unlock the vehicle with the remote or using the door handle. If I don't start the vehicle it chirps again approximately 30 seconds later.

Sorry but I'm a little confused on the vehicle application, if someone could clarify I would appreciate it. The TSB says 2015 - 2017 Edge would be eligible for the new oil pan. I thought later years were using the rtv sealant on the oil pan also? Unless it's referring to those years also needing the valve covers. I only have about 35,500.miles on my 2019 but so far have not noticed any oil leaks.

I have an ST also with about 35000 miles. I change my oil twice a year, once in the fall and once in the spring. Which comes out to about 3500 - 4000 miles in between. Never had an issue with oil consumption. Only use full synthetic oil. I do find it hard to get a proper reading on the dipstick sometimes, depending on how I pull it out and which side I'm looking at. I wonder if some of these oil consumption reports might be oil leaks, such as the infamous oil pan, or improper oil refill like omar302 suggested.

Welcome aboard

I'm definitely not an expert on a/c systems, but isn't 275 a bit high for the high side reading. Did you check/replace the valves in the low and high side ports?

Perhaps the battery monitoring system needs to be reset since you had the main battery replaced.

Greetings and welcome to the edge forum

I have this same issue although I'm not sure I would call it a rattle. Maybe more of a single lower pitched sound, not necessarily metallic. I made repairs to the ESD strap mentioned in the thread you referenced. That didn't change this issue.

Think he's referring to 7A010A and 7A010B in the parts diagram above. Perhaps they're mixed up.

Perhaps after you make the turn the plug then just pulls out? I have seen some that removed this way but I'm not sure.

According to Amazon's website, the shocks that enigma-2 listed are not for an ST model. If you're going with the OE replacement which are Bilstein you probably won't find them for $45. This is what I found on Amazon when I looked up my 2019 ST: Amazon.com: Bilstein B4 OE Replacement 15-19 Ford Edge Rear Twintube Shock Absorber (19-283081) : Automotive

I recently changed my rear brake pads and rotors with AutoZone elite brake pads and duralast gold rotors. I. have the standard ST brakes on ,mine. I replaced them because there were groove patterns on the driver side rotor for some time now. The pads were actually OK, no unusual wear so I don't know what was causing it. I did replace all the hardware and so far so good, but I don't even have 1000 miles on them yet. If you're doing the rears yourself make sure to put the parking brake in service mode! My front brakes are doing fine. Also, I cleaned most of the rust off and used brake lube on the contact points indicated in the service manual. I also sprayed fluid film around the hub area etc to help slow the rust. My wheels and rotors were stubborn to get off.

I have a friend with a 2021 ST and he says it does not have the external cooling on the PTU. I have a 2019 ST and it definitely does. Did Ford delete this?

If he has an ST model the PTU doesn't have a drain plug unfortunately. But definitely would stay with the Ford recommended fluids especially if your vehicle is still under warranty

I have to clarify that my post on the battery installation was on a Edge ST. Did not realize the OP was about the 3.5 engine at first. Although I believe most of the information still applies. Concerning the use of forscan, I don't think you need to use it unless you're using a different battery than the original equipment type. Everything on my vehicle is working fine using the method in the video.

I believe the group 65 battery would be to wide and tall.

Recently replaced the battery in my Edge. It was approximately 4 years old and I replaced it with an H6 AGM. I was getting the telltale signs of needing a battery replacement when only my drivers door handle would unlock the vehicle and start/stop would not function. I tried resetting the BMS with a scan tool I have but said it wasn't supported, kinda odd I thought. So I used the method in the video above and it worked fine. Replacing the battery itself is relatively easy and straightforward. I removed the air box assembly to gain access to the battery. One thing I noticed on the IPC for the start/stop information before replacing the battery, it would almost always say not functioning due to vehicle charging. I'm guessing this might also be putting more stress on the alternator since the system thinks the battery needs to be charged constantly. When I tested the old battery it was at 72% charge.