Jombi

I've read a bit about a Dragy device and a VBox, which appear to be high-precision GPS based devices. Due to the high cost of the Dragy and Vbox's, I've been using just an OBD2 adaptor with an app called CarScanner. I'm assuming it just hooks into the cars speedo and uses the phone's timer. So I guess the question is, how accurate would the car's speedo be, and when does the CarScanner pick up the first "move", ie, is it giving a 1ft roll or is it just detecting the first speedo non-zero input, and I guess same questions for the gps devices. Thanks, --jim

I’ve only got 1000 mi., but on my first medium length day trip I got 21.5, and that included a few 80-120 blasts.

Yeah, I can see the logic there...I was just taken aback because they led with the scare tactics.

I guess this is an academic question for most cars--but I've never had one before when I've replaced tires unless the size is significantly different. Yet this one shop mandated a $130 alignment with the purchase/mount/balance of their tires, giving me the whole scare-story about wear and tear and even driving off the road. I don't see the sense--it's not like the stock alignment "compensates" for normal wear and then a new set of tires will now throw it off. My Edge has 1000 miles and I want to put stock-size winter tires on it and that +$130 is a deal breaker. Thanks,

Just did exactly that, left the tube in there just in case. Thanks!

That sound like it'll work, I'll give that a try, thanks!

Ok, so this may seem a small annoyance, but I want to see if anyone can explain the reasoning behind this insane cupholder design (2019 Edge): The console cupholders have four spring-loaded hinged "clamps" to hold in the cup as you slide it down into it. However, the hinge of these is on the *bottom* of the clamp so for the clamps to compress inward, they must travel *upward*, against the cup that you're putting in! You need to overcome your own force to get the springs to compress inward. If you're putting in a styrofoam cup or paper drink cup--forget it--you'll crush the cup. Even with a heavy ceramic cup I've found that the force needed to push the cup in to overcomes the counter-intuitive upwards movement of the clamps always causes a sudden jolt--and now I've spilled coffee. I'm just wondering if anyone has noticed this and if maybe I'm missing something and there actually is some method behind this madness.

I have not experienced this. But I’m only running the 91 tune (but still using 93 Shell gas) so not sure how differently they do the boost on 93. Yesterday was a beautiful day and I was heading back from a trip, the interstate was very sparse, and I had a few opportunities to do 80-120 runs. They were effortless and smooth, no jitter. The car feels very confident and sure at that speed, it’s a great feeling!

Elsewhere in the main forum I posted these, I just couldn't take the look of those stock exhaust tips. It's still the stock exhaust, but I think the tips look better, even if they are in the trapezoidal shaped bumper cutout. No welding needed, I commented on how I fit these here:

tk2fast, while there are TSBs, my dealer would not perform them--I came in there with the first one, which had a fix consisting of reflashing the trans calibration--but they showed me a superseding one that said to ignore the first one and that the problem needs more research (!!). So they basically said, yes they're aware of the problem but the first fix wasn't sufficient and they are working on a new one and they are under direction to not perform any fix until the "new, official" fix comes out. This was in mid Sept 2019.

So this is just an observation about that animation on the left side of the dash. That thing may be inaccurate and all things considered I don't really care but I'm just wondering if I'm seeing this correctly or not thinking of something that may cause this: When I'm on warm, dry pavement--i.e, very traction-rich conditions--I'm seeing that animation send equal split to the rear differential when I *mildly* accelerate. I mean gentle, grandma-like rolling away from the stop. Then giving ever-so-slightly more gas, to see if the front animation grows more and the rear diminishes, I *still* see the rear getting equal torque. Again--all the inputs that's I've read this system looks for to engage the rear diff--wipers on, wet pavement, cold out, heavy throttle--are the opposite--and it should not come close to engaging the rear diff. Now, I'm not as smart as a computer, but I will bet my life that in these gentle accelerations where I'm seeing that animation show a big chunk of torque to the rears, those front tires are not even close to slipping. So...again, not the end of the world but just an observation I'm wondering if anyone has seen.

I had the same thing, even in sport mode it was not consistent or predictable. I got a Livernois tune and aside from helping with the engine calibration, it helps with shift timing. It keeps it in gear to closer to redline (where the stock calibration would, even at WOT, decide 4500 was a good shift point), and the upshifts are firm and quick.

I just said it was something that may be a possibility, but it's moot now, I did edit my post because I'd realized the Edge ST 8-speed was not the GM "rigged" 9-speed, it was Ford's upgraded 6-speed. Either way, it's still not optimal. If something is drawn up to be a 9-speed and a gear is removed, sure maybe that's not ruinous, but it's a significant change from the engineers' original design so it is simply not optimal.

I think it's wise to ground the car until the dealer has a look. This is because the nature of the leak--something that happened immediately after a harsh shift--as opposed to something that built up very slowly over time, which would often indicate failing gasket material (which I believe is now liquid gasket as opposed to old-school paper/neoprene gaskets). Anyway, because you noticed this right after a heavy incident, there's a possibility of a crack and that's something that could get much worse or outright fail in a drive.

Also, this 8-speed is GM's modified 9-speed--with a gear removed. Right there that says there was a design and a calibration strategy that had to be jury-rigged by Ford right out of the gate. Not sure if that has anything directly to do with it but this is a hacked tranny from the get-go. Sorry, my info was wrong, this is the re-designed 6-speed, the GM-build 9-to-8 speed was for lower torque cars.