Jombi

Is it possible there's a safety limiter built in? I.e, there is a possibility that the system simply can't cool the condenser enough at 0 mph and full fan speed when it's 114 deg. out so to save itself it shuts down the compressor until enough airflow is available to safely run it (I'm referring to the OP who's in AZ...I'm assuming you're in Vermont based on handle, which I doubt is 114 deg. but still the premise may be valid).

Yes, the pure aluminum stuff, 4in. wide.

Here is the link for what I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGQCFNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did they replace the drain tube it at all, or just kinked it or something? I ask because it's normally (and I'm not sure about your year) not as bad to un-kink or un-clog an evap drain tube, but if it isn't there at all then...yeah...dealer needs to get back in there.

I tried last night and got it to work rip or some items with the tune installed, and I think it was a combination of a couple of things. First I let it load the live profile instead of re-loading my last saved profile (I save the profile each time with comments on what I change), so that I think helped, thank you for that. Second, on some of the modules, I’d get a “battery voltage low” warning, when going into the programming mode for that module—not all modules though. It was in those modules I’d get the error when writing a change, which was “service procedure interrupted”. I think that when I’d reinstated the stock tune, I’d drive the car a bit, which charged the battery, then when I went to programming mode subsequently, I would not get the battery low warning and those module changes then succeeded. I had a charger and hooked it up when I first got the low battery warning but somehow even after 20 min charging, and testing voltage with a multimeter, FORScan always seemed to display the low voltage warning for those select modules even though I know there was plenty of charge. This may be a bug in FORScan.

Yes, I got the 2 month free license.

Does one need to revert custom tunes to stock before doing these Forscan changes? I don't know if I have the wrong version of Forscan or not (I've tried the three latest betas) but I get an error to the effect of "Can't change config". However, on a hunch, I reverted my LMS tune back to stock, and attempted the exact same changes, and Forscan changed them fine. The changes did indeed work, even after re-applying the tune. So I'm just wondering if this is a known thing--that you revert to stock before messing with Forscan, or if I am doing something wrong.

I’m fine with the catless and defoulers, but would my current LMS tune need to be remapped? I don’t know all the F/A ratio algorithm theory and how the pre & post O2 inputs affect that, but it seems there would be something in the tune that would have to account for the changes in O2 inputs. Im good as long as I could get the tune to take full advantage of the extra flow of a catless system.

Would this be true for Hi-Flow cats? That was my plan, not catless, but that would still be more flow than stock so I may still not get the full advantage with the LMS tune. They (LMS) had specifically asked me for any Intake or Exhaust mods when I ordered the tune so it seemed then like they would take that extra flow into consideration so I'll clarify that with them. I was all in for the ~$1100 cost of the pipes, even the major surgery on the front clip, but another $500 or whatever for a new tune is going to put this on hold for a bit.

I’m late to the party here, but I read the whole thread with interest. My question is: Will the downpipes alone, tapering into the stock catback, give this platform a significant Hp/torque increase, assuming I’ll have a tune that considers this mod (I have Livernois tune for a pure stock ST). By significant, I mean say I get + 30 hp at the crank from my current tune and stock downpipes, would you estimate this mod with a tune for it might get +45 hp? Ie, the stock downpipes are the weak link here? I realize a lot depends on Livernois but I’m looking to gauge a ballpark figure as to how “liberating” this downpipe mod is.

Sorry, I misread your other post, I thought you'd done a full exhaust and intake mod. Those are great times for that chip on pure stock!

Are you brake-torquing when you do 0 to 60? I’m running a mid-level Livernois tune (the 91 octane one) and I get consistent 5.6 without brake-torquing with it and some thick cold air I get 5.2 What did it cost to open the exhaust? Did you get a full system from down pipes to tail? That may be one of the best mods to do but I’m a little wary of both cost and supplier, there’s a lot out there and If you have a recommendation I’d be interested.

Yep, I did that for tuning, it’s just that the wording is confusing and I was mainly wondering if there was some actual different “state” of key-on, aside from “on” and “engine running”.

I wasn't sure where to post this, it seems like a dumb question. When I'm using Forscan or the Livernois Tuner, they say turn the key "on". But Livernois says don't have any accessories on. There is only one thing that happens when I have the key with me an push the button--it goes into full accessory mode, all power on. Then of course if I hold the brake and push again I start the car. But there is no "off", "on", "acc" like the old cars with metal keys had. So when Forscan or the other say "On, but no accessory", what does that mean? Thanks,

Not something I did directly with my Edge, but I did it *for* my Edge and me. I put a 240v Infrared heater in my garage. I can now detail when it's -20 deg. out, I can change the oil and do all of that stuff regardless of weather. I'm in Illinois, so by code I have to run conduit, and the garage physically as far from the breaker box as it could be, so it took a while to run the conduit, and had to shut down the whole house's power to add the 40 amp breaker. Then pulling the wire--and if you've ever seen 8 guage stranded--I think you can call it cable without argument. It's 7500 watt and will give me a 50 deg. temp rise in about a half hour. Electric bill is not too bad yet because we haven't hit 20 below yet. Only about $250 for the unit, then quite a few hours running conduit.

That is a nice looking car--I agree about avoiding the 21" blackout wheels. I know it's a popular look but I prefer the silver/chrome/aluminum look. Black wheels always make me think of someone who never takes time to clean the brake-dust from their wheels so my initial gut feeling when I see black wheels is "wash your car!". They're popular enough now so I'm starting to come around, especially if they're gloss. And on that note--that flat finish for wheels or sheet metal is something I don't think I'll ever want.

Not sure what the 2.0 cover is made of but the 2.7 cover is some sort of foam. So a flexible bumper paint might be the way to go.

I have been there, done that, but in the big picture a lot of these types of things fall on the dealership, and many if not most makes can have bad dealerships. I swore off ford years ago after getting stranded by a bad fuel pump. This was in the late 80s before the internet but I used every resource I could—even my local library—to find the regional rep for Ford at the time because the dealer would only give me contacts that were basically customer-service shills who had no power, and of course were siding with the dealer. Anyway, I finally got a name and number, called the person, and started going into my story. Because I was so upset and long-winded, he just politely stopped me and said “Let’s make this easier. What are you asking for that will make this right?”. I listed the towing bill, the repair bill, and rental car bill, the total at the time came to about $550. He said “Done, let’s get your address and you’ll have a check in 7 days”. I got my check, and was happy as a clam, and steered clear of that particular dealership forever, but have bought several Fords since. Moral of the story—take your issue to Ford Corporate, not the dealership.

I checked with an engineer from Mark Williams Enterprises, a manufacturer of axles for dragsters and other race cars. He said the failure torque would be exactly the same--but the longer axle would take a split second longer to fail because (as you suggest) it would twist first then snap, while the shorter one would just snap. But back to the Edge itself--the rear shafts are still significantly thinner (and I have to assume the same grade of steel) so they definitely won't handle what the front will. That's kind of what got me down this path--I'd been used to working on friends trucks and Wranglers and I'd see super beefy drivelines both front and rear. It was actually when I got my Tucson a couple years ago, which is smaller and over 800 lbs lighter than the Edge, and seeing the relative pencil-thin rear axles on that thing it was a real shock.

Yes I agree that for some Mfrs the 4WD/AWD may be intermixed these days from a marketing standpoint. I guess it's the 4x4 that is the designation that really stands separate--that should mean "this vehicle has a transfer case" at the very least, meaning no messing around with some computer or logic to decide when the other propshaft is turning, and really I think that 4x4 should also mean it has at least one locking or LSD front or rear differential, preferably both. But 'm not sure I follow you on the physics of the shorter axle handling less torque. The shorter the axle (and in my case it's also much thicker) will be less prone to torsion/twisting, and is also stronger and thicker, so I'm not seeing how it would handle less torque than a longer axle, even of the same diameter. For me the distinction between torque and load is still a little fuzzy to me, but if I had a power source--whatever it may be--and it had some sort of power-take-off shaft to turn whatever--a generator, a water pump, or a car's wheel, I would think a short thick shaft would be the most direct way to transmit as much torque as possible to the power source with the least loss through torsion, etc. The longer shaft (given the same material) is always going to be prone to distortion through torsion--even if it's supported by bushings along the way to keep it from sagging. I'd welcome any elaboration on that, thanks!

Yes but you still want to stay in gear and get that last 1500 rpm from 4000 to 5500. Just because the HP isn't at peak after 4000 doesn't mean it's time to shift--you're still accelerating greatly between 4000 & redline so given the overhead of the shift you want to use that all up. I'd rather spend that last half second or whatever it takes to get from 4000 to 5500 and make the most of what the transmission spent on shifting time--and then do the upshift. If every shift was only using the rpm range from 3000 (or a little above) to 4000, you'd need a lot more gears and the overhead of shift time would kill the 1/4 mile time. I just came home from an appointment and just trying to watch the tach, I see that the sweet spot (and this is with Livernois so it will differ from stock) is around 3500--that's when I feel the Gs come on string and that is the point where I want the upshift to begin. Then I'll take that shift and ride it all the way to just before redline--and ideally for acceleration runs each shift should be set to so the next gear starts in the 3000/3500 range--whatever that sweet spot is. But being a multi-use vehicle, it has those extra gears for towing, etc., so it's not perfect. I'm going to find some time and try some runs using the manual paddle and see if double-tapping the upshift will go to the one I want without delay. I really wish the normal D or S modes would clearly display the actual gear we're in so I'd have a better idea of what's going on in non-paddle mode, because I'm still not sure which gear it's skipping but given the ratios shown--I'm OK with it skipping the 3 or 4 gear because they're so close and I think it needs to skip one of those. --Jim

Mine doesn’t either with the stock tune, but with the Livernois tune it goes just past 5500 Before shifting and the next gear has no bogging, it’s giddy-up and go immediately and the shift itself is so fast it feels like a double-clutch trans. That shift is what catapults me ahead of non-turbo, larger engine cars because I’m in the boost already and I pull away easily. Of course that tune is probably adding nearly 30 hp at the crankshaft, so I’m probably at ~365 Hp. Mine, with that tune will take care of the Lexus RS Fsport, and just barely eek out against a BMW X5 Xdrive. Another member hear had troubles with a Honda Passport while his Edge was in stock tune, I was surprised to learn the Passport is rated at 5.8 0-60. I really wish we didn’t have to put aftermarket tune on these to get what I would consider “true” ST performance to outdo some of these other SUVs, but it’s where we’re at unfortunately, and for me the ~$600 was worth it. And I’m only on the 91 tune, I had the 93 tune for a week or so and it was absolutely vicious, but I didn’t have my dragy then so I don’t have any real numbers. I’m guessing 0-60 in the high 4s but due to turbo lag it’s hard to realize much more gains in a roughly 350 foot run to 60 mph, but dragy or not I felt invincible on the highway with that 93 tune, totally effortless 80 to 120 mph—almost scary.

Yes they are rated for what they can withstand on torque from a design perspective. But I’m referring to the strategy of when to upshift and where the ratios should be. You don’t want to upshift this ST at 3000 rpm, your gonna want to upshift at the engine’s Hp peak near redline and begin the next gear where the torque is, at 3000.

Yes but generally the actual horsepower (actual work done) is what you want, so I think ideally you’d shift out of the gear at highest Hp rpm, near redline, and the ideal gear ratio of the next gear would have you start at or near that max torque rpm so there’s no bogging, and ride that Hp train back to redline again. If the ratio of the next gear is too close, the overhead of the shift itself negates the gain because you’re only riding half of the horsepower sweet spot, lasting too short a time to make the shift worth it. So I think some of those ratios were chosen for slower speed, heavy load towing, and should be skipped when racing.