Jombi

Is it possible there's a safety limiter built in? I.e, there is a possibility that the system simply can't cool the condenser enough at 0 mph and full fan speed when it's 114 deg. out so to save itself it shuts down the compressor until enough airflow is available to safely run it (I'm referring to the OP who's in AZ...I'm assuming you're in Vermont based on handle, which I doubt is 114 deg. but still the premise may be valid).

Yes, the pure aluminum stuff, 4in. wide.

Here is the link for what I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGQCFNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did they replace the drain tube it at all, or just kinked it or something? I ask because it's normally (and I'm not sure about your year) not as bad to un-kink or un-clog an evap drain tube, but if it isn't there at all then...yeah...dealer needs to get back in there.

I tried last night and got it to work rip or some items with the tune installed, and I think it was a combination of a couple of things. First I let it load the live profile instead of re-loading my last saved profile (I save the profile each time with comments on what I change), so that I think helped, thank you for that. Second, on some of the modules, I’d get a “battery voltage low” warning, when going into the programming mode for that module—not all modules though. It was in those modules I’d get the error when writing a change, which was “service procedure interrupted”. I think that when I’d reinstated the stock tune, I’d drive the car a bit, which charged the battery, then when I went to programming mode subsequently, I would not get the battery low warning and those module changes then succeeded. I had a charger and hooked it up when I first got the low battery warning but somehow even after 20 min charging, and testing voltage with a multimeter, FORScan always seemed to display the low voltage warning for those select modules even though I know there was plenty of charge. This may be a bug in FORScan.

Yes, I got the 2 month free license.

Does one need to revert custom tunes to stock before doing these Forscan changes? I don't know if I have the wrong version of Forscan or not (I've tried the three latest betas) but I get an error to the effect of "Can't change config". However, on a hunch, I reverted my LMS tune back to stock, and attempted the exact same changes, and Forscan changed them fine. The changes did indeed work, even after re-applying the tune. So I'm just wondering if this is a known thing--that you revert to stock before messing with Forscan, or if I am doing something wrong.

I’m fine with the catless and defoulers, but would my current LMS tune need to be remapped? I don’t know all the F/A ratio algorithm theory and how the pre & post O2 inputs affect that, but it seems there would be something in the tune that would have to account for the changes in O2 inputs. Im good as long as I could get the tune to take full advantage of the extra flow of a catless system.

Would this be true for Hi-Flow cats? That was my plan, not catless, but that would still be more flow than stock so I may still not get the full advantage with the LMS tune. They (LMS) had specifically asked me for any Intake or Exhaust mods when I ordered the tune so it seemed then like they would take that extra flow into consideration so I'll clarify that with them. I was all in for the ~$1100 cost of the pipes, even the major surgery on the front clip, but another $500 or whatever for a new tune is going to put this on hold for a bit.

I’m late to the party here, but I read the whole thread with interest. My question is: Will the downpipes alone, tapering into the stock catback, give this platform a significant Hp/torque increase, assuming I’ll have a tune that considers this mod (I have Livernois tune for a pure stock ST). By significant, I mean say I get + 30 hp at the crank from my current tune and stock downpipes, would you estimate this mod with a tune for it might get +45 hp? Ie, the stock downpipes are the weak link here? I realize a lot depends on Livernois but I’m looking to gauge a ballpark figure as to how “liberating” this downpipe mod is.

Sorry, I misread your other post, I thought you'd done a full exhaust and intake mod. Those are great times for that chip on pure stock!

Are you brake-torquing when you do 0 to 60? I’m running a mid-level Livernois tune (the 91 octane one) and I get consistent 5.6 without brake-torquing with it and some thick cold air I get 5.2 What did it cost to open the exhaust? Did you get a full system from down pipes to tail? That may be one of the best mods to do but I’m a little wary of both cost and supplier, there’s a lot out there and If you have a recommendation I’d be interested.

Yep, I did that for tuning, it’s just that the wording is confusing and I was mainly wondering if there was some actual different “state” of key-on, aside from “on” and “engine running”.

I wasn't sure where to post this, it seems like a dumb question. When I'm using Forscan or the Livernois Tuner, they say turn the key "on". But Livernois says don't have any accessories on. There is only one thing that happens when I have the key with me an push the button--it goes into full accessory mode, all power on. Then of course if I hold the brake and push again I start the car. But there is no "off", "on", "acc" like the old cars with metal keys had. So when Forscan or the other say "On, but no accessory", what does that mean? Thanks,

Not something I did directly with my Edge, but I did it *for* my Edge and me. I put a 240v Infrared heater in my garage. I can now detail when it's -20 deg. out, I can change the oil and do all of that stuff regardless of weather. I'm in Illinois, so by code I have to run conduit, and the garage physically as far from the breaker box as it could be, so it took a while to run the conduit, and had to shut down the whole house's power to add the 40 amp breaker. Then pulling the wire--and if you've ever seen 8 guage stranded--I think you can call it cable without argument. It's 7500 watt and will give me a 50 deg. temp rise in about a half hour. Electric bill is not too bad yet because we haven't hit 20 below yet. Only about $250 for the unit, then quite a few hours running conduit.