boostededge

My thought and hope as well. When I reinserted the cooler it "felt" good and "clicked/plopped" into place. A feeling I would get if an o-ring connection was seated. At least that's what I tell myself

Here's to hoping that end o-ring holds that fiber gasket on. I would have removed the cooler completely but the subframe was in the way. Maybe if the exhaust gets dropped you can swing the metal element down.

Not lot of detailed info on this; only a handful of threads here. The procedure was pretty simple but has gotchas and other things I didn't really care for. For example the torque on the PTU fill plug, you'll never get 33 ft/lbs on that. I stopped turning before I got to 28 ft/lb and noticed the plug was deeper than when I first took it out and stopped. There's also no way, as mentioned in another thread here, that you can completely remove the PTU cooler without removing the crossmember there. You can however, pull the cooler out far enough to drain the fluid. Make sure not to screw up the o-ring on the cooler though, or you will be dropping the crossmember. Those of you with just a plug here and no cooler don't have to worry about this as your plug comes right out. Here's the fill plug and PTU cooler with the stud/nut showing. When I opened the fill plug not even a dribble of fluid came out. I had to use a combo of 1/4" 8mm socket and 8mm flex head closed end ratchet on the nuts. Or you can drop the exhaust. I kept the 1-piece stud/nut and just reused them. The PTU cooler pops out easily, or as much as it can before hitting the subframe. The coolers metal rod elements extend the length of PTU basically. Here she is draining. You can see the o-ring - do not mess it up. Brake cleaner will be your exhausts best friend. I'd say I spilled an ounce or more other than what's in the container but I tried to measure what came out of it. In the sun. Didn't look too bad I thought for 40k miles but idk. Reinstalled PTU cooler and cleaned everything up. Inserted the stud/nuts and torqued to 97 in/lb Here's what I use to fill up transmissions and differentials. Just a regular water vacuum pump you can get on Amazon for $10. Easy peasy no mess no pumping just press a button. I put as much oil as it would take until it started streaming out. Then I spun the tires several times by hand and waited a few more minutes before pumping more fluid in. When the stream stopped and turned into a drip I put the fill plug back on with some thread sealant. Like I said above I don't like how Ford says 33 ft/lbs on the fill plug - that's not happening at least on mine. All cleaned up and done. I'll check the level again in 100 miles or so. The fill plug is inserted further than it was from the factory at 28ft/lbs. Be careful with aluminum. And that's pretty much it. It should take about an hour if you have access to a lift. As with everyone else, I have no idea why Ford couldn't put a drain plug other than to purposely let PTU's eat themselves after the warranty period.

Take your pick which to wear out first. Brake pads or transmission. I'll take the pads.

I called BBK and they said they don't have anything to work on a 2019> Edge ST.

They should include a AAA membership for towing 😁

Thanks I had it backwards!

So which BBK throttle body works on 2019> Edge ST?

Edited because I'm even more confused now. Using the NGK part finder is looks like OEM plugs were heat range 7? and the now NGK recommended plugs are heat range 6 wheras Ford is recommending a hotter plug heat range 8 possibly on SP-578? Going to that hot of a plug doesn't sound good, I can see why people would see less timing and be able to run less boost. @1004ron you originally installed the LTR7BHX which are heat range 7 now your going to a COLDER plug LTR6BHX heat range 6. Ford SP-542 is heat range 7 SP-578 is heat range ?8? Iridium NGK ILTR7N8 is heat range 7 (original OEM equivalent) NGK ILTR6S8 is heat range 6 Ruthenium NGK LTR7BHX is heat range 7 NGK LTR6BHX is heat range 6

Bump that price still good?

I wonder how many more years will go by before people stop using the tranny is new excuse.

Nice to see a Dynojet too! You cant fudge a Dynojet like you can a Mustang.

Someone get one and do a before/after on a Dynojet otherwise its all hearsay.

There is simply no aftermarket support for these vehicles. You can't even find an intake kit for it. AFE was going to make a cold air intake but they rather make diff covers for Raptors. About the only thing to do is a tune.

Is it just the 1 TSB to rule them all as far as the shifting or is there multiple they need to apply? Mine does the thump from Park to Drive or Neutral to Drive but also basically sucks at all shifting. If I tell them to apply the 19-2313 is that all I need?

The new flash is released?

The Racechip looks like it just raises the boost and thats it.

My new Edge ST vibrates at idle, coming from dash area, usually only when cold. Could it be related to any of this?

Have them do a leak down test. Does your coolant level go up a lot after you've been boosting hard? White smoke no bueno.

I didnt want my Edge to sound like garbage rattle box like every other vehicle I've seen with stop/start feature after some mileage on it, so disabled it with Forscan. The Edge ST to me is OK but could be a lot better. Transverse layout makes it difficult to work on. Plastic oil pan. If you get too Hoonigan and find a curb with your oil pan its destroyed. Plastic everything, intercooler pipes, intake manifold, this thing should cost $38 as its mostly made of plastic Small two piston brakes up front, single pistons in rear. For the price, weight, performance it should have two piston rear, 4 piston in front. No paddle shifting other than on steering wheel Needs another 50 ft/lb torque everywhere Needs some updates to the tranny shifting points Other than that its very quiet and luxurious so I can see why a normal Edge owner wouldn't care about anything I listed above

Didn’t it take a bunch of posts on Facebook to get the v3 tune in the works for last years edge? Might help if we all hassle them ?

My owners manual says SP-542, but when I went to the dealer they tell me these plugs are superseded by the SP-578 plug & they dont have any information as far as heat range or material. A couple of googles also really didnt produce any factual data about this new plug. Does anyone know what the difference is and which one is optimal? Other than "tuners recommend 542" once all those plugs are gone we will be stuck with the 578's good or bad.

Installed FORScan. disabled stupid auto stop start filled up on 100/92 mix for 93 octane Looked at evo thought I was fast

Someone buy this man a beer. Changing the spark plugs doesnt look so bad now

Lol you know what I mean One shouldn’t have to press the buttons each ignition cycle.