Gadgetjq

+1. Just follow the OP instructions. Literally anyone with a screwdriver and very basic set of sockets can do this.

Ah, ok, I thought you meant a 'front camera' similar to the one installed in the grille. That's what I'm hoping to do. Thanks very much for the reply though.

Thanks very much for the reply. I guess that's iOS only, I don't see it in the Play Store. Edit to add: there's no app named "Engine Scanner" in Apple's App Store either. Are you sure that's the name? What OS are you using? Thanks!

If you've considered installing a modulator on your center brake light I've posted a short video showing the basics. This is a $6 ultra simple mod that 'might' give a following driver just a tiny extra hint you're slowing/stopping. Here's a link:

How about a link to the Ford offering? I've hoped to add a front camera (already have the OEM rear) but the aftermarket boxes that plug into the Sync3 system tend to be a little pricey, anywhere from roughly $170 to over $500 plus camera(s).

I recall a forum (don't remember which one) post last year where someone was having issues and started returning changes he'd made with FORScan back to stock. The problem vanished when he restored the mirror tilt setting. Obviously it doesn't happen often or forums would be full of posts about it. When it comes to FORScan I almost always mention the possibility one change could affect something else and remind users to log their changes and back everything up....always. As for another step, not really. The only time I (and suspect most) use the mirrors tilted down is when I'm backing up. If you're in Drive you're going to go through neutral to get to reverse anyway. How much brain power does it take to press a button on the way to reverse. If you're already in park getting ready to reverse, just hit the #3 button. The upside with this method; 'both' of your mirrors can dip simultaneously, you don't have to press the mirror button (speaking of extra steps) when shifting to Reverse to pick a mirror. The great thing is, everyone has the option to do the 'dip' either way or not do it all and just motor down a mirror if needed. There's no right way or wrong way.

The mirror tilt FORScan mod is, IMHO, more bother than it's worth. You still end up pressing the mirror switch to determine the 'one' mirror you want to tilt down and some have reported side effects with other systems. There's a better way unless you're using all three mirror/seat memory settings. When you're in the Edge and have your seat/mirrors set for normal driving tilt both mirrors down. Aim them whatever way you desire then press and hold the third memory button on the door. Presto. You now have the ability to tilt 'both' mirrors down with the simple press of a button. If you've turned on fob memory you can just leave the mirrors down after parking. The Edge will see your fob the next time you hit the 'start' button and move the mirrors back up to your preferred setting.

I'm in Surprise. What do you need done?

That's probably the fake engine noise mentioned earlier. It can be turned off using FORScan (doesn't need a Ford tech). Note the DSP change may not be necessary for an Edge.

What app are you using that shows gear selection on the phone? I use Torque Pro regularly and it can show a display for practically everything in the Edge but (as far as I'm aware) not the current gear.

Give the latching mechanism a thorough visual check. Has something gotten caught or pushed down into the body side latch or the tailgate side? You could pull the plastic trim piece from the body side (it just snaps out, no bolts/screws) to be certain nothing's down there and to see if the tailgate will latch without the trim in place.

It's in the left side display. When that screen is in 'Display' mode toggle up/down using the arrows on the left side of the steering wheel. One of the screens will show tachometer, fuel gauge and temperature. Here's a photo

Quite awhile I'd think. I've owned my '16 Edge since early May 2019. Before purchase I spent a lot of time reading and digging back through months and even years of Edge forums and groups. Forum to forum, group to group important information has spread over time. That information suggests changing fluids on a frequent basis, particularly coolant in the 3.5/3.7L engines and lubricant in the PTU leads to some very long lived Edges. Failure to do so can (but doesn't always) lead to some expensive failures.

If you're addressing the OP, Sirrommotorsports hasn't posted in this forum since March 2016. It looks like putting together a new bulb chart is on you! Or folks could just check their owner's manuals.

It's certainly not mandatory and we all know it puts a big dent in the ole wallet but Ford enjoys touting many of its fluids as 'lifetime.' They are not. As you cruise around the Edge forums you'll start seeing a trend. The owners who've done fluid changes more frequently than the schedule suggests are the ones showing large trouble free mileage numbers while those who've ignored coolant, transmission and other (especially power transfer unit lube in AWD vehicles) suffer more often from quirky shifts, failed water pumps and other issues. The suggestion that anyone who purchases a pre-owned vehicle change every fluid is pretty well established. Unless you have all the documentation you just don't know how the previous owner took care of the vehicle. Finally, changing fluids isn't difficult, especially after you've done it a time or two. A system develops like this two-fer..transaxle and radiator draining under my '16 Edge:

That 'hard start/stall' symptom is often caused by a bad purge valve. Good news, it's not an expensive part and is easy to replace. Here's a MacT YouTube video showing the replacement: The cause of the failure is, sometimes, just age but it's also caused by overfilling the gas tank (clicking the nozzle after it first shuts off).

Here's a link to a replacement USB hub that will let you use Apple Carplay in your '16 Edge: https://amzn.to/30UrFro If you have an Android phone the original USB port works fine with Android Auto.This link to a YouTube video shows you how to replace the hub: And finally, replacing your transmission fluid is as easy as changing engine oil. You'll remove the driver's side under panel (4 screws and a plastic clip), slide a catch pan under the car and remove the drain plug. When the ATF fluid is drained, replace the plug and the panel. Done! Here's the rub, you have to do that three times to get all of the old fluid out since about half is trapped in the torque converter when you do the drain procedure.

Check your owner's manual. Page 325 When you drain the transaxle fluid you'll only get about half of the total (5 to 5.5 quarts). The rest is trapped in the torque converter. That's the reason three drain/fill cycles are highly recommended. Here's a link to download your manual if yours is missing.: https://carmanuals2.com/d/29536

Did you ever update from build 18093 to 19025? If not that might be what the notification is about.

The light setup looks very nice! The turn signal/daytime running lights that change color are known as 'switchbacks'. They're designed to turn on a white LED set in the daytime and when turn signals aren't operating then go amber at night or when flashing as a turn signal. It sounds like yours are operating properly. Here's a link to replacement headlights that are similar to or perhaps the same that he's using: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000080943337.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.19676b3aoGHrRt&algo_pvid=5b5802bc-4544-4177-bfea-f02f27080ac5&algo_expid=5b5802bc-4544-4177-bfea-f02f27080ac5-7&btsid=6c10d770-0c33-4d33-b1a1-bd276f6201f2&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_53

A dying battery frequently causes those exact issues. You should roll by an auto supply store (or your dealership) to have the battery load tested. If it's weak, replace it before there are more serious problems (like you're stuck by the side of the road.)

Check your owner's manual. Your heated/cooled seats can be set to come on when you use the remote start based on the temperature in the car. The heat or AC system will either activate based on that same criteria or based on your last settings as determined by the check boxes in the left side display. There may be other settings in that display you might want to experiment with to see if the start up behavior is more to your liking. If the system still seems glitchy roll by your dealership and speak with the person who normally sits in a vehicle to walk new owners through all the systems. If there's still an issue, see if you can have someone cold start another Titanium edge on the lot to see if it behaves the same way. If not you might have a warranty issue to speak with the service manager about.

There are very few posts about electronic gremlins, especially with the Gen2 Edge. The most frequently mentioned issue is probably connecting phones to the Sync system and getting Carplay or Android Auto to work consistently. Check to be sure your system has been updated to the latest version available from Ford (3). If not, register the Edge with Ford's website then click 'Owner' in the top navigation bar then click 'Sync Updates.' You'll get a page letting you know if there's an update available. If there is, follow the instructions on the download page to do the installation. You might also have a build update available. As you cruise through this and other Edge groups/forums you'll see there are other (later) builds available too. Those require side loading which can get messy and is a whole different thread. BTW, congrats on the new Edge! And a suggestion, change all of the fluids, especially transmission fluid and Power Transfer Unit (PTU) and Rear Differential Unit (RDU) lubricants. Your dealer will tell you the last two are lubed for life.....they aren't.

Make an appointment, even if it's a few days into the future. That should at least get the car looked at (and maybe worked on) the day you take it in. Meanwhile, try another iPhone, preferably one that has an earlier operating system than yours, to see if it acts the same way. I've never kept an actual count but it 'seems' like iOS users have many more issues with connectivity than Android users.

Or maybe not? The 2015 with Halogen headlights uses the low beam as a DRL. As mentioned earlier they're only on when the car is in Drive and it's daytime. At night those same Halogen bulbs are fully powered up to become headlights. To 'move' your DRL you need to use FORScan. I successfully moved mine ('16) to the high beam socket which is now equipped with an LED designed to be a DRL or fog light bulb. Here's the code: Set DRL To Specific Front Lights (BdyCM) 726-45-01 xxxx Xxxx xxxx Set value at XX to 7F This setting enables all choices in the list for DRL options BdyCM 726-50-01 (2014+ MY) XXxx 01 (Disabled - Default (USA) / No DRL) 02 (Enabled - DRL Low Beams) 04 (Enabled - DRL Front Fog Lamps) 08 (Enabled - DRL Front Turn Lamps) 10 (Enabled - DRL Dedicated) - Enables BCM DRL Outputs - C2280C Pins 36 (Right) and 40 (Left) 20 (Enabled - DRL High Beams) 40 (Enabled - DRL Low Beams and Dedicated) If you do this, you'll also want to set that DRL to turn off when you activate a turn signal on one side or the other. If you don't, the DRL can wash out the turn signal so oncoming drivers have difficulty seeing it. Here's the code to do that: To turn off DRL on the side a turn signal is flashing BdyCM (as built) 726-26-02 xxxX xxxx xxxx Change X to 1=enable 0=disable Have fun!