Gadgetjq

Your default should be D8B8. The other numbers shown are to 'remove' items from the right screen (like Sirius if you don't have a subscription) I don't remember what I had from the factory but climate was missing on my '16. I changed the code to D8B8 and voila! That said, I never use it because I already have climate on the main screen and physical buttons so...

Added a battery charger quick connect. It eliminates alligator clips, sparks and other nuisances associated with bringing your Edge battery up to a full charge. Full details here:

Note: These instructions with full size photos are posted on my Edge 'how to' site: https://www.gadgetjq.net/edge/charge/quick_connect.html Battery Charger Quick Connect (Almost) Never Be Surprised By A Drained Battery Again The life of a car battery is a hard one these days. It's under constant drain with systems always looking for a fob to unlock the doors, monitoring an alarm and even waiting for a remote start command. That's just part of the battle! The battery is obviously under the hood, practically on top of a hot engine and exhaust system. In winter it's sometimes dealing with sub zero temperatures while summer heat tries its best to siphon off energy. There is a huge assortment of battery chargers available. The problem is hooking those things up requires attaching the charger leads to the battery positive connector and a ground someplace. What if you mix those connections up? At best the (modern) charger will flash a light or emit a beep to notify you of the error. At worst friends and family will forever after be referring to you as 'Sparky.' This cheap and easy mod ends the guess work, does away with alligator clips and (depending on your installation) might even eliminate opening the hood. Here's how: What You'll Need If you hate wiring or just want to do this the easiest way possible, get one of these from Amazon. The pigtail is already made up and simply attaches directly to your battery posts, no muss no fuss. Note you'll need the matching plug on your charger or you'll end up snipping it off and doing the mod below. The Alternative 1 - Each male and female quick connector. Commonly called 'pigtails' (shown at the top of this page and photo (left)) these are easy to find on eBay, Amazon and other sources. At 10 for $10 it's easy to see this project isn't going to break the bank. You'll have enough to do every car in the family fleet! Several feet of 18 gauge wire. Exactly how much will be determined by where you want to install your quick connect and the location of your battery. This 50 foot spool from Amazon will be plenty for this project and probably many others. It's good quality wire with one red and one black insulator making connections easy. 2 - Crimp connectors for connecting the wire to your battery and a vehicle ground. If you use a spade type (as opposed to the ring type shown) you won't have to remove the battery connector or the ground nut. Just loosen them, slip your connector over the bolt or stud and tighten the nut back down. Assorted simple items for splicing on an additional length of wire including butt splices or solder and shrink tubing (recommended) or electrical tape. A length of 1/4 or 3/8" plastic wire loom available at Harbor Freight, Amazon and other outlets. This isn't required but produces a factory appearance for your wiring. If you've done other projects under the hood you might have already used some of this product and can run your new wires through that. 1 - Battery Charger of your choice. As mentioned earlier these come in all shapes and sizes and prices. You pretty much get what you pay with multiple modes and ability to charge different types of battery. You definitely want to make sure you get a taper charger that will start at whatever amperage it's rated for (usually 6 or 8 for home units) then taper down to 1-amp or less when your battery is fully charged. That's to prevent overcharging and ruining your battery. Another charger type is referred to as a 'maintainer.' Again there are many available, probably the most famous is the Battery Tender brand. Shop carefully because different maintainers might be designed for different battery types (flooded/gel). These are low amperage and not really designed to 'charge' a battery though they will given enough time. Optional but strongly suggested an inline fuse. Place this as close as possible to the positive battery terminal with a fuse size appropriate for the amperage of your charger's output. I.E. don't use a 5 amp fuse if your charger puts out 8 amps. I know, I know, but somebody's going to do it and wonder why their battery didn't charge. How To Do It The Short Version: This is really all you're doing. Below you'll find a very detailed step-by-step but you can skip it all if you can connect a couple of crimp connectors to a plug and (optionally) add a fuse. The Detailed Version (for running the plug all the way to the front of the Edge) 1. Place the female quick connector where you ultimately want to install it. Some will choose a location under the hood (mine pictured at right is between the radiator and headlight on the driver's side) while others might want to leave it accessible someplace in the grille so the hood doesn't even have to be opened. With the connector in place, measure along your wiring path to the positive connector (longest run) of the battery. Be generous with your measurement. It's a lot better to have a few inches too many than to come up short and have to do another splice. Note: For this picture I removed the wire loom. When finished the red wire is, literally, invisible. 2. With the measurement done and the appropriate amount of wire pulled from a spool splice your 18 gauge wire to the pigtail keeping track of positive (red) and negative (black). You can use butt (crimp) splices or solder and shrink tube the connection. As long as it's solid you'll be good to go. 3. Make your wire run along the most efficient path toward the battery. If you'll be using wire loom you don't have to get fancy yet but you 'should' make sure the wire is running over or under any obstacles. Notice in the photo (right) the Edge has a handy dandy ground point already located on the firewall. Measure and cut your 'black' wire at that junction and add your crimp connector. Do Not cut the red wire. Loosen the nut, slide your connector over the stud and tighten the nut. You're almost home. 4. Run your red wire over to the positive battery connector and cut to the appropriate length. Add your crimp connector, carefully loosen the 10mm terminal nut, slip your connector on and carefully tighten the nut again. I empathize carefully because we have not disconnected the negative battery cable. If your wrench comes in contact with any metal part of the car you're going to get a huge blinding spark that will leave a mark on you or your car. If this possibility bothers you, go ahead and disconnect the negative battery cable before starting the wiring process. Note: For this photo I pulled the loom back so you can see the (blue) connectors at the battery and ground lug. The 10 amp fuse is a little lower and out of the shot. 5. With your wiring run and connected it's time to make everything pretty so start tucking your wiring into the loom if you've chosen to use it. This extra ten minutes of your time will really finish off the project. 6. You're finished with the car portion of the project. Whether you need to take the next leap depends on your charger. Some are already fitted with a quick connector. If that's the case with yours and it's the same type/size you've installed (except it's the male side of the plug) you're finished. If not, go to the next step. 7. It looks like we have a little more work to do. You'll need to cut the alligator clips or 'other' style quick connector off and replace it with the 'male' connector you purchased for this project. Before cutting take careful note of which side of the wire is positive (red alligator clip) and negative (black clip) and mark them if the polarity isn't already obvious. Now cut the original connectors off a few inches behind the point the molded cable comes back together. Doing it this way means you just have one part to store for the future instead of two. 8. Splice the male quick connector onto the charger cable again noting polarity. 9. You're Done! Plug the charger (male) side of your quick connect into the car (female) plug then connect your charger to shore power. If all of your connections were done correctly there won't be any red flashing lights or sirens, no black helicopters hovering overhead. You'll have appropriate power and charging lights on your charger. If you still have some daylight go add a quick connector to another car in your fleet...then invite the kids over to do theirs! Better yet, hand them one male and one female connector along with a couple of crimp connectors and let them do their own.

I've seen comments on assorted Edge forums/groups complaining of rear pad wear. It's really unusual as most vehicles wear out their front pads first. That said, if your rears are gone then obviously, replace them. Get a good ceramic pad that'll last longer and create less brake dust at the same time. There 'is' a maintenance mode. It's designed to prevent the electric parking brake from trying to bite your fingers off if it's accidentally switched on. I've attached the .pdf file for that below. You can download the entire factory service manual (it's for 2015 but still works for your '16) from MacT Garage. Here's the link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/14kY1rxxaB1iHKN0fDjNOo3FtgTF_5dF- Hopefully you'll find your other questions (turning the brake piston) in there. And last, (but hopefully not least) take a look at my Edge helpful hints and tips page. If nothing else you'll learn a lot about your car: https://www.gadgetjq.net/edge Cheers! Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) Service Mode Activation and Deactivation.pdf

That's a safety feature I doubt you'd be able to change. The double press is there to prevent a single press (while in your pants pocket for example) from opening the liftgate. It's the same with remote start (though, curiously, not for global window up/down). My previous vehicle (Toyota Avalon) allowed the double press to be changed to a single long press for the trunk but you had to hold the fob button for something like five seconds so was actually counter productive. You can double tap the button in two seconds.

I've never seen anything like that in FORScan. You 'do' have the option to switch the DRL from socket to socket in front but not fine tuning down to the diode level. The good news is, Switchbacks are fairly inexpensive (around $20 gets you a set of bulbs and a harness). If you have the tools you could take apart the sockets to access circuitry and transplant it to your other housing.

Here's the list of changes you'll make for front window open/close with the remote. Note, for the Edge it isn't truly a global command since it doesn't include back windows or moon roof. Also note, some of the modules now have sub menus (below (As-Built) that offer plain English toggles which are simpler than changing codes. Look for them in the latest version of FORScan. 1. Windows Remote Open/Close After doing these FORScan changes you can press and hold unlock on your key fob for windows to roll down. Press and hold lock button on the fob to roll windows up. Chances are pretty good you can currently roll your windows 'up' with your fob but not down. Give it a try. This is one of those things that may have changed from model to model and year to year. BdyCM (As-Built): 726-17-01 0101 0101 014A 726-17-02 0101 0101 014B 726-30-01 0101 0000 0060 DDM: 740-05-01 Dxxx xx PDM: 741-05-01 Dxxx xx

The very first change (FORScan page): 1. Windows Remote Open/Close After doing these FORScan changes you can press and hold unlock on your key fob for windows to roll down. Press and hold lock button on the fob to roll windows up. Chances are pretty good you can currently roll your windows 'up' with your fob but not down. Give it a try. This is one of those things that may have changed from model to model and year to year. BdyCM (As-Built): 726-17-01 0101 0101 014A 726-17-02 0101 0101 014B 726-30-01 0101 0000 0060 DDM: 740-05-01 Dxxx xx PDM: 741-05-01 Dxxx xx

If you tap into your high beam circuit you'll need a relay. If you connect directly to a switch and to a circuit in the fuse box probably not (but it's always a good idea). Here's why. The high beam circuit is already fused for the expected load and for the size of wire used in the circuit. An example of the lights you're describing come up online as 50 watts (which seems like a lot for 9 leds but it's the number they cite so I'm running with it). That's almost 4 amps each, 8 amps for the pair which is adding quite a bit to an existing circuit and certainly erasing any head room for the fuse. If you use a relay though, it will only use a couple of amps and you 'can' connect it to your high beam wiring. You'd just connect the positive side of the lights to the relay and the relay to the under hood fuse box. If yours is like my Gen2 there are unused fuse slots that should have no problem with a 10 amp (the lights 8 amp plus a cushion) for your leds. If you choose to add your own switch so your strips can be used independently of the high beam your circuit would be similar except you'd connect the relay to one fuse under hood (switched on with the engine so you can't inadvertently leave your lights on) fuse and the lights to another (switched or unswitched wouldn't matter since the relay is acting as your safety switch. You'd add your manual (cabin) switch in the line between the relay and the fuse. There are many circuit diagrams online showing how a relay is connected but it's very simple. The relay is just an automatic (as opposed to manual) switch that's activated when power is applied. A latch closes allowing the higher amperage (your lights) to pass through. Cheers!

That's a whole different thread. I'd send you to the Brakes & Suspension section of this forum for answers: https://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/48-brakes-chassis-suspension/

JB, It's always dicey when the brakes "scare the rotors." I know it was a typo but just couldn't let it go. ? Ford's warranty for brake pads is 12 months or 18,000 miles so you're well outside of that coverage. Rather than take your Edge to the dealership, I'd suggest a trusted independent mechanic (look for online ratings for shops near you) or maybe you haveA a friend who's a 'car guy' who'd help you pull the wheel and check your brakes for the cost of a beer or two. At your mileage it's unlikely you've managed to wear out the brake pads.

There will never be a recall (reserved for life threatening safety issues) for a leaking roof but there 'might' be a TSB for it. Have you checked? You didn't provide the year/model of your Edge so nobody else can check for you. Visit the NHTSA site (below) click on 'Vehicle" then enter your year/make/model. You'll see a list of recalls, complaints and Manufacturer Communications. Click on that last item to bring up a list of systems. You'll probably want to look through the items under 'Structure.' https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls Edit to add: Be sure to check gaskets for any roof mounted antennas. If yours is a Gen1 Edge there's a chance that gasket has broken down and is allowing water into the cabin area. Water can travel quite a bit before finding an exit (dome light) so if you're sure it isn't a gasket use a hose to look for the leak. Start low on the car and work your way up.

Hankook's recall info page doesn't list the 20" tire as part of a recall: https://www.hankooktire.com/us/tire-recalls.html

You'll find a list of FORScan mods I've made to my '16 Ti (including global window open/close) here: https://www.gadgetjq.net/edge/forscan/forscan.html#changes Every one of them works with no ill effects on any other system.

Use the door keypad if you have it. Press the 7-8 and the 9-0 buttons simultaneously. The doors will lock with the fob inside. This may or may not work for a '13 but worth a try....It's also a good way to lock the doors and leave the engine running (run a quick errand or pick up the kids at grandma's and leave the AC or heat running). That trick is actually best done if you've set 'police mode' via FORScan so the transmission can't be pulled out of park without the key inside the Edge. Cheers!

Total shot in the dark spitball here...have you checked tire pressures?

Use the correct WD40 though. The company offers a PTFE spray lube that does work well. (PTFE is the lubricant recommended by Ford for this application) Regular (blue can) WD40 just contains a small amount of silicone. Great for lubricating a door hinge but not for something as heavy as a glass roof.

That's one heck of a list! I bow to you sir!

Oops, never mind. I was concerned about a push bumper affecting airbag deployment (and posted a caution) but then checked the Setina web page. They say it's not an issue so....good to go!

That 'is' indeed an indication your battery might be ready to fail or it could be as simple as a corroded cable connection. I'd suggest you head to an auto supply store for a free load test, especially if your battery is four years old or older. While some owners manage to get a little more out of them, three to four years seems pretty typical these days.

Hi UF, The area you have marked "circle lights" won't work for a North American Edge but would for the European version. The difference is the bumper 'behind' the bumper cover. For the North American version it's wider and will interfere with anything you'd want to install in that space. Those lower areas though it's a big maybe. You'd probably have to take the front cover off and mount lights to a custom made bracket. Otherwise you'd just be attaching the light to plastic and it wouldn't last long. Here's an 'example' (not a recommendation) for a design you might consider for that space: https://amzn.to/3cpPknV . Shop around, there are vast differences in quality available. Essentially, you'll get what you pay for.

Hey CF, If you're still under warranty I'd suggest you roll by your Ford dealer just to let them know about your issue and make a record of it. I haven't seen one but maybe there's a TSB for the issue that requires an update. If you've updated your maps recently be sure to mention it and if you've made changes to your APIM (with FORScan) you might want to go back to factory settings then make your changes again one-by-one to see if a change caused the problem.

Here ya go. Edge Roof Opening Panel Track Cleaning.pdf I think the instructions are a little over the top when it comes to using a garden hose in the track. ;) For bottle brushes, this set from Harbor Freight is hard to beat: https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-tube-pipe-nylon-brush-set-90631.html

I did the annual maintenance on the BAMR today and tried a couple of new things. If having your roof close smoothly in about 6 seconds appeals to you, read on. After reading the Ford issued moonroof maintenace steps ( Edge Roof Opening Panel Track Cleaning.pdf ) I used a PTFE spray lube from WD40 instead of last years gooey (but very slippery) Dielectric grease. https://amzn.to/3c6qQQq I chose to 'skip' inserting a garden hose in the track, that's just asking for trouble. For my next trick, instead of shotgun cleaning patches I used something from the bride's bag o' tricks called 'rounds.' https://amzn.to/2Vq1PZF They're thick cotton pads used for Lord knows what but hey, they work great wiping out the old grunge from tracks. You should use something to push the pad along the track (like the wire handle of a bottle brush or small dowel) because it's a dangerous place in there for bare fingers. Be sure to use the smooth (can't see cotton fibers) side for minimal shedding. Step 1 With the roof closed, push a soap and water soaked pad down into the slot between the rubber dust shields behind the BAMR. Push the pad along with a stiff wire (handle from a bottle brush works great) then retrieve the pad after a couple of passes. Keep doing that (damp then dry pads) until the pad comes out clean. Spray with the WD40 PTFE lube along the length of the 'slot.' Wait a few minutes for the lube to dry and open your moon roof. Step 2 Now it's time to clean the visible tracks. My first pass was, again, with a pad soaked in a soap and water solution. It had a 'lot' of old Dielectric grease to remove. A second pad dampened with clear water helped get a little more grunge out and a third and fourth dry pads shined everything up. Hint: Have a pick or something similar to retrieve the pad if you lose it while pushing back into a dark space under the front edge of the glass. Use a rag or towel to protect the inside of your car and spray the tracks with the PTFE. Give it a few minutes to dry. Start your engine and push the button to close the roof. It's going to move so quickly you'll want to try it again. My roof is now closing from full open in 6.1 seconds so it's all good.

Oops, sorry been a long day here's the link but the video TXAggie sent you is probably better. Once that center piece is removed you should be able to peer down into the area under the console box area.