Gadgetjq

That reader 'should' be working for you. FORScan should recognize the device then polling you to be sure it's recognized your vehicle. After that it'll start loading the MS modules then asking you to flip the switch to load the rest. Once loaded you should be able to click on the gear icon and see 'all' of the modules. If the switch is in the wrong position to load the one you want, FORScan should ask you to flip the switch again. If any of that isn't happening then something's wrong with the reader. Cheers!

What brand/model OBDII module are you using? The inexpensive bluetooth variety only show a few of the modules. To see everything you need an OBDLink MX or MX+ or this wired reader: https://amzn.to/2ZglBH9 If I recall correctly, moving cooling/heating controls to the center screen are all APIM codes. To enable your remote windows up you need to change three things (hard to find in the spreadsheet). They are: BdyCM (As-Built): 726-17-01 0101 0101 014A 726-17-02 0101 0101 014B 726-30-01 0101 0000 0060 DDM: 740-05-01 Dxxx xx PDM: 741-05-01 Dxxx xx Again, if you can't see the DDM or PDM modules you'll need a better code reader to get everything done. Cheers!

Yes, both. Beware, once you start modifying settings you'll keep finding other things to 'fix.' Like, turning off the horn honking when you walk away from the Edge with the engine running (and fob in your pocket) turn off the horn honk when you press the lock button a second time (you'll want to do that once you enable the global window 'up' feature....and so it goes. You can actually put all of your climate control hard buttons on the screen but it gets a little crowded. If you decide you want to swap your current turn signal bulbs for LED you can turn off hyperflash instead of using resistors and so much more. In case I neglected to mention it earlier, before you make 'any' changes, Use FORScan to make a backup of your current system. You can also download your entire 'as built' setup from Ford's service site: https://www.motorcraftservice.com/asbuilt If something goes wrong you'll have a way to restore every module to factory fresh. Cheers!

Yes, 08. There's no code for the moon roof. I'm guessing it makes that safety stop just to be sure someone hasn't decided to raise their hand (or head) through the roof, unaware it's closing. Before you scoff, think of all the bone headed things you've seen people do.

Hi Tim, The top post was from 2017 but if you're still looking for the connection maybe this will help. Checking the website it appears what you have is a fancy switchback array (amber turn signals otherwise white drl). The power wire for the drl function can go to any switched fuse in your under hood fuse box. I don't have a diagram for your car but in my Gen2 Edge there are several fuses labeled "not used" or "spare." Those sockets are generally switched (you'll want to double check with a multimeter or test light). To use those slots I'd suggest using an add-a-fuse. Connect the add-a-fuse lead to your new DRL and plug it in. Done! If you don't have anything labeled as above, you can also use any switched fuse in the box, again using an add-a-fuse. Cheers!

You'll have to pull that panel off. It isn't difficult. I've uploaded the loadspace panel removal procedure from the factory service manual below. Loadspace Trim Panel.pdf

P.E. Do you have a part number for an AEM filter that fits the Gen2 3.5L Edge? Their website doesn't show any Edge application at all. Cheers!

Hi Tronjo, I feel your pain trying to reach the fuse box but here's a tip. Some Edge's have a storage drawer others a cover on the dash to the left of the steering column. Whichever you have if you'll remove it getting eyes on the fuse panel will be much easier. I found using that opening as a view port then reaching up under the dash to remove/replace fuses was a whole lot easier than working from the floor of the car To your question. For the exact same application I used fuses 35 (labeled as a spare and switched) and 26 (front passenger lock indicator always hot). An Add-a-Fuse in each slot made the connection easy. Another tip. Attach a length of wire to the add-a-fuse before plugging into the fusebox. Make the pigtail long enough to reach under the dash and into the cabin making it easier to connect your camera. Once connected and tested you'll be able to coil up the extra wire and tuck it behind the kick panel.

Hi Gunnar, I've done exactly what you're trying to do. My DRL is what 'used' to be the high beam (using an LED designed as a fog) and my low beam is now an HID. Here's the guide you'll need to make the (2) changes in FORScan. You'll be changing 02 to 20: Set DRL To Specific Front Lights (BdyCM) 726-45-01 xxxx Xxxx xxxx Set value at XX to 7F This setting enables all choices in the list for DRL options BdyCM 726-50-01 (2014+ MY) XXxx 01 (Disabled - Default (USA) / No DRL) 02 (Enabled - DRL Low Beams) 04 (Enabled - DRL Front Fog Lamps) 08 (Enabled - DRL Front Turn Lamps) 10 (Enabled - DRL Dedicated) - Enables BCM DRL Outputs - C2280C Pins 36 (Right) and 40 (Left) 20 (Enabled - DRL High Beams) 40 (Enabled - DRL Low Beams and Dedicated) Edit to add: I just noticed you're a new member of the forum and this was your first post so you might not be familiar with FORScan. You'll definitely want to spend time learning about that (search this forum) or visit http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573 to learn about it.

I can't tell you exactly what that is but plastic covers are often used to protect electrical components. The curious thing is that appears to be really clean engine oil or maybe it's from your ptu when you changed that oil? Whatever, I'd clean that surface then check back in a week and see if oil has returned. BTW your parking brake is electric so, no cable. Cheers!

Hey Mark, You might not get a reply. Mikula's group label says "banned" and it doesn't appear he's posted or replied to anything since May of last year.

With the 3.5 engine frequent coolant changes are all about water pump preservation. If the pump goes so (frequently) goes the engine. ?

Everything you need to know is on this forum in the Accessories and Modifications section:

You'll probably get all sorts of responses to your question ranging from let it go to change that coolant, like, yesterday! Here's my take FWIW. The issue is with minerals in your tap water. If you typically have fairly 'soft' water in your area then there's not much of an issue. If you have extremely 'hard' water then those minerals are slowly depositing themselves on every surface of your cooling system from water jackets in the engine to passages in the radiator. So, if your water is soft, it's not a huge issue, plan on changing coolant again in 30k miles. If it's hard then (if it were my Edge) I'd be draining and filling again. Meanwhile, work on getting a full refund from the shop that did the work. I've attached a screenshot of the back label from Motorcraft (orange) coolant concentrate. Note it specifically says to use "distilled water". Your shop failed to follow very specific instructions for product use so they owe you a refund or....do the job over with proper products.

Another MacT video to the rescue:

Is this a pre-owned or new Edge that you "just bought"? If new or still under warranty then, obviously, let your dealership figure it out. If it's pre-owned is there any evidence the head unit has been out of the dash for any reason? I'm just wondering whether the antenna wasn't completely plugged in or the cable has broken. Is the outside antenna the original and is it properly installed? Is there something else in the vehicle operating on an FM frequency? Are 'all' FM signals affected or only digital (HD) signals. The more you can narrow the issue down the more likely it'll be that you find your answer.

Hi Cheryl, Since you're under warranty I'd suggest calling your dealership. Tell them you smell raw gasoline and that you're afraid to drive the Edge. Ask them to come pick it up and make the repair. This is a safety issue that you don't want to fool with since you don't know 'where' the fuel is leaking or how much. BTW in the future you'll probably receive quicker results if you post in an appropriate section of the forum. This section is for finding help posting, navigating and otherwise using the forum and probably isn't as well traveled as the Lounge or some other areas. Cheers!

There are options to sticking a deflector to the paint. I'm using this one. It attaches easily to existing screws under the inside edge of the hood and stands away from the paint about 1/4".

This is a huge improvement over the original AA app. If you have an Android phone and Android Auto loaded you'll have to go to the app's 'Settings' and toggle the first item. In your Sync3 system turn on Android Auto. Plug your phone into the center console USB port and you'll be good to go! Note, the 'new' display only shows up on the vehicle screen. All AA compatible apps you have on your phone will show up as icons on the main screen. When an app is running it appears on a bar across the bottom of the screen.

Local auto salvage? If the strip is really just taped/glued to the glass it should be simple to remove from a junked Edge.

Hi Veronica, Yes, the PTU is only a part of the AWD package, not part of the FWD. The one apparent (or at least most discussed) weak point of the Edge involves the 3.5L engine. That's the internal water pump that, like all water pumps, will eventually give up. The problem is when this one goes away it often takes the entire engine with it since coolant is forced into the oil pan. Regular oil and coolant changes seem to all but eliminate the problem....at least until the engine is probably ready for a rebuild anyway. There are some 250,000 mile plus 3.5L engines on another forum with owners reporting no issue at all. Cheers!

It's entirely possible your 18 month old battery has gone bad. Stuff happens. I'd suggest looking at the simplest solution first. Roll by an auto supply store to have the battery load tested before you start searching for other culprits. Cheers!

Hey PW, It's been awhile since you asked your question, maybe you don't even care by now but here's an answer for anyone else who's wondered. Torque values are based on the size of a bolt/stud, the material it's made of, the thread used and probably some other engineering mumbo jumbo. Bottom line for us though the spec is 162 ft lbs which simply means a 162 pound person standing on the end of a 1 foot long breaker bar would get the spec exactly right. If you weigh more than that you'd want to choke up on the bar a bit and if you weigh less get a longer bar. That said, you really should try your wrench on every one of your lugs, especially if the tires have ever been changed or rotated. The two-piece lug nuts used on many vehicles these days tend to distort at high torque values, especially when an impact wrench is used. The result can be a twisted nut that your OEM wrench won't fit any longer. The problem is so common that many drivers now have a flip socket stored with the spare tire. One side is the stock 21mm, the other side of the socket is 21.5mm to accommodate the twisted lug nut. I carry this extendable breaker bar replacing the OEM. Cheers!