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There's this. It looks like you'd put either an 8 or a 9 in that 4th position for the display(s) you're looking for. No guarantees it'll work but give it a shot if you want and let the rest of us know what happens: IPC New 720-09-01 xxx* xxxx xxxx Target Gear Indication (TGI), Gear Range (GR), Gear and Range Display LO (GRD) 0=TGI disabled, GR 6-speed, GRD disabled 8=TGI enabled, GR 6-speed, GRD disabled 1=TGI disabled, GR 6-speed, GRD enabled 9=TGI enabled, GR 6-speed, GRD enabled 2=TGI disabled, GR 10-speed, GRD disabled A=TGI enabled, GR 10-speed, GRD disabled 3=TGI disabled, GR 10-speed, GRD enabled B=TGI enabled, GR 10-speed, GRD enabled 4=TGI disabled, GR not used, GRD disabled C=TGI enabled, GR not used, GRD disabled 5=TGI disabled, GR not used, GRD enabled D=TGI enabled, GR not used, GRD enabled 6=TGI disabled, GR not used, GRD disabled E=TGI enabled, GR not used, GRD disabled 7=TGI disabled, GR not used, GRD enabled F=TGI enabled, GR not used, GRD enabled

Not so much. You're making a case for absolutely no factory code or at least one that's overwritten when an owner enters their new digits. That's so, as you suggest 'anyone from the dealership or previous owner(s) or anyone with access to both keys or a look under the dash' can't swipe a master code. By your reckoning a new owner's code should overwrite the factory numbers. Dealer equipment wouldn't be able to retrieve it. Of course this could have a serious impact on subsequent owners too. Without a master code they'd have to know the digits used by the original owner.....the one who lost the second key fob and all the original manuals.

I suspect that's by design to protect us from ourselves. At least with a locked in code those who forget their 'personal' pin can reset and start over. If our personal pin replaced the OEM code and we forgot it (because humans do stupid things) we'd be hosed.

Because I could and...why not? Actually it's more practical than that. I replaced the halogen headlight bulbs with HIDs and those don't function well as running lights. Beyond that, it looks great and increases daytime visibility by a bunch which is the whole purpose of DRLs right?. If the headlights (HIDs) come on then the DRL function turns off and I still have that bulb as a high beam. Best of all worlds.

I realize you've just invested in LEDs so this is probably off the table for now but.....next time take a look at switchbacks. They're dual color LED bulbs that produce a bright white DRL most of the time but blink amber when you use your turn signal. When headlights are turned on the bulb also goes amber. I'm attaching a couple of day and night shots along with a full frontal of my Edge so you can see what I mean. The 'day' shot also shows my LED DRLs moved to the high beam location.

There's a sequence you can use to lock the doors with the engine running that's come in handy here in the desert southwest when temps hit 115 this summer. It could be just as useful during a winter freeze if you only have to make a dash into a quickie mart for a package of Twinkies or Tastykake. To take advantage of that you'd want to turn on police mode with FORScan so your Edge couldn't be stolen. The mode locks the shifter in park as long as the fob isn't in the vehicle.

Installed aftermarket LED puddle lights in the mirrors. The full description with pics is posted here:

I know, this has been posted before but thought I'd add a few pics along with a 'how-to'. This might be the simplest mod you can do to your Edge with the possible exception of swapping out lug nuts. I started with an aftermarket puddle light from iJDMToy ( https://amzn.to/2mmHnvc )primarily because I've used their products before and they've never let me down. If you look around you can probably find something similar for about half the price that may or may not be waterproof and may or may not be error free and might or might not last for years. Like my daddy once said "I'm too poor to buy cheap tools." Removal of the OEM puddle light is simplicity itself. Look under your mirror and you'll see a slot where you can insert a small flat blade screwdriver. Push toward the light and pull down. The light will simply hinge down so you can pull it out along with wiring. Pull the connector off of the OEM light (you might have to use that little screwdriver to pry it off). If your replacement comes with wiring already attached I'd recommend sliding a small piece of shrink tube over the connector (see pic). There's no use taking a chance metal will ever meet metal inside the mirror housing and take out an important fuse. After connecting your new puddle light open a door to be certain it works. Now you can shrink the tubing if you've used it. Put the new light in the mirror the reverse of the way you took the old one out (except you don't need the screwdriver). Repeat on the other side. Done! Below are photos showing a comparison of the OEM (incandescent) light and new LED, a shot of the new light dangling just to show the shrink tubing, a photo of it installed in the mirror housing and the result with no other light on in the garage. Compare that to what you have now. The final photo I shamelessly swiped from the iJDMToy website so those who prefer pics to text instructions can see how it's done. Cheers!

But doesn't everyone already know that? Nav systems have been installed in vehicles for decades now and they've always been out of date. With the exception of Google (and possibly Apple) mapping products even Garmin and other dedicated GPS maps are dated. My (really old) Garmin that gets four free updates each year is missing local roads completed a couple of years ago. The Sync3 Map Update page says the most recent data for the update is the first quarter of 2018. If/when we really need maps and points of interest that are updated in near real time we have the option to use Google Maps or Waze sent to the car's nav screen from our phones.

Unfortunately FORScan doesn't offer either of those capabilities. There 'might' be aftermarket modules that can be plugged into the head unit that would allow the front camera to be turned on. The funky roof closing is purportedly a safety system to keep people from trapping hands/heads or puppy dogs in the roof while it's closing. Let me offer a little "starter kit' to save you some trouble hunting up the spreadsheets showing changes that can be made with FORScan. There's this one on the 2G Fusions site: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yax6zfhZYj2joBczEeruqKh9X5Qhee3C0ngilqwTA7E/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true And this one on the Ford F150 site: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466 They're pretty much the same, just laid out a little differently. Not all the mods listed will work in your Edge. Read the entire tutorial so you know how to operate the program: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8dKaS_Spu4Zw4hV_CrKC4tLoP9G8yejqegF1wxIqxY/edit Let me add my usual caution. Before making ANY mods, back up your existing AsBuilt data. Also back up individual modules with FORScan before saving changes. You should also download your entire AsBuilt file from Ford and save it just in case something goes radically wrong and you have to reset the entire system: https://www.motorcraftservice.com/asbuilt Save all those links to a folder in your browser and/or download them to your computer for future reference. Cheers!

Suggestion: Puddle lights are simple to remove from the mirror. Pull one out and test it with a direct connection to a power source (car battery, power supply, 9v battery). It's possible both of your lights have simply burned out and a direct test is a good way to find out. Replacements are inexpensive with LEDs as low as $10 on eBay. Cheers!

A heads up here for the forum operators. Perhaps it's just me but both the Ford Edge and Sync Forums slow to a crawl every morning and it's been happening for several weeks now. I've found both sites slow and sometimes even stop around 5:15am (Pacific) each morning and often doesn't come back to full speed until an hour later. Other sites/forums load and operate normally so it pretty much has to be the site host at fault. It's not really an issue for me, I just come back later to see if there are any new/interesting posts but for someone trying to find a quick answer it could be a problem. Cheers!

Have you tried turning off the entry/exit assist, put the ST in gear then park and turn assist on again and reset your memory button? That 'might' reset it. If not have your dealer fix it under warranty. It 'should' work every single time.

Try folding the mirrors toward the door to help them drain then angle the mirrors all the way down and in for access and use pressurized air (leaf blower, compressor or canned air) to help evaporate whatever's left.

First, thanks for trying to use the search utility. Maybe the reason your issue didn't come up is because it's never happened before. I've seen mentions of single buttons failing but never all the issues you're experiencing. Let me suggest starting at the battery because lots of weird things happen when they start going bad. Head for an auto supply store where they can load test your existing battery just to be sure it's good. If that checks out disconnect the battery for a half hour or more. That 'might' reset everything. At least those things are easy and free.

The 3.5L engine has an internal water pump to keep the engine assembly as small as possible. When seals fail (especially pre 2011 models) coolant is forced into the crankcase. Hopefully you didn't run the engine very much after this happened and damage is minimal. The simplest fix is a water pump replacement which can either be done through the passenger side wheel well or by dropping the entire engine. Both ways are labor intense. Worst case (if you continued to drive) you'll be replacing the engine. This won't be helpful to you but beginning in 2011 Ford redesigned the water pump with double seals and a weep hole that allows coolant to escape outside the engine should a seal fail. Frequent (every 30,000 mile) coolant changes help avoid the problem.

I like the grille. A TI VCT or ST or Ecoboost emblem on one side would dress it up nicely.

My ESN is a combination of 8 letters and numbers and I can enter all of them. Are you on this site? https://syncnavigation.com/ford/home

Yes sir. It's been posted since Sept 5th: https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/27424-sync3-map-updates-available-on-line/

Ok, something is making the Edge believe that right front bulb is out (which it is) thus the hyper flash. I know you said you'd changed the right bulb twice so that's probably not the cause. It wouldn't hurt to check the bulb again but test it with a power source (9V battery works) or test for resistance with a mutimeter or swap it with the left side bulb. Take a close look at the connectors at the bulb and at the headlight housing. Is something dirty or burned? A spritz with some contact cleaner wouldn't hurt. If none of the above is the cause you're going to be looking for a broken wire which is very unlikely.

Cabin Fuse 27 then 30 amp

It's certainly better to be stuck closed than open. Is the interior panel sliding or is it non operative too? If both have failed then, yep, probably the fuse. You should always check that first anyway as the easiest solution is often the best solution. Cheers!

That's kind of odd. The file(s) should unzip easily to a USB drive. If you're getting an error on your PC try a different unzip utility. Where people normally have issues is with the vehicle reading the flash drive. While Ford's instructions tell you to format the drive ExFat that frequently fails. Format to FAT32 and the drives always work as long as the files are all in the root of the flash drive. Give it a shot!

I just checked TireRack.com and they don't list a 17" wheel for the Edge (they do show 18, 19, 20, 21) so my guess would be no. It's easy enough for you to check though. Measure the clearance from the brake caliper to the inside edge of your 18" wheel. If it's a half inch (13mm) or less then the answer is a hard no. As an alternative, go back to wherever you saw someone claiming they've mounted a 17" wheel and ask them about it. Cheers!

Have your son watch the following video. It'll walk him through all the steps needed to remove and replace the existing radio. It's really just a few panels that pop off the center console then some easy to reach bolts and connectors. He can do it: