Gadgetjq

That's the company line. The thing is people would be posting all sorts of complaints about rampant up selling if shops were recommending a coolant change every 30k miles. You can either insist on a change or just do it yourself if you're so inclined. BTW, the class action suit against Ford mentioned in the OP was dismissed a couple of months ago. In essence the judge said there's no problem with the pump, plaintiffs failed to prove their case. Here's a link to the decision: https://www.docketbird.com/court-documents/Roe-et-al-v-Ford-Motor-Company/OPINION-and-ORDER-Granting-in-Part-20-MOTION-to-Dismiss-Plaintiffs-039-Amended-Class-Action-Complaint-Signed-by-District-Judge-Laurie-J-Michelson-WBar/mied-2:2018-cv-12528-00031

Almost embarrassed to say Air National Guard 1967-1972. All service was stateside repairing giant R4360 engines the college educated officers broke. Even though it was five years, service in the National Guard back then didn't qualify for veterans benefits (it does now). At least I can fly my flag in the front yard and know I served in 'some' capacity.

RJ, For starters, I'm a big fan of the way you make your living. That said, the one hour time frame for the update actually includes logging onto Ford's website, downloading the file, unzipping it to the flash drive then installing it. The 'real' time from the time you start your car and insert the flash drive is under a half hour so just go for a nice ride to lunch/dinner and let the system do its thing. It's my understanding the 'big' change with V3 is the ability to use both CarPlay and Android Auto but it's also supposedly much faster and smoother with improved graphics. Sync1 is so universally hated it's hard to imagine 'not' updating to V3 whether you intend to use CarPlay or not. Cheers!

For 2016 the 20" wheel was standard, 21" optional for the Sport. Just check the sidewall of your tires to see which you have (or the original window sticker). Smaller wheels and a taller sidewall 'will' negatively affect handling just because there's a lot more flex in the sidewall. That same flex is what makes the ride a little softer so.....pick your poison. You 'did' purchase the Sport model so should expect a slightly stiffer ride than, say, the Titanium that was available with an 18" wheel in '16. So, all that said, here's the possible rub with going to a smaller wheel. Your Sport 'probably' has the larger diameter brake disc so it's possible an 18" wheel won't clear the caliper. You might find answers at tirerack.com where you can enter your make/model vehicle then click on 'wheels' to see what's available to you without guesswork. Edit to add, be sure to use one of the online tire size calculators like this one http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp?item=Wheel-Tire if you decide on a smaller wheel. If you change the overall tire diameter it can cause other issues including speedometer and odometer error. Cheers!

Someone will be along with a more technically oriented answer I'm sure but here's my take: Your Edge does not have a 'frame' in the traditional (pickup truck) sense. All the stress of a hitch is being taken by the unibody which is, basically, a welded together box with lots of holes in it to accept body panels. The unibody is mostly simple sheet metal, not nearly as strong as a big beefy frame which is 'part' of the reason for the low tow rating. I'm sure brakes play a part in the calculation along with stresses on the transmission and other components (note the 3500 lb rating is 'only' with the factory tow package with its larger radiator and other special bits). Trailer brakes are addressed in your owner's manual which says "Separate functioning brake systems are required for safe control of towed vehicles and trailers weighing more than 1500 pounds (680 kilograms) when load." (sic) The Edge's GVWR is also part of the calculation since at least 10% of the trailer's weight is on the vehicle. Add that potential 350 lbs or more plus a couple of passengers and you'll be pretty close to maxed out. We also can't forget the tires. They have a maximum load rating too (it's on the sidewall) so too much trailer weight on the hitch could affect that rating as well. And finally there's the bean counters 'abundance of caution' to consider. I'm sure they build in some sort of percentage in an effort to prevent people who can't follow instructions from injuring themselves or others. Bottom line, if you have the factory tow package, read your manual and stick to the recommendations. If not, consider the impact on your cooling system at the very least and follow the manual's recommendation. Cheers!

Since Ford didn't do it for us how about an alternative? (Torque Screenshots Below) It's simple to add data displays to your phone screen. If there isn't room for something put it on the next (scrollable) page. What you need: Android phone, Torque Pro app, OBDII reader, vent or other phone holder.

If you're on Facebook I'd suggest you check out the MacT Ford Edge group. There's been a lot of discussion about the TSS and OSS transmission sensors and how to replace them (use the search). Those sensors are blamed for hard or erratic shifting, particularly for the Gen 1 Edge. Here's a link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MACTFORDEDGE/

Looks like you have the issue sorted but for future reference the "service position" for wiper blades (handy when washing your Edge) is detailed in your owner's manual (and yes, it certainly could have been explained better). Here's a copy/paste: Service Position Set the windshield wipers in the service position to change the wiper blades. The windshield wipers return to the starting position when you switch the ignition on. 1. Switch the ignition off. 2. Move the wiper arms to the service position manually. Note: You cannot move the wiper arms to the service position manually when you switch the ignition on. Note: You can use the service position to provide easier access to the wiper blades for freeing them from snow and ice. Make sure the windshield is free from snow and ice before you switch the windshield wipers on.

Steamroll9 said " Anybody find out how to extend the rear defrost time? " Way to hijack a thread! Yes. when the rear window defrost turns off press the button again. There's a setting in FORScan to change the on/off time for the heated steering wheel but I see nothing for the rear window or mirror heat timing. And now back to our original subject..... If you had the opportunity what would you put in the right info screen? Duplicates of items in the left side? Digital gauges for trans/ptu/oil temps etc? How about some or all of the gauges available in the Torque Pro app offering up battery voltage, elevation, trip info (time/fuel used/average speed/fuel used). How about detailed error code info like you'd get with a code reader plugged into the OBDII port? ??????

The update from V1 to V3 is very easy and worth it, particularly if you decide to use Carplay (yes, you'll have to change the data ports). Just go to the Ford website, register your Edge if you haven't already then click the 'owners' tab near the top of the page. In the menu you'll be presented with click on Sync updates. Another page comes up that will (we hope) tell you an update is available for your car. Follow prompts to download the update to a PC then unzip the files to the root directory of a USB drive. Pop that drive into one of the data ports and go for a drive or just sit in your driveway with the engine running (you don't want the battery to die in mid update). After a few minutes you'll see a message on the screen telling you the system is being updated and eventually an all finished prompt telling you to remove the USB drive. When you restart the Edge you'll see the updated version. I can't really tell you what differences to expect. Like you I purchased a pre-owned Edge but had the update up and running within minutes of taking delivery. BTW, the over the air update is useless, don't even bother trying it. Maps are a whole separate process from a different site and, unlike the Sync update, will cost you. It's just over $100 if you download the new map set to your own flash drive, $160 if you want them to mail you a drive with the maps already loaded. Here's a link to the map update page: https://ford.navigation.com/home/en_US/FordNA/USD Have fun!

Just my .02 (don't have the distortion issue with my '16) for those fearing they'd just get another distorted shield with a replacement. Tell the dealer you want to inspect the new windshield 'before' the old one is removed from your Edge. If the new one is clear you're good to go. If not send it back. Simple! BTW very few (maybe zero) dealers do their own glass replacement. Generally they send it out to a body or glass shop so it would be installed by a pro, not the Ford shop intern.

Yes, that's all that can be added (at least for my '16 Ti) to the right screen. As owners have posted photos of their dashboards on various forums (usually to show fuel mileage or error lights) I've noticed the majority have the compass (nav) up in that right screen. To your second question about headlights, HID is a definite improvement. Spend the money for a good set and add a relay harness like this one https://www.diodedynamics.com/heavy-duty-waterproof-hid-relay-harness.html to be sure they'll power up properly. Cheers!

Give the upholsterer a heads up beforehand to be sure but it shouldn't be an issue. After the work is done make sure the heating/cooling work properly while you're still there. Cheers!

Thanks for the schooling. It seems odd that Ford would install two completely different lighting systems in essentially the same vehicle. Mine's a '16 Titanium but had different bulbs serving different functions, probably because I don't have the driver assist package. Thanks for the feedback.

Turned on a setting in FORScan to turn off my DRLs on one side when turn signals are blinking. If your Edge came from the factory with HID headlights it probably already does this. If not or if you want to move some lighting functions around on the front of your car it's simple to do. The full 'how to' is in the forum Mods section here:

My Edge was equipped with Halogen headlights from the factory and 'they' were programmed to be the DRLs. Just a guess, those of you with HID from the factory have another bulb set as your DRL? I'm using the high beam for three reasons. 1. As I mentioned in the OP I have no use for the high beam. I rarely drive at night and when I do my area offers well lighted roads both city and highway. Drivers here could, literally, turn headlights off in many areas and not even notice it. There are no deer to jump out in front of us. That said, I still have the high beam available, it just isn't optimum. 2. I simply like the look of having both the turn signal and high beam on as a combo DRL. 3. Because I can. ?

Wonderful but my '16 didn't offer that function from the factory (the module was turned off). Now that they know how to do it, anyone with a '15-'19 no matter what their trim level can have what your Edge has. Cool?

If seat and steering wheel adjustments can't fix the problem let me suggest a trip to an upholstery shop. They can work wonders. They'll listen to your concerns, maybe take some measurements remove your seat, pull the cover off and carve the foam to custom fit you. If you don't know where to find a really good custom upholster shop stop by a car show or two and ask owners where they had their interior work done.

Woo Hoo, it’s Another 2nd Gen FORScan/Lighting Mod for those with halogen headlight equipped Edges (because we can) You’ve seen late model cars and trucks (including some Edges) make a turn signal stand out by turning off the Daytime Running Light (DRL) when the blinker is activated on that side. Check the front of your Edge to see what you have (the transmission has to be in D for DRLs to come on). If you have halogen bulbs from the factory chances are 'they' are your DRLs and don't turn off when the flasher comes on. I’d already done a couple of mods, swapping out my turn signal bulbs for LED switchbacks, changing my high beam bulb to an LED designed for DRL and fog light use and moving my DRL to the high beam bulb. I noticed other drivers waiting to see if I was going to make a turn, even though my signal was on. I concluded the flashing amber might be getting lost inside all the bright white. The solution is a very simple FORScan change. Here’s how to do all of it (or just pick the part you like). Parts Needed 1-pair Switchback turn signal bulbs. Here’s an affordably priced set I used as a proof of concept but ended up being good enough to keep: https://amzn.to/34GdS8t Note there’s a huge variation in pricing for switchbacks from vendor to vendor. 1-pair LED bulbs to replace Halogen high beam: https://amzn.to/36IMvw7 or similar Note, you don’t lose your high beam functionality (DRLs are off when your headlights turn on) but these bulbs won’t be as bright as the OEM halogen. I live in an area with brightly lighted streets and highways so haven’t used high beams in years. FORScan to make some changes to your Edge’s modules. If you’re not familiar with the program it’s downloadable from forscan.org. You can register for a free renewable license good for 2 months at a time. Be sure to read the tutorial before making any changes to your Ford vehicle and BACK UP your oem settings before making changes so you can roll back if something doesn’t work as expected. Did I mention BACK UP your settings! Using FORScan requires an OBDII reader that plugs into the port under your dash. An inexpensive reader that’s fully compatible with the program can be found here: https://amzn.to/32ttqek You can cheap out and get one of the $15 readers but it won't see all of your car's modules. You’ll need PC to run FORScan but it needn’t be fancy. Even one of the little Atom processor netbooks will work fine as long as it has a USB port and is running literally any version of Windows from Win2000 to XP, Win7 and 8-10. How To Install the switchbacks in place of your OEM turn signal bulbs. They’re pretty much plug and play except you connect one extra wire to any switched source in the under hood fuse box. That wire powers the white LEDs of the switchback that are on when turn signals aren’t flashing. Install the LED replacement for your high beam. This one is truly plug and play. In FORScan you’ll make the following changes: Set DRL To Specific Front Lights (BdyCM) 726-45-01 xxxx XXxx xxxx Set value at XX to 7F . This enables the second change BdyCM (as built) 726-50-01 XXxx xxxx xxxx Change XX to 20 to enable DRL high beams (there are other codes to set other lights as your DRLs, check the FORScan spreadsheet) To turn off DRL on the side a turn signal is flashing change: BdyCM (as built) 726-26-02 xxxX xxxx xxxx Change X to 1=enable 0=disable Have fun!

Roll your new car up on some ramps, pull the drain/fill plug from the passenger side, use a suction device to remove the old oil (you'll get maximum half quart but likely not that much) then refill. Drive a few days, drain/fill again. Do that a couple more times and you'll be good to go. Unless you know the maintenance history of the Edge you should drain/fill all fluids. Four times is suggested for coolant, three times for transmission, three or four for the rear differential. In each case, drain/fill/drive ...repeat... Fluids you'll need are in your owner's manual. BTW the first time you do this it'll take awhile. By the second time you'll have all the proper tools laid out ahead of time and will be getting a rhythm. By the third or fourth time you'll be draining radiator and transmission simultaneously and sucking lube out of the ptu and rear end while they're still dripping. I recently wrapped up this process with my own Edge and my son's Lincoln MKT. Wear old clothes!

SP, There are many posts in the MacT Ford Edge Facebook group (and I'm told lots of angry posts in the F150 groups) talking about the same issue. There is, apparently, a very specific way to fix the problem and your shop doesn't appear to have a clue. Choices: 1. Look up the procedure and take it to your shop demanding they follow it 2. Go to a different dealer. Maybe that should have been #1

As AKirby suggested the forum search might work for you but there are many other places you'll find TSBs and other information about your Edge. You didn't say what year your car is but here's a link to a site where I found TSBs for my '16 (which is why that year is going to come up): https://www.truedelta.com/Ford-Edge-tsbs-728,2016 You can also find info on recalls (if any) by visiting the NHTSA.gov site or just by going to Ford.com. Register your car to find all sorts of information.

So, the rest of the story? Tell us how they removed the stains and what they used. The tip could help a forum member out in the future when they do a search for "remove blood spots the size of a quarter from my headliner". ?

PM, I don't think you can tilt it downward (higher at the back, lower in front if I'm understanding you correctly) but you 'can' lower it and lower the steering wheel. While the column is unlocked, push the wheel forward as far as it'll go then power the seat forward. Adjust the seat and steering wheel as necessary. Give it a try!

Hey Nolan, It sounds like you're really enjoying your Edge. Of course there's always going to be 'something' we'd change and the lack of ability to downshift with steering wheel mounted paddles or a lever is mentioned often as one thing owners would change. About your issues: 1. When you're pulling in outside odors, switch to recirculate with the button on your dash or on your screen (climate). 2. You can either bring your own coolant up to the normal (Min when cold) level or roll by the dealership and let them do it. They might not have checked it off the list during the prep. 3. I can't imagine you're ever going to get more than 29.9 mpg, in fact how you're doing that now is a mystery based on other numbers posted in assorted Edge groups/forums. You 'should' give that turbo a workout once in awhile