chipdog4

Yeah, there's very little clearance for a tool to get the fill plug out. Here's what I had and used when I do mine.

I just drained and filled my transmission. I had a valve body replacement (and fluid replacement) just before 60,000 miles under warranty (due to the surging) and I have 82,750 currently. I got 4.5 quarts out and put that much back in. It was very dark fluid and smelled like gear oil. I think I'll be changing it every 20,000 miles from here on. Just wanted to add something as I was getting confused by the funnel talk. The cap that needs to be removed is just a breather hose/vent. There's actually a cable type clamp that would work great to remove the clamp (linked below). After finally seeing it, I'm going to get a length of fuel line and extend it up near the top of the engine so I won't have to remove the air box and zip tube next time for a transmission drain and fill. Should have measured it but maybe 3/4" hose by 2 feet and zip tie that off somewhere and put that little breather cap on top of that. Not sure why it rotates my pictures. Edit: my fluid level plug on the side was super tight. It takes a 10mm hex bit socket. I was using 3/8" drive and was flexing the ratchet. Stepped up to 1/2" drive and got it loose. I was able to check with the tire on and turned all the way to the right and laying on my back. Need about 10-12" of extension with the socket. https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRENCH-Cable-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-82115/303732784

It's been about 18 months and 17,000 miles and it's still going great. I never got any official receipt of what work they performed. I do have to wonder if with this new low viscosity transmission fluid, if the additives don't go bad after a certain time period and that could be contributing to the shudder too, like the 4R70W in the mid 90s. I do plan to change the fluid every 25 to 30,000 miles from now on.

I know these top 2 parts numbers are correct as I bought one of each. KT4Z-8200-BA is the ST grille without camera KT4Z-8200-KA is the ST LINE grille without camera - same honeycomb grille as ST but without the ST badge in the lower corner. These I'm not positive on. KT4Z-8200-DA is the ST grille with camera (there's an ebay ad with pictures - this part number is more than likely correct) I'm thinking KT4Z-8200-XA is the ST LINE grille with camera, but for some reason is coming up as over $1,000 (a polish website has pictures) The ST with camera is showing up discounted and quite the deal at $160. I gave about $300 for each without camera grille. https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-grille_assy_radiator_kt4z-8200-da.html There's a couple other part numbers I'm thinking are: one for Titanium Elite, one for 19-23 with and without camera (chrome bars), and one for the new base model grille. https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/search?search_str=KT4Z-8200

I removed the factory sub and installed the MB Quart 8". Not a huge difference in sound. I can feel the bass a little more and there's no distortion at any volume. Was it worth the $60 and the time to install it? Possibly I was in a rush and didn't take any pictures. I did shove a couple handfuls of polyfill in the enclosure before sealing up the sub. From this thread, " Coil #1 Purple/Blue is Positive, Yellow/Blue is Negative. Coil #2 Yellow/Purple is Positive, Green/Blue is Negative. " I had Yellow and Purple on one coil and Green and Black on the other coil (all solid colors, no stripes). Black and (IIRC) purple were negative, yellow and green were positve.

regarding c. I looked them up when I was considering a 15-18, I bought a 19 instead. One is the front camera version, one isn't. US dealers should be able to get one. There's some on the Ebay ~ over $1,000 GT4Z-8200-VA GT4Z-8200-XA (think this is front camera version) This member bought a used one from overseas and then resold here stateside.

Why do you need new piston rings? You have to completely take apart the engine to replace them. Standard would indicate factory bore size. The other one indicated as .50mm O/S is oversized for when you have a catastrophic event and the cylinders need to be bored oversized to remove scratches or gouges.

The 2015-2018 Sony subwoofers probably were, but everything I could find for the newer B&O subs in other Fords said they were 4 ohms. So I measured mine to make sure. And I went ahead and bought one of the MB Quart subs. Not sure when I'll get around to installing it.

Vinyl is probably going to be way cheaper Looks like there's several variations (probably because it comes with some of the buttons, like autopark) Almost impossible to verify without a picture. https://www.tascaparts.com/search?search_str=KT4Z-58044D90 $200-$400 KT4Z-58044D90-AA (silky black without autopark) KT4Z-58044D90-AB (twilight without autopark) KT4Z-58044D90-AD KT4Z-58044D90-AC KT4Z-58044D90-BA KT4Z-58044D90-CA (satin aluminum with autopark) KT4Z-58044D90-DA (satin aluminum without autopark)

I'll be upgrading my 2019 Bang & Olufsen sub in the near future. Wanted to check out what was in there currently. It's a dual voice coil. Measure 4 ohms. The mounting depth is very shallow 3 1/2" This box looks to be easier to modify for a slightly deeper sub than the 15-18 Sony enclosure with the molded nub behind the sub. Here's a photo of the 15-18 Sony enclosure Here's the 19-22 B&O enclosure. (picture rotated on me) The reinforcement webbing could be sanded down for a deeper sub (probably get a 1/4" and a then quite a few more subwoofer choices.) Dual voice coil, 4 ohms each The subs above will work, in the 4 ohm version. Kicker 48CWRT84 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT84/Kicker-48CWRT84.html?tp=111 Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3SD48/Rockford-Fosgate-P3SD4-8.html?tp=111 MB Quart DS1-204 https://www.amazon.com/MB-Quart-DS1-204-400-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B010X424Q0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2BGSS0ETWYEHI&keywords=DS1-204&qid=1658697712&sprefix=ds1-204%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1&th=1

Nice find Haz! Crazy to see how much they cut out on the one with the tow package. I had to make a small cut for the wiring harness and that was it. The hitch does contact the cover and presses it down about a 1/4" right below the receiver tube. And someone asked about taking the bumper off to mount this, you should be able to get it in there with the bumper on. From the photos above, there's no mounts above the muffler either, just one on each side.

That's interesting, I installed the Ford hitch on my 2019 and reinstalled the all the bumper cover shields underneath. They fit with the hitch in place, but the mounting tab for the trailer wiring harness sticks down and was interfering with the felt cover. I had to trim it to fit there, maybe a 2"x3" square. I'll try to remember to get some pictures tonight.

There are 8 bolts for the crash bar, you reuse 4 of them on the hitch, and there are an additional 6 larger bolts (M12 possibly?) that do the bulk of securing the hitch to the body.

You're welcome. It seems like a big job, but it's not bad. Mostly time consuming. The small bolts for the wheelwells and I think some under the bumper in the rear use a 5.5mm socket or 7/32". I would suggest wiring like Haz did. I plan on doing finishing the wiring (inside the rear hatch) like the factory with the tow module and and an additional harness. It costs quite a bit more. Some of that info is found in this thread.

There's some helpful photos in this thread. After removing all the bolts from the bumper cover (underneath and in the wheelwells), I started by pulling the cover out at the wheelwells and going up towards the taillights. Under the taillights, you have to pry all the hooks on the bumper off the body. (The taillights pull straight out the back once the bolt is removed.) I would get a second person to help you take off and put back on the bumper cover. I wound up swinging mine into the ground and leaving a small scratch in it. I cut out the bumper cover with a jigsaw. An oscillating multitool may be better... Sand the cut edge smooth. Remove the foot sensors first! I installed the split sensor made for the hitch. Taking my time with cutting out the notch, I spent about 10 hours start to finish. Unbolt the crash bar. Slide in the hitch Tighten the 5 bolts on each side Here's where I installed the harness