MKX03

I can't seem to find any details on how to remove the rack and pinion - I looked on here and online. Anyone have any input or tips? I need to change mine (bad leak) and already have the replacement rack but my MKX is parked close to a wall on the passenger side. Its been sitting with a dead battery, no power steering fluid and 2 flat tires for a month. I'm concerned the rack will need to come out from the passenger side only and I may not have enough room with it being so close to the wall. I really don't wan to deal with all that just to move it over 2 feet if I don't need to... I'm actually not even 100% sure its the rack, its hard to see exactly where its leaking from - but that is what the previous owner told me when I bought it.

So for me, BOTH my cooling fans are coming on when I turn on my AC. Which tells me something must be still wrong. And as I said, they won't turn off until I shut the car off. I have another (used) complete fan assembly / fan control module . And I just laid it on top of my engine and plugged my wires into that fan control module - I tested, and the same thing happened when I turned on the AC, both the fans on that assembly turned on and wouldn't turn off until I shut the key off. SO same thing. I didn't go as far as to run the engine to see if they will come on when the temp hits 210 degrees. As I am still convinced there is still a problem and I don't want to keep overheating the engine. I don't get what are the odds that I find a broken wire (from PCM to fan control module) and fix that, and would have bet a million bucks that would fix the problem, but now my fans are still not working correctly. Something else to mention, my AC doesn't seem to be cold anymore. Its somewhat cold on the passenger side, but warm on the drivers side. Not sure if this has any impact... It was very cold before, but its been 2 months now. It might just need a recharge. And I have the air filter box out (while working there) so the MAF sensor is disconnected which I believe has caused the car to stall a few times during testing, so I wonder if that could have have any impact? I just hope none of this caused my PCM to go bad

My MKX over heated a while back, and I thought it was my fan control module that was bad. I ended up wiring up my fans to a switch to manually turn them on while I wait for parts to come in. I ended up finding a broken wire - the little wire that goes from the PCM to the fan control module. I fixed the broken piece and tested it. I turned on A/C on full and the fans started - I was pretty sure that meant it was fixed but proceeded to test further just in case. I immediately turned off the A/C and the cooling fans did not stop. Is this normal? It was hot outside, but the engine was cold, and had only been running for less then 1 minute. I let it run for about 2 mins to see if the fans would shut off, but they didn't until I shut the car off. (then they went off) Next test was to run the car with A/C off and see if the fans would come on once hot. At 213 degrees the fans came on for a split second then shut off (I was watching the temp with a code reader). So I waited until 230 degrees and the needle was going to h'ot' but the fans never came back on. So then I turned the A/C back on but the fans still didn't come on. I wiggled all the wires to check for any lose wires around - hoping the fan would come on. Today I tested again by turning on the A/C with a cold engine and the fans came on so that rules out many possibilities, but also leaves many others. Is it possible resetting the PCM could fix the problem? Maybe the fan control module is bad as I did have it connected with wires and relays to my switch when manually turning on my fans for 2 months. I will continue testing later or tomorrow

My 2008 MKX (spare vehicle) was overheating. I have been working on getting this fixed for a while After the first over-heat, I noticed the cooling fans were not coming on - even with AC on full blast. So I test the fans direct to 12V and they both work. Both 40 amp fuses are good. I know the fan control modules are a common issue so I concluded the FCM was dead and ordered a complete unit (2 fans, radiator and FCM). I live on a small island and parts take a while to get here so in the meantime, I wired the cooling fans to some relay's and switches so I can still drive it while I wait.. I received the parts and installed them - the first test I did was turn the A/C to max and to my disappointment, the fans didn't turn on. (damn) So then I test the new fans direct to 12V and they both worked. And this is where I am now... At this point all I can think of is the signal wire from the FCM must not be getting power- so I check for continuity, At the PCM, i see that pin #48 is the wire I need to check (apparently the 3rd pin over from the right) according to this video - (fast forward to 16:20 mins) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXqpZoFxrbs I test that pin with the signal wire on the FCM plug harness - like he did but there doesn't seem to be continuity. So I further test - I open the wiring harness a little left to the PCM and find the white /BLU wire. And test that for continuity to the PCM #48 and it is good. Then I test at the FCM harness end - I find a white/BLU wire a few inches away from the plug and test that for continuity with the signal wire on the harness - and it is good. But when I test for continuity using the white wire a few inches from the PCM and the white wire near the FCM module harness, there is no continuity. So either it is not the same white/blue wire or there is a break in the wire. Final test - I tested the white/blu wire near the PCM (pin #48 according to the above video) for voltage and I get under 1 volt (even with A/C on full) - I understand it is variable. And when I test for voltage on the White/blu wire near the FCM harness, I get a different reading. 0 if the harness is not plugged into the FCM - but I get 12 or 13V when the harness is plugged into the FCM. So i am left a little puzzled...

The fans do not come on when the AC is turned on. In fact, that was the first thing I noticed the day it overheated - fans were not running, and AC was on full blast . Update: So I've now got the fans wired to a toggle switch (with 2 relays) so I can manually turn them on and off...until my new fan assembly gets here (about 3 weeks) but I am trying to find a wire that i can connect to that would trigger them to come on automatically at the right temp. So like maybe aN engine coolant temp sensor wire or something. Anyone have any ideas for this?

Thank you both for the details. And I guess you are right, I don't know 100% that the ECT reading from my OBD scanner is accurate, it just seems about right as I watch it climb from start to around 200 F. No fluctuating, smooth climbing in temp and about 10 mins to around 200 F seemed about right to me. Here are a few points I should have maybe mentioned previously. 1 - when my MKX overheated, and coolant was spewing everywhere, I immediately noticed my fans weren't blowing.(neither of them) and the AC was running when I overheated. The next day I tested both the fans direct to the battery and they both turned on. 2 - I did some research online and concluded it must be the fan control module. So I ordered a fan assembly which includes the FCM. But as I live on a small island (Aruba), ordering car parts typically takes about 2 - 3 weeks to get here. So in the meantime, I was trying to hook up my fans to a toggle switch (using a couple of relays) to control the fans manually so that I could still drive it until the new parts get here. If anyone wants to see, this is basically how I hooked it up http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/two-speed-manual-fan-relay-wiring-840x.jpg Here are a few interesting things I found while trying to do this... 1- with both fan wires disconnected from the fan control module, (i have the tow package so there are 2 sets of wires - one for each fan) I used my multimeter to test and noticed there is continuity between the red wire and the black wire. I tested both sets of fan wires and both seems to have continuity between red and black. What the... Is that possible? Am I missing something? Or doing something wrong? Are the red wire and black wire shorted together? Or are these magic fans designed to handle this? I am puzzled. To further test this, I added power from the battery to the red wire of the fan (still disconnected from the FCM) and with a test light found power in the black wire also. So then I reversed it and grounded the black wire and tested for ground on the red wire - sure enough there was ground now on the red wire. This really doesn't make sense to me, but I proceeded to conect the 2 automotive relay 's to the fans and with a toggle switch, I was able to create a circuit that turned my fans on and off. I ran it for 10 minutes and no wires got hot or no fuses blew so I guess all is good. But I am really puzzled about the fan wires having continuity.. Either way, I continued on and decided I would try to eleminate the toggle switch from my new temperary solution - and thought I could possibly use the little white wire (going into the FCM) as my trigger wire to turn on my newly created cooling fan circuit. Unfortunately I didnt' see any power in that wire. But as I mentioned, I tested it with a test light only until about 206 F.. then got scared it was too hot and manually turned on my fans to cool the engine. So now I am wondering if I was only 4 degrees, and literally a few seconds away from getting a positive signal from that white wire. Maybe I will test again until 220 F this time. If that little white wire gives me power at 210 F, that would be perfect, as I could use that as my trigger wire to turn my cooling fans on and off automatically Which would mean I wouldn't have to drive with my OBD scanner connected (to monitor my coolant temp) and know when to turn my fans on and off manually. Any input or insight on the above would be greatly appreciated Thanks

My 08 MKX is overheating. I tested both fans direct to 12V and they both work. So I was pretty sure it was the Fan Control Module that was bad, but after a little more testing, I am not so sure anymore. Please feel free to chime in if you have the answer to any of the below questions. 1- To help further test, does anyone know at what temp the fans are suppose to come on? 2- And what triggers - or sends power to the Fan Control Module to turn on the fans? (is it the coolant temp sensor)? The main connector that plugs into the FCM has 3 wires (12v + Ground + a small white wire). I tested the small white wire for power (with a test light) and nothing, I tested it for power all the way up to 206 degrees F (then I shut the car off as I didn’t want it to overheat) 3- Does anyone know when and how that small white wire from the FCM should have power - if that’s what triggers the fans to turn on? 4- With my OBDII scanner, I can monitor the ect (engine coolant temp) and the temp seems accurate, would this confirm that my ect sensor is not the fault here?

Yes I tried this already. Unfortunately the fans do not work with A/C on either

Yes, I am pretty sure it is the temp control module. And parts are already on order . What I was looking for was help figuring out how to temporarily hook up the fans so I can keep driving this thing until the parts arrive in about 2 - 3 weeks. After digging a little more research, it seems there are no switches inside the cabin that can handle this type of circuit. From what I see, the fans each need a 30 amp fuse and a relay + one 30/40 amp toggle switch to turn it on and off. I was hoping there was an easier way to get the fans to work

My 08 Lincoln MKX overheated the other day, and I am pretty sure it is the cooling fan control module that is the problem. I tested both cooling fans by disconnecting them from the control module, and connecting them directly to the battery (12v) - and both fans worked. The real issue I live on a small island in the caribbean, and new parts will take a couple of weeks to get here, so in the meantime, I am trying to figure out how to hook up my fans to some sort of power so that I can still drive this thing, but without setting it on fire! Some things I've tried I tried connecting the positive fan wire to the positive wire on one of my high-beam lights (I removed the bulb) - thinking when I turned on the high beams, it could turn on my cooling fans, and that this would be a protected circuit, but that blew the 15A fuse immediately. There are 2 X 40 amp fuses under the hood for the cooling fans, (they don't look like normal fuses) - and I thought it would make sense to use that power, but surprisingly, there is constant power coming from both of those fuses. I found an empty slot in the fuse box under the hood which has power when the ignition is on only, so I thought great, but when I tried connecting my wires to it, the little wire I used to tap into the fuse hole got real hot and started smoking within seconds. So I pulled the plug on that idea real quick. Anyone have any ideas for a simple solution? I just need the fans to go on with key on or connected to a circuit that I could easily control form inside the car. I mostly use this car to go to the gym which is 5 minutes away. And I should receive my new fan assembly, including the control module within the next 2 or 3 weeks. For anyone interested, here is the online version of the manual - and on page # 244 shows all the fuses. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/08mkxog1e.pdf

But again, this all happens while the fan wires are completely unplugged from the control module.

So my 08 MKX overheated, and after some quick research, the first thing I suspected was the fans. I unplugged each fan one by one and connected them directly to the battery for 1 sec to see if they would turn - and both fans worked. So today I decided I would connect both fans to a fuse with power and a toggle switch so that I can manually control the fans so I can still drive it until I get the parts (I live on a small island in the caribbean - parts take a while) Here is the weird part... With the fans disconnected from the control module, I connected a wire to the +battery and tapped into the red wire for main fan - then with a test light checked for power on the red wire (there was) - but there also was power on the black wire. So the red wire and black wire must be touching or something. And if I ground the black wire to the battery and test with a test light, both red and black wires now seem to be grounds. So I then tried testing the other fan the same way and it also had the same problem. Can anyone explain what might be going on? And I tested the fans again by connecting directly to the battery and they work but I am afraid to leave them connected longer as I am not sure what is going on...