14AWD3.5

On my late 14’ Ltd 3.5, the PTU that did not have a drainplug and the internal water pump. At least the 15’ and up had the drainplug, but still suffered with the 3.5 water pump. That was all I found to be hard to deal with, otherwise it was a very good vehicle.

Hope you enjoy the ST. I looked at a 24’ Explorer Limited but went with the Buick crossover instead. Either way, the Edge was a good vehicle.

Traded the old girl off last week to get DW a new car. 10 years faithful service and 172K miles. No major issues, but some apprehension over the PTU and water pump issues in the 3.5. Fortunately I dodged all of that due to multiple fluid changes of the PTU and coolant. Someone will get a well cared for crossover with some possibly spendy future maintenance coming up. I did learn that there were way more Carfax maintenance entries than I would have expected. Surprised that so many repair shops and quick oil change places report their work. So if you are in the Charlotte NC area and see a burgundy 2014 Limited awd with a mismatched lf fender, that’s the one. See ya’!

Nice to hear that the water pump lasted. I have 164K miles on mine and it worries me. Ford wont just replace the pump, they say the timing chains and other associated components will be worn and need replaced as well. That jacks the costs up to $3400. Unsure what to do as all the shops just quote book time and pretty much parrot the same thing re the chain(s). I know on Hondas they recommend changing the water pump when you do the belt (100,000) but that's a belt, a lot cheaper than a chain system. What to do, sigh. Where's a deer in the road when you need one?

Kinda sounds like you did yourself a favor hitting the dealer. The parts cannon approach gets expensive, and now you don't have to deal with the internal water pump issue.

Following. I had a very low almost engine dieting idle condition only after fueling for about a month, then the P0420 code. I bought a code reader, saw the list of possible items (mainly oxygen sensor bank 1) and then watched a couple YT videos. Due to their suggestion I replaced the $25 purge valve part (on the firewall, took 5 minutes). Skill level 1.5 out of 10 which is about my maximum... ? That stopped the code and the low idle on fueling for about a month, now the low idle condition has returned...? so in February when the car goes in for the "minor" $3200 water pump and timing chain replacement I might have Ford look at it. Whats another $2-300?

I just started getting a 5-20 second lag between backing up and then shifting into drive while the rear camera stays on. Read about holding the radio power and ffd arrow buttons in for a few seconds. That helped but it still lags 3-5 seconds. This is just what I am getting, haven't checked wiring.

Rattlecan Auto Magic paint was really close n color. Then acan of 2x clear. Should have doubled the amount of clear as its very thin and buffed through in a couple spots. (Took it to a guy who does new-used car dealership repair work and he got it maybe 85% done, said it was too thin to do the top edge and “creases”). Good enough for 8 years and 140K.

Lucky youse’ guys have drainplugs… the 2014 and older dont. So it’s to a shop with a lift or a pit for me. I was visiting a relative near Denver and found a lube shop that actually knew where and what a PTU was. Guess the awd Edges are more common in Colorado. Anyway, they used my quart of Supertech 75-140 synthetic and only charged $45 labor, plus returning the unused portion of the fluid. So that makes 1 out of 3 Ford dealers that knew about it, 1 out of 2 Firestone’s and now this quick lube shop. Appx a 50% success rate. At least its done for another 30K.

I cant comment about the rdu temp issues other than to note that the sail effect/frontal drag is loading the entire drivetrain in excess of a similar weight low profile trailer, thus its harder overall on the edge. While I support towing what you can with what you have, the short wheelbase and large sail area are two things which would cause me to not want to tow that trailer much at all. Definitely change your PTU fluid, at least you have a drain plug! The rear diff on our edges is pretty small. I got mine changed at 80K just for preventative measures cause’ I’ve towed 5x8 and 6x12’ Uhaul trailers a fair bit while moving.

Hey, use what you got… Or, “dance with the one you brought”…

Thanks for the detailed R&R info, I will be trying my 2014 LF fender replacement in October. Funny that an OEM Ford fender was actually less expensive than aftermarket, and that was through my local Ford dealer's parts shop. I will reply as to the R&R and painting when I'm done. ok done. I replaced my left ft fender with a surprisingly inexpensive oem fender. Using a couple YT vids and the pdf type document above, I was able to remove the fender liner and fender then reuse the liner and replace the fender in about 3.5 hours. (I could do it again in half the time but oh well.). It lined up pretty well, not factory gaps but pretty close. Now the rattlecan auto paint quality was another story but if it always worked, paint shops would be out of business. Hopefully a good cut and buff will help.

Nah really? I've been using cars as trucks for decades. Props to people who can afford/justify a $50K pickup for the occasional nursery or lumberyard run. Whether it's 4 fat adults or 880 lbs of concrete block, the Edge doesn't know the difference.

Yay, even missing roads from a couple years ago now show up. Theres always highway construction however now I see some of the newer onramps showing up.

Yeah I know, it’s shocking for someone to actually work a vehicle. Mostly they are prissy grocery getters… As long as it cleans up well for outings, this blue-collar Edge seems to be ok.