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And no problem, of course. Is this a feature you’ve seen on other Sync 3 vehicles?

No, I’m not. For fan speed, I don’t have that temporary display, only for volume. On the climate screen I can see the “permanent” fan speed indicator change, but that is it.

Oh I see what you’re saying, I do have volume rotary on all screens, but I do not have a similar one for fan speed, and I didn’t know whether or not to expect that. I see the normal indication on the climate screen, but that’s it. Sorry I didn’t realize earlier. If this is a feature other vehicles have, it could potentially be specific to the different climate system in the vehicle?

@toast1850 I have only changed APIM and ACM settings, so I’ve just taken a picture from my asbuilt from ford. If you want to check with yours to make sure you have the original settings, you can enter your vin at https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt But here is mine as well:

Okay @Tim Mallon here is my apim and acm. I don’t think the acm should affect it, unless possibly if you upgraded your acm too? My ACM is non-Sony and only door speakers, so you I’d you have Sony, I probably wouldn’t change the ACM according to mine. Let me know if this works for you! Also, do you have push to start or keyed start? Mine is keyed.

The difference is mostly color scheme. The Lincoln theme is a more brown/Amber scheme instead of the ford white/blue theme. IMO, the Lincoln theme is easier on the eyes. The tradeoff is that it has a Lincoln splash screen when you turn off your car, which feels a little lame when you, in fact, do not drive a Lincoln. I can still sleep at night with that choice, so I kept it

Which Ford Edge do you have?

Sure, I’ll double check when I’m home, but I think I was able to use toast’s verbatim. Are you having a similar problem?

Sync 3 is it’s own head unit with an 8” touch screen, so you couldn’t use it in conjunction with the pioneer. I don’t know much about the sync 1 unit, but I would imagine it’s near the stereo behind the front bezel where your head unit will eventually go. Sync 3 requires some extra hardware to get running and some “programming” values into the car with a special cable, which is manageable, but requires some work. There are different levels of plug and play sync 3 upgrades available at different price points, but if yo want to use your head unit, Sync 3 isn’t an option.

I managed to find a Sync 3 unit used for $125 on OfferUp. After that, I had to buy new USB unit (required for CarPlay), which with the adapter and wiring harness that allow you to just plug it in costs around $100 ($50 for usb, $50 for wiring harness, $15 for adapter to make usb fit in center console). After that, it’s just a matter of programming the unit. A cable to connect to you car costs $20 on Amazon, and you’ll need a windows pc. You can either provide your VIN and pay for someone to write you the codes ($50-$100), or you can do it yourself, you’ll just need to do some research on forscan.org. To to buy a sync3 unit new, it will probably cost around $500-$600 itself. An all-inclusive kit costs between $1500-$2000 (a little ridiculous, you can save a lot of money by doing most of it yourself) It generally comes down to how much you’re willing to pay and how much you’re willing to learn and do. For me, I did everything, and it cost me about $250 total. Hopefully I can sell my old My Ford Touch unit and get most of it back too.

I actually have recently discovered something that will really improve the sound if you have replaced the speakers. If you are familiar with forscan (if not, easy to learn and do), there is a single code change for the amplifier (called the acme for now on) to disable the equalizer and REALLY improve the stock sound. In the “as built” code for forscan in your vehicle, you’ll want to change the value for this line: 727-01-02 x*xx-zz where * represents the number to change, change it to a 0. It will get rid of the heavy and muddy processing and output a cleaner sound. That coupled with my previous instructions has made my 2014 Ford Edge SEL (non-Sony)have a HEAVENLY sound, where initially it was honestly VERY disappointing. Hope this helps! If you haven’t used forscan, it’s easy to use and there are lots of instructions to use it, but you need a special OBD2 cable and a computer to connect to your vehicle.

Wow your codes worked like a charm, thank you for that! I also like the use of the Lincoln theme, I may keep that. I think my issue may have been with the steering wheel control, I hadn’t been using the one with CGEA1.2, but had been using CGEA1.3. That fixed a lot of issues! Sorry I’m not as much help as you’ve been for me!

Interesting..I can point a link that has a lot of information for the explorer/sync 3, which is similar to us, but my climate so far has not been working almost at all. I can use the physical climate buttons (same interface I think, 2014 SEL), but the climate screen doesn’t display temperature or allow changing its controls. I suspect it may be an issue with having not changed my media hub yet, but otherwise I’m not sure. the link: https://www.icloud.com/numbers/0AtiYU-yJ4Nrfyfuzp-Mi0l8A#FORScan_2011-2018_Explorers

From looking at mine, I don’t have the scan feature either, it may have been removed. Incidentally, do all of your other features work correctly? (ie. heated seats, climate, etc)

Hi, does it not scan when you press the seek button? Also, can you post your APIM forscan codes?

You can replace the My Ford Touch with a Sync 3 from 2016+ newer models, which includes android auto and apple carplay, though this does very little audio processing, and I believe actually outputs the digital to the stereo which is a separate unit. It’s a bit of a project, but with a bit of research it can be done. I’m currently in the middle of such a project on my 2014 SEL. The crumminess you hear has less to do with the equalizer, and honestly more to do with the mechanical structure your speakers are housed in. The speakers are set in a large plastic panel, which is muddying the sound, and there are a number of vibration points in the door to eliminate. Your best bet will be to use Dynamat to reduce vibrations on the inner part of the outer metal, and maybe some also on the plastic panel that the speaker is housed in, though I don’t know how much effect it has on plastic. Also, I highly recommend getting 6x8 stinger road kill foam, which will help reduce unwanted pressure and waves inside the door panel by directing the air the speaker moves only out of the door panel. Additionally, if you take apart the door, you will notice that different modules like the window switches and mirror adjuster are plugged into larger plastic modules and have wiggle room. Just Unplug them, and wedge some rubber or thick tape in as you plug them back in. Anything else that wiggles or could rattle, see what you can do with a little foam or tape to secure it. That will go miles as far as the sound goes, and isn’t terribly expensive. Speakers were the right start, but if you don’t fix the enclosures, the sound quality isn’t going to get much better.

Hi all, I have a 2014 Ford Edge with roof strips, and I’m looking to get roof rails. It’s easy enough to buy them online, but after shipping it costs about $240. I’m wondering if anyone here has roof rails they don’t want anymore who would be willing to trade?