Perblue

Adding rust proofing is very unlikely to void a warranty unless it's rock guard that is sloppily applied(don't do rock guard, this is what most dealers apply). If an oil undercoating some how affected something enough to cause a problem then splashing through a puddle would too. Comparing oil coating to a tune is not comparable at all.

Works on boats, debate is open for cars. They were all made there. It likely won't unless the previous owner had it done at the dealer or a shop as it's not a factory option. If it's under coating looks textured and plastic like. Any oil coating should be done annually so won't matter anyway.

In Ontario I would strongly recommend doing an oil rust protection yearly.

Evidence? I have only ever heard theories. I'm on my 3rd battery and my stop start very rarely engages, no where near the total start and stops that my 96 Camaro battery does that lasts 5 to 7 years(along with every other vehicle I've owned). If anything the amount of electronics could put a larger drain on the battery causing it to fail faster, I'm more so betting ford batteries are crap but only time will tell that. I replace far more starters in newer vehicles without start stop than with by a long shot. Spark plugs I have done in either types of vehicles have shown very similar wear. This is all from my experience from my own vehicles and customers, not from hear say or people blaming a defective part on something other than the defective part. Google searches yield the same results for me outside of forums, which like consumer reviews for products, you are far more likely to see negative posts than ones from people who have no issue at all. Yes it may be an annoyance at times but I have yet to see or experience anything other than that.

When I logged temps for a while with the stock IC and then logged temps with my UP IC i had temps as much as 70F cooler.

Sounds like improperly installed or something was missed. Take it back to who fixed it and get them to sort it out before you mess with it and they accuse you of messing it up.

Part# 28759-2 Spacers are just for looks mainly. It's not for clearance issues or anything, I'm running 295's with no problems with no spacers.

It's stories I've heard with turbo cars, but thinking about it I'm wondering if that was happening to guys with rear mounted turbos in 4th gen fbodies which would make sense. However a blocked cat can burn out your turbo due to the excessive heat.

This isn't a fix, at most it's a band aid to try and clear a code, your cat will still be bad and overtime will likely develop lack of power especially at highway speeds, decreased gas mileage, etc, unless it's collapsed instead of plugged then you'll probably blow it out the tail pipe, and wonder why because you have no codes. However if you have the 2.0l and it's collapsed the is a chance of debris from the cat ending up in the turbo and taking out the turbo. So basically drive it with the code and save up for a new cat.

Before you go tearing it all apart, granted I have no idea what codes you may have or not, but make sure your brake lights work, this really sounds like a faulty or no power to the brake switch by the brake pedal.

It really is sad but understandable. Just going by pics and comparing it to what else is available on the market, I'm positive there is nothing that matches the passion and quality that is put into this. The amount of, well everything, put into this is truly amazing and very much appreciated.

I had a high consumption and then a turbo dumped almost all the oil out the exhaust during a 10 hour drive.

Is the paint damaged? Paintless dent removal can be fairly cheap and the results are typically really good.

model and year? please add to signature

Year and engine will be helpful to those willing to help

have them try rebalancing the tires.

Ok sorry, I knew he did it with the sport but didn't think he had much or any experience with what the newer 8 speed, ptu and rdu could take.

Yup read those threads. I could be wrong, but I think someone else took over making them since then, but I'll ask him and the one listed. It'll probably be over kill since I'm limited by 93 octane (other than meth or octane boost, which I'll likely do) but prefer to do it with it all apart, than put it together and wish otherwise. I am wondering how well the rest will hold up, could be weaker or stronger than the sport stuff but only one way to find out. ?

I agree, if things go right I'll have ot done this summer if not it'll be next. I need to find who makes the down pipes and get them ordered.

Bought Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 4 295/35R21 and really like them. Way better than the stock continentals. Had no problems with the tire shop mounting them. Also slowly getting ready for 3l swap.

Check if the 120 volt plug works in the back if you have it. USB's and inverter power has always been the first to go for me when my battery starts to get weak. Next is the passenger door handles not touch unlocking.

Maybe that's the case, most recent one I seen was a 2007 volvo and it had the connectors for the fog lights with no foglights, even had holes for the connectors to clip into when unused so they didn't just swing around. Found it in some gmc doors too for power locks or windows can't remember which, but typically those aren't dealer options. I do agree though look up the harnesses or just get in there and look. It's possible to have them or possibly need to buy a small harness that connects to a breakout connector in the front as sometimes they make the harness modular.

Hate to break it to you but this does happen and isn't that uncommon as it is easier to have a single standard harness for all packages and just worry about the actual options that go on the vehicle and not mess with which harness it gets. It doesn't happen on all and may not be the case with the edge but has been found on vehicles I've worked on. Assembly line production allows for some things not to be cut out because of efficiency in assembly time, which reduces cost overall even if it means some increase in cost of materials.

If your car beeps as though a door is open and it physically is closed when you remote lock the doors, it means it "thinks" it is open, therefore the door being physically shut means nothing to the car. Because of the sensor/switch/button on the inside of the door jam, looks like a black rubber button inside the door jam, is glitching on which ever door is causing this or not being pushed in enough due to the door settling over the years. When it detects/thinks a door has opened it turns on the interior and exterior lights as if you opened the door, this is what is draining your battery. The dash should say which door it thinks is ajar when in it at some point, that is your problem not the battery or your door not being physically shut.

This is your problem, either the switch in one of the doors is faulty or not being pushed enough to maintain constant contact and causing the vehicle to stay active. Either door needs adjusted, sensor needs replaced or you can sort of disable it ((158) FIXED!! 2011 Ford Edge Rear Door Sensor - YouTube)