Perblue

Adding rust proofing is very unlikely to void a warranty unless it's rock guard that is sloppily applied(don't do rock guard, this is what most dealers apply). If an oil undercoating some how affected something enough to cause a problem then splashing through a puddle would too. Comparing oil coating to a tune is not comparable at all.

Works on boats, debate is open for cars. They were all made there. It likely won't unless the previous owner had it done at the dealer or a shop as it's not a factory option. If it's under coating looks textured and plastic like. Any oil coating should be done annually so won't matter anyway.

In Ontario I would strongly recommend doing an oil rust protection yearly.

Evidence? I have only ever heard theories. I'm on my 3rd battery and my stop start very rarely engages, no where near the total start and stops that my 96 Camaro battery does that lasts 5 to 7 years(along with every other vehicle I've owned). If anything the amount of electronics could put a larger drain on the battery causing it to fail faster, I'm more so betting ford batteries are crap but only time will tell that. I replace far more starters in newer vehicles without start stop than with by a long shot. Spark plugs I have done in either types of vehicles have shown very similar wear. This is all from my experience from my own vehicles and customers, not from hear say or people blaming a defective part on something other than the defective part. Google searches yield the same results for me outside of forums, which like consumer reviews for products, you are far more likely to see negative posts than ones from people who have no issue at all. Yes it may be an annoyance at times but I have yet to see or experience anything other than that.

When I logged temps for a while with the stock IC and then logged temps with my UP IC i had temps as much as 70F cooler.

Sounds like improperly installed or something was missed. Take it back to who fixed it and get them to sort it out before you mess with it and they accuse you of messing it up.

Part# 28759-2 Spacers are just for looks mainly. It's not for clearance issues or anything, I'm running 295's with no problems with no spacers.

It's stories I've heard with turbo cars, but thinking about it I'm wondering if that was happening to guys with rear mounted turbos in 4th gen fbodies which would make sense. However a blocked cat can burn out your turbo due to the excessive heat.

This isn't a fix, at most it's a band aid to try and clear a code, your cat will still be bad and overtime will likely develop lack of power especially at highway speeds, decreased gas mileage, etc, unless it's collapsed instead of plugged then you'll probably blow it out the tail pipe, and wonder why because you have no codes. However if you have the 2.0l and it's collapsed the is a chance of debris from the cat ending up in the turbo and taking out the turbo. So basically drive it with the code and save up for a new cat.

Before you go tearing it all apart, granted I have no idea what codes you may have or not, but make sure your brake lights work, this really sounds like a faulty or no power to the brake switch by the brake pedal.

It really is sad but understandable. Just going by pics and comparing it to what else is available on the market, I'm positive there is nothing that matches the passion and quality that is put into this. The amount of, well everything, put into this is truly amazing and very much appreciated.

I had a high consumption and then a turbo dumped almost all the oil out the exhaust during a 10 hour drive.

Is the paint damaged? Paintless dent removal can be fairly cheap and the results are typically really good.

model and year? please add to signature

Year and engine will be helpful to those willing to help