dolsen

You didn't say anything wrong, I'm glad you shared this experience. I think there are a lot of people out there that would try to take advantage of a situation and say "oH tHiS tUnE bLeW mY mOtOr", but there are also a lot of very honest people out there. And I also know there are some companies that build a strong following and are known for the excellent products, but then when the time comes to fix something they did in fact screw up, they ride the whole "our products have been used for millions of years on trillions of vehicles and we always have zero problems. must be something you did". I cannot speak specifically about Livernois on this, but we also cannot rule it out. I'm tired of seeing the corporations beat the individual because they hold all of the legal and financial power.

They really need to update Sync to get rid of that terrible blue color on the night mode, the day mode isn't much better, but at least it's not blue all over

Ok... I didn't mean literal room. OBVIOUSLY you aren't filling the engine cavity full of oil to the very top. However having too much oil absolutely can cause high oil pressure and cause issues with blowing seals and cause issues with blow-by. It will obviously leak at the weakest seal in the engine, whichever seal that may be. My point is that I'm sure there is more than enough space to be able to adequately allow the oil to flow to other parts of the engine and be used without frothing issues (which can lead to oil starvation) because the oil doesn't simply sit in the pain waiting to touch the crankshaft lobes or connecting rods. Truthfully I do not know what the high limit is, but it is certainly more than a half quart (or in this case .3 quarts).

Certainly it isn't designed for that much oil, but I'm sure there is some room for additional oil without greatly spiking the oil pressure and blowing the motor. I would imagine that an extra .5 quarts won't hurt it unless you love to red line the engine often

this is from 2016, so of course isn't current if there are new "best practices", but a good starting point nonetheless

I'll second what @Nick Halstead said and add that there is a tolerance for the amount of color the hang on parts are allowed to be "off". Without seeing it in person it would be almost impossible to tell, pictures rarely ever capture the discrepancy correctly.

I hope you don't blow your motor also lol, but if you do its the perfect excuse to upgrade to the 3.0

Did you ever figure out anything with this? MKX clusters are still relatively cheap, but not nearly as cheap as you got yours. It'd be interesting to check it out if it works

Looking on some of the salvage yard sites it looks like a low mileage 3.0 can be had for around $3k, freight included. would the 8F57 be a worthwhile addition? Both can be had for just under $5k

Is this a stock HPFP? if it is, can it be reworked to flow more fuel than stock?

I'm not at all ok with that, I don't want my vehicle to look like a hack job. Do you still have any of the cluster masks available?

Ok, so I guess I'm going to ask a stupid question here: does the MKX cluster and mask not fit? Is it required to use the EU edge mask when making the gauge cluster swap in a 2015 edge using a 16-18 MKX cluster?

Trading a car in to upgrade instead of modding it take a lot of fun and appreciation out of the process

Welcome aboard!

That doesn't mean a whole lot, it could've been repainted in the factory if there were issues with the initial paint job. While areas larger than 4" in diamater are not supposed to be repaired in the paint shop (should just be completely repainted) that doesn't mean it doesn't happen, or it could have been repaired after it was fully built, and there has been plenty of times in which they repaint large areas or entire body panels. And there's plenty of dust/dirt in the factory (even in a paint shop) that could've done this. The best thing you could do is pull the build reports (dealer can pull them but I cannot remember for the life of me what they're called, maybe they're QLS reports? I used to pull them all the time when I worked at the factory). It'll tell you if the vehicle was repainted or repaired in the factory.

I'm not much of a fan of the blue look of 3.4, has anyone tried to mess around with forscan to change the colors? Or just switch to the Lincoln look?

It's funny you mention all that about skirts. Supposedly Ford truck colors come from the lingerie colors found on modeling runways... I was never able to verify that, but I don't think it is impossible either. After having worked at Ford, I don't think the colors were chosen much more than maybe 12-18 months in advance. but I was an engineer in a production plant, not on the front end where they chose/tested colors

I would gladly pay extra to get something like velocity blue, blue flame metallic, or grabber blue on my edge. I wish Ford was more into custom colors. I find their color palette to be rather bland for most vehicles.

This was a common issue in some of the first build 10R80 F-150's, which was found to be low transmission fluid. Not to say this is the issue, but I think checking the fluid level would be a good, non-invasive place to start that could potentially save a lot of time.

I do not know of a way to fix it using Ford's downloads, but I used cyanlabs to update from Sync 3.0 to 3.4 (I upgraded from MFT to sync 3 in my 2015 edge) and so far it has been working beautifully

Ugh, that's no good. I'll probably keep my options open. I have been having pretty good luck buying lightly used tires on eBay. Hell I can't even remember the last time I bought a new tire.

Any chance these are still available? I live in Louisville. Any idea of the mileage expectancy of these? OEM tire compounds aren't necessarily the same as the replacement tires you'd get from a tire retailer, even if they're the exact same time.

Well I used the cyanlabs update file and it worked beautifully. Took about 30 minutes for the full update from 3.0 to 3.4 and maps from 1.16 to 1.19.

That does not appear to be a viable option for vehicles that did not come with Sync 3 from the factory. As of now, cyanlabs appears to be my best bet

What does it take to perform the update on vehicles that were swapped from MFT to Sync 3? Right now I am looking at cyanlabs to download the latest useable version of Sync 3.4, but I'm not entirely sure that is the best path to take