Also, here is a thread from 2018, the forum member that started the thread was a long standing member at the time with a heavily modded edge. I have not read through the entire thread though, but could be a good place to start
I believe the main thing that needs to be changed for E85 (and there could certainly be other things) is the HPFP. In the 2.7's it is in the engine compartment driven by one of the camshafts. I have linked one below, but it is listed as being used for the 2.7 in the F-150. I do not know if this is compatible, just trying to show an example
https://morepowertuning.com/products/xdi-a007-27
popping comes from excess fuel in the exhaust, AKA running rich. I suppose changing timing could do that but I wouldn't rely on that as a way of forcing it because I am not sure it would work. I would think removing the cats is more likely to cause popping than removing mufflers, because the cats cannot burn off the combustion components if they are not installed.
Also, you could cut the exhaust at a point that is straight for 6"+ and then use clamps to put the mufflers back on as needed
I'd have to agree with @dabangsta in that drilled/slotted isn't really the way to go. It could easily be the source of the noise, OR if you went with aggressive brake pads, those are notorious for squeaking. Frankly, unless you're racing the vehicle, hard, at a track, I would avoid drilled and/or slotted rotors altogether. Too many issues and too much wear
I did this swap YEARS ago and haven't had that edge in over 2 years now. But IIRC I purchased the aliexpress part that was shown in a previous post. Not sure if that helps
Im glad to see all this worked out for you. I used to be big on making my cars go faster, now I am at least as committed to making them stop faster too.
I also like that you used that bolt to get the rotors off. It gets tiring hitting them with a sledge
It can absolutely be done, adding those features, however, it likely won't be "easy". I am not intimately familiar with how the edge is wired up, but you'll need the seats, probably some sort of driver seat module, the 8" screen and APIM, as well as all of the trim pieces required to house the 8" screen. I'm sure there's a some wire harness building involved too.
I think post tuning support is more like "hey, my car is acting funny since I used your tune, any chance you could take a look at datalogs?" I've tuned 3 or 4 cars using unleashed with no issue, and even had one of them retuned about a year after the initial tune for no charge, but this was a case of the car acting up with the tune, not a retune for adding new parts.
I could be wrong, but I believe the idea behind the FMIC isn't to add power, but to prevent the loss of power, which I believe you were alluding to.
This helps keep the intake air cooler, and in turn allows the engine to run more advanced timing than if you keep the stock intercooler and allow IAT's to go up when pushing hard or sitting still.