THE_BOLT

Some factory keypad codes are on the backside of the interior fuse box. To be able to see them could be a challenge for some

2016 sport 100k and still going....but not for much longer

I've went through the steps replacing the purge valve and had the canister replaced....the problem still exists after putting gas in the tank. I'm starting to believe the problem exists in the filler neck....possibly a valve in the caplets system that's not venting correctly

I had the purge valve and canister replaced...still having the problem after fill ups and I never top the tank off

I live in Michigan

Yes mine does it. I don't put any more gas in after the pump kicks off when filling the tank. I only run 93 octane, have a catch can, change the oil between 4-5000 mile intervals as I drive 52 miles one way to work mostly expressway, changed the spark plugs twice...I've got around 85000 miles on it currently. Dealer replaced the charcoal canister assembly under my extended warranty this past summer and a few months before that I replaced the purge valve...but the problem still exists. Lately since it's been cold out there has been a couple times when I was at a drive thru it stumbled and made a weird chirping sound almost like a fu**ed up bird...didn't even have a full tank of gas at the time. So I'm lost on what it could be...basically waiting for the engine or turbo to blow and leave me stranded on the side of the road

Did you ever find out what the issue was

Do you have the headlight knob turned to the automatic on position

I had the same issue on my 2016 Sport. It would only happen when stopping the first few times after filling up...it acted like it was going to stall at stops. I only run 93 octane in mine also. Tried replacing the purge valve but issue continued. So I took it to the dealer where a friend was a mechanic and he suspected it was purge valve until i explained that i already installed a new one...then he replaced the canister and problem is gone. Now I don't know if you top off to get to the even dollar amount at the pump...which I used to but don't anymore. Reason being is that will cause gas to somehow overflow into the canister which will make it cause issues

I think it softenes up a bit...but maybe you just get used to it lol

There should be a small tab to push in. Can you take a picture of the connector

Has that been happening since the engine was replaced?

The last picture shows the screw i was talking about. If that comes out then that back plastic piece on the steering wheel should come off. Then you should possibly see the release for the airbag. Also the only way to get the steering wheel off is the bolt behind the airbag

It almost looks like you're going to need to take the 2 torx screws out of the bottom of steering column...might be a tx20 or tx25. After that there are screw holes that at the back of steering wheel which appear to be holding the back cover on. Im sure once you get to that point you'll see more of what you're looking for

I am curious! I had the dealership replace all drivetrain fluids at 36000 miles when I had it in for warranty work. Now I'm almost at 76000 and going to change them at my buddys shop myself...except the trans fluid I will let him do that since I have no clue how to operate that machine. This time I'm planning on running redline oils in the PTU & RDU. The trans will stay motocraft. You have me curious about how my oil analysis will turn out.